PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => Your Project => Topic started by: Rob3865 on March 08, 2014, 04:24:16 PM
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I guess I'll start this here. I am acquiring parts. So far, Mustang II oil pan, frame mounts, used stock 5.0 rustang HO roller cam, early "Power By Ford" valve covers. No car yet. lol I am looking at 2. a VERY solid 76 Bobcat tat doesn't run. Auto, P/S and disc brakes. The other is a 76 Pinto, 2.3, 4 speed, daily driver. It has some rust, but seems to be minimal. Probably going with the Pinto since my plans include a T5. I think it will be much less work. I guess I will get pictures of parts when I get them together. Hay, it's a start.
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Cool, looking forward to the progress.
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Found a good set of rustang II exhaust manifolds and they are on the way. Looks like I'll have everything but the car before long. lol
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Found a good set of rustang II exhaust manifolds and they are on the way. Looks like I'll have everything but the car before long. lol
Are you doing a Johnny Cash song? LOL
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Yeah, it's lookin like one piece at a time alright. I just got back from the mailbox with my V8 frame mounts. It's trickling in. lol
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LOL :)
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Well, I had my decision narrowed to a 4 speed Pinto and an auto Bobcat. The Pinto is an everyday driver. The Bobcat will, run but needs fuel system work. No biggie. I have decided on the Bobcat. It's cheaper than the Pinto and the body is rock solid. It is a factory P/S, air and manual disc brake car but with an auto, so I will need standard transmission pedals for a 74 and up Bobcat/Pinto. If anybody has some, I am interested. I am really excited. I will have the bobcat here by April 15th. Will post pictures when I get it.
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A few pictures of my parts acquisitions.
Stock 5.0 carbureted intake. Blasted primed with VHT 2000* primer and painted dark Ford blue. Like the rest of the engine will be. Exhaust manifolds blasted and primed with VHT 2000* and painted with 2000* ceramic silver. And my big score I got today. An 8" Mustang II rear end with 3.40 gears. Very complete right down to E brake cables. Not pictured are my frame mounts, oil pan and pickup. I found some mounts and they are on the way. All this and no car yet. lol But it's comin.
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Gosh, what a hot thread. lol Anyway, I got a 1999 GT40P Explorer engine today. Going to freshen it up with new rings and bearings, oil pump timing set and put the Mustang 5.0 roller cam in it. The Mustang cam is a little bigger than the Explorer cam. Going to pick the engine up probably Wednesday or Thursday and going to get the Bobcat Saturday. Pictures forthcoming.
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Okay so where is the car ????? You have everything else....Rob... So are you going to put a EFI system in the car or are you going to back fit a carb and what ever distributor system you can find...
If your keeping the EFI check out the Aeromotive Phantom fuel system, it is an add on in tank fuel system" no welding or sumps needed", at about $500.00 or so it might be the cure all for EFI swaps fuel problems like I can't run the gas down past 1/4 tank etc. When I finally get my taxes done that's what I'm putting in my 2.3 Turbo Pinto...
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Naw, I been turnin wrenches since 1974. Seen FWD and EFI come into vogue and worked on way more than I ever wanted to. IMHO, I think the melding of the car and computer was the biggest clusterfu%k that ever happened to the automobile. Takes the average joe's ability away from diagnosing his own car in his own driveway and saving himself some money. When it works, it's a good thing, but when it's on the fritz, it's a pile os sh!t. Jes sayin. No, this old white boy is stickin with a carburetor. Probably gonna run one of them new Demon 625 3 barrel carburetors. Read good things about them. For ignition I am just gonna run the good old Ford Duraspark.
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Just got back with this. A 1999 Explorer GT40P 5.0. From here on out known as the Bobcat motor.
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Is that a difficult swap?
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No Dianne, not at all. 74 and up it is a direct bolt in using the right parts. I did a 72 about 30 years ago. Had to clearance the firewall. But the 74 and up cars you don't have to do that. Makes you wonder why Ford didn't offer the 302 in the Pinto/Bobcat. Well......I know why. That would have stolen the rustang's thunder.
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Is there any headers that fit or do you have to use the cast iron manifolds??..
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Hooker still makes headers, but they are not budget conscience. I am building this engine so mild, manifolds will not hold it back at all. I am not 100% sure on this, but I have read that the very manifolds I have on the engine in the above picture will fit in the Pinto/Bobcat chassis. If they do, they would certainly flow much better than the rustangII manifolds. But I have no direct experience so I cannot say for sure. I have had over 200 cars and most of them had headers. I want something permanent that will not rust and I don't have to crawl my old butt all over the ground fixin leaks. I am too old for that mess anymore.
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Yeah, Hooker is pricey alright but for a stocker I guess manifolds will work, the thought has been going through my head about converting if the 2.3 starts giving me trouble. I can relate about crawling under cars though, it's getting real old, LOL..
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I say stock, but technically, it is not. Ford never offered the Mustang 5.0 roller cam in the GT40P explorer engine. That is what I am going to do. Tear it down, freshen it up and put a used 5.0 Mustang GT stock roller cam in it. The Mustang cam is a little bigger than the Explorer cam. The Explorer GT40P engine has the best flowing heads Ford ever offered on the 302, besides the Boss 302, but they never offered that engine in the Mustang with the Mustang cam. Go figure. I will probably blueprint compression as high as I think pump gas around here can stand.....prob ably 9.5 or there abouts. Other than that, stock. Should be fun and reliable in a Bobcat with a T5 5 speed and 3.40 gears.
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Sounds like it should be a real nice package when it's done.
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Got the engine torn down last night. I have been a mechanic since 1974 and torn down a LOT of engines. It never ceases to amaze me when tearing down a newer year model engine like this 1999, how good a condition everything is in.
I don't know if that's from being fuel injected or the newer oil formulation or what. This engine had 174K miles on it, yet still has STRONG cross hatch in the cylinders, only a stain where the ridges would be. It will not even catch a fingernail. Almost NO witness marks on the camshaft lobes, no marks on the lifter rollers and no scores on the crankshaft. The piston skirts still have the knurls so strong on them that you do not have to use your fingernails to feel them. Absolutely amazing.
Would yall be interested in a basic valve job how to thread? I do as much of my own basic machine work as I can and if there's some interest, I will be glad to do it, since I am going to do the job anyway.
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Gosh, what a hot thread
652 (+) views......we are watching ;D
I always watch V8 swap topics.
Learn new stuff all the time, as there are a thousand (or more) ways to do it.
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Saw an Old's in a Pinto one time. It was engine fender well to fender well. I asked him how he got the engine to fit. He told me he just lowered the engine in till it wouldn't go any farther and tie it down with a chain on each side, and drove it. I looked under it and sure enough, no motor mounts. TOP THAT ONE REEVES 1. Harff/harff/harff.
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Ugly Yellow had two loose 3/8" bolts holding the engine in. Stock Pinto trans mount, one bolt.
Only thing holding the engine up was the rack !
Side to side , the exhaust manifolds against the frame rails !
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YOU WIN!
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We got back just a little bit ago. Here is the ever elusive Bobcat. I am really excited.
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One more. It's amazingly solid. Disc brakes, power steering, factory air, but it's missing. 2.8 V6 auto. The brakes even work!
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Looks good.. ;)
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Very nice, solid-looking car! Enjoy!
Dwayne :)
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Got the gas tank out. It's not rusted out, but it has some THICK crud on the bottom. Got detergent soakin in it in the front yard. See what it looks like after a day or so. I will empty it out and throw a short length of chain in it and shake it violently and that will help clean it out. If it looks good after that, I will have it coated on the inside. Got the carburetor apart and soaking. I am gonna try to get it running as is because I need a car. Since the brakes do work, that's a little less work to do.
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Its about time you got a car lol. I have started acquiring parts for my Pinto V8 swap I'm in the engine modification stage at the moment. The engine is a 351W that has been changed to a 408 Stroker it's almost a running engine lol so far the engine is twice the cost of a new Pinto!! The car is going to drive like a Squirrel every were but straight! Keep the pictures coming. Are you going to port and polish your heads they will follow just like GT40 heads!!
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Nope leaving them stock. Actually, the P heads flow superior to the regular GT40 heads. I have flow charts on both around here somewhere. The Ps are supposedly the best flowing heads Ford ever made for the 302.....cept the boss heads. Not really critical though as I am building it stock. Should be all it needs.
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Got the gas tank and radiator to the radiator shop today. They said they could save them both. Said they would get the tank cleaned out and coated for 100 bucks. The radiator I had not noticed until I dropped it off, but it is a THREE core radiator. That will be plenty enough to cool the 5.0 IF it will fit. I am hoping with the extra short Explorer serpentine water pump that it will. I'll figure out something, even if it's wrong.
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More Bobcat porn. Along with removing the gas tank, one of the other first things I always do to an old car is strip the interior and remove the old carpet. It holds moisture over the years and surely has at least some surface rust there. Sho nuff, I wasn't surprised. The passenger front is the worst and has one very tiny pin hole. Other than that, it is just surface rust. I am very happy. Here are the pictures.
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More pitchers.
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Looks like you got it in time before it rusted away.
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Another season of wet carpet & you would have had a mess of holes. Good call 8)
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I learned that trick from an old seasoned mechanic back when I took a job as his assistant when I was 19......about 1984. Ouch. Time flies. It has never failed me. Just good old common sense when you think about it. This is the most I have been excited about a project in years. It is really helping pull me out of this funk I have been in for several years.
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When I look at a vehicle one of the biggest culprits I look for right off the bat is signs of a leaking heater core, people never think to pull the carpet back and dry it out after replacing a heater core.
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My radiator and gas tank will be ready Friday. 45 for the radiator and 80 to clean and coat the tank. That saved some dough. I have made the decision to go ahead and pull the V6 instead of working on two engines. So I will have a complete V6 drive train available in the middle Georgia area SOON for cheap including the 6 3/4 rear axle. The engine is not frozen either and the feller I got it from was very confident when he said it ran.
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Got the radiator and gas tank back today. I will post pics later tonight or tomorrow. I am a whooped pup for today.
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I was bored tonight, so I swapped in the 8" rear end. I gotta say I am shocked. It is a COMPLETE BOLT IN SWAP. The only reason it's not on the ground with the rear wheels back on it is because the U joints were bad. Soon as I replace them it will be right back where it was but with the bigger rear axle.
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I stuck eight inches in something and can actually post a picture of it.
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I stuck eight inches in something and can actually post a picture of it.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Here's the assembled short block. Pistons only about .005" in the hole. Can you say quench? lol
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Here be mah kranmisshun, yo. The guy was super nice. He threw in the separator plate, clutch fork, and stock shifter for the same price.
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Good deal..
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Heads reworked and ready to bolt on.
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Pedals landed today.
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It all looks great. Wish I could do that with mine, but I have a 73 wagon with the clearence not there that you talked about on 74 and up. I'm thinking a V6 when the 2000 dies off. I have one in one of my Mustang IIs, from what I understand it's the same engine that's in the Bronco and some others.
Hey, I heard (from my engine also) that tapping noise is pretty common on these engines!
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Well Dianne, I will have my V6 engine and transmission for sale REAL cheap when I get them out. Since I have never seen the engine run they will be sold as cores.
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Bobcat wheels landed this evening.
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I like those wheels..
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Thanks. So do I. They are from like a 86 or so rustang.
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Set of those on Ugly Yellow, but centers are missing.
They will never see the road again.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0275_zps3f45d7ce.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0275_zps3f45d7ce.jpg.html)
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Will Ugly Yellow see the road again?.. ;D
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I have to say yes. Still buying parts for it, slowly.
May not have the engine & trans I'm dreaming about though.......
Bought a new rotisserie so I can spin it in circles next winter.
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Cool, with V8 I assume???..
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What else ? ;D
Motor I want is from Ford Racing, the all aluminum 351w bored & stroked to 427.
That is the easy part.......the Lenco may cause home troubles: http://www.lencoracing.com/ST1200MasterPage.html
Sorry for going way off topic !
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That would be cool, you could use a Jerico I think they're a bit smaller may fit a little easier???..
http://www.jericoperformance.com/5speedroad.htm (http://www.jericoperformance.com/5speedroad.htm)
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That would be cool, you could use a Jerico I think they're a bit smaller may fit a little easier???..
http://www.jericoperformance.com/5speedroad.htm (http://www.jericoperformance.com/5speedroad.htm)
How is it off topic? It's a Pinto aint it? lol
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That would be cool, you could use a Jerico I think they're a bit smaller may fit a little easier???..
http://www.jericoperformance.com/5speedroad.htm (http://www.jericoperformance.com/5speedroad.htm)
Not enough levers ;D
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Not enough levers ;D
How many speeds do you need,lol.. ;D ;D
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The greatest shifter ever invented was the Verti-gate. I almost want to run an old 4-speed just to put one in it.
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B2 car has the V-Gate by Long Shifters. Like that in line & haven't even driven it yet.
Lenco, with a shifter for each gear & no clutch required after launch, is so 70s Pro Stock cool 8)
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People always scoffed at the V-gate in my Demon saying it was a race only shifter not meant for the street. I put 14K miles on that car with that shifter mostly running around town. I loved it on the street.
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I've heard all my life that the V gates are hard to down shift......fun ny because I've had two and neither of them was hard. Long as you adjust the linkage right they work good.
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I've had two and neither of them was hard. Long as you adjust the linkage right they work good.
That kinda applies to any of them don't it. ;D
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Can you tell me if they require spacers to run on the front? I eyeballed the rear which I have off the ground and they will fit good there. I am planning on running a 225 50 15 all around.
Set of those on Ugly Yellow, but centers are missing.
They will never see the road again.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0275_zps3f45d7ce.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0275_zps3f45d7ce.jpg.html)
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If I remember right, there are thin spacers on my fronts.
I remember wondering why.....but not too much.
Due to knowing the front hubs/brakes will be replaced in the future.
If I had spare wheels, I'd send to you.......
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Thanks for the quick reply. My car is on the ground in the front and I cannot raise it yet. I have one of those Percy Wheel Rite tire and wheel fitment tools, but until I can get it in the air, I will not know for sure. I've read conflicting stories. Some seem to say they had no trouble with these type wheels, while other seemed to have rubbing on the front without spacers. These are close to 5" backspacing, so if they miraculously do not rub, they will have to be close. Thanks.
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I can tell you from years of racing pinto, that a back space of 4" will allow the wheel to just rub the edge of the upper control arm with a 13" wheel. 14" &15" will clear the control arm and should work ok. 13 X 7 American Libra mags is what I ran back then an they were a neutral offset with 4" back space. I really don't see how you could run 5" of back space without a BIG spacer. Hope I'm wrong for your sake.
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Wheel spacers used to be a bad thing, but now there are several companies that make good ones. As long as I get one that bolts to the hub and has wheel studs on it, I ain't skeered. Long as everything is spotlessly clean and it seats good, I'll run hell outta them if I have to.
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Mine are not the type with studs.
Just a thin 1/8" steel spacer.
More shop time today......wor king on my mid mounts.
If I get time I'll pull a front tire on Ugly & take pics/measurements.
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Thanks. I would really appreciate that. It's been rainin and soggy as a dish rag here and I have not been able to do anything. It's killin me.
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I now have an almost complete long block. Yee haw.
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Nice.......
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You'll want to change the water neck to go left/right to the rad.
You can also avoid a rad cap if you put the one meant to go into the hose (I have one in the shop). Use with a reservoir.
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A horizontal 90* thermostat housing? Never seen a beast like that for a Ford.
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I have an after market one. It's with my engine right now in the city.
If I remember right, it points the wrong way for my car.
Odd ball thing I had on the shelf (new).
Needed it to dyno the engine with a mini plenum.
You should be able to find one .... look for ones that will fit a 351C.
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Ran into a little hiccup with the valve train. I knew there was a possibility with a reground cam I would need longer pushrods or to convert to an adjustable valve train. Since I had the cam reground from a 116 lobe separation to a 110, that requires some meat to be ground off the lobes to get them positioned right. The base circle winds up being a good bit smaller, so the adjustable valve train was required. Longer pushrods weren't really necessary, BUT to get the roller tip where I wanted them on the valve tips, I really needed longer ones, so I got the pushrods too. Ultimately, it will be a much better setup, since I did go with a roller tip rocker arm as well as the adjustable rocker stud conversion from Crane. It's a nice kit for anyone wanting to change out the non adjustable pedestal mount rockers and make them adjustable. Only drawback is, the kit cannot stand big amounts of spring pressure or valve lift. But, with only a .506 lift at the valve cam and matching springs, It's a good match. I also found a couple of lifters not in the condition I would rather they be in, so I have a new set on the way. It sure is nice to be able to buy a set of 99 dollar genuine FORD hydraulic roller lifters. I should have the basic long block finished this week and the transmission bolted on too. I guess I need to be thinkin about pulling the V6 and C3.
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I did manage to get the bellhousing plate, flywheel and clutch on today, so this weekend wasn't a total loss.
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I did manage to get the bellhousing plate, flywheel and clutch on today, so this weekend wasn't a total loss.
With my 72(s) I can drop the engine in with the balancer on. Maybe with a back plate & flywheel..... definitely not with a clutch on.
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This pup is goin in transmission and all. Come hell or high water.
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I got the engine and trans out this afternoon. I believe the small block will be a better fit since I am using the T5. The C3 is a good bit larger and is actually what hung it up a little bit coming out. It was still not too bad. I am whooped for now. Will post pics later.
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A little more progress.
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Getting the engine bay cleaned up, patched up and painted.
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It's looking good..
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Not enough levers ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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It fits, but it needs some modification. Bellhousing bolts hit the transmission tunnel at the top, so I need to reshape that. Then the engine and transmission should slide back where the mounts will bolt up. Looks like I will have the radiator clearance I was hoping for. This is only a test fit, as it will have to come back out at least one more time to get the transmission tunnel reshaped. It's progress, however slow.
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Expect to put the engine in a good number of times.
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This is actually number two. lol
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I've lost track of how many times I've had an engine / trans in/out of my car !
I've read on other forums about people wondering how to do it without a few extra hands.
Cannot help but wonder if they have some special challenge..... . I have never needed any help, and we do this with smaller cars !
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It actually fits quite well. I am hoping for a minimum of work with the BFH.
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I knew this wasn't gonna be a drop in, but I was kinda hopin to avoid doing something drastic to the firewall and transmission tunnel. That ain't happenin. The stud on the driver's side that holds the HVAC box tat sticks out just above the transmission tunnel contacts the intake manifold and stops the engine from going back as far as it needs to. I am sure even with it gone, the firewall would do the same, so, I have to remove the HVAC box and reshape the firewall in that area. Obviously, I will also have to reshape the HVAC box as well. I was under the impression though that the 74 and up cars required no mods to the firewall or transmission tunnel. This has certainly proved that rumor incorrect. Nothing a little time and more work will not take care of.
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Did some quick lookin and here's all the proof you need. Top is my Bobcat firewall, bottom is Mustang II V8. Different as night and day. That's ok. I'll get r done. Just a little more time is all.
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I see this went over like a lead balloon.
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So, any progress??..
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hey rob was that the bobcat that was on craigslist like about a year ago?!?!
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The stud on the driver's side that holds the HVAC box tat sticks out just above the transmission tunnel contacts the intake manifold and stops the engine from going back as far as it needs to
Remove it & use a bolt from engine compartment side ?
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I wish the heater box stud was ALL that was keeping the engine from going in. The transmission tunnel is simply not large enough. I am going to have to remove the HVAC box, cut a section of the firewall out above the HVAC box lower studs and make a new section that is both larger in radius at the top of the transmission tunnel and further back into the tunnel. I will also have to reshape the lower front part of the HVAC box to accommodate the new firewall shape. It's really a pretty big change and I cannot understand how anyone could ever say that the 74 and up Pinto and Bobcat use the same firewall as the Mustang II, because they certainly do not. This is exactly the type work I was hoping to avoid by getting the later car. If I have a weak point with working on cars, it is body work and fabrication. I am crummy at it and it is very intimidating to me. I have not done anymore in it, because we have had other things happen that combined have really knocked the wind out of my sails. I may even have to consider selling it all. It all depends on the next 90 or so days and what happens. It will cost me nothing to make the cuts in the firewall and I plan to get that done, but it's difficult to do anything when the life is sucked out of you. I am really growing so tired of bad things happening to my wife and I. Really ready for good things, but they ain't happenin.
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hey rob was that the bobcat that was on craigslist like about a year ago?!?!
It may have been. I found it on CL earlier this year. It was in Greenville, SC.
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You have a the small bell / flywheel (157 tooth) etc ?
My white 72 has very little firewall changes.
Sorry about the other stuff.
If you were near by I'd help out !
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It's a T5 bellhousing, but the bellhousing flange is VERY minimal just the same as the rustang II bellhousing. I have a friend that has a rustang II bell and we compared them. Even without the bellhousing or transmission, the engine will not go back far enough to land in the mount brackets. It's close, but no cigar. The mouth of the transmission tunnel is simply not big enough. I'll get it done somehow. I appreciate the offer. I would take you up on it too, because I have no one around here who will help.
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Even with M ll mounts they have to be mounted farther ahead than stock ones. I thought.
Using a T-5 trans ?
Measure from mounts to shifter, see where it lines up to go through floor / shifter hole.
Looked back in your pictures , yup , M ll mounts.
I'll bet all will work out if you bolt the frame mounts to the rubber engine mounts.
Put engine & trans in & the engine where you want it.
That will be the "new" location for the frame mounts.
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Nope. Tried that already. I am tellin you, the trans tunnel is simply too small at the mouth. I couldn't believe it either, because all I have read is the exact opposite. I am going to have to do just as much to this one as I did my 72. Oh and the shifter location is going to be almost in the exact right place once I get it where the engine will go back far enough.
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I have a v8 bell and clutch setup on my 75 and I had to do minimal modification to the tunne... the only spot that I did anything to was at the very top around the 11 and 1 oclock positions... and I used a hammer and it took about 3 minutes to do what was needed.... only need to move the first 1 to 2 inches going into the tunnel and it only needs about a half inch of clearance..... ... at least in my case..
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I understand. And I've read where people did minimal or no work at all. But look at the pictures I posted comparing mine to the rustangII firewall. That's a pretty big difference across the top.
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Nope. Tried that already. I am tellin you, the trans tunnel is simply too small at the mouth. I couldn't believe it either, because all I have read is the exact opposite. I am going to have to do just as much to this one as I did my 72. Oh and the shifter location is going to be almost in the exact right place once I get it where the engine will go back far enough.
I think that may be at least part of the problem ? Trying to go too far back ?
From what I've read on here, it should be about 1.5" ahead of the original ?
Don't know what else I can suggest.......
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I've read the same thing. But the mount brackets I have are the rustang II, the mounts I have are the rustang II. I have the brackets bolted on the correct sides. I am just guesstimating on the shifter location, since I cannot get it back far enough. Now, if I swapped the brackets from side to side, that would move it all forward, BUT it would also offset the engine the wrong way and interfere the exhaust with the steering shaft. I have researched it high and low and from what I have seen, I have the brackets mounted on the correct sides. My only other option at this point is cutting the firewall. I would love to find out I have done something wrong and it will fit as is. But so far, no one has stepped up with pictures I asked for regarding the factory mount bracket placement, so I have to go on what I have done.
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I will add this......the oil pan (factory rustangII) seems to contact the rack unit before the mounts ever line up with the brackets. So, you may be onto something about me trying to install it too far back. But without a known reference about which side is correct for which bracket, I have nothing to go on. I guess I can simply swap sides with the brackets and try again......but I am almost certain they will not interchange. I could be wrong. At any rate, I believe that would shift the engine too far to the driver's side. The V6 brackets had the long bracket on the driver's side and I simply installed the V8 brackets the same way.
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The stock Pinto driveshaft should fit if the engine is in the right spot. If it's too long the engine is too far back. Too short, the engine needs to go farther rearward.
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Even with a T5 and an 8"? That will be a good gage if so. I hadn't thought of that.
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Even with a T5 and an 8"? That will be a good gage if so. I hadn't thought of that.
Yeah, either use a T5 or C4 yoke & you're good to go. The length of the shaft is fine regardless of rear axles. The shifter should end up a couple inches forward of the stocker & will require trimming but it's normal.
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Well that's good to know. Thanks. I had already run into the C3 yoke difference. I got a C4/T5 yoke on the shaft now with a conversion joint, so the drive shaft is ready. Does anyone know for SURE which side these motor mount brackets go on?
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Don't know which side the long one goes on , for sure.
I measured the ones I had & knew I'd never use them , so gave them away.
We "talked" some in this topic about the mounts as well: http://www.fordpinto.com/general-help/mll-frame-mounts/
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That was a good discussion. Tell you what I am gonna do. I think I was mistaken in that thread when I said the brackets will only bolt on one way. I think they will swap sides. I am gonna do that and try the fit again. It will be a little bit, because it's hot as hades here, and I don't fair well in the heat. bear with me and I'll report back.
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Try both ways.
Check drive line alignment both ways (ie: angles at u-joints) all the way to the diff yoke.
If being off set to one side or the other is not liked for any reason, make a new frame mount. Not hard to do. I could post pictures of some I have here if it will help ?
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I just find it impossible to believe there's no one here running the stock frame brackets that cannot at least tell me which side they go on. I know if I did, I would be bustin my hump to help somebody in my situation.
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Dianne has an M 2. Shoot her a msg and ask her ........
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I sold my V8 car 2 years ago or I would look.
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It's really a moot point now. The only iron we had in the fire for our situation pretty much went out yesterday. I will be selling things soon as we are now officially in foreclosure. Please pray for us. Thanks.
Rob
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Sorry to hear, that sucks the big one hope things work out for ya..
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Sorry to hear, that sucks the big one hope things work out for ya..
Same here!
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Well, we are still here and I still have the car, so I reckon that's good news for now. lol
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Glad to hear.. 8) 8)
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Many apologies. Sorry it has been so dingle dangied long since I have posted. We have had a LOT happen in the last two years. Wife had heart attack number 3 last fall. Then she had a stroke back on May 11th this year. She's a tough old gal though, because she's already back at work. lol
Still have the car and I have been very slowly acquiring parts as I can. I am almost ready to begin.
I have a question. Is anyone using late model Explorer accessory drive items? I will be. The Explorer 5.0 water pump is a little over 2" shorter than the 5.0 Rustang pump. Lots of room to be had there. I will also be utilizing the Explorer alternator bracket and harmonic balancer, since they will have belt placement on the correct plane. Will post pictures when I start to mock it all up.
In the meantime, I will be modifying the transmission tunnel/firewall area, as evidently, the Bobcats still use the smaller early Pinto transmission tunnel and firewall area. Hopefully I will be posting progress pictures soon.
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Welcome back, glad to hear the wife is doing good.. 8) 8)
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Welcome back! Here's hoping your wife will continue to do well. She does sound like a tough lady! Also, happy to hear you haven't lost your enthusiasm for the car.
Dwayne :)
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Welcome back! Here's hoping your wife will continue to do well. She does sound like a tough lady! Also, happy to hear you haven't lost your enthusiasm for the car.
Dwayne :)
Thanks. So far, she is making a miraculous recovery.
So here is what I got done this morning. Got the Exploder water pump, balancer and water pump pulley and bypass hose installed. My Exploder alternator bracket is at the sheen shop gettin blasted, along with an original 351C 4V intake manifold I have. At any rate, here is the Bobcat's power plant. As you can see, the Exploder accessory drive is going to be really short. I am hoping I will have enough room for the belt driven Exploder clutch fan. We'll see. I also included a peek at my converted adjustable roller rockers.
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Lookin' good! I do love progress!!!
Dwayne :)
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yes that pump is short , as for the fan its a screw on type , might be better since you do not have to bolt it on like the older ones , also if it is to big you might check to see it if the tread size is the same for a ranger with the 2.3 or 2.9 , they are smaller in diameter and a tad shorter too, just a few extra ideas , looking good and keep posting, great when your doing the R & D , ( so we can (R)ob and (D)upicate ) have a good one ,
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yes that pump is short , as for the fan its a screw on type , might be better since you do not have to bolt it on like the older ones , also if it is to big you might check to see it if the tread size is the same for a ranger with the 2.3 or 2.9 , they are smaller in diameter and a tad shorter too, just a few extra ideas , looking good and keep posting, great when your doing the R & D , ( so we can (R)ob and (D)upicate ) have a good one ,
The whole point of me sharin all this. Maybe I can contribute some small way to the millions lined up to do Bobcat/Pinto V8 swaps. lol.
I think my mind in the back recesses knows the fan will not fit, but that's not gonna stop me from trying. I am also NOT going to put the radiator on the front side of the support. Ain't happenin. I have always thought that looked really chinsey and "un"factory as hell. ......no offense to anyone whose done it, I simply ain't goin that route.
And thank you for the different fan clutch ideas. I work at an auto parts store, so that will be easy to run down.
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keep up the great work!! looking good
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Thanks yall. In the mornin I am going to replace the power rack with a manual one. Then I am going to start on the fuel system.
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Wasn't able to get to the rack and pinion yet. Too dang hot. I did get the alternator bracket back from the sheen shop all nice and blasted. So I primed and painted it. Here it is in all its glory. The bracket is very compact and close to the engine. I have it bolted to the engine and I will take pictures of that tomorrow once I have the belt for it. Baby steps, but it's progress.
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along with an original 351C 4V intake manifold I have
Not going to fit a 302w.
Something that may interest you..... ?
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=27107.0
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B2 ports (same sort of for 351 C)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/My%201972%20Pinto/5_zps1c2b3c32.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/My%201972%20Pinto/5_zps1c2b3c32.jpg.html)
302w ports (not different bolt pattern as well)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/1970%20engine/IMG_0721_zpsf0ul5piq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/1970%20engine/IMG_0721_zpsf0ul5piq.jpg.html)
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Not going to fit a 302w.
Something that may interest you..... ?
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=27107.0
Yeahno kiddin. That's for a different project down the road. lol
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More than familiar with the difference. That's why they were given different designations. Cleveland, Windsor and Modified or Midland. Like I said, the Cleveland stuff is for later on down the road. It may never get built, but I needed it cleaned and painted so it would not rust into oblivion. lol Thanks.
B2 ports (same sort of for 351 C)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/My%201972%20Pinto/5_zps1c2b3c32.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/My%201972%20Pinto/5_zps1c2b3c32.jpg.html)
302w ports (not different bolt pattern as well)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/1970%20engine/IMG_0721_zpsf0ul5piq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/1970%20engine/IMG_0721_zpsf0ul5piq.jpg.html)
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Here is today's progress. I am gonna wait a little bit on the rack and pinion it is so danged hot here.
I got the alternator and belt drive on today. I know it doesn't look like a lot of belt coverage on the water pump pulley, but it's pretty hard to force to turn by hand so I think it will be fine.
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Figured you would know....... I should read more better ! LOL !
Just trying to help.....
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Ididn't mean it to sound condescending at all. Just that I have worked on so many of the danged things through the years, I am sick of them. LOL I started turning wrenches when I was nine in 1974 and have done it ever since. Why, I have no clue. lol
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I got the manual rack and pinion swapped in today and as usual with my projects, two steps forward and one step back. Now I have to find a manual rag joint or just get a coupler joint from Borgesen or some such. Oh well. lol
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two steps forward and one step back.
Hmmmm, you're doing good, with me it's usually the opposite, LOL.. ;D ;D ;D
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I found this diagram on an early Bronco site. If you plan on running the 4G alternator from the Explorer, like I am, this is how you need to wire it. I think yall will like how much room this is going to have when I am done. I caint wait to start fitting the engine in the bay again.
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I got an Exploder 5.0 AC/PS bracket. It also has another idler pulley on it that is in the perfect position to clock the belt on around the water pump, probably end up with about 2/3 or so coverage.
I cut the AC and PS portions of the bracket off and dropped it off at the sheen shop to get blasted. Soon as I get it back, I will post pics with the bracket and 2nd idler along with the new longer belt. That will enable me to go ahead and run the clutch fan if it will fit. Either way, I'll have a LOT more belt on that water pump.
Baby steps, but it's forward momentum.
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Got the belt drive finished. Oh happy day. lol
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How close is the alt to the front bottom of the hood ?
Just curious .....
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How close is the alt to the front bottom of the hood ?
Just curious .....
Crapped if I know, but since it is lower than the carburetor mounting pad on the intake, I think I am safe. lol
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A tad more progress today. I am using the GM HEI but disguising it as Ford Duraspark. I decided to put the module and coil on a common plate and mount it on the idler pulley bracket at the front of the engine. Once wired up, should the HEI module fail, I can simply plug in a spare Duraspark box as the way it will be wired the Ford module will still work.
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Well......well .........well. .............f iddlesticks. I found out that the stock Duraspark distributor will not fit because of the idler pulley directly in front of where the vacuum advance canister would fit. So, I will have to use one without vacuum advance. No biggie, as it was probably a moot point anyway since the camshaft is fairly stout. Probably wouldn't have a lot of part throttle vacuum anyway. I will just get a performance magnetic pickup style distributor with no vacuum advance and a black cap and use the Duraspark connectors to wire it to my fake Duraspark box. lol
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Got the ignition all sorted out and wired up. All that's left is to hook an ignition hot wore to the coil positive and the tach signal to the coil negative when I install it in the car. Came out real nice.
Now I am working on the steering shaft. I removed it, cut the rag joint end off and an dressing it down to 3/4 double d so it will fit in the u joint. Pictures to come in a bit.
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Been really hot here so I am going slow. Manual steering conversion completed on RobKat.
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When turned stop to stop, is there any wobble at all ? Curious. Not sure if I'll try this on the next 72 , or leave the cable.
Seems to me I read in the NHRA regs a cable was not allowed ?
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None that I can see. I guess if I put a dial indicator on it I might pick some up, but I am not that picky. Not like it can go anywhere.