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Author Topic: distributor 1972 2.0  (Read 2014 times)

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Offline Crazy Lacy

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distributor 1972 2.0
« on: September 14, 2017, 10:45:41 PM »
I noticed the little braided looking wire inside that kinda lays around and has a ball of solder on it is not attached? What should I do. ? Should I upgrade to one of those electronic kits you see on ebay? ??
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Offline Wittsend

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Re: distributor 1972 2.0
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2017, 03:09:48 PM »
The purpose of that braided wire is to ensure that the points themselves have a path to ground.  A lot of people don't realize this, but the 12 volt POSITIVE is constant to the coil (less anything the resistor brings down). It is the points opening/closing to GROUND that completes the electric circuit (and ultimately sparks the spark plug). Just crimp a connector on that wire and screw it down to the larger breaker plate.

BTW, at least the Pertronix electronic system works by the same principle. It still completes the circuit to GROUND. It just does it through electronic components rather than physically with the moving points.  A lot of people get confused because the electronics of the Pertronix itself requires 12 volts POSITIVE, they incorrectly assume it is 12 volts positive that is pulsing the coil. That positive voltage IS needed to make the electronics work. BUT, the end results of its function is still to ground the coil, just like points would.

So, if that unattached braided wire is the problem the Pertronix will not necessarily cure it.

Offline Crazy Lacy

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Re: distributor 1972 2.0
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2017, 05:02:20 PM »
The car runs now, I just notice that wire was not connected to anything.

Thanks for the comment Wittsend.
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Offline Crazy Lacy

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Re: distributor 1972 2.0
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2017, 01:54:48 PM »
The car runs now, I just notice that wire was not connected to anything.

Thanks for the comment Wittsend.

Should i mount the wire on the points hold down screw? , I think that's the only screw in there?
Also I just put on a new Dist Cap from auto zone, Seems like a crappy fit, kinda sloppy. at first when I started it, the cap was wobbly, so I notice the new rotor had a piece of molding plastic keeping it from going all the way on, so it pushed the dist button up in there and it got stuck, I got it to drop back down, got it going, but the cap does seem like a crappy fit, not solid in place. Might take it back and get the one that's $4.50 more
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Offline Wittsend

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Re: distributor 1972 2.0
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2017, 09:33:40 PM »
There should be two screws (according to Google Images) that hold down the whole mounting plate. One end should screw to one of those. The other end should screw to the points base. I'd select the non-slotted side if the wire reaches. Tomorrow afternoon I'll check the spare 2.0 I have and snap a pic - well, if it is correct.

Offline Wittsend

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Re: distributor 1972 2.0
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2017, 03:53:45 PM »
Sorry for the delay and fuzzy pic, cheap phone = cheap camera. It seems the wire is spot welded to the points base and the (internal) piece that hold down clamp screw into. That  is the path to ground without going through the rotating base plate. If you have the ability to solder it at whatever end it is detached, do so.


 The whole goal is to get the points base directly connected to ground.  Otherwise it will be through the rotating base plate which can be intermittent. Since you asked, I was hoping the base had two screws, but it appears it is only one and then the fulcrum point anchors the other side. The (potential) problem with using the one screw is that the hole is slotted for gap adjustment and it might move around  not having a solid clamping.  Use a round hole connector under it if you proceed that route. But it seems it would take a longer wire and it should be insulated to avoid hitting the moving side of the points.  I'd like to tell you that any wire will do, but some of those wires I believe are very low resistance.  Try and follow the factory attachment if you can.