Solved the debate, It was sanctioning bodies of all things. If for NHRA, I kept finding that Bolted with sandwich plates was prefered, for SCCA, they wanted it bolted or welded. After looking more at my car, I found that some idiot took a grinder to some of the welds on 2 of the bar connections and made the cage no good in the eyes of NHRA, so I made the executive decision to pull the bolts and weld it to the body. To get it out would require either cutting the car or the roll bar.
On with more pictures.
First is to remove any and all paint using what ever method you want. I ended up using wire brushes on my grinder, drill and dremel depending on space requirements. You can see my notes that there was a tear where the sandwich plates sheared through the body and it looks like 2 of the spots have been pulled. The one on the right looks like it almost tore out. The underside will be next weeks adventure as I need to pull the exhaust and drive shaft to add more stuff. See Below.
Spot weld first, then remove the bolts and then follow through with the continuous welds around.
When welding, take care of the seam sealer and other flammable items like the thick rubber guard between the door and front tire. (oops)
When done, apply primer. Notice my patch panel over the hole that was left from the day before. I had scrap steel from an old cut up Pinto Hood and used a hole saw to cut the piece out. Then cut it in half and removed the paint for the perfect piece. Welded to the connector first since my main current went through there and then hammered the panel in place to fit the surrounding panels.
Working out how to connect the suspension, but will most likely place my structural steel on the angle provided by the car (30 degrees) and have it die into the perch on one side and run closer to the tunnel.
While the car has the exhaust out, I will pull the drive shaft and install the drive shaft loop. It will be installed between the subframe connectors and could possibly provide some additional support. Do not know if I will weld it in place, but the likely hood is there. While there, I will also pull the drive shaft seal from the transmission and get it replaced so I can keep it full and not burn out 4th any further than it already is.
More to be posted next week.