Forum > Your Project
Born 1974 - Died 1996 Resurrected 2021-2022?
Dtmix:
Maxxis Tires produces 13 inch WSW for both 165 and 185 (165 is on backorder with long wait times-I waited for 5 months before switching over to the 185 as I wanted to get the car on the road). Coker is where I got mine from at $169 a piece before Hagerty discount and it is possible you might find them at a lower price if you plow through the internet. https://www.cokertire.com/tires/maxxis-185-80r13.html
Frankly the 3/4 of an inch is hardly noticeable and had very little affect on the odometer, and the WSW was perfectly sized!
I did buy a refurbished Pinto rim to use as a Spare tire, as the one in the car was the space-saver that they used in the 1980 model year. I saved the space saver as it is original and never been down. I found the rim online by googling refurbished 13" rims for Ford Pintos. Surprisingly, there are a lot out there. The like-new refurbished ones I got was priced at retail between 60 to 65 bucks (price is back in November of 2020...nowaday s, they have gone up. I have no idea as for why...I found some OEM 13x5 Steel wheel rims are available at Stockwheels.co m this afternoon for $65 if all redone (in black) or less if purchased as is and you can redo it by sandblasting and repainting it. It seems pricey...but I was happy with mine.
Happy Motoring!
Dan
Dtmix:
I looked at Facebook marketplace, and there is a set of four tires, rims, and wheel covers for a 1979/80 Pinto priced $100 for the set. I believe it will fit the older models as well.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/334722930045666/ Scroll down to July 14th advertised by a Justin Rasp.
Hope that helps?
Happy Motoring!
Dan
PintoRoyL:
I thank the three you for the reply regarding 13" tires. I have 7 stock rims actually. Four mounted on the car, 1 as a spare, plus 2 with studded snow tires. Of course, every tire is 25+ years old, since the last time that the car moved under it's own power was June/July 1996.
Besides tires, I should start thinking about dropping the fuel tank and making sure that it gets cleaned up/out. I should right now, as I am thinking about it, spray some PB Blaster on the fuel tank strap bolts to soak tonight/tomorrow. Sometime over this weekend, I need to put the new rear hose on the brake line junction block, bleed the brake system, replace the rear most freeze plug, install the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate, and torque both the intake and exhaust manifolds. After that I can make plans to drop the engine back into the car, then when Harbor Freight gets a shipment of transmission jacks back in stock again, I will install the transmission. I got a rain check for their 450# transmission jack when they had their 4th of July weekend sale. The rain check is due to expire on August 3rd, but no stores within 35 miles have had one, so hopefully they will honor the rain check after the 3rd. Being above 60 yrs old, I don't want to have to bench press the transmission into place, then have it hanging by the input shaft until I can get bolts started. Last time I did it that way on any vehicle I own was nearly 4 yrs ago when I did the v6 to v8 swap on my GMC Caballero when I also swapped the factory 3spd stick for a 5spd stick.
One question I still have is, until I reinstall the turbo intake/exhaust manifolds, can I use the old points distributor as long I am running the old carbed intake/exhaust. I know that the lower part of the shaft is different between the two distributors, but the overall length is the same, and the drive gear is located in the same location as well. I don't yet have the harness for the efi/turbo, although I do have the ecu that came from the Merkur that I got the transmission from.
PintoRoyL:
This last Saturday, I torqued the intake/exhaust manifolds, replaced the rear most freeze plug, then bolted and torqued down the flywheel. I was originally going to bolt on the clutch disc and pressure plate, but after looking them over, I decided to buy new ones. I sprayed PB Blaster on the rear brake line junction block, and on the fuel tank strap nuts, to get them ready for removal.
On Sunday, instead of working on the Pinto, I searched the internet for electrical schematics, available tires for 13" rims, browsed that Facebook ad that @Dtmix posted a link to, ordered a new water pump, and a new clutch kit from RockAuto, ordered an oil pump primer tool from Jegs, and also spent money at Amazon.com on non-automotive items. Later in the evening, I went back to RockAuto and ordered a new steering pump for my daily driver Caballero.
PintoRoyL:
OK, it's about 5pm Pacific Daylight Savings time, Saturday the 7th. Attempted to install the new clutch kit that I had purchased (it arrived yesterday), turns out that I ordered the wrong one. I ordered for an '88 turbo coupe (that's where the engine came from), but I should have ordered for an XR4TI, because that is the T9 trans going in. Oops. So I ordered the correct one, and will keep the one for 2.3/T5 in case I later run across a 2.3/T5 trans. Next, I worked to make sure that the fuel tank is near empty. After not getting results with attempting to pressurize the tank with an air hose and a gas can at the other end of the fuel line, I pulled the hoses off the tank and began loosening the straps. Turns out that the tank is nearly empty already. Disconnected the vent line and now the tank is loose. I am a little wary of the rubber grommet where the filler tube enters the tank. Do those damage easily? Can I get a new one if I need to? Will I have to remove the left rear spring to get the tank out without damaging the grommet? I can wiggle the filler spout a little, but it is looking like it might be difficult to get back together by myself later. Should this be a two person operation? Are there any tips/tricks to removing/replacing the fuel tank? I think I will pause and take a breather here. I can still move forward and replace the rear flex hose, then bleed the brakes. The weekend won't be a total loss of time/effort. Maybe I can also mock up the location for the remote oil filter, and the oil cooler.
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