PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => Your Project => Topic started by: Reeves1 on April 15, 2012, 11:45:09 AM
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Link deleted due to P Bucket issues......
Thought I may as well start a topic on it. Before pictures in above link.
It will be a year long (at least) project.
I have been offered a new set of fenders from a fellow member (I said yes).
I have found a right rear quarter. Will be trying to find a left one.
Will also be looking for both doors.
I found out that without fenders, doors & rear quarters removed I can have it glass blasted (inside and out) for about $400.00. Then epoxy primed for another $150.00.
I'll have that done late this summer/early fall. This gives me all winter to work on it.
Plan is for sub frame connectors. Tubs etc. Narrowed diff & much more.
Plan is also to pick up a 302w roller block. Bore & stroke to 347.
I already have headers & front mounts. All external parts off of the 302w I pulled from my other car will be used.
I have the T-5 I took out of my white 72. If it is OK inside, I'll use it. If not, maybe an AOD 4 spd auto ?
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See the front air dam on my white car in my sig line ? Going to have another made for this build.
I'll also be using a Hot Pants Kit from Mike.
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Now this is going to be a fun and good project to watch!
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I would like to have a frt spoiler as yours for the 72
I picked up this weekend.It also is a V8.I posted in
your thread about interest in the spoiler.Let me
know if you would.
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racer99 - I will let you know.
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I feel lucky, we just don't have the rust that some other areas have, my 72 parts pinto has no where near the rust that has, and I'll give it to anyone that wants the WHOLE car not pieces...
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I feel lucky, we just don't have the rust that some other areas have, my 72 parts pinto has no where near the rust that has, and I'll give it to anyone that wants the WHOLE car not pieces...
Send pictures.....I may take it.
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Good news/bad news.
Good: found a good standard bore 302w roller block or a great price.
Bad: I had to change the front left tire yet again. I had to get into there anyway to pull a shock. Wanted to check a stock shock for stroke length, as my white car has Koni shocks. Also needed to count the coils on a stock shock.
While in there I pulled the plastic shield from behind the wheel.
All seams are badly rusted & already expanding. Lots.
Looks like I posted this "project: too soon. Car is hooped.
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I would like to have a frt spoiler as yours for the 72
I picked up this weekend.It also is a V8.I posted in
your thread about interest in the spoiler.Let me
know if you would.
I'm after one for my '73 as well. I'll need it to cover my V8 radiator when the time comes......
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Put your order in with map351 (Mike).
He will be making/selling them.
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Was wondering what was really rusted on this car.
Pulled the interior today.
It's not really that bad. I've seen much worse on this forum being restored.
On the drivers side the one place that will take a person (body shop) with skills is the leg (?) behind the door, at the bottom. Small area needs to be replaced. Same of right side, but not as bad.
Drivers floor has on small area to be replaced.
Right side floor, where it bends upwards, has an area about 10" x 10" that needs to be replaced.
I'd need doors and fenders.
In my honest opinion, it's too good to scrap. Seen way worse here being done.
I have most of what I need to build a 332 - 302w stroker. T5. All I'm missing is a pile of small stuff. All rubber seals (doors, windows etc).
I have most of the suspension parts.
Just added 11 pictures. Should have taken more after washing/power washing. This will give you an idea though....
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/library/Blue%2072?sort=3&page=1
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I crawled around under the car a couple weeks ago. Looks better than expected.
A few areas I had first thought was too far gone are not.
I can do this ! ;D
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I can do this ! ;D
Oh the times I've been brought to my knees after uttering those words LOL
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Oh the times I've been brought to my knees after uttering those words LOL
I think we've all been there at one time, LOL..
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Don't scare me ! LOL !
Question.....a re drum brake spindles the same as disk ones ?
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Question.....a re drum brake spindles the same as disk ones ?
Everything I've read says the spindle is the same as far as using the same bearings as a disc. The difference is how the backing plate attaches compared to the caliper bracket. I know the Wilwood kit has holes in it's caliper bracket for bolting it to the drum spindle.
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Looked at my two with disk brakes, and the drums ones.
That backing plate attachment area is different.
In time I'll find new spindles...no rush on that.
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It's going to get crowded in my shop....
Decided to completely strip this car , so I can really look it over in detail.
Next couple days will be spent doing this & trying to find the room to store all the parts !
Hate to take the head liner out, because it looks in perfect shape. But I know mice can get into them & want it 100% clean above it.
Will need to find a new windshield.... .. good luck to me on that ! LOL !
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It's going to get crowded in my shop....
Isn't that the way it's supposed to be, been that way for me as long as I can remember and still is, lol... ;D ;D ;D
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hi I checked out your car on photobucket and I say good luck on your project. I don't have any energy for that much work.that said if I was looking at the redheaded woman in the red leather outfit I'm afraid I still wont get anything done expect maybe the girl!!! ;D chris
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hi I checked out your car on photobucket and I say good luck on your project. I don't have any energy for that much work.that said if I was looking at the redheaded woman in the red leather outfit I'm afraid I still wont get anything done expect maybe the girl!!! ;D chris
Huh ?
I don't see what you are seeing.
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Huh ?
I don't see what you are seeing.
Ditto! I went back & looked again incase I missed something myself :o
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Ditto! I went back & looked again incase I missed something myself :o
Ditto here too.. :-\
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I went thru all the pictures too.
Maybe this is a trick to get us all looking at the pictures? ;D
Russ
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Could very well be, LOL.. ;D ;D
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I went thru all the pictures too.
Maybe this is a trick to get us all looking at the pictures? ;D
Russ
Worked......I went back 3 times ! LOL !
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Worked......I went back 3 times ! LOL !
I love redheads. I had no choice but to look ::)
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Had some "extra" time this morning.
Pulled the fenders etc except for the hood.
Wanted to see all areas better , to get a better idea on any bad areas.
Good news, the windshield cowl will not have to be removed !
Looks 97.2 % good under it.....one day I'll have a better look with my remote view camera.
Battery tray area is the worst. Hole I can easily put my fist through.
No big deal : I can fix that.
Lots of surface rust though. It will require a 100 % sand blast to clean it up.
Not sure yet if I'll use Por15 after , or a good epoxy primer.
Now to win the lottery so I can build yet another shop / storage barn ;D
I think even the fenders can be repaired.
Left one has a hole at the bottom and lots of surface rust areas.
Right is just surface rust issues.
Front bottom valance (?) is bent up. No big deal : gets replaced with an air dam like the white car.
The next one up (forget what it's called) is OK , except for some surface rust areas.
Splash shields are good.
Will need all foldover nuts & bolts.
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Now to win the lottery so I can build yet another shop / storage barn ;D
Now THAT'S a plan if ever I heard one!!!
Dwayne ;D
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Hey, I promise I will build Dwayne, Art, and Reeves1 a garage if I win the lottery.
Now, all I need is for someone to start buying lottery tickets for me.
Russ
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The trick is to pick the right numbers, wife says she "always" picks the "right" numbers but they always refuse to pull the "right" numbers.. ;D ;D
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In for a penny , in for a pound... started collecting stuff for it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/_20_zpsad356864.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/_20_zpsad356864.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/door_zps77204fe6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/door_zps77204fe6.jpg.html)
Picked up a couple other small items as well.
The tray thingy for under the dash / on trans hump & a "sport" (?) mirror for the right side.
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More parts slowly being collected.
Picked up a set of glass fenders.
NOS bumpers.
NOS grill with signal lenses.
4 like new windshields.
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Two intakes I bought: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/library/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B?sort=3&page=1
Left click the first picture. It will come up bigger. Then use the next button (right side center of picture ?) to see the rest big.
Went through parts I have & put into bins for safe keeping.
I have most of the (new) suspension parts now.
I have a good start on the engine parts I'll need.
I have a set of 1969 closed chamber heads that will be sent out soon for (heavy) port work & big valves.
Have not decided on a solid roller cam of HYD yet.....
SFI cert on my bell for the B2 is now out dated......(I hate engine builders !), so likely use it here ? Have to see if it will work with the T-5 I have.
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Over the last few days I've stripped almost everything off the car.
Moved Ugly Yellow out to the pole barn & tarp it up well. Due to my age (& money) , being a hatch back, I'll never get it going.
Blue is in the shop , next to the B2 car. Like trunk cars !
Trunk lid is good to go. Just a couple small surface rust areas to fix.
Hood will need to be split, blasted & epoxy primer. Put back together with some wet primer in the seams.
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Over the last few days I've stripped almost everything off the car.
Moved Ugly Yellow out to the pole barn & tarp it up well. Due to my age (& money) , being a hatch back, I'll never get it going.
Blue is in the shop , next to the B2 car. Like trunk cars !
Trunk lid is good to go. Just a couple small surface rust areas to fix.
Hood will need to be split, blasted & epoxy primer. Put back together with some wet primer in the seams.
Ugly yellow???? :(
Well I love that blue on. Trunk model too! Sweet!
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Ugly yellow???? :(
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=22522.0
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http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=22522.0
I think I replied there also ;) I love yellow on these!
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All shocks gone.
Loosened all ball joints, pulling coil springs today.
Pull the rack.
Rad support corner braces have been removed - will be making my own to replace (or maybe pulling the ones off of Ugly Yellow).
Front left of inner fender needs about 2" of rusted out metal replace.
Right side is good. Sand blast & new corner support.
Cut the battery tray area out. Have to pick some new metal up to weld in.
Box under windshield cowl is good. Couple small surface rust areas are fixable without removing the cowl.
Will likely cut the firewall / trans tunnel today.
One small area of the right floor pan, about where the arch of a persons right foot would rest, will be cut out today. Maybe 8" x 8".
Will measure the swing arms (drum brakes on the front) and compare to the ones on Ugly (disk brakes).
If the same : good. If not, no big deal: use the ones off of Ugly.
I have a real nice set of disk spindles ready to go.
Dash. Here is a problem. Windshield seal was badly cracked up & leaking for years. Rusty.
Along the inside bottom if a support, spot welded in. Rust behind & under it.
The dash from Ugly is in real good shape.
Wanted to just swap & swap the VIN back to stay with the car.
Made calls (lots) and found the place that can help with this.
I'll be calling to find out costs......no rush. Be a while before needed.
Special rivets - sort of hex headed.
I have a new rotisserie this car will be going on, in time. Will save me tons of time / work when the final sand blasting & sub frames are installed etc.
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You have been busy. The 72 front suspension arms should be the same for both disc and drum brakes. Your DMV may not be picky about the type of rivet for the VIN tag, suggest calling them. A friend had his dash replaced but the repair shop forgot to transfer the VIN tag. My friend made a plastic Dymo label VIN and it was accepted.
Edit: For the rivets try a image search on "ford vin tag rivets" using Google or Bing. Click on image like your rivet and then click on "visit page" or "view page". They can be expensive and out of country sourced. Based on the lack of stores selling them, I am wondering if there is a law discouraging it. Changed description to "rosette rivets" and found the link below.
http://parts.smartcarguide.com/rivet
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Had to replace the dash on my 79 a few years ago because the owner before me made a mess trying to install a few more gauges , drilled out the rivets and got some steel pop rivets and put them in a small vise and use a small file to put the rosette look, buffed them with a wire wheel and pop them in, them I painted the whole dash to look new and installed it , looked factory
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I have a new rotisserie this car will be going on, in time. Will save me tons of time / work when the final sand blasting & sub frames are installed etc.
I have rotisserie envy now :(
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I need one of them rotating devices too.. :(
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Got more started.
Strut arms on the blue one were very rusty under the frame rubbers. Took the ones off of Ugly. Good condition.
I'll be pulling the control arms & spindles off of Ugly as well. Main reason, is so I can restore them, powder coated & all new bushings etc & put away. They will be ready when needed. It also lets me roll the car out of the shop for grinding, sand blasting etc. with the originals in place.
Removed the coil springs. 9 1/2" 2x4s put in to hold the front end up.
Cut what was needed out of the fire wall & trans tunnel for (another) V8 swap !
I have most of what I'll need for a 331 roller / stroker for this car. Including a set of NOS Headman Headers. I'll have those ceramic coated, inside & out.
I also have a WC T-5 O'll have re-built with strong parts.
I also picked up a 9" diff housing for this project. It will get narrowed , big axles etc. Likely be in the 4:11 range of gears. Will be OK on the street with a 5th gear.
The right door is junk (because I have others in good shape).
Going to "practice" splitting this door for a look see. Going to see what will be required to pull the crash bars out, to help lighten the car.
I have two sets of fiberglass fenders. One set very light - will go on this car.
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How fast this car gets done depends on work.
Between the low & Global oil prices & the NDP getting in, the whole oil & gas sector has been slowing down.
Jobs are getting hard to find & it's predicted to get much worse.
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Going to be slow going. Only times I can work on it is during slow times, like xmas, spring break etc.
Fire wall / trans tunnel cut out. Will cut a new hole for the wire harness after it's all welded back together.
I'll raise the lower rad hole then as well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0596_zpsxegjzb4t.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0596_zpsxegjzb4t.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0594_zps9cgun6f9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0594_zps9cgun6f9.jpg.html)
Battery tray area had rot. Cut out. Still need to pick up new metal to replace all that was cut out of the car.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0595_zpsbxx1zqh5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0595_zpsbxx1zqh5.jpg.html)
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In the shot of interior you can see (surface) rust in the wheel well seam. All that will get sand blasted & welded, inside & out.
No more leak(s) and no need for seam sealer.
The floor seams that go from the rockers to trans tunnel have rust, but not through.
They will get cut out & replaced with a thicker metal (have to check on measurements for cage attachments specs for NHRA).
Going to build torque boxes, which will double for mounting locations for the cage.
Likely put it on the rotisserie this xmas , for all the blasting & epoxy primer etc.
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Had a few days at home so got some welding done.
Sand blasted the edges of the welding areas inside & out for clean welds.
Changing gas from co2/argon to straight argon before welding next. Mixed gas plugs my lungs up bad for days. Cannot breath 4 - 7 days !
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0597_zps4jals5dg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0597_zps4jals5dg.jpg.html)
I put tape on the approximate locations of sub frames & cage plate areas.
I want to remove the seam under the heel location. So the plate is (a bit thicker) .125 and will be 6" x about 13". Will weld to floor, sub frame & rocker. A 2" x 6" plate also gets welded to the rocker & floor plates.
Will not be building torque boxes. Not enough front sub frame below the floor pan to bother with them.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0600_zpsi3vmgbk5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0600_zpsi3vmgbk5.jpg.html)
Outside plates behind the seat will attach to the sub frames & rockers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0599_zpscbwobyho.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0599_zpscbwobyho.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0598_zps72artu2h.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0598_zps72artu2h.jpg.html)
Behind the seat the center 2 tubes will be welded to the sub frames, as well as the 2 going back to the trunk area.
I'll get a guy I know in Calgary to do the cage, to make sure to will pass tech.
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Going to be slow going. Only times I can work on it is during slow times, like xmas, spring break etc.
Thank god I found a self storage that I can work in or nothing would be getting done on my cars for another year or two. This Tuesday my new 18x40 garage goes up which means I can actually get organized & have room to work at home.
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You're showing some awesome love to that car Reeves!!!
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Actually more excited about this one than the B2 car.
Building this one from scratch is much more interesting, and fun.
B2 car is "tainted" ......due to the engine builds, and time lost on what should have been a 6 month upgrade. Lost 4 years on it. So far.
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Actually more excited about this one than the B2 car.
Building this one from scratch is much more interesting, and fun.
B2 car is "tainted" ......due to the engine builds, and time lost on what should have been a 6 month upgrade. Lost 4 years on it. So far.
Yeah, I honestly can understand that! When I do one from scratch it's always better than buying one, more rewarding and fun!
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Had a few days off & a few rain days off. Got some get ready for snow stuff at home done, as well as some work on the car.
Drivers side .125" plate is in. Still have to weld in the 6" x 2" plate on the rocker.
Although NHRA only requires a 6" x 6" plate for the cage, I wanted it to extend beyond that to replace the seam with rust & because I'm going to build torque boxes. Just because ;D
It is also welded to the OEM frame rails.
I have a small patch to do at the top left of this plate. Will be done with thinner metal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0643_zpsrje2clco.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0643_zpsrje2clco.jpg.html)
Also worked on the right side. Got the .125 plate in. Also three thinner metal sections to replace rusted areas. Some "gob" welds below the 3.5" 4" plate is to weld up a few small rust through spots.
Still have to weld in the 6" x 2" rocker plate.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0645_zps6waxxwjb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0645_zps6waxxwjb.jpg.html)
All will be welded from under the car as well......when it goes on the rotisserie. Not sure when now......decid ed to do a lot more work / repairs than originally planned :o
Again, the primer is only to help prevent rust from starting till it goes for the full blasting.
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Looks like your making great progress. I have the same plans for my floor pans, then more frame bracing. I can't get mine on a rotisserie, but I have a karmann ghia about to go up on it. Not mine, just a friends project.
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More time off = more done on the car.
Finished the front cage mount areas. Welded all inside seams on the trans tunnel. Repair / replace rust areas.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0651_zpsqw1en9kp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0651_zpsqw1en9kp.jpg.html)
Front left rad support / inner fender had some rust issues.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0652_zpsvmhjcibk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0652_zpsvmhjcibk.jpg.html)
Cut it out & replaced with new metal. 100 % welded seams.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0655_zpskfxw3dif.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0655_zpskfxw3dif.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0656_zpsoqsszjuo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0656_zpsoqsszjuo.jpg.html)
The corner supports were rusted through. Made new ones. Got the left side done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0658_zpsamuylevt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0658_zpsamuylevt.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0657_zpskl42psue.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0657_zpskl42psue.jpg.html)
Rad support seams welded inside & out.
All work areas were sand blasted first.
Spray with primer to help prevent rust as the project goes along, till it goes for final blasting.
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How big of a cage are you putting in? Are you chopping thru your dash for full cage or just lower side bars to the front mounting areas you installed? I'm looking at doing this project too.
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Aiming for an 8.5 cert cage & through the dash.
Want to keep the front bars as close to the front as I can.
Cage will be built by a guy in Calgary.
Same guy that will build my 9" diff.
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I'm not familiar with how they are graded, I just know I want to get a good one in mine too, for street use.
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For street & up to a 10 second 1/4 all you would need is a 6 point behind the seats - like my white car.
(I'm over building this blue one)
Floor plates have to be 6" x 6" and .125 thick. Rocker plates 6" x 2".
Google the newest NHRA rules. Easy down load. Keep as a pdf. I printed mine out.
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Aiming for an 8.5 cert cage & through the dash.
Want to keep the front bars as close to the front as I can.
Cage will be built by a guy in Calgary.
Same guy that will build my 9" diff.
The cage will be expensive. Are the tracks up there like the ones in the US? We have to have certain things at some seconds. I'm going to be building a 400 Stroker. Still learning, it's a LOT different than it was in the 70s for certain.
Do you have a design for the cage?
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Dianne - google: 8.5 cert roll cage
You will find lot of pictures / info.
NHRA rules are the same everywhere.
Some of the attachment points in mine will be to also strengthen the sub frames I'm installing. Need this, as the springs will be connected to them.
My subs will extend out the back end about 1/4" past the body metal. I'm having solid steel blocks made to insert into the sub frames & weld in. They will be drilled in the center & tapped for at least a 1/2" bolt.
Reason: someone down the road may up the game with more engine & need chute attachment points.
Easier to do now, than after paint.
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WOW, almost as much as the Pro 4. That's gonna be an awesome frame. I'm building a 10 second car, maybe 11. I'll start with that and build over time if health and life allow it :) I need to break the 9 second mark in my lifetime though, that's on my bucket list.
You go Reeves, I'll live the 8 seconds through you for now!
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Interesting article here..
http://www.dragzine.com/project-cars/project-biting-the-bullitt/understanding-and-building-an-nhra-8-50-and-10-point-roll-cages/ (http://www.dragzine.com/project-cars/project-biting-the-bullitt/understanding-and-building-an-nhra-8-50-and-10-point-roll-cages/)
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Although I'm (trying) to build this one to 8.5 - it will not be that fast.
Engine will be a 302w roller block. Bore / stroke to 331. (likely a Scat stroker kit)
Solid roller (aggressive) cam & roller top end.
Want to run pump gas, so 10:1 or 10.5:1 compression.
Heads are 1969 closed chamber. Going to have them heavily ported & big valves.
Port & port match the vintage C90X - 9424 B intake, along with some plenum work.
Intake gaskets for the propane application to close off heat to the intake.
I already have the Holley 750 DP carb & MSD ignition (have to pick up a 6AL box though)
I already have a like new 9" diff housing. It will be narrowed, maybe Mark Williams axles & likely 4:30 gears.
I have a T-5. Going to have it re-built to as strong as it can be.
Just guessing, likely be in the 400 to 450 HP range ?
Just guessing, likely in the low 11s or with the right conditions , 10s ?
Going to hold onto this car till "the end".
B2 car will likely be sold when done & tested. Getting "long in the tooth" for a car that is going to be that fast.
Lots to do yet to this blue one.
First "plan" was to do the minimum to get it on the road.
Decided to chase all rust I am able to fix / replace.
Windshield cowl will be removed, along with the box below that.
Hope to have enough done by next summer to have the diff & cage built by a guy in Calgary.
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Still going to be a real cool ride..
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You can boost it also. I plan on twin turbos, all in time of course, but as they say it's all in the air flow in those heads and intake. You have the intakes though :D
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Right rad support done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0661_zpszrxj1hgy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0661_zpszrxj1hgy.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0662_zps9e2m55rb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0662_zps9e2m55rb.jpg.html)
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Had some time this morning , before returning to the grind......
Before :
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/DSC06503_zps7fc6604f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/DSC06503_zps7fc6604f.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/DSC06504_zps6de83d70.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/DSC06504_zps6de83d70.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/DSC06505_zpsf7317770.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/DSC06505_zpsf7317770.jpg.html)
I had it soda blasted. It took the blue paint off of the word FORD. Was just a little bit cleaner. Not clean enough by a long shot.
Set up my small sand blaster to use Walnut - didn't do anything.
So, since I have two......I sand blasted it.
It's blown off with air - will need a power wash.
After:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/IMG_0664_zpsyvsynhwi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/IMG_0664_zpsyvsynhwi.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/IMG_0665_zpsufkxn6zj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/IMG_0665_zpsufkxn6zj.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/IMG_0666_zpsfbxpuhgt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/IMG_0666_zpsfbxpuhgt.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/IMG_0667_zpscvqshlct.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B/IMG_0667_zpscvqshlct.jpg.html)
Worked awesome ! Not afraid to do so again ! LOL !
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That is soooo ugly! I mean real ugly, I will take it off your hands and send it to me ahahaha
WOW, I need one!!!! Nice, very nice Reeves!!!
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Looks great..
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Looks great..
That is friggin awesome!!!!
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More time off.....starte d yesterday. Means drilling out what feels like a million spot welds. :o
I have the inner fender supports off. By days end (today) I'll have the windshield cowl off & the box under it.
You know the seam that goes down from the box, behind the front tires ? Connects to the front / top of the rocker.
Don't know it's name.....but I have to cut out the drivers side to about 1/2 way down. Right side all the way to the rocker. Already have the plan in my head on how to replace.
Pictures - later.
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Cowl & box removed in a couple hours.
Need to pick up thinner metal today. Stuff I have right now is .060 (or was it .055).
Need to pick more gas up.
From what I can see, it's not that bad. Perf in some seams & one spot in the heater snorkel (or whatever it's called). Weird spot for it to rust......unde r a thick gob of seam sealer.
Pictures later..
Wish more people used this site , over FB.
On FB a "post" quickly is gone. Info all mixed up, all questions / answers in one place.
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Wish more people used this site , over FB.
On FB a "post" quickly is gone. Info all mixed up, all questions / answers in one place.
I couldn't agree more. I refuse to be a part of that mess.
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Cowl off. Glad I am doing this : more rust than I thought. All fixable though.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0671_zpsenbbwyh7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0671_zpsenbbwyh7.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0672_zpszks5mkv8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0672_zpszks5mkv8.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0670_zpsyfza5zfu.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0670_zpsyfza5zfu.jpg.html)
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Weird hole in the heater snorkel. It was under a gob of seam sealer. May be perf under it - will know after sand blasting. I have it removed now as well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0669_zpsidjigmfc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0669_zpsidjigmfc.jpg.html)
Perf through the left vent hole.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0668_zpstzcqmhum.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0668_zpstzcqmhum.jpg.html)
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Box removed & the areas I'll be cutting and welding sand blasted.
The lip / seam across the front & going back on each side about a foot will be cut out & replaced.
The seams behind the front wheels, going down to the rockers will be cut out & replaced.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0680_zpsi2otafge.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0680_zpsi2otafge.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0681_zpspd72xp3s.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0681_zpspd72xp3s.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0682_zpsvlsf0qgz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0682_zpsvlsf0qgz.jpg.html)
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Looks good, wish I could deal with rust. ::)
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I love it! I'm very interested in your projects here. I like it when people stop talking about what they want to do, and post pics of what they've done. Just shut up and grind!
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Mig gas down to 500 lbs. Get new spare bottle so no stopping mid way on stuff. Check
Shop fridge full of beer. Check.
Pick up a small sheet of 18 ga (.046 ish) metal for replacing seams. Check.
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Read on a Mustang restoration site, that to remove the sprayed on tar stuff under fender wells (etc) is cheaply removed with the go joe type non grit hand cleaner.
Apply a heavy coating. Power wash off the next day. Supposed to work good.
So I picked up 4 lb 5 oz jug of the stuff.
Pink. Must have been made for wenches ? ;D
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Looks good, wish I could deal with rust. ::)
You can, you just don't like bodywork ;) I had to lose a tech (well let him go because he was soooooo slow and made too many mistakes). We're sitting around for lunch and the new guy says he wants to learn ahahahaha everyone laughed and now he's gonna be grinding some rust and banging out dents ahahahaha
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You can, you just don't like bodywork ;)
Nope, been down that road before if I do body work it comes out worse than it was before I started, just ain't me. Missed out on quite a few cool cars/trucks because of rust. :( >:(
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I look at Reeves car and I say to myself what a wonderful car. It's going to be awesome when he finishes it with the love his is showing it.
I know, I used to like it before, just not as interested as I was. But now I'm doing more and more bodywork on the cars coming into the lot :(
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I look at Reeves car and I say to myself what a wonderful car. It's going to be awesome when he finishes it with the love his is showing it.
He also has the "talent", that's what makes it..
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Wouldn't call it so much "talent", as cheap & bullheaded ;D
However, I've done lots of inventing & fab work all my life. Grew up with my Dad's heavy const. co.
Worked for lots of others that had me inventing & building stuff.
Even though I've never done this type of work before, I do not fear it. Mostly.
The part / area I'm unsure I can deal with is in front of the rear wheels / rear door post bottom. Looks complicated.
Will know more after sub frames are in & the inner wheel wells removed.
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Maybe so but there has to be talent there too, I been fabbing stuff all my life too but when it comes to body work, that's a big fat 0 for me, LOL.. ;D ;D
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Welded up an angle iron cross brace....just to be sure nothing moves when I cut the right side wheel well seam out. Which should be done today.
Attack the left side & fire wall lip tomorrow.
With the .125 plate welded in the floors & rockers, nothing should move.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0686_zpsectjkvzi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0686_zpsectjkvzi.jpg.html)
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I do believe that most (not all) of the younger generation have what i call the ''McDonald's syndrome'' need it right now!! A lot of us had to wait for what we wanted, and so when we work on our cars we understand things take awhile. I can't tell you how many people could not believe I spent 4 1/2 years building my Hot-Rod,didn't seem that odd to me. As for myself I enjoy pushing out from the dock and then figuring out what I'm going to use for paddles.Rememb er if it was easy everyone would be doing it!! From all that I've seen of Reeves work he works on the slow and steady plan,and I look forward to the finished product.
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I know I said yesterday for the right side to be done......othe r stuff to do & I wanted to head scratch some more.
Cut just under 1 1/2" out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0687_zps0qvtcdvt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0687_zps0qvtcdvt.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0688_zpscysoioz4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0688_zpscysoioz4.jpg.html)
Cut a new piece out of .060 metal. 1.5" - wanted a little more there for the spray skirt attachment.
All welded in. Need to do some grinding / sander disk & re-blast & prime (remember, all primer will be gone when the car goes for the full blasting / epoxy primer).
Welded both sides.
Note the door post weld. All seams on this car will be welded, both sides where I can.
There WILL be no LEAKS on / in this car !
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0689_zpsje4gkb9h.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0689_zpsje4gkb9h.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0690_zpswrhccyvd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0690_zpswrhccyvd.jpg.html)
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Man that's a lot of welding. I'm getting lazy in my old age LOL.
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Yes, it is (shakes head at self :o ) ;D
Had a look at the 10 lb (?) roll of mig wire..... gonna need more - soon ! LOL !
I did use it on other projects though.
Not sure how much I'll get done the next couple days. Right knee swollen up & hurting.
Kneeling on concrete ?
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Drivers side behind the wheel seam done.
Will post pictures later.
Next up will be the fire wall lip. I have it marked out for cutting on the new metal.
It is up on 4 jack stands. Front suspension is off. Due to the Header building for the B2P is going forward, I have to put the suspension back on, lower it & roll it out of the way to load the white car up for transport to the welders place.
While the white car is gone , I'll get this one on the rotisserie. Need the room to set it up.
Next few days will be busy !
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Glad you are posting your progress and photos , mostly in the cowl area , which a lot of pintos have a problem there, now people can see what in it and know what to look for to stop the damage and rusting out , which also later leads to water getting under the carpet rust out the floor pans , most end up scrapping the car because of it, good job , hope your knees get well from working on the floor , or praying too much :o
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/JOKES/bowpinto.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/JOKES/bowpinto.gif.html)
;D
Lots of work yesterday.
The fire wall lip & sides are welded in.
Had to take it off the jack stands & move it over tight to one side - making room to get the white car out & load onto the trailer this AM.
If I have time this aft I'll do some grinding (sanding disk on grinder) & take pictures.
After that I have to sand blast the box (goes under cowl) & repair some rust out areas.
At the start of this I was spooked, big time, about opening this can of worms.
Once started (the longest step) it isn't so bad.
Cannot help but wonder how many cars in even better shape, ended up in scrap yards.
Hope this topic helps yet another car to be saved......
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Looking forward to seeing this. 8) 8)
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My 73's cowl was definitely much worse & I saved it but only because the rest of the car around it was in good shape. Plus I'm making it into a driver for my stepson rather than a show car so perfection is not critical on that car.
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As mentioned, fire wall lip & sides done. I have not ground the welds yet - putting the rotisserie together ;D
Work on the box will have to wait till I have the turner done !
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0693_zpszmqyiej7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0693_zpszmqyiej7.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0694_zpsfubn9qp6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0694_zpsfubn9qp6.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0695_zpsoyxzujj9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0695_zpsoyxzujj9.jpg.html)
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Front "spinner" done / mounted.
Rear is assembled. Need to build mounting brackets now.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0697_zpsc56qt5al.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0697_zpsc56qt5al.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0696_zpszwpokwa9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0696_zpszwpokwa9.jpg.html)
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wow, nice work...nice garage and tools as well.....!!!!! ;)
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Only tool I'm missing is a plasma cutter.
Been using zip blades to cut 1/4" plate.
Takes time & blades.......g ood thing is I not often have to cut thick metal.
Spent yesterday drilling out the back bottom bumper bracket bolts. Tap over size to 7/16 NC.
Also removed the diff / springs.
Will start on the rear brackets today.
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Built the rear car brackets. Used the drilled & tapped to 7/16" lower bumper bracket hole as one attachment point. 1/4" plate used. (likely over kill)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0702_zpsxeuxx2iq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0702_zpsxeuxx2iq.jpg.html)
Under the car, mounting point(s) are the rear of the leaf spring mounting point.
I had to laminate two together to clear the back metal that is the back panel (don't know what it's called).
So, three 7/16" gr 8 bolts & the most forward long one is 3/8" bolt. Total 4 bolts , each side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0701_zpshhbfrx2x.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0701_zpshhbfrx2x.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0699_zpsq7ncsq5w.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0699_zpsq7ncsq5w.jpg.html)
After that I welded the 2" x 2" tubing on the spinner. I still have to make & weld on gussets from the point I welded onto the mount brackets , back 3/4 the way to the spinner.
Got called back to work & couldn't finish it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0700_zpsvf9nhwjb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0700_zpsvf9nhwjb.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0698_zpsbwnaqk7j.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0698_zpsbwnaqk7j.jpg.html)
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Just awesome Reeves! Where is it now? I LOVE the trunk model too!
I have Rotisserie envy you know!
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Car is in my shop.
Back for a few weeks & will do lots more...... with breaks to re-assemble the white car.
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Not getting lots done....return ed home worn out.....
I did some sand blasting the last couple days. Having trouble with the air line freezing off.
Not good with edit programs, so put tape on 3 spots with perf. Back left seat mount & right side, same place. No big deal. Had plans to strengthen the seat mount areas anyway.
Third spot is in the seam where your left heel would be, below the dimmer switch.
Blasted seams to be welded on the under sides. Top side done before mounting on the rotisserie.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0705_zpslrqaq2uy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0705_zpslrqaq2uy.jpg.html)
Loving the rotisserie ! LOL !
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0706_zps9yc5sfao.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0706_zps9yc5sfao.jpg.html)
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Perf / rust in the seat bolt down areas. Cut back left & back right out.
No way to get the rust out from behind the smaller seat support brackets...... so off they came.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0713_zps3boswfoc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0713_zps3boswfoc.jpg.html)
I cut .125 plate to replace the back corners, and .125 plate as new supports and welded in.
Strong, solid & never to rust again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0708_zpsl6r0fsnu.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0708_zpsl6r0fsnu.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0707_zpsktfzrf6b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0707_zpsktfzrf6b.jpg.html)
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Looks good, should last a lifetime.
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When I'm done I think it will easily exceed 50 years before needing any re-fresh......with proper care, maintenance and storage.
In Canada, with our short summers, it could last 1000 years ;D
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A classic for future museums. ;D
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Back last fall I bought a new tank of gas for the mig. Wanted 2 because I knew places would be closed over the Xmas break..... ran one tank out......insta ll the "new" tank on Jan 1st - empty ! They sold me a dry tank !
So, I rolled it out & sand blasted a number of areas / seams , so it will be ready for welding.
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A dry tank, that had to $uck. :(
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Spring break !
Two new tanks of gas !
Time to get going again.....befo re things dry up & the "Honey Do List" comes out ! ;D
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Good ole "Honey Do List", lol.. ;D
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Cars/giphy_zpsmsrzfsvg.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Cars/giphy_zpsmsrzfsvg.gif.html)
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Perfect description, lol..
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Between the "Honey Do" list & trying to get the white car going I'm not making headway. Much.
Got the box (under windshield cowl) blasted & ready for several small repairs.
After that I can make a mess with POR 15 & weld it back on.
I'll post a picture later....
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0737_zpsaz72mcny.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0737_zpsaz72mcny.jpg.html)
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And I thought changing a floor pan was work, 😳 ,
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Not really that bad.
I think it took an hour , or a bit more, to remove the cowl & box with the spot weld bit.
Another couple hours to blast - air compressor has a bad cyl, so have to let cool often (gotta re-build one day , and it's nearly new)
Going to take a bunch of time to put back together though !
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Yep done that before , just finished my rear right quarter panel , kind of half and half , drill out the spot welds at the bottom and along the wheel well and cut out the bent stuff, got it all welded in and primed , next is paint , but thumbs up to you saving that 72 , good year . 👍
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Finally getting rain = shop time.
Got some POR 15 on the support brace for the master cyl / steering / firewall. Also on the new lip for the box.
Wife is picking up some new tiny wire brush thingys for the dremil (sp ?) , so I can clean up the spot welds for welding it back in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0745_zps02jbnpcj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0745_zps02jbnpcj.jpg.html)
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Got it welded back in.
Was going to weld around the edge & decided not to. Couldn't see any benefit.
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It's coming together good..
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It's coming together good..
Even a small step forward, is still a step forward !
"Normal" years I am already back working away from home by now.
"Normal" years , all the small work things the wife can come up with , she can / will deal with.
Yet when home......she can figure out things for me to do that eats away my shop time !
It's a conspiracy , I tell you !
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Yet when home......she can figure out things for me to do that eats away my shop time !
It's a conspiracy , I tell you !
Sounds routine to me, lol.. ;D ;D
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Finally got some done.
Cut the rust out of the box & heater snorkel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0767_zpspggcywp7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0767_zpspggcywp7.jpg.html)
All new metal welded in & smoothed out some.
I put POR 15 where the snorkel goes & will weld in after it dries. Just the spot welds.
I'll be putting more POR 15 around it after welded on & seam sealer when dry.
I will then give both side of the box a quick blast to "freshen" it up, then the POR double wash stuff....then spray 4-5 coats to both sides.
Then weld back in place. Hope to be done early next week - then start on the cowl.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0768_zpsxv5djbga.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0768_zpsxv5djbga.jpg.html)
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After welding in the snorkel I applied a thick coat of POR 15 inside / outside of the snorkle, then used about 20 lbs air pressure to "push" it under the snorkel, from 2 sides.
Then.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0769_zpsyzzqrn9l.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0769_zpsyzzqrn9l.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0770_zpsoyns5p00.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0770_zpsoyns5p00.jpg.html)
Two coats on what is the inside of car. Three coats inside of box / cowl. I'll top coat it between cowl / box & explain the installation later.
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Shouldn't have to worry about rust now..
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Done early this week ..... LOL !
Got the cowl & cowl to inner fender braces blasted.
Lots to do yet !
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Welded about every 4" (at spot weld holes).
Feels good to finally get this stating back together !
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0771_zps22gxojnh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0771_zps22gxojnh.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0772_zpspuzfa2ia.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0772_zpspuzfa2ia.jpg.html)
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Cowl to inner fender braces have to go on before all the POR 15 is applied.
POR 15 will be on under the brace areas & then weld spot welds.
After attached again, Por the rest of them & cowl.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0773_zpszakh6jiz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0773_zpszakh6jiz.jpg.html)
I'll weld the supports back on tomorrow, after it's cured.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0774_zps66tup3xx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0774_zps66tup3xx.jpg.html)
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Please tell me your retired so I can look forward to putting that much work in my car. It's fantastic!
Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
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Wish I could do that stuff..
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Not retired.
I'm a (very long time) hoe (excavator) operator.
Working the Patch (oil & gas), I get lots of time off. Too much, some years.
Only been working on stuff like this mornings.
Afternoon I am generally outside doing other stuff I dislike.
Like garden stuff. Lawn stuff etc......
If I had been working 10 - 12 hours a day on this car, it would likely be done.
Cannot do so though. Owning an acreage means tons of "other" work , during my time off & home.
I also have to be "in the mood" to do car work. I find it is more "likeable" when doing the work when feeling like it.
Some mornings I'll head to the shop with good intentions ........ only to sit , look , and think through what needs doing.
Very rare for me to make / draw out plans. Do it all in my head & it manages to stay there for a long time.
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Invented a new way to make a mess ! LOL !
Welded on the corner braces.
As you know, welding will burn off some of the POR 15.
So.....using a paint brush I loaded up all seams / holes (some at a time & after not enough card board on the floor) & blow it in / under with 25 lbs of air.
Good thing I also had old coveralls & safety glasses on ;D
Going to hit it again ......
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All the POR 15 done - 3 coats on top of box & 2 under the cowl.
It's clamped in place for test fitting. Fits perfect !
I'm missing some air fittings for my new spray guns, so didn't get the epoxy primer shot on the parts... yet.
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That thing should last forever once it's done..
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Plan is "overkill" on this car ! ;D
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Long time getting this far......
Cowl & box welded back in.
I'll have a bunch of fine grinding along the windshield side and a few other places.
Clean up & POR on the outside along where welds are.
I have a plan on how to get POR 15 into the seams I welded......mo re on that later !
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0779_zpss974xvof.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0779_zpss974xvof.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0778_zpshdjjmwer.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0778_zpshdjjmwer.jpg.html)
BTW - all measures up straight with the front end. Must have done something right ! LOL !
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Plan is "overkill" on this car ! ;D
Gotta agree there, LOL..
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Well , the new spray gun , meant for spraying inside frame rails etc - doesn't work.
Testing outside it will not spray , at any pressure , through any more than about 4" of hose.
This was with POR 15.
The undercoating material it came with is much thicker , and will test with that today. Doubt it will work.
All the outside seams I could get at with a brush was done the messy way. Load the seam & use 25 + lbs air to blow into the seams - twice. The box is done & now I can apply seam sealer inside the car / bottom of the box.
Going to apply it in a narrow bead first & "press" into the seam. Then a wider bead & a third if needed.
For the inside cowl seams ..... I'll be in town tomorrow looking for another type of sprayer.
Going to be a bit of a PITA with this one area done , with so much to do to the rest of the car. It will be well protected when complete though.
When the front end is done & before starting on the sub frames , I'll likely take it to a frame shop to see / make sure it's 100 % straight.
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Seam sealer was done on the inside / outside of the box two days ago.
Yesterday - due to me always getting up too early for town (between 3 & 4 AM) - I welded a bunch on the frame rails & floor. Have to use a sanding disk on the grinder to make a bit nicer.
Didn't get to town though.... try today. Want to finish the cowl !
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Well, not what I had in my head, but it is working well !
Got a simple sprayer & took a couple parts off the nozzle , hook a hose & length of (new) brake line.
I set up the same on the air gun.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0780_zpsoaxssgpw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0780_zpsoaxssgpw.jpg.html)
With the car on it's side so the POR 15 will run down the seam. Use 25 lbs air to force into the seam.
Started in the middle & down.
I'll rotate the car to do the other half - windshield side first. Front of inside cowl will be done after the back is done & dry.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0781_zpsnn6ui6ir.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0781_zpsnn6ui6ir.jpg.html)
It's all I could come up with , after visiting Bumpers , NAPA & other stores.
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Hey, if it works that's all that matters, looks like a good idea to me...
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Last couple days been thinking of writing a book : "How To Make A Big Job Bigger !"
Any buyers ? ;D
Inside of cowl seams done....... maybe.
Going to test that (bought) sprayer & see if it will spray the undercoating it comes with.
Doubt it......much thicker than POR 15.
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Under coating sprayer doesn't work - it's going back to NAPA !
Read on a car forum about using (non grit) hand cleaner to remove the old tar undercoating ...... so I applied to both sides & will power wash tomorrow. Will let you know if it works.......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0782_zpsqs2tcshb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0782_zpsqs2tcshb.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0783_zpsl29yecnm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0783_zpsl29yecnm.jpg.html)
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This morning I "tested" how well it softened the tar with a putty knife.
The this stuff was melted. Thicker stuff was mostly soft.
I cleaned all areas with the putty knife & re-applied the hand cleaner.
Waited a couple hours & power wash all off.
What little is left I can clean up with Brake Kleen (buy it by the 19 LT pail).
Would I recommend this method ? YES !
(with all the bare metal on this car, I blow dried it with air)
Some of the black you can see , like on the frame rails & cross member , is black paint.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0784_zpsu25je95a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0784_zpsu25je95a.jpg.html)
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Will be adding pictures soon.
Sand blasting on a big scale...... note to self..... rent a bigger compressor when blasting large areas ! :o
My compressor is large, but not enough for sustained blasting. It over heats (even with a large fan blowing on it), so lots of waiting for it to cool.
Three days so far & have one (maybe two) more day(s) left....depend ing on weather.
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Shows most of what is blasted. Still have inside inner fenders, back of rad support, fire wall & some inside the fire wall/floor.
Decided not to fully weld the trans support in. So POR 15 & blow in. Smooth out the mess.....will sand that area when the time comes to shoot (spray) the rest.
Also blasted plenty far enough back to start the sub frame....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0786_zpsw9ihvqsv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0786_zpsw9ihvqsv.jpg.html)
Wish pictures showed bigger on this forum.....anyo ne try "save as" and see if it's a bigger picture on your computer ?
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I did a "save as" on your picture, and in pictures it comes up larger, and can be enlarged much more from there. The underside of your Pinto looks fantastic. It'll be great to have a beautiful, shiny car on the topside, and not worry what untouched forty plus year old mess underneath is going to let go. Looking good!
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Good to know they can be made bigger.
Spent a really long day blasting. Got to the last 2' x 4" of the window frame left.......and the blaster broke down for the 5th time. So tired I could hardly walk , so quit.
I'll be able to spray all but the window frame & inside.
Raining (again) and calling for more tomorrow...... no blasting.
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That looks great. 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0786_zpsw9ihvqsv.jpg)
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Was "happy" about how I made the white B2 engine compartment "pretty" with blue wire harness....... . till I had seen this picture of a really clean install ! Never seen (saw ?) the like before !
Means the blue car is going to get more changes , down the road !
(except for a cut rad support !)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/clean%20install_zpstcn6sj4o.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/clean%20install_zpstcn6sj4o.jpg.html)
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That is a clean one..
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If all goes well , should be sprayed today...... unless POR 15 is too thick for the gun ? Then it's by hand :'(
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At least when you get done it should last a tad over 200 years 😎
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That's the plan. Hope the next (few) owners will have the knowledge to properly care, maintain & store it......
My sprayer "kit" has two guns. One for paint & the other for primer. Used the primer gun & it worked great ! Got two coats on yesterday. Faster than a brush - but messy. Over spray. Used up lots of plastic to cover floor & up sides of shop. Of course, the wind came up too high to open the big shop door.
Pics later......
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Black
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0788_zps5hygivjw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0788_zps5hygivjw.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0787_zpsyhuot37m.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0787_zpsyhuot37m.jpg.html)
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Dang, this thing should last 200yrs in the ocean, LOL..
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Dang, this thing should last 200yrs in the ocean, LOL..
Ain't that the truth?!?!?!
Dwayne ;D
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Guess your getting good at doing it , well I got this 79 pinto wagon I could bring over and ;D
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Built a wagon for a guy back in the 70s. He had a body shop , so I did all the install from rad back . All he had left to do was body work. No idea if he got it done though - I moved from Ont. to BC right after that.
This blue car will be my last build.....
After getting the above POR 15 on, I felt burned out (tired) so just tinker in the shop..... I have big plastic bins for parts. Sorted them out so all the new stuff was in the biggest bin. Stuff to be re-built , blasted , painted (or POR) in other bins.
I removed the four ball joints from the swing arms & since I do not have a press, will take them to town (have to go anyway to ship a Hurst shifter) and have the bushings pressed out. They'll be ready for blasting then.
Two of my Peacocks have been sitting - hatch due between 7th (today) and 9th. Have to make some ramps for the wee ones & get set up for them - so not much car stuff for a day or so.....
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Yesterday was town day. Dislike town days because too much time is lost , sometimes the whole day.
Anyone that has looked under the dash , knows the unpainted OEM parts rust.
Hate rust....... so to salvage the day I blasted small parts.....you can guess what I'll do with them ? ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0789_zps2mp9ggpl.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0789_zps2mp9ggpl.jpg.html)
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Gee, can't imagine what's next, lol. ;D ;D
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Maybe (ok, probably) I missed it along the way, but why the unPOR'd stripes on the bottom of the floor? My first thought would be that you are going to add subframe connectors?
Russ
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I had so much blasted area(s) that it was starting to get a "patina" of rust again.
Add to this, I often work away from home so much, no car time.
Plus the sub frames......so blast (again) and coat it.
POR 15 doesn't blast off easy. I have to use a sanding disk on my grinder to thin it out to blast it. I didn't want coating on areas I am going to cut out.
I'm ready to start on the sub frames though. But at least I can go to work now & if I have no car time till the Xmas break, the car will be OK to leave as is.
Sub frames will be built in several phases....... pictures & explain as I go......
Got the small parts coated with POR 15 - but not black. Forgot I ran out of black , yet had a new can of grey. No big deal, they'll be painted Grabber blue anyway.
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All the parts except for the clutch/brake/bracket has been wrapped in bubble wrap & stored in a big plastic tote.
Brake/clutch pedals had runs in the POR - sanded them out, sand all over & re-coated.
Today I'll paint the pedals & reassemble the whole bracket , so it will be ready for installation when it's time.
Off topic...... I have two Black Shoulder Peacocks on nests. One came off her nest yesterday with five babies !
Other hen is due now as well. They went broody within a day or two of the first one......
Funny how they change with young ones. Before she was shy when near the aviary. Now she is acting like a grumpy Grizzly ! ;D
Older pictures ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Birds/3May252011.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Birds/3May252011.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Birds/7May252011.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Birds/7May252011.jpg.html)
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That's pretty cool..
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Finished re-building the brake/clutch/bracket. Even new pedal rubbers !
Lube bushings with white lithium grease, before sliding the clutch arm through.
Works smooth & no slop.
Wrapped in bubble wrap & put away - ready to install.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0791_zpsxn5iuxny.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0791_zpsxn5iuxny.jpg.html)
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Looks good.
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Got tired of tripping over rusty control arms....
Blasted & POR 15 ;D
I have top bushings. After I get the bottoms I'll have them pressed in (and touch up the POR).
Will be new ball joints as well.
Getting new strut arms - already have the bushings for them.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0793_zpsvzxvkbea.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0793_zpsvzxvkbea.jpg.html)
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Lookin' good Reeves :)
My upper control arms arepainted with new parts and ready for install too. I ground off the little teeth so as to let the bushings move easier for weight transfer.
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Unless something changes.... this one is mainly a street car. Will be raced a few times. Not concerned (too much) about weight transfer.
HP will likely be 400 ish max.
Just building a "frisky" 302w & T-5 for it.
Diff will be a 9" with something like 4:11 - 4:30 ?
Rear tires will be 29 x 18.50 x 15
SUB frames & have not decided on floating the diff & ladder bars , or go with something like Cal Tracks....
Should hook hard anyway......
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Had a short time to do a bit..... using the spot weld bit I removed the cross braces at the back seat area. Have to come out for SUB frames anyway.
Will be blasted (maybe today).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0794_zps7ghdahsa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0794_zps7ghdahsa.jpg.html)
Perf area on right side floor. I held a light under floor to show better ?
No big deal / easy fix after SUB frames are in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0795_zps88r6zkqz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0795_zps88r6zkqz.jpg.html)
Running out of sand, time & $. Need to get back to work soon !
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Damn that is sweet. Nice work!
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Looks like my car got a Cat Scan as well ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0797_zpshytcraz3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0797_zpshytcraz3.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0798_zpsbvviheju.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0798_zpsbvviheju.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0800_zps7it0t5zh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0800_zps7it0t5zh.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0799_zps1sqzks7b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0799_zps1sqzks7b.jpg.html)
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And I'm sure he gave his approval. ;D
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Few more parts blasted & coated.
Note the radio delete plate (will be painted black on the front later today).
Didn't even know they were made for Pintos !
I've seen BOSS 302 delete plates go for $500.00 +.
Got mine for $15.00 ! LOL !
Auto brake pedal. One never knows..... I also have an OEM shifter.
Hinge back plates, shock access plates, right door hinges (left I'm going to put new bushings & pins because they have a tiny bit of play), fuse block mount & front brake hose brackets.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0806_zps0kcjbvwm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0806_zps0kcjbvwm.jpg.html)
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Answers my questions about primer......
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Self-Etch-Primer_p_35.html
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Good information..
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Yes, good news/info. Was worried that come primer/paint time I'd have to sand every square inch of the car - I do not like sanding etc.
Not sure when that will happen. Alberta (all oil/gas work) has slowed down to a nearly dead industry. Jobs few and far between. I did land one though, for mid Aug.
All the parts have been wrapped up in bubble wrap & put into the big plastic containers I'm using for storage. Got more containers with done stuff than not done !
I set the dash in place. Going to set the brackets that go behind the dash in place as well. Trying to decide if cage tubes should go through the top of the dash, or in front.....if through, makes no sense to get the dash done.
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I think I would put them right in front of it..
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Likely will.....want to keep the fresh air vent & behind will be in the way of other brackets etc.
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Tinkered with a few small parts.
Tested the Permatex gel rust remover on the ash tray.
Works much slower than it says on the bottle. Plus you have to remove as much rust as you can before using the gel. Next time I use it, will likely leave it for 4+ hours & see what it does.
Ordered a set of bottom control arms - NOS - with the bushings & ball joints - also NOS.
Will finish the originals & have as spares - or build a re-build "kit" to sell.........?
Less than a week before work starts up, so work on the car will grind to a halt on the car. Sort of.....got a list of parts to buy ! ;D
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Was wondering how that Permatex stuff worked, guess you can't be in a rush..
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Wanted to test on a small part, before the dash.
Ideal would be to take the VIN off & take it to town rad shop. He can acid dip etc & have it 100% clean........b ut I have not found a buddy that will send me the rosette rivits I'd need to put the VIN back on (hint hint....LOL ), which in aluminum & would melt in the dip.
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Thought you couldn't get those rivets??.. ???
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Thought you couldn't get those rivets??.. ???
Google: Ford Rosette Rivets
All I found are in the States though......
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Lot of interesting reading on that.
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I've read that some States they are illegal to have/sell etc.
Tried to find out from the RCMP here if I could remove the tag for restoration. Never did get a clear answer.
Also tried from a local registration place & same, no clear answer.
Even when I asked different places, I get different answers.
Not wanting to get into some kind of troubles.....w ith using "normal" rivets, I have been looking into the melt rust stuff.
Again..... seems hard to get the good stuff in Canada.
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It is a touchy situation alright lot of controversy, I seen a thread on a forum a while back it was around 30 pages, and after reading the whole thing you were no farther ahead than at the beginning. I do know if they see plain rivets they'll nail ya though.. I knew a guy that glued a piece of rubber over the plate before blasting to save the plate and it worked.
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Mention VIN rivets in a Sunbeam Tiger crowd and you might get even more than 30 pages of discussion. The Tigers/Alpines had no other ID (nothing chassis stamped) but two plates on the cowl. One was the Rootes Group (Sunbeam) plate that was riveted. The other was the Jensen plate that was screwed on and used to ID the car when they had it for their portion of the build process. Anyway, there has been fraud where Alpines have been converted into Tigers. The Tiger people are tenacious about preventing this. They have no problem with putting a V8 in an Alpine, but they detest doing so and calling the car a Tiger.
Anyway, the special rivets used for the ID plate from Rootes can be a real point of controversy. That said the Tiger Authentication Committee will authenticate a Tiger with both those plates missing. There are a number of significant aspects that differentiate a Tiger from an Alpine, not only the parts, but the methodology as well. In some ways this is a mote point because it doesn't have any authority with the DMV.
I like the method Art mentioned about covering the ID plate with rubber. For cars with dash mounted plates it is conceivable to grind the rivet from the bottom for removal. Then the plate and rivet can be epoxied back on. Original plate, original location, original rivets. But frankly in this day and age of CNC machines I don't doubt that any rivet couldn't be reproduced with much difficulty.
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Tiger project here: http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=73381.0
To think I passed up 2-3 of them for 3k back in the 80s, because I thought it was too much ! :'(
Thought about light sand blasting - the risk of warping the metal is high, due to very thin metal. Plus it doesn't address the issue of rust under the inside bracket/support.
Read about the cut them off under & epoxy back on. Don't want to do that.
Going to try & get the proper rivets...... one day.
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I watched a buddy of mine use aluminum oxide on sheet metal, worked real good as long as you don't stay in one spot there was no warpage at all..
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Those prices ($18,500 ea.) for a Tiger might not be too bad. I'd have to know how much rust there is on the one that is stated to have it. I've heard/seen a few Tigers going in the $120,000 range. But I believe a lot of that was alcohol and auction driven. I still think you can get a decent one for under $50,000 if you are patent and not expecting pristine. $60,000-$80,00 would be more typical for very nice Tigers. Thus the $20,000 range for Tiger than need extensive work.
I got mine in 2000. A basket case for sure, but not the worse kind. It came with $800 in new parts, a complete front clip and the hard top. The asking price for everything was $5,900 and I got it down to $5,100. I got the Tiger itself for $3,500 and the parts, clip and HT were valued at the remaining $1,600. These items, not installed, were thus not taxed on the sale price. My only problem is I stopped working on it in 2004 and it still sits. Three other cars got in the way (my Turbo Pinto being one of them) and now my daughter's 6 month Tiny House project is now entering its third year of construction. :(
My apology to the OP for the diversion. But when a post gets 7 pages long..., they tend to meander.
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No real diversion....
Tigers are big time cool !
First one I laid eyes on was at Cayuga race track (early 70s ?) in Ont. Canada. Guy was in the staging lanes cursing a blue streak, changing spark plugs ;D
Was turning very low 11s - this was on a real 1/4 mile: 1320'
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Work buddy one Province to the west (BC) had some wheels given to him.
He is giving them to me. Not the best pictures....he says they will or should clean up OK.
There are 4 "skinny" ones and two wide ones.
Tires on all of them is toast.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/20160825_062033_zps14srzqhi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/20160825_062033_zps14srzqhi.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/20160825_062044_zpssfeygxzy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/20160825_062044_zpssfeygxzy.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/20160825_062106_zpsmq2aowwi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/20160825_062106_zpsmq2aowwi.jpg.html)
I'll take better pictures after I get them. No idea when that will be. He will bring them when the next job starts.
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FYI - I bought a NOS set of lower control arms - complete with bushings & lower ball joints !
I'll pick up bushings & ball joints to re-build the ones I blasted & POR 15 coated......ju st because ;D
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Needed to save a link.....
https://www.msdperformance.com/products/distributors/ford/parts/8579
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Like those wheels.. 8)
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I'll have better pictures soon.
Buddy is delivering them to me at work tomorrow......
I had already looked on line a bit for tires. Not common any more, it seems ?
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Nope, they're getting harder and harder to find and not much variety..
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Home last week, so had a chance to look those wheels over : junk. Pitted bad.
Lower control arms came in while I was gone. Looked them over & they look good. Next time I have the blaster going (likely next spring) they'll get done & POR coated.
Work is slow......extr a (car) funds small. Going to slow things down.
Unless the B2 car sells......I've put the word ,out here & there.
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Shop tinkering....
Made a couple new clutch cable clevises.
OEM on the left. Worn pin holes - forget whom I bought it from ?
I have a couple new pins. Have to shorten them & drill for cotter pins.
I have a NOS cable. Now new clevis, and a spare.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0847_zpsceyne5wd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0847_zpsceyne5wd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0845_zpsadbcykrf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0845_zpsadbcykrf.jpg.html)
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Looks good, got a brand new system now..
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Modified the new clutch fork....forgot to take a picture. Will do so today, because I need a chunk of a Pinto fork to mod another....
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Area I cut to weld onto a new fork. Need one more.... so if someone has one, can you cut this part out (zip blade on grinders) and mail to me ? Best to cut extra so I can fit myself.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0864_zps7u4gwgtn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0864_zps7u4gwgtn.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0863_zps10mqpzft.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0863_zps10mqpzft.jpg.html)
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Only thing I got done during the Xmas break , was to install the rod for lining up the sub frame / springs , when the time comes to install the SUB frames.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/0291_zpsgdypla0n.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/0291_zpsgdypla0n.jpg.html)
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Picked up 3" x 1.5" x .100 wall tubing for the SUB frames. Hard to find here...
I still have a few short pieces to pick up for the front spring mounts, .125 flat plate & cross tubing.
I can get that locally though.
Stocked up on POR 15.
Stocked up on sand blasting sand & blaster parts, that wear quickly.
Ordering some front (hard to find) front suspension parts.
Wish I could find a re-build kit for the rack......
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Found NOS front & rear valances (below bumpers) for the car - bought them !
They are being shipped soon.....
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Best way I've found to get called back to work......star t a project ! ;D
Yesterday I started cleaning & moving stuff around the shop, so I can now work on this car.
Marked the first part of the SUB frame lines.
Rain today, so cannot roll it out for some sand blasting , before I start cutting.....
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Last Sunday I blasted the areas to start the SUB frames. Should be cutting the pan in the AM , as well as the start of the 1.5" x 3" tubing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0892_zpsvzttoszl.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0892_zpsvzttoszl.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0893_zpslzre031i.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0893_zpslzre031i.jpg.html)
Is it this site that is shrinking the pics so you have to click on them ? Don't like that.....
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Got started.....mo stly welded in on this piece. More changes will be made in the seat area & will make more sense later....
Got the other side cut out & the pieces cut, for install today.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0901_zpssogqzks1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0901_zpssogqzks1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0900_zpsmqxeupbf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0900_zpsmqxeupbf.jpg.html)
FYI - this moves the spring mounts in 8". It's getting big tubs for the planned 29 x 18.50 x 15 tires !
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Day started with a suspension up-grade for my sand blaster - blown wheel !
Had some much stronger ones on the shelf. 5/8" axle shaft as well.
Still have to install a longer leg on the one side, so it sits level. Wanted it working right now though.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0903_zps7s8cbuet.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0903_zps7s8cbuet.jpg.html)
As can be seen (?), at the end of the first part, it angles up towards the trunk. Plan is to eliminate one angle at the back bottom of where the back seat was. Also have plans to eliminate about 1/2 of that area, allowing more room in front of the axles, in case I decide on ladder bars & in case I run the exhaust out the back, rather than dumping in front of the back wheels. (thinking about Caltracks as well)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0902_zps7p5jwgfm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0902_zps7p5jwgfm.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0905_zpsacjwvbmb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0905_zpsacjwvbmb.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0904_zps8c58jtu4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0904_zps8c58jtu4.jpg.html)
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Lots of nice reinforcement there. The down side of sandblasting is that the sand seems to trickle out for some time, even after a good vacuum.
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Yup on the sand ! LOL !
Tidy up day. Closed up the front inside & made attachment points for the crotch belt for a 5 point harness.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0908_zpsqwcjkcyw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0908_zpsqwcjkcyw.jpg.html)
Bolt is for show.... need to get longer ones.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0906_zpskeaxx8e2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0906_zpskeaxx8e2.jpg.html)
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Yesterday blasted more areas & tubing for frame work.
First thing today will be welding in the braces that go from the front spring perches to the rockers.
Then start on the pieces going to the back , through the trunk.
This section will be done in two parts.
I'll be bracing the car up at the front spring perches. Then welding the new frame from the top, where I can.
Then remove the OEM shock & old gas tank brackets & spare tire well.
More blasting, then finish welding in where I can.
Going to take a couple/few days.....
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Got more done. More or less..... still have a cross brace to go in, which will be a place to mount shock tops & gas tank. Lots of fab work to the floor pan in the back seat area.
I removed parts from the bottom & next is some more blasting on the bottom side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0909_zpswo7re4p9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0909_zpswo7re4p9.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0910_zpsap2yl4n3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0910_zpsap2yl4n3.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0911_zpslhnzpxfx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0911_zpslhnzpxfx.jpg.html)
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Blasting yesterday & cutting/welding today. Still have some pan welds to frame rails under the car to do. Then I can make the mods to the back seat area between the rails. This is for more room in front of the axles for "stuff".
Cut some of the old wheel wells out. Lots more to remove, but I'm down to one zip blade !
Note that the tubing at the back of the car ties into the OEM spring perches.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0923_zpsnndbx4lo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0923_zpsnndbx4lo.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0925_zpswjgpteh8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0925_zpswjgpteh8.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0922_zpscua2dtd7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0922_zpscua2dtd7.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Blue%2072/IMG_0924_zpsowkw3kd5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Blue%2072/IMG_0924_zpsowkw3kd5.jpg.html)
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Wanted to test on a small part, before the dash.
Ideal would be to take the VIN off & take it to town rad shop. He can acid dip etc & have it 100% clean........b ut I have not found a buddy that will send me the rosette rivits I'd need to put the VIN back on (hint hint....LOL ), which in aluminum & would melt in the dip.
Since I want a fiberglass dash in my 72 I plan to grind the rivet from the back side of the steel dash so the heads are intact then use silicone adhesive to glue the tag/rivets to the glass dash.
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Pinto 5.0 - good to see you posting !
I see the right rivets listed in the States......no t sure if they would cross to here though ?
I'll likely do as you are....
Would REALLY like to know your thoughts on my SUB frames......
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IMGUR account...
Got one side pan boxed in today. Gives me an extra 4.5" at the back & 2" at the front of the box.
(http://i.imgur.com/g75UrC8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cgvA3r1.jpg)
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Rear pan mods done. Some grinding to do here & there.
One inner wheel well removed - ran out of zip blades, on a Sunday.....and long week end !
(http://i.imgur.com/wM55jM4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/mJrMFnB.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Fksw7tn.jpg)
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It's easier posting on facebook since this site doesn't want to load using my aircard. I also can't access Photobucket using my aircard so I can't put up pix either.
The chassis is coming out great. I can't wait to see it with the springs & axle fitted.
I just can't seem to find time to touch my 72. Too many things keep getting in my way.
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Diff will be narrowed - don't know when though.
Still undecided on what all to attach to it yet.
One thought is ladder bars. If I do that, float the diff.
Thought maybe Caltracks ?
Springs will likely be OEM leaf springs ?
Hope to hear how Tony's (in Calgary) works out. 1971 with 351C - split mono with Caltracks.
Also wheelie bars ;D
As mentioned (?) I already have a big bearing diff housing.
Also a Detroit Locker , that has been fluted to reduce rotating mass.
(http://i.imgur.com/X6PodAo.jpg)
Have not decided on gears yet.
Not sure on which trans I'll end up with.
I have a T-5 & a C-4. May end up with something stronger ?
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Dam Derrick you've been busy,mine is going slow now lack of enthusiasm and free cash. Lol. The Caltracs should work seeing as they are a proven product and by the way were a great company to deal with and would recommend them to anyone.
Tony
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Lots to do before I decide on Caltracs or ?
Just started a new job & "extra" cash will not be available for a few months.
Other than some shop supplies, the bulk of the extra $ will go into the white car, which needs valve springs & rockers. Re-coat the Headers & buy front wheels & tires.
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There's a street.....guy ...near me who runs a Maverick with a CalTracs set up. That thing hooks like crazy on the streets. Um....of Mexico.....
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The caltracs bars look like a lot of money for a bolt on item. You could go 4 link for the same $$. And never forget the Lakewood slapper bars. The Lakewood bars really do work if you get a set of real Lakewoods and not the crap from China. And they are adjustable for a straight launch where the Caltracs are not. Once you install the Caltracs, you'll have to go where the bars send you.
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The caltracs bars look like a lot of money for a bolt on item. You could go 4 link for the same $$. And never forget the Lakewood slapper bars. The Lakewood bars really do work if you get a set of real Lakewoods and not the crap from China. And they are adjustable for a straight launch where the Caltracs are not. Once you install the Caltracs, you'll have to go where the bars send you.
The Caltracks can have the amount of tension in the bars adjusted.
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I can not see how the Caltracks are any better than the tried and proven Traction Master bars. Only difference is Caltrack;s bellcrank up front. And the Traction Master bars are half the price of the Caltracks. Look at a picture of both and you'll see where Caltracks came from. Looks like they were made by the same company.
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I can not see how the Caltracks are any better than the tried and proven Traction Master bars. Only difference is Caltrack;s bellcrank up front. And the Traction Master bars are half the price of the Caltracks. Look at a picture of both and you'll see where Caltracks came from. Looks like they were made by the same company.
Absolutely agree,but it's the bell crank that gives them an advantage over the Traction Master.it is a re-invented wheel but wheels have got better over the years.
On a tighter budget I would. To hesitate to run the other product or even a good slapped bar.
Tony
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Both front / rear valance on the car are badly damaged , so....... NOS ones !
;D
(https://i.imgur.com/Txh6ryb.jpg)
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Absolutely agree,but it's the bell crank that gives them an advantage over the Traction Master.it is a re-invented wheel but wheels have got better over the years.
On a tighter budget I would. To hesitate to run the other product or even a good slapped bar.
Tony
If you really want traction then make you some lift bars that go from the rear end housing forward to the frame. They work really good.
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Ladder bars ?
Like on my white car ?
(https://i.imgur.com/zZKNrWI.jpg)
Still not sure what I'll do. This blue car will be (for me) , likely 99% street car.
For this reason I do not really want ladder bars or to float the diff.
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Lift bars were the rage back in the 60's.They were made from box tubing welded to the axle tubes and run forward to a cross member near the front spring eye. The early pro stock cars around 1964 all had such a set up. And boy did they work. When you droped the hammer on it, the tires would be driven down into the track as the body would rise up because for ever action there is an equal reaction. Had them on my 63 427 Ford Sedan. They would plant the rear tires so hard pictures would show the wheel rim almost hitting the track. They were known sadly, that the axles of the 60's would not last very long. We would paint a white line down the new axle and change it when the axle twisted 1/4 of a turn.
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I seem to remember that style..... not sure I've seen them though ? Maybe "back in the day" ?
I have a bunch of grinding (sanding disk) to do..... yet I'm having a hard time getting motivated.
Maybe today......
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No work on the car this winter.
Been busy with work....which is a good thing. One stretch was 24 days in a row.
Not as much as I'm used to, but it's law now to not work long stretches. Even if one is OK with it.......
Good thing & rare, I'll be working through spring break: more money - but less time to work on stuff.
I'll be ordering parts this car will need down the road though !
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Took 4 (short) days to clean the shop so I can work on the cars !
No work till Jan 3rd. so I should get some much needed shop time in !
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Got a small job done. Rear spring mounts.
(https://i.imgur.com/3jsGwxX.jpg)
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Bought a different style front spoiler for this car.
Made by Spook, for the early cars.
Fiberglass & is in new condition !
(https://i.imgur.com/ZcMlMZx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C9uMqGH.jpg)
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By comparison, I rather like that! Well done!!!
Dwayne :)
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Getting a start on getting it to roll easy....for the cage build.
Took the original diff & moved the spring perches inwards.
Wire wheeled all the parts & a quick sand blast, then cheap paint.
When done with the diff & springs, I'll be building a "trailer" for an old gas welder.
(https://i.imgur.com/q1aoal6.jpg)
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Looking good. Question, the car is obviously up in the air... but I can't see any visible means of support? Is it on a rotisserie?
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Yup , on a rotisserie.
I lowered it yesterday as well. Back tires are on the ground.
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On jack stands now.
Set an engine block with the Milodon pan bolted to it, into the engine bay.
Bolted an aluminum bell to it....which will not work with the fire wall mads I made.
Need the Quick Time bell number 6065 to work with a T-5.
See they went up in price......$749.00 to over 1k !
So I've advertised for a used one that is out of cert (2 years cert) because if I bought a new one, it will be out of cert before it's running anyway.
Will be modifying the fire wall again.
Lots of other small jobs to get done with lack of money anyway....
Which brings up another problem.
Duplicolor bought out Plastikote.
Already had parts painted with Plastikote. Now I cannot find any paints to match the black I had been using.
Bought about 8-10 cans of different paint, different makers & none are the same.
Have not decided what I'll do yet.
Wanted some Eastwood ceramic coat stuff for headers.....ca nnot get in Canada because there is no French on the label !
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Found a place in Calgary that carries Eastwood paints & the ceramic coating for headers !
I marked out the fire wall to be cut out (again).
Trying to get the engine back far enough to get the rad behind the support......
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Need to add pictures.
The first two cable delete steering columns done
(https://i.imgur.com/WQHPxL3.jpg)
Finished the third one yesterday
(https://i.imgur.com/5Jwsoso.jpg)
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Bought a radio delete plate some time ago.
POR 15 coated & now painted , done yesterday.
I'm going to cut a pattern & take that to town as early as tomorrow & get prices on making my own.
Out of Aluminum.
Found more on ebay, but with shipping, exchange, taxes & duty it would cost me over $225.00 each !
The one pictured below cost me $15.00 !
(https://i.imgur.com/XkliyeP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uWs6usJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gwghtY0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8TRWS9o.jpg)
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The irony, - that a radio delete plate was intended as a "hole filler" for those too cheap to buy an AM radio. And yet today they are seen as prized items selling for a pretty penny.
I only have one delete plate, that for my '63 Rambler American. I think I paid $2 for it at U-Pull Parts. And yet the irony here is I have an old, 70's era Kenwood KP-500 radio that fits perfectly in the intended opening. So, maybe the radio delete doesn't get used in this case. Irony. ;D
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my 73 pinto is cigarette lighter delete which i think is pretty neat ..
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my 73 pinto is cigarette lighter delete which i think is pretty neat ..
Picture ?
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it`s my profile picture ..
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That's what kept the cost down. A base '71 Pinto was $1919.00! 1600cc engine, no radio, no cigarette lighter lol my '71 Pintoracer had 3 options, 2.0 engine, auto trans, and AM radio. Drum brakes, rubber floor mat instead of carpet and no cigarette lighter! It had a little metal delete plate! I still have it!
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I got the radio delete plate, Ford part number D4FZ-6204371-A, from nospartsltd.co m last year. Price was/is $ 22.09, I think I paid something like $ 60.00 including shipping to the Netherlands. Luckily it went below the customs radar. Still a lot of money for a tin plate but hey, sounds better then $ 225.00, and it's the original item in the original box.
Isn't this a strange world in which a piece that is worth almost nothing gets lovingly pressed, painted and boxed, then sent out to be shelved, becomes obsolete in ten years, then remains shelved and collecting dust for another 30 years, and then is allowed to fulfill its humble purpose half way across the globe... Just the idea of getting this poor tin plate out in the sun and have it travel was part of the reason I bought it.
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Well, went to town yesterday & got some aluminum plate.
Then talked with a welder & he talked me out of using aluminum.
Oh well, $10.00 & will be used someplace else anyway.
I have some steel but it's thicker than I wanted. Just the same, I went ahead & built one.
OEM one weighs 288 grams / 10.2 OZ.
Mine weighs 416 grams / 14.7 OZ.
I'll blast & paint in a couple days. Was -20c this morning. Fits perfect.
Cost for mine will be less than $10.00 with paint !
(https://i.imgur.com/Pkcl5gv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/P4n9V3K.jpg)
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I think in the 80's and upward the delete plate became a hot item because magazines would do articles on 60's drag cars. You know those cars with special aluminum front ends, aluminum bumpers, batteries in the trunk, gutted interiors etc.. It was at that point that the plate took on an important life of its own. That being if you had a radio delete plate (and possibly a heater delete plate too) then YOUR car was like these rare factory race cars!
I think 72DW's delete plate account runs in the same vain as my Rambler delete plate. That being the irony of it all.
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Wittsend - BOSS 302 ones go for crazy money !
The OEM one I have cost me $15.00 ! LOL
I'll be making a heater delete plate as well.
Heater / defroster is required to pass a safety up here, so a small electric one will be made to fit under the dash.
Going to delete the OEM heater in this blue car.
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That's what kept the cost down. A base '71 Pinto was $1919.00! 1600cc engine, no radio, no cigarette lighter lol my '71 Pintoracer had 3 options, 2.0 engine, auto trans, and AM radio. Drum brakes, rubber floor mat instead of carpet and no cigarette lighter! It had a little metal delete plate! I still have it!
Something in your post about no cig lighter triggered a memory.
Dug out my ash tray & sure enough, no lighter & it has that plug thingy in place !
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Made another out of aluminum 0.050 thick.
Weight is 5.3 oz or 150 grams.
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More progress with the dash mods.
I didn't drill for the speedo yet. Want to get it first so I get the hole the right size.
I had some antique lights I decided to use in this car.
The upper small ones are red , for warning lights.
Lower ones are green & are for signal lights.
Need 5 gauges for what I want to install.
The panels will be sanded & painted a trim black.
(https://i.imgur.com/row3Jks.jpg)
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No idea how / why, blew my right knee out & cannot get out to the shop.
So things on hold for now....
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Feel for you. I have been on ladders trimming trees. I did something??? to my knee. Not obvious at first but developed over time. It has been nearly a month now and no better. I can walk OK, but move j u s t the wrong way and ouch! Hope you get better.
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Getting better fairly fast. Moving around helps.
Went to the shop, easy day planned......y a, right ! LOL
Re-cut the fire wall. I want to get the engine far enough back to put the radiator where it belongs.
Drop a 302w block in & a bell/ T-5 trans.
More cutting need in a couple small fire wall areas & the tunnel.
Today I'll put heads & intake / carb on so I can plan on what / where to cut. As well as a set of Headman Headers.
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Are you using swap headers and a MII pan or custom made pieces? When l put the 5.0 in my '71 the pan and headers dictated how far back the engine could go. I did move the firewall back a few inches though. Glad you're on the mend!
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I always use the 30925 Milodon pans: https://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/ford-oil-pans.php
I have (2) sets of the old school Headman Headers.
They are not going to work - tested today. As you know, the frame rails narrow as they go back.
I may make a custom set.....or look into the ones people have used - shorties put on backwards ?
I like the idea of making my own & know I can do it......
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Is the Milodon pan better than the MII? As far as moving the engine back? I think my early headers are Hedman, (for sale btw} 3 piece and 2 of the tubes went under the crossmember. But l have no doubt you can make anything you want!
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Sounds like yours are the Hookers ? Back two tubes go through the inner fenders & down by the control arms....like the ones made for my B2 ?
(https://i.imgur.com/bvsvJeO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/B6xvAuV.jpg)
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The Milodon pan is 8 QT + the filter.
The back goes down sharply & allows for more room to go backwards.
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I can still move the engine back 1.5" to 2" . Where the T-5 shifter is right now.
(https://i.imgur.com/mHTamRc.jpg)
Headers on the left is up against the rack & touches the cross member, due to being moved back so far. I had test fit them on the white car while the B2 was away getting built, and they fit OK.
(https://i.imgur.com/xlPgD5q.jpg)
I have more to cut out yet.
(https://i.imgur.com/imXxT4s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eIfdApT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QjIQrTS.jpg)
I wasn't going to do this much (and for the 2nd time) but due to being off work & no sight of when I'll return to work.......plu s I want to try and get the radiator BEHIND the rad support.....or at least have more room for the electric fan(s) than the white car.
Engine is just put together from spare parts & not the one that will go in it. Not the Bell I'll be getting as well. The Quick Time bell I'll be using is over $700 now & would be out dated (SFI) before the car is on the road again.
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On the early headers the two back tubes go down beside the inner frame rail, the front two go under the crossmember. The Hookers l have for the '77 have two tubes going out through the inner fender wells like the ones you have but the other tubes go inside of the frame rails not under the crossmember. I cut the inner fender wells and radiator support out, the cage is going to come through the firewall and l'm using a motor plate not frame motor mounts so that gives a lot more clearance. l'm moving the firewall as well so your pics are a big help! Can you get a picture of the pan in the car?
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Pan ? Explain more & I'll take pictures...
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I'd like to see a picture of the oil pan you're using with it in the car to see what kind of clearance there is. My MII pan in the '71 had maybe an inch? maybe? in front of and above the rack. The '77 power steering rack is bigger so.....
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Motor isn't where it's going to be. The aluminum bell I have on has ribs & a raised area where the clutch fork goes & I cannot get it back far enough, till I get the new Quick Time Bell # 6065.
Right now it's about 1/4" above the rack. It will be going back another 1.5" to 2" yet.
Going to make my own Headers & sell the two sets of Headman Headers I have.
New rack from Flaming River.
(https://i.imgur.com/v0fYXT6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kKyAdFw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3EjWVi7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8NBQpjw.jpg)
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Drives me buggy when folks strip a car & send that roller to scrap. Just because they want it to roll.
Many parts can no longer be found.
Not sure what the name of these are - clip nuts ?
They are for the upper control arms. Clip into place & bolts go through the control arm - 1972.
Being on a tight budgit right now...looked up home made rust removal.
Mixed Vinegar & salt. Soaked 3-4 days & washed up.
Buffed on my bench grinder with wire wheel.
Self etch primer & paint = better & more rust proofed than what Ford did.
(https://i.imgur.com/eH2b1ON.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cAXD4ex.jpg)
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This remonds me of my first V-8 pinto I done back in 72 , used a 289 , only thing bad it was to long and I did not want to cut the rad support , noticed you have the long damper and the one I used was short , and had three bolts , saved a inch there , then a fellow working for my dad should me a trick to shorten the water pump by pushing the bearing into the water pump two inchs or more after machineing the nose off the water pump housing , did everything to shorten the engine (had a machine shop ) and it worked , still used the stock hood latch , now I guess the ford exploer 5.0 timing cover and pump may do the same , on a Pinto engine swap every inch counts ,, been there ,
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I use the Ford Racing short water pump & CVF Racing V pulleys meant for this system . Saves 1.5"
I had no choice on the B2 damper.
Next one will be a 302w & likely an after market damper.
Plus I'm moving the engine way back & should be able to get a radiator behind the rad support.
Going to custom make a set of Headers : That is why I put the two sets of Headman Headers up for trade.
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Guess picking the right parts to make it work can be very trying , wish I had photos to share but long since gone after 45 years ,a couple of divorces and a house fire you lose memories and most of your mind , know I made it work , with the excellent job that your doing to make it perfect any info will help from the past ,, what I do remember that the best damper (at least for 71 to 73 ) was the thin one , three bolt with a flat pulley , the one I use was off a dealer installed A/C that was cast iron and three groves , machined off two of them , the water pump after the mods done to it made the edge almost touched the water inlet on the pump after the bearing and flange was pushed to almost touch the seal inside the pump ,(or see it at the weep hole one the side , somehow the belt lined up and the back of the alternator just missed the back of the block , the radiator support brackets I put on backwards so I could make spacers to move it forward to the max to save space , the fan was a flex one with it bolted straght to the pump , guess some one will see this post and have a pile of 302 pumps and covers to see what is shorter , their is some company that did make a real short pump and pulley set up , dont know if they are still around but will check and post if they are to save time and gray hair pulling , later and stay safe , Blaine
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found it , its made by snow white industries , this looks like it useing the damper you have , its a two grove pulley but you can machine one off , they say it is two inchs shorter , hope this will help some , later Blaine
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Worked on the motor mounts.
I still have more welding to do after the engine comes out.
I also will be adding a small pipe that the bolt will go through& weld in
Welding is hard in tight areas. That will be corrected...
(https://i.imgur.com/ihZsdLj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EOIh8vj.jpg)
Motor center line to diff set up perfect. Had to off set the front of the engine 3/8" to the right , to get the proper alignment.
Car is level front to back & side to side.
Carb flange tilts back 3.5 degrees. Will be level when car is done.
Engine level as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/zG6YTZ1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xv7Xprp.jpg)
Next will be the trans mount. Waiting on a new mount from Ford. Then I'll make the cross member.
After that ,I'll make custom Headers - cross overs.
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New mount came in & I bolted it in place.
I have looked things over a number of times & I have the rest of the mount figured out.....just have to make it !
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Nice job on the engine mount brackits , hope you used a very common engine mount in case you need one in the future , I know the mustang II mounts are gold now and worst since they have a left and a right , also noticed your mount bolt is too short , Guess working on aircraft I see details like that , we always have the shank of the bolt in shear and use washer to space the nut to the threads and not have any load on the threads , looking at the perfect work your doing it should be art that could be hung on the wall to be admired .
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I didn't have longer bolts on hand.
Know what you mean though.
The rubber mounts are now hard to get now, from my searches for them.
But at my age I'm not worried about them ;D
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Finally had some rain days so I built a trans mount.
I still have welding & brackets to make & weld in......after the engine / trans are out of the car.
It is all supported by the mounts now.
Car is level & engine tilts back 3.5 degrees.
Alignment is perfect front to back for the engine / trans.
Had to off set the engine 3/8" to the right to get this perfect.
(https://i.imgur.com/z3PcgWe.jpg)
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With Tony getting back to work on his 351C car......may have motivated me to get back at this one.
Getting set up to try my hand at Headers building....Fi rst time !
I have two sets of Headman Headers. Tried to sell them & no one wanted to pay the price.
If had sold them, the money would have gone straight back into buying new pipe anyway.....
(https://i.imgur.com/pFozJaf.jpg)
Need to re-cover the white car & clean up a few parts/things & ....mig moved closer as well......
(https://i.imgur.com/Tg9t7qT.jpg)
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Right on. Your eyes must be better than mine cause I can’t weld anymore. Now I build tack and get the son-in-law to finish for me. My cataracts are bad for the light. Lol. We will have to get the cars together one day for sure
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Count me in as for the garage!😀 We should pool our loose change for the next powerball lotto so we all can get our garage Taj Mahal of our dreams!
Happy Motoring,
Dan
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Im in on the lotto for sure
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Last time to the optometrist he said I'd get cataracts in the near future.
For now I have a dozen sets of drug store glasses around the shop. Ones I have on right now are 1.75
I'll likely just tack weld them all together & take them to town & have a guy Tig weld them to finish. My Mig (and skills ?) may not be up for the task ? Shall see....
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I know that I am late in the game, but I couldn't open your photobucket link to view your project...ehem, and ummm, err, well to see the redhead as well. Is it because I do not have an account with Photobucket?
Your project sound interesting and I wish you all the success in the world! 😀
Happy Motoring,
Dan
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I know that I am late in the game, but I couldn't open your photobucket link to view your project...ehem, and ummm, err, well to see the redhead as well. Is it because I do not have an account with Photobucket?
Your project sound interesting and I wish you all the success in the world! 😀
Happy Motoring,
Dan
Redhead ?
I have not used Pbucket since they went to the give me all your money deal....lost a pile of pictures.
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pbucket has a ton of my photos that i cant access anymore .. they told me i was over my " free hosting " limit so i deleted a bunch of them and they still kept giving me the same message .. there was no hosting limit when i started ...
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Photo Bucket seems to be one of the biggest internet "bait & switch - kidnappings" of all time. People stored/linked all their photos for free and then one day all of a sudden you have to pay to access them. I heard $39.99 a month (but not confirmed). Sad way to run a business.
As a side note: There was a guy who wrote a book on the Sunbeam Tiger. It sold for somewhere between $35-$50 when released in 1994. The printer folded and destroyed all the plates. After the original 1,000 book order sold (and it took some time to do) he couldn't get it reprinted without considerable expense. And for whatever reason (known only to him) he will not allow digital copies to be made/sold. This has driven the typical price of the book up to about $1,500 and in one E-Bay bidding war up to $3,455! And it is common that only one book to becomes available in any given year So, regardless of the medium, rights and control over images seem a tricky situation and beware of what you are signing up for.
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Anyone ever have anything to do with/knowledge of Tri Y Headers ?
Every time I look at the engine bay, I'm having a hard time figuring out where four tubes will go.
Was going to do cross overs.....but now thinking I should go Tri Y.......
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Reason I ask is, I know I can mod a set to work in my car easy.
SDK-C5ZZ-9430-BK
Cheap & I wouldn't have to cut up the Headman Headers I have.
I could cut the Tri y below where they join & re-make the section from there to before the collectors.
Thoughts ?
I'd put the Headmans up for sale/trade , again.......
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I think as long as you give the pipes a good smooth merge they will work just fine,I have a pic I kept some where the looked like they would flow real good,I’ll dig it up and send it your way.
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Not the greatest picture of the above Headers.... (https://i.imgur.com/VCuOAsb.jpg)
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To me anyways how they blend in is kind of crude
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I typed into the google : Tri Y headers for SBF 7 the Summit site came up first.
Looked at them & they are Scott Drake (sp?) brand for 1970 Mustang.
Looking at the others may give a better view ?
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https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/all_headers/parts/12119FLT
Just called Mopac in Edmonton. None at their three stores. Any place would have to be ordered from the USA and take 6-8 weeks.
I may pick up a bunch of J tubes & make a set.....? Have to think on it.
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Most of the time I find I can find the same part number on eBay and they will get it shipped to me faster then waiting for the local shops to run an order. The Rad that I’m going to use in my build comes 100.00 cheaper off of eBay than the local shops
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Looked on e bay & all the ones I found cost more.....tried to order a set & they are not shipping out of the States right now.
Only option is to get someone down there to buy & I can pay them via Pay Pal.....I need two of thee as well. Tried to order them before & they wanted over $75.00 for shipping !
https://www.autokrafters.com/p-20619-turn-signal-lever-1973-86-ford-f-100-1967-86-bronco-66-70-fairlane-falcon-67-73-mustang-more-black-knob-d3tz-13305b.aspx
https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/all_headers/parts/12120FLT
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Although I am not in the market for headers, I just enjoy reading about your project. Anyway, thank you for including the link for the turn signal stalk as I was looking for one to replace my pitted one. It turned out to be on sale for nine bucks...shippi ng is a whole other story...I have no idea how the turn stalk link got imbedded with your headers info...but it proven quite helpful to me! This proves discoveries can be made through errors! LOL. Happy New Year to all...
Happy Motoring!
Dan
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Header problem solved ?
(https://i.imgur.com/JvYyBbY.jpg)
Winter in my shop...
(https://i.imgur.com/mvocdmc.jpg)
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It's not very aerodynamic, but that header arrangement leaves you a lot of room for a sweet turbo set up! ;D
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Hahaha. That’s a look like no other
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Score !
Two sets of NOS lower ball joints.......F REE !
(https://i.imgur.com/9UwHWEy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/I59tptU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PgtcrAF.jpg)
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Wow, nice score. Those are a rare find for sure.
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Joe Bayura Jr - left side. "Save as"
(https://i.imgur.com/cukjXUG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WEmIxUf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4VeBjn1.jpg)
Right side
(https://i.imgur.com/Awmlxzh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nQleW2j.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mrRTC0h.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/V8EoRYv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ccHEySH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9ClY7ah.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/larOw4S.jpg)
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Nice work! One of these days I need to tend to the area forward of the rear wheel opening. 98% of the welding I've done the past 25 years has been sheet metal. And I HATE it. The warping that elevates the metal, then it burns. Blowing holes in a thinned piece of the existing metal. The cold joint because you crank the power down because you're tired of blowing holes in the metal. Wishing you the best and hoping you are more skilled than me. Right now I'm putting floors in my Corvair station wagon. It is trying my patients. >:(
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For visable areas like those I'll cut & tack the pieces in place & get someone to tig weld them in.
I just have a mig.