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Author Topic: Blue 72  (Read 47030 times)

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Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #30 on: August 18, 2014, 10:48:25 PM »
The trick is to pick the right numbers, wife says she "always" picks the "right" numbers but they always refuse to pull the "right" numbers.. ;D ;D
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #31 on: September 12, 2014, 12:43:37 PM »
In for a penny , in for a pound... started collecting stuff for it.





Picked up a couple other small items as well.
The tray thingy for under the dash / on trans hump & a "sport" (?) mirror for the right side.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #32 on: November 10, 2014, 08:45:54 AM »
More parts slowly being collected.
Picked up a set of glass fenders.
NOS bumpers.
NOS grill with signal lenses.
4 like new windshields.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2015, 01:26:07 PM »
Two intakes I bought: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/library/Blue%2072/C90X%209424%20B?sort=3&page=1

Left click the first picture. It will come up bigger. Then use the next button (right side center of picture ?) to see the rest big.

Went through parts I have & put into bins for safe keeping.
I have most of the (new) suspension parts now.

I have a good start on the engine parts I'll need.

I have a set of 1969 closed chamber heads that will be sent out soon for (heavy) port work & big valves.

Have not decided on a solid roller cam of HYD yet.....

SFI cert on my bell for the B2 is now out dated......(I hate engine builders !), so likely use it here ? Have to see if it will work with the T-5 I have.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #34 on: July 27, 2015, 06:17:41 AM »
Over the last few days I've stripped almost everything off the car.
Moved Ugly Yellow out to the pole barn & tarp it up well. Due to my age (& money) , being a hatch back, I'll never get it going.

Blue is in the shop , next to the B2 car. Like trunk cars !

Trunk lid is good to go. Just a couple small surface rust areas to fix.

Hood will need to be split, blasted & epoxy primer. Put back together with some wet primer in the seams.

Offline dianne

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #35 on: July 27, 2015, 06:24:27 AM »
Over the last few days I've stripped almost everything off the car.
Moved Ugly Yellow out to the pole barn & tarp it up well. Due to my age (& money) , being a hatch back, I'll never get it going.

Blue is in the shop , next to the B2 car. Like trunk cars !

Trunk lid is good to go. Just a couple small surface rust areas to fix.

Hood will need to be split, blasted & epoxy primer. Put back together with some wet primer in the seams.

Ugly yellow????   :(

Well I love that blue on. Trunk model too! Sweet!
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Reeves1

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Offline dianne

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #37 on: July 28, 2015, 09:18:56 AM »
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #38 on: July 30, 2015, 07:28:50 AM »
All shocks gone.
Loosened all ball joints, pulling coil springs today.
Pull the rack.
Rad support corner braces have been removed - will be making my own to replace (or maybe pulling the ones off of Ugly Yellow).
Front left of inner fender needs about 2" of rusted out metal replace.
Right side is good. Sand blast & new corner support.
Cut the battery tray area out. Have to pick some new metal up to weld in.

Box under windshield cowl is good. Couple small surface rust areas are fixable without removing the cowl.

Will likely cut the firewall / trans tunnel today.

One small area of the right floor pan, about where the arch of a persons right foot would rest, will be cut out today. Maybe 8" x 8".

Will measure the swing arms (drum brakes on the front) and compare to the ones on Ugly (disk brakes).
If the same : good. If not, no big deal: use the ones off of Ugly.
I have a real nice set of disk spindles ready to go.

Dash. Here is a problem. Windshield seal was badly cracked up & leaking for years. Rusty.
Along the inside bottom if a support, spot welded in. Rust behind & under it.
The dash from Ugly is in real good shape.
Wanted to just swap & swap the VIN back to stay with the car.
Made calls (lots) and found the place that can help with this.
I'll be calling to find out costs......no rush. Be a while before needed.
Special rivets - sort of hex headed.

I have a new rotisserie this car will be going on, in time. Will save me tons of time / work when the final sand blasting & sub frames are installed etc.   

Offline oldkayaker

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #39 on: July 30, 2015, 08:37:38 AM »
You have been busy.  The 72 front suspension arms should be the same for both disc and drum brakes.  Your DMV may not be picky about the type of rivet for the VIN tag, suggest calling them.  A friend had his dash replaced but the repair shop forgot to transfer the VIN tag.  My friend made a plastic Dymo label VIN and it was accepted.

Edit: For the rivets try a image search on "ford vin tag rivets" using Google or Bing.  Click on image like your rivet and then click on "visit page" or "view page".  They can be expensive and out of country sourced.  Based on the lack of stores selling them, I am wondering if there is a law discouraging it.  Changed description to "rosette rivets" and found the link below.
http://parts.smartcarguide.com/rivet
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

Offline pinto_one

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #40 on: July 30, 2015, 09:41:14 AM »
Had to replace the dash on my 79 a few years ago because the owner before me made a mess trying to install a few more gauges , drilled out the rivets and got some steel pop rivets and put them in a small vise and use a small file to put the rosette look, buffed them with a wire wheel and pop them in, them I painted the whole dash to look new and installed it , looked factory
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

Offline dianne

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #41 on: July 30, 2015, 08:54:46 PM »
I have a new rotisserie this car will be going on, in time. Will save me tons of time / work when the final sand blasting & sub frames are installed etc.

I have rotisserie envy now :(
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #42 on: July 30, 2015, 09:40:19 PM »
I need one of them rotating devices too.. :(
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #43 on: July 31, 2015, 06:39:17 AM »
Got more started.
Strut arms on the blue one were very rusty under the frame rubbers. Took the ones off of Ugly. Good condition.
I'll be pulling the control arms & spindles off of Ugly as well. Main reason, is so I can restore them, powder coated & all new bushings etc & put away. They will be ready when needed. It also lets me roll the car out of the shop for grinding, sand blasting etc. with the originals in place.

Removed the coil springs. 9 1/2" 2x4s put in to hold the front end up.

Cut what was needed out of the fire wall & trans tunnel for (another) V8 swap !

I have most of what I'll need for a 331 roller / stroker for this car. Including a set of NOS Headman Headers. I'll have those ceramic coated, inside & out.
I also have a WC T-5 O'll have re-built with strong parts.
I also picked up a 9" diff housing for this project. It will get narrowed , big axles etc. Likely be in the 4:11 range of gears. Will be OK on the street with a 5th gear.

The right door is junk (because I have others in good shape).
Going to "practice" splitting this door for a look see. Going to see what will be required to pull the crash bars out, to help lighten the car.

I have two sets of fiberglass fenders. One set very light - will go on this car.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #44 on: July 31, 2015, 06:45:12 AM »
How fast this car gets done depends on work.
Between the low & Global oil prices & the NDP getting in, the whole oil & gas sector has been slowing down.
Jobs are getting hard to find & it's predicted to get much worse.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #45 on: August 16, 2015, 05:32:15 AM »
Going to be slow going. Only times I can work on it is during slow times, like xmas, spring break etc.

Fire wall / trans tunnel cut out. Will cut a new hole for the wire harness after it's all welded back together.
I'll raise the lower rad hole then as well.






Battery tray area had rot. Cut out. Still need to pick up new metal to replace all that was cut out of the car.



Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #46 on: August 16, 2015, 05:42:30 AM »
In the shot of interior you can see (surface) rust in the wheel well seam. All that will get sand blasted & welded, inside & out.
No more leak(s) and no need for seam sealer.

The floor seams that go from the rockers to trans tunnel have rust, but not through.
They will get cut out & replaced with a thicker metal (have to check on measurements for cage attachments specs for NHRA).
Going to build torque boxes, which will double for mounting locations for the cage.

Likely put it on the rotisserie this xmas , for all the blasting & epoxy primer etc.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #47 on: August 26, 2015, 05:26:26 AM »
Had a few days at home so got some welding done.
Sand blasted the edges of the welding areas inside & out for clean welds.
Changing gas from co2/argon to straight argon before welding next. Mixed gas plugs my lungs up bad for days. Cannot breath 4 - 7 days !



I put tape on the approximate locations of sub frames & cage plate areas.
I want to remove the seam under the heel location. So the plate is (a bit thicker) .125 and will be 6" x about 13". Will weld to floor, sub frame & rocker. A 2" x 6" plate also gets welded to the rocker & floor plates.
Will not be building torque boxes. Not enough front sub frame below the floor pan to bother with them.



Outside plates behind the seat will attach to the sub frames & rockers.





Behind the seat the center 2 tubes will be welded to the sub frames, as well as the 2 going back to the trunk area.
I'll get a guy I know in Calgary to do the cage, to make sure to will pass tech.

Offline Pinto5.0

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #48 on: August 30, 2015, 10:18:25 AM »
Going to be slow going. Only times I can work on it is during slow times, like xmas, spring break etc.

Thank god I found a self storage that I can work in or nothing would be getting done on my cars for another year or two. This Tuesday my new 18x40 garage goes up which means I can actually get organized & have room to work at home.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

Offline dianne

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #49 on: September 02, 2015, 06:46:40 AM »
You're showing some awesome love to that car Reeves!!!
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #50 on: September 02, 2015, 09:00:11 PM »
Actually more excited about this one than the B2 car.
Building this one from scratch is much more interesting, and fun.

B2 car is "tainted" ......due to the engine builds, and time lost on what should have been a 6 month upgrade. Lost 4 years on it. So far.

Offline dianne

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #51 on: September 03, 2015, 07:10:45 AM »
Actually more excited about this one than the B2 car.
Building this one from scratch is much more interesting, and fun.

B2 car is "tainted" ......due to the engine builds, and time lost on what should have been a 6 month upgrade. Lost 4 years on it. So far.

Yeah, I honestly can understand that! When I do one from scratch it's always better than buying one, more rewarding and fun!
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #52 on: September 11, 2015, 08:51:42 PM »
Had a few days off & a few rain days off. Got some get ready for snow stuff at home done, as well as some work on the car.

Drivers side .125" plate is in. Still have to weld in the 6" x 2" plate on the rocker.
Although NHRA only requires a 6" x 6" plate for the cage, I wanted it to extend beyond that to replace the seam with rust & because I'm going to build torque boxes. Just because  ;D
It is also welded to the OEM frame rails.
I have a small patch to do at the top left of this plate. Will be done with thinner metal.




Also worked on the right side. Got the .125 plate in. Also three thinner metal sections to replace rusted areas. Some "gob" welds below the 3.5" 4" plate is to weld up a few small rust through spots.
Still have to weld in the 6" x 2" rocker plate.




All will be welded from under the car as well......when it goes on the rotisserie. Not sure when now......decid ed to do a lot more work / repairs than originally planned  :o
Again, the primer is only to help prevent rust from starting till it goes for the full blasting.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #53 on: September 12, 2015, 12:50:58 AM »
Looks like your making great progress. I have the same plans for my floor pans, then more frame bracing. I can't get mine on a rotisserie, but I have a karmann ghia about to go up on it. Not mine, just a friends project.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #54 on: September 20, 2015, 11:36:29 AM »
More time off = more done on the car.

Finished the front cage mount areas. Welded all inside seams on the trans tunnel. Repair / replace rust areas.




Front left rad support / inner fender had some rust issues.



Cut it out & replaced with new metal. 100 % welded seams.






The corner supports were rusted through. Made new ones. Got the left side done.






Rad support seams welded inside & out.
All work areas were sand blasted first.
Spray with primer to help prevent rust as the project goes along, till it goes for final blasting.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #55 on: September 20, 2015, 11:57:23 AM »
How big of a cage are you putting in? Are you chopping thru your dash for full cage or just lower side bars to the front mounting areas you installed? I'm looking at doing this project too.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #56 on: September 20, 2015, 03:16:43 PM »
Aiming for an 8.5 cert cage & through the dash.
Want to keep the front bars as close to the front as I can.
Cage will be built by a guy in Calgary.
Same guy that will build my 9" diff.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #57 on: September 21, 2015, 09:53:54 AM »
I'm not familiar with how they are graded, I just know I want to get a good one in mine too, for street use.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #58 on: September 21, 2015, 11:26:12 AM »
For street & up to a 10 second 1/4 all you would need is a 6 point behind the seats - like my white car.
(I'm over building this blue one)

Floor plates have to be 6" x 6" and .125 thick. Rocker plates 6" x 2".

Google the newest NHRA rules. Easy down load. Keep as a pdf. I printed mine out.

Offline dianne

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Re: Blue 72
« Reply #59 on: September 21, 2015, 10:28:01 PM »
Aiming for an 8.5 cert cage & through the dash.
Want to keep the front bars as close to the front as I can.
Cage will be built by a guy in Calgary.
Same guy that will build my 9" diff.

The cage will be expensive. Are the tracks up there like the ones in the US? We have to have certain things at some seconds. I'm going to be building a 400 Stroker. Still learning, it's a LOT different than it was in the 70s for certain.

Do you have a design for the cage?
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied