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Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #90 on: October 21, 2018, 11:20:47 AM »
For the last half year Iíve been using Donkey as a car without spending any extra money on it.
Come fall, I did think that it was time for a service, new oil,  filter, brake fluid etc.
All went well except for a stuck brake bleeder and a loose grease nipple on the left front side.
So the caliper had to come off, used lots of WD40, put a nail in the stuck bleeder to prevent it from collapsing and with the help of a pipe wrench managed to get it out in one piece.  New brake bleeder was Dorman 13901.
That was one problem fixed, then the other one; I enlarged the grease nipple hole, cut new thread and fitted a larger nipple.
I had some time to spare so decided to pull out the chairs and rubber mats and check out the floors and maybe test fit Blaineís carpet. As this required making holes in the carpet for seat belts, handbrake and shifter, and not having a Torx T50 bit lying around for removing the seat belts I decided that this would have to wait. I also discovered two places in the floor pan that will require a small patch welded in. Moisture and time will eventually take their toll on everything, and the fact that there is a lot of kit used around the front windscreen, and the original carpet being replaced somewhere in the past  by a few pieces of rubber mat,  indicates previous moisture problems.
This car does have an old rust prevention undercoating, which has helped it staying in good condition for a long time,  but itís past its prime now and will need removing before fixing the floor.
Another nice job for maybe next spring, the seats arenít falling through the floors yet!

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #91 on: December 27, 2018, 02:35:23 PM »
My European Pinto 2.0 EFI is run by  a Ford EECIV ecu, similar to the ones in loads of eighties and nineties American Fordís, not with the same software and components of course.
As I am contemplating to get a newer aftermarket ecu somewhere in the future, and I had been thinking about a step by step reversible transition, I went searching for an extra EECIV connector, so I wouldnít have to hack up my original Scorpio injection harness.
The connectors are available new on ebay, but most without terminals, or very pricey.
I found a cheap complete Focus ecu at the scrappy, but then came the real issue, how to get 60 pins desoldered from the PCB. I read all sorts of info on forums but nothing worked, gas torch or heat gun are only good for destroying the lot. Desoldering with a soldering station didnít work, the heat seemed to flow away in the circuit board, the solder wouldnít melt. Buying a real desoldering station for this one job was a step too far for me.
I ended up grinding away the PCB around every single one of the sixty pins with a Dremel, after that the heat of the soldering iron was enough to loosen the small ďdiamondsĒ left around the pins.
Now with an extra connector, I could even make a breakout box like this guy did: http://www.merkurclub.com/kizerweb/scorpio/misc/tools/breakout.htm
That way I could hook up anything to the existing harness for testing purposes.

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #92 on: January 12, 2019, 02:15:02 PM »
Dťjŗ vu? No, I just did it again, couldnít resist picking up this Ford Maverick 8 inch axle as a backup for my 8 inch Mustang II rear end. I know it isnít as wide, and the perches are in the wrong place, and itís a 5-lug, but in reality, I just got it for the diff.  To be able to work on one while driving around with the other one.  These things donít grow on trees around here, and there are some hoarders around who ask crazy prices, so when one pops up, you go for it.
This one was just south of Bruges in Belgium, 3 hour round trip, Donkey happy all the way.
Fordification tag decoding for WDW-AA tag gives a 2.79 ratio 75-77 Maverick, seems correct.
Weíve had the discussion about the ideal gear ratio here before, but at the moment Iím certain 3.40 is to tall for my 195/65/15 winter tires. I checked what the gear ratio was on the Scorpio that supplied my drivetrain, and that was a 3.92 (with factory 185/70/14 tires)!
I think Iím going to aim for a 3.8 ring and pinion, which combined with the desired 195/55/15 summer tires gets me as close as possible to the original setup.
Wittsend, can you check my calculations????
And for all you folks with an eye for detail, yes the tailgate is held up with a broomstick, havenít found a solution for the broken left tailgate spring yet.  If someone has a set of these lying about,  please send me a PM.

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #93 on: January 14, 2019, 03:01:10 PM »
Started disassembly of the Maverick  rear end, so far one completely shot right axle bearing and oil seal, axles are good, just goes to show that pieces of old iron like these can never be trusted to be able to be put in action immediately.
Taking it apart makes it easier to handle the different parts,  but there is a higher risk of not finding all the bits when you need them to come together.

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #94 on: January 16, 2019, 10:21:16 AM »
Finished taking apart the rear end, no further surprises, 2.79 ring and pinion like new.

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #95 on: October 23, 2019, 12:35:59 PM »
Yes, Donkey is still around!
In for some necessary repairs and updates, passenger floor needs some patches welded in, but before that I have to tackle a leaking heater core problem (which could have attributed to the floor rot), so out with the heater housing.
Hands up everyone who has a brand new heater core in the box, but is postponing creeping under the dash until the end of time. I know, it is no fun.
It took me half a day, 72 Ford Car Shop Manual wasnít 100% helpful, but with some patience, the bugger came out. Iíll report on further dissection.
As I had to drain the coolant any way, I pulled the radiator and fan to get access to the crank pulley, going to try to fit one with a trigger wheel.

Offline dga57

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #96 on: October 24, 2019, 08:37:01 AM »
Welcome back after a nine month hiatus!!!  You were missed!

Dwayne :)
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Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #97 on: October 24, 2019, 03:01:14 PM »
Thanks Dwayne, and sorry for the long silence, but the car just keeps going, what can I do?
Well, back to the heater core, there was an uninhabited mice nest on it, had to clear that first.
When opened up, the leaking radiator was obvious. What I also found was that the door that regulates cold or warm air coming in must have been covered with some kind of foam, of which most has crumbled away after 47 years, this probably means that it wonít shut of either passage way positively, so no 100% cold or 100% warm setting.  Have to think about a solution for that.

Offline dga57

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #98 on: October 24, 2019, 06:00:05 PM »
Those pesky mice do find a way into most any space, don't they? ::) >:(
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Offline Wittsend

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #99 on: October 25, 2019, 11:10:55 AM »
Uggg..., I had Rat Wiz trickle down between the cylinder barrel and the cylinder head on my Corvair. The urine reacts with the aluminum and forms a grout like substance fortified with Super Glue! In the image below it is hard to see where the cast iron ends and the aluminum begins. No penetrating oil, heat, or hard whacks from a dead blow hammer is even giving a hint of freeing the parts!


Regarding the foam on the heater flap; I used closed cell foam that is often used in packaging. I believe this was from a wrapper for a motherboard. I simply used spray contact adhesive to hold the foam in place. As best I recall I did both sides.

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #100 on: October 25, 2019, 02:38:37 PM »
Good one that, Wittsend! Yes, I think it should go on both sides, I'll do something like you did.

Rat Wiz as base component for a new line of (metal) adhesives, now that's an idea...

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #101 on: October 26, 2019, 01:41:51 PM »
One small patch done, larger one is next.
This isn't a concours car, functional is the name of the game here.

Offline Wittsend

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #102 on: October 26, 2019, 02:34:11 PM »
You might consider POR 15 (or similar product) on those floors. I used it with their mesh (a thin fiberglass sheet) not unlike what hobby stores sell for model planes.  I'll include below a few pictures of how bad the floors were on my Studebaker Daytona and the end results with the mesh.

  They say you can just flake off the loose rust and paint, but I sandblasted, treated with Phosphoric Acid THEN applied the POR 15 and in most cases put the mesh on both sides. It has been at least 7 years now and the floors look as good as the finished picture.

Offline SpaceCowboy1979

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #103 on: October 26, 2019, 03:11:43 PM »
Where did you get the POR 15

Offline Wittsend

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #104 on: October 26, 2019, 03:22:53 PM »
Just Google POR 15 to see where it might be available in Europe..., if at all.  That said here in the USA there are some brick & mortar stores that carry it, but it is available on line at MANY places.  In the past I have actually purchased it directly from POR-15. Read up about it because you have to follow their procedure.

Offline SpaceCowboy1979

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #105 on: October 26, 2019, 04:26:20 PM »
Thanks


Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #106 on: October 30, 2019, 04:29:36 PM »
The large patch is in too, sorry, no real floor patch panel, just a flat plate.
I also removed the fender antenna and radio, radio didnít work properly no more after ditching the voltage regulator , anti noise thingy was next to the voltage regulator, never bothered to correct that issue.
So as an extra some small fender holes to weld up. Image shows old magnets  holding circle in place before welding.
Rockauto heater core (yes, already had it for some years) is a  good match, Iíll test it for leaks before putting the heater box back in the car. Still have to put foam on the door.
I got myself a POR15 starter kit from the one supplier we seem to have here in the Netherlands, Iíll read the instructions carefully before making a mess Wittsend!

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #107 on: November 09, 2019, 01:45:51 PM »
New heater core is in the housing, new foam on the cold/hot air door, ready to close the box and put it back under the dash.  POR15 on the welded in plates and surrounding surface rust areas. After that I sprayed it over on the inside with white paint, on the outside with underbody coating.
And last but not least, with the heater core fixed,  Iím putting in the carpet! It was a long wait Blaine and Robert, but here it is!

Offline dga57

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #108 on: November 10, 2019, 07:20:15 PM »
Looks good!!!


Dwayne :)
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Offline pinto_one

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #109 on: November 11, 2019, 11:34:12 AM »
getting there quickly now , did you check for leaks around the windsheld and cowl area , they are the main reasons for rusty floors , the windsheld gaskets dry up and start leaking water straght to the floors , those you can buy now on e-bay , and last on your rear ratio are you sticking with the 3.40 ?  the 2.79 is kind of tall for overdrive of the T-9 you got , it will work out and the carpit looks great , it make the car much quiet , mine I brought and installed extra insolation in mine , hardly any road nosie now , and on the rear spring I wonder if a 76 wagon spring could be the same , have one and later I can pull and mesure to check it out , later Blaine
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

Offline 72DutchWagon

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #110 on: November 11, 2019, 02:46:27 PM »
Blaine, windshield and cowl must have been troublesome in the past, someone stuffed all the seams and gasket full of sealant which still seems to work for the moment. Major problem now was the leaking heater core.
Donkey is always sleeping inside in a well ventilated lock up, so not too many humidity problems.
I am still running the 3.40, and would actually rather try a 3.55 or even 3.80, because the Scorpio I got the engine and T9 from had a factory 3.92 ratio.
The 2.79 was only mentioned because it came in my backup Maverick pumpkin, rest assured, no way Iím putting that behind a manual gearbox.
I already owe you too many thanks, but thanks again for wanting to check out the tailgate spring, take your time!

Offline SpaceCowboy1979

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #111 on: November 11, 2019, 03:13:57 PM »
On all three of my pinto wagons
The leaks were coming from holes on both sides where
The fresh air duct work connects to air channel.    air comes
In the grill at the bottom of windshield exterior of car
Then enters this channel lots of debris collect here
Gets wet then causes corrosion   
Could very well make it look like windshield and or
Heater core leak.
I would  check this before reinstalling your heating unit
You may want to remove hood with the hinge and the boots to get
A good look
I put a couple of light bulbs inside this area too get a good look
Then work on

Offline pinto_one

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Re: 72 DutchWagon rolling resto
« Reply #112 on: November 12, 2019, 07:08:46 AM »
great that you keep it inside , I do the same with mine to make it last for my liftime , for gearing I do have a New set of rare 4.11 gears for the stock 6 3/4 pinto rear still in the box I have had forever ,
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0