Yep, just get one for you're shaft thread size.

Take the chuck off and measure the shaft , Put a key in the chuck and whack it with a hammer it should pop off..

Don't know about that one, my old B&D is about 30yrs old, lol..

I got a call for an interview tomorrow. It is for a job I had written off, I had applied for it about a month ago. So maybe things are picking up in the job front. Although until I get an offer it won't have picked up enough. 

Good luck with the interview!  Hope it all works out!

Dwayne

Thanks.
The interview went well. I am one of 5 people they are interviewing, there is just one more to go. I should hear something by Friday. Would be a good place to work.

Problem is now I am tired out and need a nap or at least a lay down before I can go try out the new drill.

Russ

Almost done with the battery/storage box frame. The new drill works well so far. It has a LOT more torque than the other. The bit grabbed and I almost went flying.  Next time I will be ready. No more toy drill. 

Got it primered. I want to paint it even though it won't show. Just have to decide if it is worth the money right now. And the wait. Not supposed to recoat over the primer for 24 hours. Being in Phoenix normally I could cut that down, but today is pretty cool for here and high humidity. Not exactly oven like conditions. 

I used Rustoleum heavy rust primer, the brush on type. I would rather use spray cans, but that gets expensive fast. I will probably have to use the brush on for the color as well. Only $8 a quart, not too bad even for me. The spray cans are like $6 or so and don't cover as much. I guess I will paint it black, that way if any shows after I am done it won't stand out, going to be a black interior. I think. Either that or a dark gray/black combo.

I was looking at the battery tray area from the outer side. I think I am going to just cut out all of the tray area, so I can just use a flat piece of steel to patch it. Remove all the part that "sticks out" into the wheel well area, if that makes it clearer. Sucks that the battery corrosion ruined it. But it is ruined, it isn't worth repairing it back to stock for me since I won't be using that for the battery.

Still no word from either of the two interviews yet. I'm not holding my breath.

Thanks,
Russ

I think I got a little carried away.
Pictures later tonight.
Russ

Here's the last couple of pictures for now. I'll see if I can get better ones during daylight tomorrow.

I took everything off that is bolted on except for the suspension and brakes. Even the steering column, clutch and throttle cables. OOPS, I just remembered I haven't taken the windshield washer squirters off yet. I meant to earlier, I forgot to grab a phillips screwdriver.

I really don't want to mess with the brake lines, will have to see how it goes. Suspension/frame I am going to try to wait on until I have new parts to put on. But then again I said early on that I wasn't going to take this car apart. 

thanks,
Russ

Keep looking and don't give up on the job front! More aggressive applicants, for me anyway, are the ones I look at the most and put a lot of weight on.

I forced myself to go out and do a little.

I wire wheeled the passenger side inner fender, just the engine side. Got it primered. And I painted the battery/storage box frame. I can't decide if I am going to paint the underneath part of it or just go ahead and mount it. I am thinking just mount it, so at least I can point to something and say it is finished. I have the wood and hinges for the lid, so once the frame is mounted that will be the next step. I really need to get something completed just for my sanity. 

I still need to get that last bit of the battery tray piece off. I just didn't feel up to being destructive right now. No rush, the car certainly isn't going anywhere any time soon. 

They both look a lot better in pictures than they do in person. Although I did learn a bit, I was trying to make the paint go to far. It works better if I just do a small area with a lot of paint instead of trying to make that same amount cover a larger area. I would really be better with a spray can, but I need to learn to do it this way. Using cheap foam brushes, which isn't helping I am sure. I'll check out both tomorrow after they have fully dried and see how they turned out. The fender well actually doesn't look too bad now, it is much better than the frame was after I primered it, so I am getting there. 

Thanks,
Russ

Thanks.

I am really hoping to get it done this weekend so I can put it all back together. I obviously won't be able to get it completely done until I can get some metal to replace what I cut out, and I want to try to make the repair on the driver's side look better. But that can always be done later. I just need to not let the car sit like this very long. Too depressing. Plus too much of a risk of me forgetting how to put it back together. 

The new drill is holding up so far. But the wire wheeling is harder than I thought. That is why I only got the one panel done today. Hopefully I can get an earlier start tomorrow, we (meaning my wife  )don't have any other plans that I know of.

Russ

Well, I got a little done today. I primered the front side of the radiator support.

But I actually got better news. 

First, my car guy friend brought over my old compressor I had totally forgotten about. 
I had given it to him around 11 years ago when I bought a big vertical one. He never really used it and just had it in his storage shed. It is a CH 3.5 horse 11gallon. It still works, but it seemed to get really hot. So I will have to see if it lasts. I don't remember if it needs oil or anything else. Don't have the manual, maybe I can find it online. One real problem I can fix right away is that the plug is tarnished. I need to find my emery cloth and clean that up. That could be why it is getting hot, working too hard with too little current.
And I kept my air tools when we moved from Ohio. So I have an air ratchet, an impact wrench, and I think a sander. Plus lots of compressor rated sockets. Not the highest quality, almost all is CH stuff. But not that bad either. 

Second, I got a GM alternator. 
l have been wanting a CS 130 or 144, but didn't have the money to get one. I have the hook up kit for this left over from the Lemans, which is the only real reason I didn't go with a Ford 3G.

Even used on CL they have been out of my price range.
 Last night for some reason I checked out an ad that said 3800 stuff. Turns out the guy had an alternator from a 96 Pontiac Bonneville and only wanted $5. So this afternoon off to Mesa we went. I am not absolutely sure, but according to what I have found online this is a CS 130. External cooling fan eliminates the 144 according to everything I have read.

One of the things I do is read the CL ads just in case, and for window shopping. Keeps me busy sometimes. 

It is possible that it could be a CS 121( I think that is the third option), but even that will work.

I am going to try to find out for sure, I have a few websites saved about this. I never thought I would find one so cheap.  It is supposed to be good with 80K miles, but even if it isn't it will work as a mockup for the mounting. And be a core charge. But unless it is just totally shot, I am going to do the Iceberg modification to it, either the standard or the 140Amp version, both are relatively inexpensive. Did I mention I only paid $5?

Mentally I am doing the happy dance. 

Thanks,
Russ

Great score on that alternator (and air compressor too, for that matter) - maybe things are starting to turn around for you! Hope so anyway!


Dwayne

Thanks.

Now I am scared to go out, something is liable to fall out of the sky and hit me. Not kill, just maim. 

It looks like the alternator is a 140A unit. At least all of the replacement ones I have found online are rated at that for that car. But even if it is just 120A I am very happy.

Russ

Sounds like a pinched nerve, I have the same thing in one foot it's from sciatic nerve in a once screwed up back, my foot is half asleep all the time very irritating..

Am I this confused, or is someone else, or are these cars really so different between certain years?
I have a 74 wagon with the 6.75 rear, if that may make a difference. Came with the 2.0L from the factory(but is long gone now).

I was reading a 4 year old post about wagon shocks, since I have a wagon. 
the last post was from someone who said he was using 1977 Nova shocks on his 75 wagon. Well, the 77 Nova uses this type of shock
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/KYB-Gas-a-Just-Shock-Strut-Rear/1977-Chevrolet-Nova/_/N-inbleZ8oxxx?itemIdentifier=754887_6880_7413_
that has Upper Mount Type:    Eyelet with slotted barpin Lower Mount Type:    Eyelet with bushing and metal sleeve.
I went out and got under the rear of the car for pretty much the first time, other than a quick glance at the rear axle early on. My car certainly does not use that type of shock. It uses the "stud" type at both ends.

BTW, I have air shocks. I did not know that until now. But the lines are cut, so I have no idea if they still work. But that makes sense with the bumper hitch it has. As far as I could see with the flashlight, it is all pretty clean and solid under there. 

I also found out that there is a crossmember going across the car right where I put the rear most piece of my battery/storage box frame. I had drilled 5/16th holes to bolt that down. I had looked just enough to make sure I wasn't going to hit the tank.
This is the same place that the factory folding seat hinge went( the rear most piece that goes between the rear fender wells), I was using those 4 larger holes, 2 per side. Now I see why sheet metal screws were used from the factory. grrrrr. Guess I will have to default to my other idea of using L brackets to attach that 2x2 tube to the floor. I want it bolted, not screwed. Enough of what I do ends up screwed. 

I thought these cars didn't have a rear subframe, maybe technically there isn't one, but there sure is enough support to be close.

Thanks,
Russ