PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => Your Project => Topic started by: dianne on January 25, 2015, 01:02:36 PM
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OK, I picked up a 2.3 EFI Mustang engine from a 1987. This engine should work I think. I'm getting lots with it including the engine mounts, the new components like compressor and all A/C stuff. The guy did a 5.0 swap on it so he kept the computer and everything, so I am getting it all including the auto transmission.
So what's next here, car comes back in two weeks. What will I need for the car other than the frame mounts.
Thanks everyone.
There was nothing wrong with the 2.0, but I like the idea of a modern engine in the Pinto :D If anyone needs one let me know. Have 2 auto transmissions for it also.
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thats great, but I would do it before you paint the car, and will get more mpg also with the efi , you just need to change the oil pan on the engine and cut off the old engine mount on the body and use 74 up body mount on the car,get some of the guy here to send you some photos of there,s , and is the automatic a over drive , even better , you will have to use the early 74 up A/C brackets for your compressor , done that before , at least here you do not have to do any R & D , here we call it Robb and Dupaicate :o
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More info, forgot to tell you that for the 2..3 engine you have to use the 74 up L&R mounts , 2.3 only , the body engine mounts, 74 up are bolt on , you will have to use the top two bolt holes and weld in the rest, the side rails are wider on newer pintos,, so guys post some photos for Dianne to see ,
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thats great, but I would do it before you paint the car, and will get more mpg also with the efi , you just need to change the oil pan on the engine and cut off the old engine mount on the body and use 74 up body mount on the car,get some of the guy here to send you some photos of there,s , and is the automatic a over drive , even better , you will have to use the early 74 up A/C brackets for your compressor , done that before , at least here you do not have to do any R & D , here we call it Robb and Dupaicate :o
I have the factory ones from the 73 2.0, but those are not using the same belts. 74 and up Mustang? This is an 87 :)
The guy I bought it from is dropping it off tomorrow. The car is already in the auto body shop :( I know I know... LOL
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More info, forgot to tell you that for the 2..3 engine you have to use the 74 up L&R mounts , 2.3 only , the body engine mounts, 74 up are bolt on , you will have to use the top two bolt holes and weld in the rest, the side rails are wider on newer pintos,, so guys post some photos for Dianne to see ,
I'll need to start searching for parts. This was a heck of a deal, only $300.00 for it all and low miles. We'll still do an engine refresh on it. Is that transmission OK do you know?
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Will these work for this swap?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-FORD-PINTO-2-3L-4-SPEED-4-CYL-ENGINE-BRACKETS-LOT-1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-/121426613729?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c459715e1&vxp=mtr
I can't tell if everything is there or not...
Dianne
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Well that is the passenger side, you could ask the seller a question on e-bay, see if he has the drivers side, if he does tell him to include it with the rest and its a deal, when the back yard drys out from all the rain I can go to my shed and take some photos for you, got one with the engine out and one with the engine in to give you a idea how they go, none of the 2.0 stuff will work, also maybe they can remove the front fenders and hood and paint them off, reinstall them after you have the engine up and running, do the a few times and it's hell on the paint, 😣
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Well that is the passenger side, you could ask the seller a question on e-bay, see if he has the drivers side, if he does tell him to include it with the rest and its a deal, when the back yard drys out from all the rain I can go to my shed and take some photos for you, got one with the engine out and one with the engine in to give you a idea how they go, none of the 2.0 stuff will work, also maybe they can remove the front fenders and hood and paint them off, reinstall them after you have the engine up and running, do the a few times and it's hell on the paint, 😣
Thanks, sent it off. I'm sending the mechanics helper out tomorrow to see if he can find one. I need to have him pull the bottom radiator holder off a Mustang II. I just want my cars now :) LOL
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Great, what trans is on the efi 2.3 ? , if it is a A4LD, give Rebolting73 a shout for photos on his rear trans mount, he also has the 2.3 in a 73 with the over drive, he done a nice job , if you have it use it, with change the way the car is on the hwy, will try to get the photos for you tomorrow,if I don't slip and bust my butt in the mud 😜
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Thanks bunches!
I'm pretty excited :-) I have to think about seats, I want them black with yellow, but something more comfortable. Do you know what seats are good for these and are comfortable? Not too modern looking, but comfortable also. I'm old, so comfort is king! LOL
They should be able to fabricate something. I'm having Aaron and Alex look. Alex welds and does transmissions. So tomorrow I'll know what it has with it. It's auto like mine. I think I'll need a new shifter though, we'll see. Aaron will refresh the motor and Alex can fabricate what he needs. These guys, Matt also, are skilled. They are doing a 6 to 8 on a Jeep, first in the valley to do the swap. Wiring is hard because a lot of splicing on the harness.
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Same here with old butt getting old and want a good seat to fit the wrinkles on the back side, if you are going to redo the inside to match you should fid a good seat guy that is good with cutting new foam for the old seats , the foam I use on aircraft is called temper foam, we replace the 50 plus year old foam with this stuff, the heat from your body makes it soft in spots and fit the wrinkles on your butt, nice when you sit for hours in one spot flying along , also you can make the seats look stock but have the feel of a high end car, ??? 8)
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That's what I want :D I am going to do the seats in black and yellow :)
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Hey Dianne, here are the photos of the mount I took for you
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guess I will have to send a photo at a time, it will only let me send one at a time
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this is the right engine mount on the engine , and also you have to have the front sump oil pan, the efi engine in the fox body is in the rear
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If you need a oil pan let me know I have one and also I have extra brackets to mount the A/C compressor to the engine if you want them, it will fit the stock compressor and lines you have now, (done it before ) so you can still have A/C , You might as will drive cool and be cool at the same time driving you pinto 8), this photo is looking down on the left side mount with the engine installed , hope this helps , later Blaine
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Do we need another oil pan? I want it if I need it!
Aaron, you should see this all now...
Dianne
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I need all the mounts...
Thanks,
Dianne
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I will look this weekend to see if I have any extra mounts in my stash of pinto parts, have to look in the back of the parts car to see if I can find the pick up tube to go with the oil pan, and anyone reading this post that has a 71 to 73 pinto and has the 2.3 swapped into them send Dianne some photos so her guys and get the idea how to do it, as said a picture is a thousand words (or hours saved in our case ) , and once you put a hole in metal it is hard to take it back , ask me how I know :o
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Thanks so much again for the help. Aaron has read this this morning. The engine will be there any day now, maybe this evening.
I do want the oil pan and any of the parts you have there and let me know. We are going to do an engine refresh on the motor, so all gaskets will be replaced :)
Thanks again,
Dianne
PS - Aaron and the crew will NOT scratch any paint ;)
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Great on not scratching the paint, but let them know that you have whips and chains on standby , ;D
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Great on not scratching the paint, but let them know that you have whips and chains on standby , ;D
Aaron's wife is my admin assistant. She'll beat him to a pulp if he scratches that new yellow paint!
LOL
This is the engine.
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great, I managed to dig some before it go to dark, got both side rail mounts, and one engine mount, have to dig the the other stash places for the other , also got all the brackets and adjustment pulley for the A/C, could not see much of the front of the engine , does it have V belts, if not I have dig up some pulleys for you , Blaine
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great, I managed to dig some before it go to dark, got both side rail mounts, and one engine mount, have to dig the the other stash places for the other , also got all the brackets and adjustment pulley for the A/C, could not see much of the front of the engine , does it have V belts, if not I have dig up some pulleys for you , Blaine
I'll take some pictures tomorrow :) That's awesome! This is pretty cool and I'm excited as all heck!!! LOL
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I used all the mustang accessories on my 91 2.3 swap into my 74....includin g the ac compressor and internally regulated alternator... Kept the serpentine belt system as well. It looks nice and modern and works very well.
You will need a front sump oil pan, with the pickup tube and the dipstick and its tube. You may have to drill the hole for the pickup tube in the block and plug the old hole (I did with my 91, but your 87 might have the hole there still, not sure)
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This is going into a 73, also got the stock compressor, which is v belt , the serpentine is hard to find and $$$$,for that compressor (unless you got one to donate )
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This is going into a 73, also got the stock compressor, which is v belt , the serpentine is hard to find and $$$$,for that compressor (unless you got one to donate )
I have most of the orginial AC stuff for the factory air. I need the stuff for the new setup. I want to keep the serpentine belts also!
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I used all the mustang accessories on my 91 2.3 swap into my 74....includin g the ac compressor and internally regulated alternator... Kept the serpentine belt system as well. It looks nice and modern and works very well.
You will need a front sump oil pan, with the pickup tube and the dipstick and its tube. You may have to drill the hole for the pickup tube in the block and plug the old hole (I did with my 91, but your 87 might have the hole there still, not sure)
Well OK, Aaron, Matt, and Alex, let's take a look at this and see what we need to do. I want all the new stuff in the Pinto :) The modern look in the Pinto would be cool!
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just to let you know I found the other engine mount this morning , still have to find the oil pump pick up tube and two front springs , I have only seen one compressor like yours with the serpentine clutch, long ago, a few years ago looked for one and they were pricey $$$ guess when you get the A/C brackets from me you could find one to test the fit and see if the belt will line up with the pulley on the engine, let you know when I dig up the rest so I can box this up and send it all to you , so around Monday or Tuesday at the latest , :D
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just to let you know I found the other engine mount this morning , still have to find the oil pump pick up tube and two front springs , I have only seen one compressor like yours with the serpentine clutch, long ago, a few years ago looked for one and they were pricey $$$ guess when you get the A/C brackets from me you could find one to test the fit and see if the belt will line up with the pulley on the engine, let you know when I dig up the rest so I can box this up and send it all to you , so around Monday or Tuesday at the latest , :D
OK, I guess I'm in for some other surprises when this engine goes in. PM me with everything :)
They haven't gotten to this engine yet, I'm gonna be last and my King in my shop right now and the Pinto at the painters. Hopefully they will get to it soon.
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These are the guys getting ready to tear the engine apart. It's filler work, but I'm ok with waiting :)
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They are getting closer.
The Pinto will be back from paint on Monday :) I need pictures :)
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This is the engine torn down. I just wanted it refreshed LOL Guess they took it all the way down...
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Hey that look pretty clean inside, that is going to be a cheep over haul, and soon you will need these ;D, digging up a box so I can send them to you , later Blaine 8)
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Coolness! Do I need to pick up two Mustang Fox Body springs?
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fox body springs will not work, they have struts , got a set ,(well one of them) have to find the last one, I think you may have to cut a coil off to shorten it, after 73 they got a tad bit longer,
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74/80 front springs will work after CUTTING some coils off as they are longer than 71/73 springs. As you cut them, they will get stiffer and may make your wagon ride like one of my race cars. Only one way to tell. If your springs are sagging and too low you can buy spacers to put under the springs. They work good and can be bought at front end shops cheap. If your wagon is factory air, it came with the biggest springs Ford had in 73.
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fox body springs will not work, they have struts , got a set ,(well one of them) have to find the last one, I think you may have to cut a coil off to shorten it, after 73 they got a tad bit longer,
Like my favorite commercial (WE HAVE THE MEATS) WE HAVE THE TOOLS AHAHAHAHA
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74/80 front springs will work after CUTTING some coils off as they are longer than 71/73 springs. As you cut them, they will get stiffer and may make your wagon ride like one of my race cars. Only one way to tell. If your springs are sagging and too low you can buy spacers to put under the springs. They work good and can be bought at front end shops cheap. If your wagon is factory air, it came with the biggest springs Ford had in 73.
It was factory air :D
So are my springs good enough?
Oh, and that's my personal Matco toolbox with the drawers you see there! :D
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they just might , but when you stuff the heaver 2.3 it might end up lower, but you can like dick said put some spacers, or change them, once you have everything done break out the ruler and see, as dick also said when you cut the longer springs down they do get stiffer, new ones do not cost much, you could ask pintosopler where a good spring shop is located, since he uses his as a road racer, they can use yours to find the spring rate and make new ones to the new height you need, if you need too, the ones I got are out of a 74 up, but have to find the other one for the tag I put on it to see what year and type of pinto I took them out of, a 77 striped pinto with no air, 4 speed with the alum bumpers would be close , but a 76 wagon loaded with everything with a V-6 would be too stiff, and may not even compress with the weight of your wagon , save that for last,
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they just might , but when you stuff the heaver 2.3 it might end up lower, but you can like dick said put some spacers, or change them, once you have everything done break out the ruler and see, as dick also said when you cut the longer springs down they do get stiffer, new ones do not cost much, you could ask pintosopler where a good spring shop is located, since he uses his as a road racer, they can use yours to find the spring rate and make new ones to the new height you need, if you need too, the ones I got are out of a 74 up, but have to find the other one for the tag I put on it to see what year and type of pinto I took them out of, a 77 striped pinto with no air, 4 speed with the alum bumpers would be close , but a 76 wagon loaded with everything with a V-6 would be too stiff, and may not even compress with the weight of your wagon , save that for last,
I think I'll wait until the last on this. I can always do it later... See how the ride feels and all that stuff :)
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The engine is now just waiting on a gasket kit I got on ebay, the thing is taking forever. Car almost done and I need the engine in real soon since the car is painted and waiting!
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looking at you block it looks like you have a core plug that is one of those quick repair ones ( with the nut on top) you should change all of them (and the one behind the head and block, ) Its a pain later to change when the engine is in the car , you should have the parts I sent today , guess when you put the engine in the car and start hooking every thing up you will have some one looking over you shoulder , I often do but its over my head , later Blaine
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looking at you block it looks like you have a core plug that is one of those quick repair ones ( with the nut on top) you should change all of them (and the one behind the head and block, ) Its a pain later to change when the engine is in the car , you should have the parts I sent today , guess when you put the engine in the car and start hooking every thing up you will have some one looking over you shoulder , I often do but its over my head , later Blaine
There was a heater plug in it since the engine came from Salmon. We doing all the plugs and everything :) I want to do most of this on my own putting it back together, but I may do the 302 from the Maverick because it's a simple engine.
The car got it's first coat and now is being painted a final coat :D Pretty cool process.
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Great, could not tell by the photo that it was a block heater, do not know how cold it gets up there if you want to keep it, my 76 has one and I left it in when I rebuilt it, never had to use it down here , never seen the 20s at night , but now it always in my heated mancave all the time, when you start putting the engine back together clean everything to the max, and find a very clean place to assemble it, kitchen always works when the wife is out of town, as most of us pinto guys can put there hands up on how many carburetors have been rebuilt on the kitchen table, ::) have fun but don't get caught
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Great, could not tell by the photo that it was a block heater, do not know how cold it gets up there if you want to keep it, my 76 has one and I left it in when I rebuilt it, never had to use it down here , never seen the 20s at night , but now it always in my heated mancave all the time, when you start putting the engine back together clean everything to the max, and find a very clean place to assemble it, kitchen always works when the wife is out of town, as most of us pinto guys can put there hands up on how many carburetors have been rebuilt on the kitchen table, ::) have fun but don't get caught
ahahahaha that's why I'm never getting married again. The guy would want me cooking and I'd wanting to be cleaning guns and car parts ahahahahaha My woman cave is getting great now, just picked up a nice tool cart, the guys at the shop have my Matco LOL
I really want to get a 4 bbl 750 or 850 double pumper for the Maverick :D If it needs rebuilding, I want to do it!!! A six pack would do also :D
Get caught? Not me, no slugs around my house!!!! ahahahaha
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After I gracefully asked the 1st wife to vacate the Duplex we shared and take all the gifts from the wedding, I put things in proper order, (1st)Yamaha 125 Flat track racer into the dining area. Since I had no furniture, (Mattress on bedroom floor ) I ate my daily Steaks on the Oven door sitting on a 5 gallon bucket, or in the Summer on the Tailgate of my 55 Chevy wagon. Rode the Honda SL 350 K1 to work at Kmart year round, Tinkered with the Suzuki TC90 in the Laundry shed on the carport. Life was good at $5/hour, and $185 /mo rent. I'll stop now... No Hijack here... ;D
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After I gracefully asked the 1st wife to vacate the Duplex we shared and take all the gifts from the wedding, I put things in proper order, (1st)Yamaha 125 Flat track racer into the dining area. Since I had no furniture, (Mattress on bedroom floor ) I ate my daily Steaks on the Oven door sitting on a 5 gallon bucket, or in the Summer on the Tailgate of my 55 Chevy wagon. Rode the Honda SL 350 K1 to work at Kmart year round, Tinkered with the Suzuki TC90 in the Laundry shed on the carport. Life was good at $5/hour, and $185 /mo rent. I'll stop now... No Hijack here... ;D
You kept the house? I took everything on my first divorce ::)
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You kept the house? I took everything on my first divorce ::)
Hmm, Apprentice or Dark Lord Intern? Only the Slag can tell, and even the beads on the plates won't give it away! ! ;D
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Hmm, Apprentice or Dark Lord Intern? Only the Slag can tell, and even the beads on the plates won't give it away! ! ;D
LOL ;D
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Hrrrhh ,Haaahh , Hrrrh , Haaah , "I find your lack of compassion most disconcerting, Perhaps you shall join the previous spousal influence in the netherworld of PreFabi! " Hrrrh, Haah", Hrrhh, Hackk , Hrrumph ! ;D
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Hrrrhh ,Haaahh , Hrrrh , Haaah , "I find your lack of compassion most disconcerting, Perhaps you shall join the previous spousal influence in the netherworld of PreFabi! " Hrrrh, Haah", Hrrhh, Hackk , Hrrumph ! ;D
I caught him in bed with my best friend, so I nailed him. It was the seventies and divorce was a lot different than how. He ended up marrying her and then he cheated on her, surprise surprise LOL She tried to friend me on facebook, of course I just laughed and didn't...
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I caught him in bed with my best friend, so I nailed him. It was the seventies and divorce was a lot different than how. He ended up marrying her and then he cheated on her, surprise surprise LOL She tried to friend me on facebook, of course I just laughed and didn't...
Which is why I dissolved my FB presence, My Skeletons still had meat on the Bones ;D
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Which is why I dissolved my FB presence, My Skeletons still had meat on the Bones ;D
Yeah, but I like most people from my past :D
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Yeah, but I like most people from my past :D
A Long Long time ago in a Land far away ...... Mentor Wars , a lesson in the way of the Fabi, when only the masters held the Torch of truth.. ;)
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Well Pinto_one, your oil pump is in and it's almost done. Putting headers on it also :) The car should be wagon should be finished on Wednesday and coming to the shop :D
Can't wait to put it in.
Checking the numbers, this came out of a 1986 Thunderbird, and it is a turbo block. I can put a turbo later if I can, don't think I need to though :)
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I'm putting the ranger exhaust manifold, almost a header LOL, on the Pinto. Just a little mod for them to fit. These are those. I can't wait to get the car back!
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It's on now :D
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Looking good, but all the hoses on it has got to go, (won't fit the pinto) and change the water pump now that it is looking at you , cheep insurance, you will be very happy when it's done, last even though you have the turbo block you have the wrong Pistons , the ones you have are cast 9 to 1 compression , the turbo is 8 to 1 forged units , which you can change out easy if you later want to, good luck on your mission and this message will self destruct with a good wack on your computer screen with a hammer 😺
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Looking good, but all the hoses on it has got to go, (won't fit the pinto) and change the water pump now that it is looking at you , cheep insurance, you will be very happy when it's done, last even though you have the turbo block you have the wrong Pistons , the ones you have are cast 9 to 1 compression , the turbo is 8 to 1 forged units , which you can change out easy if you later want to, good luck on your mission and this message will self destruct with a good wack on your computer screen with a hammer 😺
LOL
Yeah, it doesn't have the right pistons. I ordered the water pump on Saturday but late, so they will bring it by on Monday :) I'm pretty excited. I'm hoping the paint shop gets the wagon done soon, who knows :( I paid like 1/3 of the price so I have to wait. Hoses will go, I'm doing some of the work and the guys are helping at the shop. I can't wait to see it in the car and hook up the AC :D That will be the most awesome this hot summer!
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It's together now :) Just need to put in the oil pan. 3 rebuilds going and the bolts got mixed up :(
I'm very excited and thanks Pinto_One!!!! Now I wish my Pinto was out of the paint shop :(
We'll find them!
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I need some help from someone who has done this. Pinto_one what did you do about the dip stick? I have the stick on the low end of the pan now. I attached a picture. Did you just shorten it and check if you can see oil?
My guys are scratching their heads LOL
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Move the dip stick to the front of the engine. You have a front sump oil pan.
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Move the dip stick to the front of the engine. You have a front sump oil pan.
There is no spot to put it in the front. I looked and short of drilling there's nothing. The only thing I can think of is to cut the dip stick, measure where it is when it's full and mark it. Then when it's lower than that mark, just add a tad bit of oil once in awhile.
What did those of you that have done this do?
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Hi Dianne,
I just looked at my 2.3 dipstick and it is about 3~4 inches further back than the distributer hole. My 2.3 was a 79/80 turbo block so i filled the rear dipstick hole and drilled out a small freeze plug looking thing a couple of incjhes from the distributer, and then inserted the dipstick tube. Also the my dipstick goes through the drivers side motor mount.
Dennis
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This is picture. The engine block stamp says it's a 86 Thunderbird engine, although it was in an 86 Mustang. The dipstick is in the back, but the pan is reversed to fit in the Pinto using the 2.3 Pinto pan. There are no freeze plus on this side of the engine. I'm thinking that someone who has done this has cut the dip stick and added 4 quarts of oil, ran the motor and mark it then you know the low and high of the oil at 5 quarts.
Just hoping someone has done this before and can tell me. I think the dipstick will have to remain where it is I guess and I'll have to do that. The picture is on the did where the distributor is.
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The dipstick will have to be moved to the front, some had a plug you had to knock out and put it into the rear, later ones were not drilled out , so you will have to remove the pan to drill it out or remove the plug, I will make some photos of the one I have on my shed floor, so you can see , will have it for you tomorrow, so sit tight and soon it will be done , on a note on this they quit putting the plug/hole in the front because they went to all rear sumps, also you have a plate on the side for a fuel pump, a few years later that was not machined out any more because of the electric pump on the EFI engines , later Blaine 👹
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The dipstick will have to be moved to the front, some had a plug you had to knock out and put it into the rear, later ones were not drilled out , so you will have to remove the pan to drill it out or remove the plug, I will make some photos of the one I have on my shed floor, so you can see , will have it for you tomorrow, so sit tight and soon it will be done , on a note on this they quit putting the plug/hole in the front because they went to all rear sumps, also you have a plate on the side for a fuel pump, a few years later that was not machined out any more because of the electric pump on the EFI engines , later Blaine
Yep, that's there Blaine. I think the best way to handle it is what I mentioned, what do you think? It holds 5 quarts of oil in the motor. Now I don't know exactly how high the oil will make it into that rear part of the pan, but I am thinking it should be making it back there. I think that modifying the dipstick to show the oil would work by re-scoring it with the new levels after cutting it down. My thought are to fill the oil and filter with 4 quarts of oil to start. So basically run it for a minute, then turn it off and allow it to drip back down.
Once the oil settles with 4 quarts, I can drop the stick back in the pan. That will show me the level of 4 quarts of oil and allow the the 5th quart to be scored on the dipstick. Basically redoing the dipstick to show where the oil levels should be. The 86 motor I am using seems to be different than others. I found this and it doesn't even show the 86 2.3 EFI.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4cylinders.html
It shows a lot of the differences between all of these engines. I'm just glad I have the computer and wiring harness to be honest.
Thanks for all the help Blaine! I'm supposed to get the wagon back next week though :D FINALLY!
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I see your idea but the problem is the the rear part of the pinto pan is that the oil is not high enough to read on the stick and the stick will hit the bottom of the pan, when you put the pinto pan on it now goes to the pinto specs on how much oil it holds , I always put a FL1A filter and dumped 5 qts of oil in them, gone this far might as well do it right, so no worrys later 😸
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This engine was advertised as a 86 turbo but who knows. Anyway, look about half way between the oil filter and the distributor holes and just below the "FP". That is the hole for the front dip stick and it has a ~1/4" diameter plug pressed in to it. If yours is not predrilled, at least this shows where to drill. Also noticed your block did not have the turbo oil return hole/boss on the exhaust side which seemed odd for a turbo block, see second photo.
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What's weird about this block is that it came out of a 1989 Mustang, maybe it was swapped before and I don't really know and don't have the number of the person I got it from any more. But it's only turbo identification was the number stamped in the side that identifies it as an 86 turbo Thunderbird 2.3. But the person I got it from did an engine swap to a 5.0 on his 89 Mustang. The pistons aren't forged so I don't think it was a turbo. But with that said, I don't recall seeing it. I'm at the office all day tomorrow :( Trying to sell the company that is sucking the life out of me. I am finally doing what I want in my life! My mini-stock is almost ready for primer :) A Mustang II notch back, I can't wait to race!
But this is getting to me. I'll have the guys look at the thread in the morning and see if that's there. I don't recall seeing it to be honest, but things are lost right in front of our eyes in the shop sometimes ahahahaha. I hope it's there, but I don't have a drill press that's big enough to drill that. Maybe just drill it in. I'll let you know in the morning, but I don't remember anything like that. Again, it's probably there or I have some odd ball block.
Would the ECM tell me anything? I can look it up I guess.
Thanks again!
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I did a side by side and it looks different in the pictures. The blocks are different.it looks like. I have that "ledge" where you have the "FP" and the left of that is even more different.
Thanks again, we'll look but from the pictures the blocks look different. I don't think I have that cap. I'll look up the ECM when I get any numbers off of that.
Thanks again!
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Per pinto_one
'I see your idea but the problem is the the rear part of the pinto pan is that the oil is not high enough to read on the stick...'
X2, the oil level will not be high enough to touch the stick there.
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Per pinto_one
'I see your idea but the problem is the the rear part of the pinto pan is that the oil is not high enough to read on the stick...'
X2, the oil level will not be high enough to touch the stick there.
Thanks, I think I got that ;)
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They drilled it out for me :) Have the dip stick in the right place now!
Does anyone know where you could get a plug for the oil stick? I could call the parts supplier tomorrow I guess :)
THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!
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They drilled it out for me :) Have the dip stick in the right place now!
Does anyone know where you could get a plug for the oil stick? I could call the parts supplier tomorrow I guess :)
THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!
Yes , there's nothing quite like having your dipstick where it should be ;D ;D ;D. Speaking as a first class Dipstick, I should know ;)
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Yes , there's nothing quite like having your dipstick where it should be ;D ;D ;D. Speaking as a first class Dipstick, I should know ;)
LOL
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They drilled it out for me :) Have the dip stick in the right place now!
Does anyone know where you could get a plug for the oil stick? I could call the parts supplier tomorrow I guess :)
THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!
Don't look now, but your Matco is showing! ;D ;D
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And a 302 build :D
That is my Matco cart :D
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Great that you got the dip stick in the righ place, but they may be one small detail to address but easy to fix, the oil pan you took off was longer in the back and the dip stick is longer (because it was stuffed way in the back and and tall enough to see it, so in the front it may read incorrectly some , 5qts and filter run a few minutes and stop , let set for ten and check oil with the stick, if reads low use tubing cutter on tube and shorten until reads spot on, if to high go to a you pull it and fing a shorter stick and and cut tube to read right, had to do this on my 2.8 engine because the org tube got broken when I sent the block out to be rebored, used a tube from a 2.9 ranger and had to cut over an inch off the tube to read right, good luck and looking good , later Blaine 😜
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Great that you got the dip stick in the righ place, but they may be one small detail to address but easy to fix, the oil pan you took off was longer in the back and the dip stick is longer (because it was stuffed way in the back and and tall enough to see it, so in the front it may read incorrectly some , 5qts and filter run a few minutes and stop , let set for ten and check oil with the stick, if reads low use tubing cutter on tube and shorten until reads spot on, if to high go to a you pull it and fing a shorter stick and and cut tube to read right, had to do this on my 2.8 engine because the org tube got broken when I sent the block out to be rebored, used a tube from a 2.9 ranger and had to cut over an inch off the tube to read right, good luck and looking good , later Blaine 😜
Thanks. That picture was pretty good to figure it out. But I guess I'll have to wait until oil is in it, but I like that idea of cutting the tube until it's in the right spot. I also like the idea using a 2.9 range stick.
Thanks everyone for all the help on this! Your experiences are certainly helping make this a simpler build. I still don't know about the block though.
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Assuming your concern about the block is for a future turbo addition. If you do add a turbo in the future, the turbo oil can be drained directly to the side of the oil pan. Either use a bulk head fitting or weld a fitting to the side of the pan above the oil level. Believe I read your engine had cast pistons which would need to be swapped for forged pistons to reliably tolerate boost. That would be a opportune time to add the drain to the pan. From reading forums, the turbo and non-turbo blocks are of equal strength so a turbo block is not needed to run a turbo.
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Assuming your concern about the block is for a future turbo addition. If you do add a turbo in the future, the turbo oil can be drained directly to the side of the oil pan. Either use a bulk head fitting or weld a fitting to the side of the pan above the oil level. Believe I read your engine had cast pistons which would need to be swapped for forged pistons to reliably tolerate boost. That would be a opportune time to add the drain to the pan. From reading forums, the turbo and non-turbo blocks are of equal strength so a turbo block is not needed to run a turbo.
No, not going to turn it into a turbo. It's really just my second daily driver and maybe a show car. This is stamped as a turbo block, but didn't come with forged pistons. It looks like it was factory and I'll be at the shop today so I need to look at the ECM and see what it really came out of. I am assuming it did come out of an 89 Mustang Fox Body, and it's possible that the block was used in them. Seems the Lima engines can be all over the place I guess. I'm just happy to get it into working condition again with a modern (well more modern) engine with EFI and a computer. It should make the wagon a great car to drive :D
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Yes Diane that engine was used in just about everything, generators , fork lifts, air compressors , and tugs that tow large aircraft, , here is one that is in the hanger , they will pick it up tomorrow to bring to another airport, my last day here is next Friday and the place will close forever , but on a good note I have two job offerings and just have to pick which one I want ;D
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Congratulation s!!! That had to be somewhat nerve racking to have gone through that process! Well, that's pretty cool really! There is one in a 46 Jeep here and I know it's a transplant. So are you a mechanic of some type? Good mechanics are hard to find I'm finding out. I have 2 good ones now and a shop monkey :D
That's pretty cool though :D Did you want to do a 2.3 swap on that one LOL Just kidding :P
So what jobs can you have?
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Almost ready to go into the car. All I need now is the car back from the paint shop and I have to pick up a cold air intake. Anyone have a good inexpensive one that works well?
It's almost there!
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There are a lot of them out there. I did the ebay search:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Ford+2.3+EFI+cold+air+intake&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XFord+2.3+cold+air+intake.TRS0&_nkw=Ford+2.3+cold+air+intake&ghostText=&_sacat=0
A lot of cheap ones and a K&N at 170, over my budget right now. Are the cheaper ones as good, or are they Chinese crap? Anyone use one on their EFI? It supposedly adds some horsepower with the short headers and better gas mileage. What's your experiences on these?
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Cheep and a good one would be from a 3.0 ford ranger around 94 to 2000, has the place to put your airflow sensor inside (to save room) and you can always buy a filter or at a later date install a K&N replacement , if you want I can research this for you to save time and money , later Blaine 😺
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Cheep and a good one would be from a 3.0 ford ranger around 94 to 2000, has the place to put your airflow sensor inside (to save room) and you can always buy a filter or at a later date install a K&N replacement , if you want I can research this for you to save time and money , later Blaine 😺
There was an after market one, but had K&N. I can look I guess, ebay and RockAuto :)
Thanks so much Blaine!
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can the original c3 bolt up to the efi block and crank? I ask because when trying to install the c3 trans the torque converter pilot bottoms out on the crank and binds the motor. i know the cranks are different and the c3 converter pilot is different from the c4 converter pilot. or am i just missing something here? and yes the converter is seated all the way in the trans. (i checked multiple times.)
(this is Aaron, diannes mechanic btw)
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The cranks are the same , make sure the engine did not come out of a car with a standard transmission, because it will still have the pilot bearing still in the crank,
You will have to remove it for it to seat the converter , it the converter was rebuilt and painted make sure your sand the paint off the stub that goes into the crank, and a last note if some one dropped the converter on that end it will smash it out of round , hope this helps . Later Blaine
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The transmission came from an automatic. (This is Dianne now) I just ordered a new flex plate for the C4 and that's going in now. The flex plates look way different, so this car is now getting a C4. Putting it in the 79.
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engine came from a mustang with an auto. i took everything apart and nothing got dropped. everything should bolt up but the trans wont seat all the way without pinching the converter. only thing i can think is either the converter isn't seated all the way or this crank is slightly longer(which doesn't seem feasible). thing is i've pulled and reseated the converter probably 10 different times. pilot on the converter is flush with the bell housing. if all else fails i guess the c4 will be going in in place of the c3.
also the converter isnt rebuilt and its not jamming around it is bottoming out.
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check see if theres not a extra dowel pin in the trans or block.ive made that mistake a few times
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there is not
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The converter is not seated into the pump all the way, and tighten up the bolts until the engine locks up is bad, you may have put some marks on the converter flats that drive the pump enough to prevent them from going into the pump, remove the converter and look into the pump housing and you will see the pump drive lugs, and the angle at that Time , mark the center , check fitment by sticking converter on engine , the three flats for the bolts should mount flush , next is to check to see if you have the flywheel on backwards, that also will mess up your day and the trans, install converter with the flats close to your marks , these are a real pain sometimes because a few time I had to stand a few c-3s on the tail shaft and spin the converter to drop in place , good luck,
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been through all that. flexplate is bolted on the correct way. even took the flexplate off and put the trans in. thats how i found out the converter was bottoming out.
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Well something has changed , the 2.3 cranks shafts are all the same, the converter may have been dropped by accident and not one knew about it, might want to find a trans shop and find a pump gear to test that , a C3 or A4LD will work,, next you will see a taper one one side of the gear , that is to help in alinement to engage the converter, I have found a few installed backwards and they will still work but a bitch to line up, those I stood on the tail shaft with the belhouseing pointing up, and put in the converter and spin it until it drops in the rest of the way , good thinking on trying it with out the flywheel , just make sure the stub shaft on the converter slides all the way in the crank to make sure , that end will bend also when dropped , had a few bite me,s over the years on that also , hope this helps ,
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Well something has changed , the 2.3 cranks shafts are all the same, the converter may have been dropped by accident and not one knew about it, might want to find a trans shop and find a pump gear to test that , a C3 or A4LD will work,, next you will see a taper one one side of the gear , that is to help in alinement to engage the converter, I have found a few installed backwards and they will still work but a bitch to line up, those I stood on the tail shaft with the belhouseing pointing up, and put in the converter and spin it until it drops in the rest of the way , good thinking on trying it with out the flywheel , just make sure the stub shaft on the converter slides all the way in the crank to make sure , that end will bend also when dropped , had a few bite me,s over the years on that also , hope this helps ,
Nothing was dropped Blaine. Aaron actually took the converter out and marked the orientation of the pump drive, put the converter in and rotated 90 degrees and then took transmission out and saw that the pump rotated 90 degrees.
We looked up the crankshaft for these two years, the 79 Pinto and the 89 Mustang engine, and they have two different part numbers. I'm guess something there is different. So in goes the C4 I guess. Then I can convert to a T5 and make the wagon a standard with the turbo :)
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i've even pulled the converter and rotated it 180* and reinstalled it. trust me the converter is seated all the way. it is not my first rodeo. i have discovered that the c4 bellhousing is longer than the c3. and the converter pilot is not mushroomed. i think you are misunderstandi ng me. the pilot doesnt get jammed the crank bottoms out on the converter pilot. i think it would need a different converter and/or the bellhousings swapped in order to work. but the c4 will be going in so problem solved.
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Well kind of hard when you can not see it, and guess since it was taken apart and all the peaces were kept together , it should work, unless you have in the shop a A4ld that was taken out of a efi mustang or thunderbird and the converter ended up in the C3 , yes it will go in, but it is an inch longer, the c4 bell housing will have to come off a 2.3 , rare, but if you have one off a 2.0 you will have to use stepped dowels, to center everything up, do not leave the dowel out , it will wear out the pump bushing in no time , good luck , and I hope you find why , later Blaine
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Well kind of hard when you can not see it, and guess since it was taken apart and all the peaces were kept together , it should work, unless you have in the shop a A4ld that was taken out of a efi mustang or thunderbird and the converter ended up in the C3 , yes it will go in, but it is an inch longer, the c4 bell housing will have to come off a 2.3 , rare, but if you have one off a 2.0 you will have to use stepped dowels, to center everything up, do not leave the dowel out , it will wear out the pump bushing in no time , good luck , and I hope you find why , later Blaine
The transmission was taken out of the Pinto and everything kept together. If you look up the flex plates for these you'll see how different they look and the C4 flex plate has a concave some. Weird...
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The C3 and the C4 flex plates are very different , and having piles of parts in the shop just waiting to be mixed matched , priceless, that is why I use aircraft safety wire to tie things that must stay together for future projects, the C3 not bolting up to a 2.3 that was once bolted to a2.3 sounds like a good story for a book deal in the future to sove this mystery or sabotage, the plot thickens, 📝👀
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The C3 and the C4 flex plates are very different , and having piles of parts in the shop just waiting to be mixed matched , priceless, that is why I use aircraft safety wire to tie things that must stay together for future projects, the C3 not bolting up to a 2.3 that was once bolted to a2.3 sounds like a good story for a book deal in the future to sove this mystery or sabotage, the plot thickens, 📝👀
LOL and it's thick :) The new flex plate gets here tomorrow. It looks like the cranks are different also in the 79 Pinto and the 89 Mustang...
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Which trans are you going to use , and also the the 2.3 cranks are the same from 1974 up to late or early 88 , then they reduced the main bearing size , it stayed that way until the end of the run of the engine,
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Which trans are you going to use , and also the the 2.3 cranks are the same from 1974 up to late or early 88 , then they reduced the main bearing size , it stayed that way until the end of the run of the engine,
This one is an 89. Going to go with the C4 when the flex plate comes in tomorrow :) Better transmission anyway :)
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they make a nice oil pan for the C4 that holds a few more qts of trans fluid and has small tubes to help with some cooling , heat alway killed the C4 in the pinto ,the small torque converter made lots of heat and burned them up in stop and go traffic,
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they make a nice oil pan for the C4 that holds a few more qts of trans fluid and has small tubes to help with some cooling , heat alway killed the C4 in the pinto ,the small torque converter made lots of heat and burned them up in stop and go traffic,
It's probably the same as the one in the Mustang II, but that may have been modified for the mini stock. I'll look into that! Thanks! Do you know what the one was? Where did you get your pans?
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They did good in the Mustang? What's the difference between the two? Do you know why it gets kills in the Pinto and not the Mustang? There are oil cooler lines on the C4? Should I just put in an oil cooler?
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They dies in the mustang II also , most were people that never left town and stuck in traffic with the A/C wide open on a hot day, that back then came with the first joke about the pinto , Put IN Transmission Often, happen to me, alway stuck in the New Orleans traffic, stop and go and the seals got hard as a rock and lost pressure inside then burnt clutches , installed a larger pan and a oil cooler , problem gone ,
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Their is a difference between the 79 and 89 cranks but it should not affect bolting up the transmission components. The 79 uses a two piece rear main seal and the crank has a oil slinger built in to help keep oil away from the seal. The 89 uses a more efficient one piece rear main seal and the crank does not have the oil slinger ring.
As a investigation procedure, have you tried bolting the flex plate on the crank and then the torque converter to the flex plate without the transmission? You might be able to see if the interference is coming from converter snot. Final assembly should be with converter seated in the transmission and then slid forward to bolt to the flex plate (stated to avoid confusion).
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They said they even tried to bolt it up to the engine with out the fly wheel and still went into a bind , I still believe that they have not got the converter fully seated into the pump gears , forgot about the seal , early ones used the rope , but ford motor sports had a two piece one to change over , and you are right on all of them sticking out the same on the trans side
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I'm certain my guys will read this. He knows his stuff, but maybe he can try again...
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The converter is seated. It just doesn't work. The C4 should resolve the problem...
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Are you sure you have the right converter, I did notice you had a A4LD on the floor that came out of the t bird for your pinto wagon project , make sure it did not accidentally got the converters mixed up , the converter is a inch longer , that is all it can be , to bad I am so far away to look myself , I do like to solve mysterys ,
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Are you sure you have the right converter, I did notice you had a A4LD on the floor that came out of the t bird for your pinto wagon project , make sure it did not accidentally got the converters mixed up , the converter is a inch longer , that is all it can be , to bad I am so far away to look myself , I do like to solve mysterys ,
Yes, positive. The C3 came out of the Pinto and the C4 was out of the Mustang. Honestly, they are different and I know what came out of the Pinto and the Mustang ;) It's annoying to be honest and the flex plate won't be here until tomorrow :(
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Ok , I guess we got some confusion here , I know the C3 and 4 are very different , thought the original problem was you could not get the 79 C-3 trans from the pinto to bolt to the 89 2.3 out of a mustang , it is supposed to work, botton line , but guess something happen to it when you had it apart , but since you got a working C4,and can get it to bolt up go for it , kind if hard to help when you can't touch it and your almost a thousand miles away , but good luck, let us know what happens ,
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Was the crank ever sent out to be turned? Often they just do an exchange. And, if the crank came out of a manual car the pilot bearing might still be in there. This is just a shot in the dark, but stranger things have happened.
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No pilot bearing. Something is not lining up. But again, we have a c4 going in tomorrow I hope if the flex plate gets in. That was going in the wagon on the turbo project, but now that's going manual :)
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A bucket of parts from different years and models makes for an interesting puzzle, lol.. :D
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A bucket of parts from different years and models makes for an interesting puzzle, lol.. :D
It sure had, I can't wait to get to the turbo in the wagon LOL
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I think I used a 55 gallon drum full of parts when I done my 76 , almost got the other drum full enough to start working on my Cruze wagon , 😜
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I think I used a 55 gallon drum full of parts when I done my 76 , almost got the other drum full enough to start working on my Cruze wagon , 😜
You're crazier than me ahahahahahahah aha
Well, I can't wait to see what happens with the new flex plate :) Then it's rewiring.
This probably should have been under the 79 Pinto build to help someone else.
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I've searched and couldn't find anything but does someone know what wires on the ecm i need to tap into for power and ground?
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Below is a link to a 1988 Mustang EVTM. Might be close enough for the 1987 ecm, but look for discrepancies. For a exact match, hard copy EVTM's can found on ebay. See page 26 in the link for the main power and ground connections. Note their are several levels of power and grounds used to avoid electrical noise and circulating currents, so it is good to watch the details.
http://home.comcast.net/~smithmonte/Auto/1988_Mustang_EVTM.htm
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Wiring mess :)
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Not to bad , just have shorten it some and toss what you don't need , best is to look at the wiring diagram (colored coded in real color) on a table in a quite place , and take time to look it over , you will see how simple it is
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Not to bad , just have shorten it some and toss what you don't need , best is to look at the wiring diagram (colored coded in real color) on a table in a quite place , and take time to look it over , you will see how simple it is
It's getting closer and the guys figured out how to do it now and are laying out the new fuel lines for the EFI setup. They are going to use two fuel pumps with different flow ratios (gallons per,,,) and that will be done!
It is a process :) I'm stuff doing service orders now and we're moving the shop opening on the 13th of July. I'm hoping this is done before we move :)
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Not to bad , just have shorten it some and toss what you don't need , best is to look at the wiring diagram (colored coded in real color) on a table in a quite place , and take time to look it over , you will see how simple it is
You know your stuff is in this car :D That's your pan. I'm going to use the mounts in the wagon. This is a good opportunity to learn for the wagon. It's a lot of work. It's getting an overdrive transmission also. I'm going to weld the new transmission mount soon. It's gotta get the driveline changed also. It's a fun project!
Thanks for all the help :D
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You can look at my transmission mount under the pinto gallery members photos, but the transmission tunnel is smaller on your wagon , they are a few here that has a much simpler mount for your wagon when they done it, I done it that way to make the duel exhaust pass easier to the back, you have to cut ALL of the transmission metal out from the tunnel, or your shifter rod will touch it on one side and your cooler line and vacuum line to the modulate r will hit on the other, drive shaft will have to be shortened 4 1/2 inches, same for the shifter rod ,
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Yep, saw it :) Thanks!
Cutting it out and making a new mount :)
Dianne
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how did you guys do your fuel system? Is there an in tank pump option or just in line pump?
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Inline pump from a F-Series Ford pickup (probably mid to late 80's). Six or so years ago it was $11 from U-Pull Parts. I used the fuel filter, relay box and impact shut-off switch from my T/C donor car. Just a word of caution. Some of the F-Series truck had a low pressure electric pump to bring the fuel to the high pressure pump. If it helps my pump was mounted on the trucks frame rail about where the door is. There are only certain years that used this inline pump. At some point they went to an in tank arrangement.
Don't forget there needs to be a return line. Some use the tank vent line but I ran a separate return by drilling and soldering into the sender unit housing. That melted the nylon electrical seal, but JB Weld fixed it up and six years later, no leaks. Both my pressure and return line were fashioned from modifying the T/C donor cars fuel lines.
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Thank you!!!! This beats $500 of parts!
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Any idea what the HP and MPG differences are between the EFI 2.3 versus the old carbed 2.3? Reading this post has got me thinking about doing it on my 80. Also are there any clearance issues with the hood with that intake?
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Any idea what the HP and MPG differences are between the EFI 2.3 versus the old carbed 2.3? Reading this post has got me thinking about doing it on my 80. Also are there any clearance issues with the hood with that intake?
It's about 90 for the EFI and about 88 for the Pinto 2.3 (or T88). The big thing is the MPG that it will get with the 2.3 EFI :)
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There is an oil glut right now......stop worrying about MPG ! ;D
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There is an oil glut right now......stop worrying about MPG ! ;D
LOL
And it's more fun and a better setup :)
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There is an oil glut right now......stop worrying about MPG ! ;D
When you work 40 minutes from home you always worry about MPGs :P
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When you work 40 minutes from home you always worry about MPGs :P
It's just a better running option also is what I should have said!
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It's just a better running option also is what I should have said!
Which is always good for me. Give me EFI & I can do anything. Give me a carburetor & I tend to be rather braindead.
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Which is always good for me. Give me EFI & I can do anything. Give me a carburetor & I tend to be rather braindead.
Well, carbs have to be adjusted :D
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This is how I'm building the new transmission mount in the 79 Pinto. Just got some 1 inch square tube. That's now welded to the frame taking the old frame mount out and cutting some of it off and Welding some steel plate to those two frames that will bolt through the transmission. this is a daily driver so I'm not that worried about how it looks. No one will see under the car. The EFI and the new transmission are definitely different. This is the best way I can see you to do it. If I had the plasma cutter setup and program running I could probably cut out something pretty cool. But since it's a daily driver it's all good.
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After we did it it would probably be better with two plates to the side an angle with round tube and bolted to the old mount, but this will work fine. Its a daily driver not a show car.
The transmission is a A4LD.
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Hey Dianne did you look on my gallery photos and see how I done mine , out of the way and not hard to do , later Blaine
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Hey Dianne did you look on my gallery photos and see how I done mine , out of the way and not hard to do , later Blaine
That looks good actually Blaine. After doing it we saw like 50 different methods LOL. I may change it later, just wanting it on the road now.
Mine was also harder probably. Did you use a Mustang II mount?
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Nope , I used the stock mount that came with the car , (2.8 V6) you have to cut away ALL of the old pinto mount one the car to clear everything, if the car had the C-3 the yoke will fit the trans only you will have to shorten the drive shaft 4 and a half inches , the pinto neutral switch will plug into the trans you have , no mods there
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Nope , I used the stock mount that came with the car , (2.8 V6) you have to cut away ALL of the old pinto mount one the car to clear everything, if the car had the C-3 the yoke will fit the trans only you will have to shorten the drive shaft 4 and a half inches , the pinto neutral switch will plug into the trans you have , no mods there
Yep, the drive shaft is off to being done now and yeah, I think it was that. The mount you see in mine is from this Pinto, much different than the 2.8 one. Yours looks pretty identical to a Mustang II. Mine will hold, I don't like it and will probably change it later. I have a Mustang II one laying around from a 2.3 so the exhaust is different than yours, but since mine is a 2.3 it should work. Not too certain yet on how or if I am even going to do it Blaine.
Yours does look nice!!!
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looks good but is it going to be too low to the ground? I'd be concerned of bottoming out since the Pintos are pretty low to the ground as it is.
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looks good but is it going to be too low to the ground? I'd be concerned of bottoming out since the Pintos are pretty low to the ground as it is.
It should be fine, not that low. I can take a pic after I get the driveline back and see where I am at that point. But seemed fine when it was off the lift and measuring the driveshaft!
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It's been awhile. The 79 Pinto is running with the fox body motor. This has been a task and trying to get it done with a little time. But here it is running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfFESUN9e48
Also, I cut out the transmission mount I welded in and an now going to redo it. This is basically going to be my daily driver.
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(http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd79/oopsman_09/20160206_114501_zpsmhpwx5qv.jpg)
this is where you hook switched power. This is a soldered connection covered in tape from the factory.
(http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd79/oopsman_09/20160206_114521_zpsepusyoxh.jpg)
this is your ground. they are all black with green stripe.
https://youtu.be/Tfv7P6_BaIY
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Glad you got it running , you used the auto overdrive in it ? Guessed since you cut the transmission crossmember you did , good mod , still like mine , how is your 73 wagon coming , like to see when you get that done , have a good one , Blaine
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Yes we are using the a4ld. wagon is back at the shop ready to get interior put back together.
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Glad you got it running , you used the auto overdrive in it ? Guessed since you cut the transmission crossmember you did , good mod , still like mine , how is your 73 wagon coming , like to see when you get that done , have a good one , Blaine
The 73 is coming along, need to find clips and stuff. Posted a pic also in that build :)
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Use the shifter arm out of the C-3 on the A4LD , that way you can use the stock shifter and file the extra detent on the shifter , the rod just shortened 4 1/2 inches, best is you do not have to remove the valve body to do it , keeps it stock looking
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Aaron,
That sounds like a plan. Aaron is the lead tech at the shop :) He will also own this in a few years to 5 I hope!
Dianne