Author Topic: 2.3 EFI 1987 Mustang Pinto swap into a 79 Pinto (Read 25786 times)

dianne · « **Reply #60 on:** March 17, 2015, 07:34:13 AM »

It's together now

Just need to put in the oil pan. 3 rebuilds going and the bolts got mixed up

I'm very excited and thanks Pinto_One!!!! Now I wish my Pinto was out of the paint shop

We'll find them!

dianne · « **Reply #61 on:** March 17, 2015, 04:07:10 PM »

I need some help from someone who has done this. Pinto_one what did you do about the dip stick? I have the stick on the low end of the pan now. I attached a picture. Did you just shorten it and check if you can see oil?

My guys are scratching their heads LOL

dick1172762 · « **Reply #62 on:** March 17, 2015, 04:51:01 PM »

Move the dip stick to the front of the engine. You have a front sump oil pan.

dianne · « **Reply #63 on:** March 17, 2015, 04:59:08 PM »

Quote from: dick1172762 on March 17, 2015, 04:51:01 PM

Move the dip stick to the front of the engine. You have a front sump oil pan.

There is no spot to put it in the front. I looked and short of drilling there's nothing. The only thing I can think of is to cut the dip stick, measure where it is when it's full and mark it. Then when it's lower than that mark, just add a tad bit of oil once in awhile.

What did those of you that have done this do?

dennisofaz · « **Reply #64 on:** March 17, 2015, 05:08:27 PM »

Hi Dianne,

I just looked at my 2.3 dipstick and it is about 3~4 inches further back than the distributer hole. My 2.3 was a 79/80 turbo block so i filled the rear dipstick hole and drilled out a small freeze plug looking thing a couple of incjhes from the distributer, and then inserted the dipstick tube. Also the my dipstick goes through the drivers side motor mount.

Dennis

dianne · « **Reply #65 on:** March 17, 2015, 05:41:06 PM »

This is picture. The engine block stamp says it's a 86 Thunderbird engine, although it was in an 86 Mustang. The dipstick is in the back, but the pan is reversed to fit in the Pinto using the 2.3 Pinto pan. There are no freeze plus on this side of the engine. I'm thinking that someone who has done this has cut the dip stick and added 4 quarts of oil, ran the motor and mark it then you know the low and high of the oil at 5 quarts.

Just hoping someone has done this before and can tell me. I think the dipstick will have to remain where it is I guess and I'll have to do that. The picture is on the did where the distributor is.

pinto_one · « **Reply #66 on:** March 17, 2015, 06:16:39 PM »

The dipstick will have to be moved to the front, some had a plug you had to knock out and put it into the rear, later ones were not drilled out , so you will have to remove the pan to drill it out or remove the plug, I will make some photos of the one I have on my shed floor, so you can see , will have it for you tomorrow, so sit tight and soon it will be done , on a note on this they quit putting the plug/hole in the front because they went to all rear sumps, also you have a plate on the side for a fuel pump, a few years later that was not machined out any more because of the electric pump on the EFI engines , later Blaine 👹

dianne · « **Reply #67 on:** March 17, 2015, 06:36:05 PM »

Quote from: pinto_one on March 17, 2015, 06:16:39 PM

The dipstick will have to be moved to the front, some had a plug you had to knock out and put it into the rear, later ones were not drilled out , so you will have to remove the pan to drill it out or remove the plug, I will make some photos of the one I have on my shed floor, so you can see , will have it for you tomorrow, so sit tight and soon it will be done , on a note on this they quit putting the plug/hole in the front because they went to all rear sumps, also you have a plate on the side for a fuel pump, a few years later that was not machined out any more because of the electric pump on the EFI engines , later Blaine

Yep, that's there Blaine. I think the best way to handle it is what I mentioned, what do you think? It holds 5 quarts of oil in the motor. Now I don't know exactly how high the oil will make it into that rear part of the pan, but I am thinking it should be making it back there. I think that modifying the dipstick to show the oil would work by re-scoring it with the new levels after cutting it down. My thought are to fill the oil and filter with 4 quarts of oil to start. So basically run it for a minute, then turn it off and allow it to drip back down.

Once the oil settles with 4 quarts, I can drop the stick back in the pan. That will show me the level of 4 quarts of oil and allow the the 5th quart to be scored on the dipstick. Basically redoing the dipstick to show where the oil levels should be. The 86 motor I am using seems to be different than others. I found this and it doesn't even show the 86 2.3 EFI.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4cylinders.html

It shows a lot of the differences between all of these engines. I'm just glad I have the computer and wiring harness to be honest.

Thanks for all the help Blaine! I'm supposed to get the wagon back next week though

FINALLY!

pinto_one · « **Reply #68 on:** March 17, 2015, 07:31:02 PM »

I see your idea but the problem is the the rear part of the pinto pan is that the oil is not high enough to read on the stick and the stick will hit the bottom of the pan, when you put the pinto pan on it now goes to the pinto specs on how much oil it holds , I always put a FL1A filter and dumped 5 qts of oil in them, gone this far might as well do it right, so no worrys later 😸

oldkayaker · « **Reply #69 on:** March 17, 2015, 07:47:55 PM »

This engine was advertised as a 86 turbo but who knows. Anyway, look about half way between the oil filter and the distributor holes and just below the "FP". That is the hole for the front dip stick and it has a ~1/4" diameter plug pressed in to it. If yours is not predrilled, at least this shows where to drill. Also noticed your block did not have the turbo oil return hole/boss on the exhaust side which seemed odd for a turbo block, see second photo.

dianne · « **Reply #70 on:** March 17, 2015, 08:20:01 PM »

What's weird about this block is that it came out of a 1989 Mustang, maybe it was swapped before and I don't really know and don't have the number of the person I got it from any more. But it's only turbo identification was the number stamped in the side that identifies it as an 86 turbo Thunderbird 2.3. But the person I got it from did an engine swap to a 5.0 on his 89 Mustang. The pistons aren't forged so I don't think it was a turbo. But with that said, I don't recall seeing it. I'm at the office all day tomorrow

Trying to sell the company that is sucking the life out of me. I am finally doing what I want in my life! My mini-stock is almost ready for primer

A Mustang II notch back, I can't wait to race!

But this is getting to me. I'll have the guys look at the thread in the morning and see if that's there. I don't recall seeing it to be honest, but things are lost right in front of our eyes in the shop sometimes ahahahaha. I hope it's there, but I don't have a drill press that's big enough to drill that. Maybe just drill it in. I'll let you know in the morning, but I don't remember anything like that. Again, it's probably there or I have some odd ball block.

Would the ECM tell me anything? I can look it up I guess.

Thanks again!

dianne · « **Reply #71 on:** March 17, 2015, 08:34:49 PM »

I did a side by side and it looks different in the pictures. The blocks are different.it looks like. I have that "ledge" where you have the "FP" and the left of that is even more different.

Thanks again, we'll look but from the pictures the blocks look different. I don't think I have that cap. I'll look up the ECM when I get any numbers off of that.

Thanks again!

amc49 · « **Reply #72 on:** March 18, 2015, 04:21:04 AM »

Per pinto_one

'I see your idea but the problem is the the rear part of the pinto pan is that the oil is not high enough to read on the stick...'

X2, the oil level will not be high enough to touch the stick there.

dianne · « **Reply #73 on:** March 18, 2015, 05:29:31 AM »

Quote from: amc49 on March 18, 2015, 04:21:04 AM

Per pinto_one

'I see your idea but the problem is the the rear part of the pinto pan is that the oil is not high enough to read on the stick...'

X2, the oil level will not be high enough to touch the stick there.

Thanks, I think I got that

dianne · « **Reply #74 on:** March 18, 2015, 02:17:41 PM »

They drilled it out for me

Have the dip stick in the right place now!

Does anyone know where you could get a plug for the oil stick? I could call the parts supplier tomorrow I guess

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!

Pintosopher · « **Reply #75 on:** March 18, 2015, 02:43:29 PM »

Quote from: dianne on March 18, 2015, 02:17:41 PM

They drilled it out for me Have the dip stick in the right place now!

Does anyone know where you could get a plug for the oil stick? I could call the parts supplier tomorrow I guess

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!

Yes , there's nothing quite like having your dipstick where it should be

. Speaking as a first class Dipstick, I should know

dianne · « **Reply #76 on:** March 18, 2015, 02:57:21 PM »

Quote from: pintosopher on March 18, 2015, 02:43:29 PM

Yes , there's nothing quite like having your dipstick where it should be . Speaking as a first class Dipstick, I should know

LOL

Pintosopher · « **Reply #77 on:** March 18, 2015, 03:01:58 PM »

Quote from: dianne on March 18, 2015, 02:17:41 PM

They drilled it out for me Have the dip stick in the right place now!

Does anyone know where you could get a plug for the oil stick? I could call the parts supplier tomorrow I guess

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!

Don't look now, but your Matco is showing!

dianne · « **Reply #78 on:** March 18, 2015, 03:32:07 PM »

And a 302 build

That is my Matco cart

pinto_one · « **Reply #79 on:** March 18, 2015, 07:03:28 PM »

Great that you got the dip stick in the righ place, but they may be one small detail to address but easy to fix, the oil pan you took off was longer in the back and the dip stick is longer (because it was stuffed way in the back and and tall enough to see it, so in the front it may read incorrectly some , 5qts and filter run a few minutes and stop , let set for ten and check oil with the stick, if reads low use tubing cutter on tube and shorten until reads spot on, if to high go to a you pull it and fing a shorter stick and and cut tube to read right, had to do this on my 2.8 engine because the org tube got broken when I sent the block out to be rebored, used a tube from a 2.9 ranger and had to cut over an inch off the tube to read right, good luck and looking good , later Blaine 😜

dianne · « **Reply #80 on:** March 18, 2015, 07:12:16 PM »

Quote from: pinto_one on March 18, 2015, 07:03:28 PM

Great that you got the dip stick in the righ place, but they may be one small detail to address but easy to fix, the oil pan you took off was longer in the back and the dip stick is longer (because it was stuffed way in the back and and tall enough to see it, so in the front it may read incorrectly some , 5qts and filter run a few minutes and stop , let set for ten and check oil with the stick, if reads low use tubing cutter on tube and shorten until reads spot on, if to high go to a you pull it and fing a shorter stick and and cut tube to read right, had to do this on my 2.8 engine because the org tube got broken when I sent the block out to be rebored, used a tube from a 2.9 ranger and had to cut over an inch off the tube to read right, good luck and looking good , later Blaine 😜

Thanks. That picture was pretty good to figure it out. But I guess I'll have to wait until oil is in it, but I like that idea of cutting the tube until it's in the right spot. I also like the idea using a 2.9 range stick.

Thanks everyone for all the help on this! Your experiences are certainly helping make this a simpler build. I still don't know about the block though.

oldkayaker · « **Reply #81 on:** March 19, 2015, 07:26:46 AM »

Assuming your concern about the block is for a future turbo addition. If you do add a turbo in the future, the turbo oil can be drained directly to the side of the oil pan. Either use a bulk head fitting or weld a fitting to the side of the pan above the oil level. Believe I read your engine had cast pistons which would need to be swapped for forged pistons to reliably tolerate boost. That would be a opportune time to add the drain to the pan. From reading forums, the turbo and non-turbo blocks are of equal strength so a turbo block is not needed to run a turbo.

dianne · « **Reply #82 on:** March 19, 2015, 07:31:50 AM »

Quote from: oldkayaker on March 19, 2015, 07:26:46 AM

Assuming your concern about the block is for a future turbo addition. If you do add a turbo in the future, the turbo oil can be drained directly to the side of the oil pan. Either use a bulk head fitting or weld a fitting to the side of the pan above the oil level. Believe I read your engine had cast pistons which would need to be swapped for forged pistons to reliably tolerate boost. That would be a opportune time to add the drain to the pan. From reading forums, the turbo and non-turbo blocks are of equal strength so a turbo block is not needed to run a turbo.

No, not going to turn it into a turbo. It's really just my second daily driver and maybe a show car. This is stamped as a turbo block, but didn't come with forged pistons. It looks like it was factory and I'll be at the shop today so I need to look at the ECM and see what it really came out of. I am assuming it did come out of an 89 Mustang Fox Body, and it's possible that the block was used in them. Seems the Lima engines can be all over the place I guess. I'm just happy to get it into working condition again with a modern (well more modern) engine with EFI and a computer. It should make the wagon a great car to drive

pinto_one · « **Reply #83 on:** March 19, 2015, 02:33:22 PM »

Yes Diane that engine was used in just about everything, generators , fork lifts, air compressors , and tugs that tow large aircraft, , here is one that is in the hanger , they will pick it up tomorrow to bring to another airport, my last day here is next Friday and the place will close forever , but on a good note I have two job offerings and just have to pick which one I want

dianne · « **Reply #84 on:** March 19, 2015, 09:42:10 PM »

Congratulation s!!! That had to be somewhat nerve racking to have gone through that process! Well, that's pretty cool really! There is one in a 46 Jeep here and I know it's a transplant. So are you a mechanic of some type? Good mechanics are hard to find I'm finding out. I have 2 good ones now and a shop monkey

That's pretty cool though

Did you want to do a 2.3 swap on that one LOL Just kidding

So what jobs can you have?

dianne · « **Reply #85 on:** March 20, 2015, 06:47:43 PM »

Almost ready to go into the car. All I need now is the car back from the paint shop and I have to pick up a cold air intake. Anyone have a good inexpensive one that works well?

It's almost there!

dianne · « **Reply #86 on:** March 20, 2015, 06:55:03 PM »

There are a lot of them out there. I did the ebay search:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Ford+2.3+EFI+cold+air+intake&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XFord+2.3+cold+air+intake.TRS0&_nkw=Ford+2.3+cold+air+intake&ghostText=&_sacat=0

A lot of cheap ones and a K&N at 170, over my budget right now. Are the cheaper ones as good, or are they Chinese crap? Anyone use one on their EFI? It supposedly adds some horsepower with the short headers and better gas mileage. What's your experiences on these?

pinto_one · « **Reply #87 on:** March 21, 2015, 04:08:04 PM »

Cheep and a good one would be from a 3.0 ford ranger around 94 to 2000, has the place to put your airflow sensor inside (to save room) and you can always buy a filter or at a later date install a K&N replacement , if you want I can research this for you to save time and money , later Blaine 😺

dianne · « **Reply #88 on:** March 21, 2015, 06:11:03 PM »

Quote from: pinto_one on March 21, 2015, 04:08:04 PM

Cheep and a good one would be from a 3.0 ford ranger around 94 to 2000, has the place to put your airflow sensor inside (to save room) and you can always buy a filter or at a later date install a K&N replacement , if you want I can research this for you to save time and money , later Blaine 😺

There was an after market one, but had K&N. I can look I guess, ebay and RockAuto

Thanks so much Blaine!

dianne · « **Reply #89 on:** June 15, 2015, 12:55:11 PM »

can the original c3 bolt up to the efi block and crank? I ask because when trying to install the c3 trans the torque converter pilot bottoms out on the crank and binds the motor. i know the cranks are different and the c3 converter pilot is different from the c4 converter pilot. or am i just missing something here? and yes the converter is seated all the way in the trans. (i checked multiple times.)
(this is Aaron, diannes mechanic btw)

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Author Topic: 2.3 EFI 1987 Mustang Pinto swap into a 79 Pinto (Read 25786 times)