PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => Your Project => Topic started by: Alpine615 on May 21, 2012, 03:28:19 PM
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Hello everyone,
I have been a registered user of FordPinto.com for almost 9 years now, and this is my first post. I can remember the days of the animated braking and accelerating Pinto in the upper right corner of the homepage, complete with sound effects! While I have had a small presence over at TurboFord.org, for reasons unknown to me, I haven't been active here. Well, that is going to change right now. I recently read all 13 pages of r4pinto's 1977 project thread, and it motivated me to start writing down my thoughts, progress (and eventual failures) of my own project, a blue 1980 Runabout that I've dreamt of turbocharging for the last decade. It was only recently that I've had designs on making my baby a faux-ESS model, as I just happened to find some emblems on eBay. I am still looking for the ever-elusive all glass hatch, so if anyone out there has one for sale (plus the hardware), PM me or send me a note at snatkins5@gmail.com.
I came to love Pintos at an early age. My dad would drive me around in our 1980 Sedan on weekends to get haircuts, go to church (and then get donuts at a local bakery afterwards), etc. My older brother was given the keys when he got his license, and then he passed it down to my sister when he left for college. When she graduated high school, I was next in line but I would have to wait 2 years until I got my driver's permit. I spent some time doing minor improvements to our Pinto. I replaced burnt out light bulbs and fuses, had a CD player and speakers installed, and kept the car clean and waxed. Two months before my 16th birthday, my father sent the car to be tuned up (in anticipation of me taking the keys). When we got it back, my dad said "it was running better than it ever had." It ran so well, that he decided to take it to work one day, and while driving home, he was T-boned by someone running a stop sign. Thankfully, my dad was ok, but the car was totaled.
Needless to say, I was crushed. We had our mechanic salvage any parts he could from the car, in the hopes that if I ever did find another Pinto I could have some spares. Then one day, I was browsing the Ford Pinto Showcase's "Pintos for Sale" section (now defunct) and came across a beautiful, 1980 Runabout with under 30,000 original miles! The interior and exterior (same color - Bright Blue) were PERFECT! I couldn't believe it. The seller, a Mustang guy, said his wife was forcing him to sell one of his cars, and we nabbed it for $1000. It had a problem with stalling at low RPMs (especially when in reverse) but it got me to and from school during my senior year. And then, in the summer between my freshman and sophomore years of college, I decided that I would give this little Pony some much-needed upgrades...
After doing a lot of research on Turboford, I found an '88 Turbocoupe for sale in North Philly (about 35-40 minutes away) for $800. A friend and I pulled the 2.3 motor and T5 tranny out of that Tbird, as well as the 8.8" rear end (not sure why, though :P ). We dismantled the engine, and had the block hot-tanked and bored .030", the crankshaft balanced and the head rebuilt with a Ranger roller cam by a local machine shop. We took care of the the rest. However, the engine still sits in my garage waiting to be installed in the car. Problem was, I didn't keep the old front sump oil pan! We were stuck. I couldn't find anyone selling one at the time, and summer was drawing to a close. I went back up to school, was broke from buying the Thunderbird, and the car (and engine) have sat in my parents' garage for almost a decade.
I've been intermittently searching for parts, but since graduating from college time and money have been scarce. I've had (and summarily been laid off from) 3 different jobs. A few years back, I was able to order a Pinto oil pan from a junkyard on car-part.com, but other than that, my situation hasn't allowed for any progress to be made. All the pan needs is a good blasting, a coat of paint, and it'll be ready to go.
Well, I am happy to say that I have found gainful employment once again, albeit it on a contract basis. The Pinto (and I) still reside at home with my parents, but they are starting to think about moving. I need to get some wheels back on this car, and soon. I am now making the time to work on my baby, and saving every penny I can towards the project.
Initially I was going to do a T5 swap, but recently decided I would keep the auto tranny for ease of mounting / no tunnel cutting. I thought the C3 that came with the car would be weak, so I picked up an increasingly rare C4 from a junkyard about 2 hours away. It was recently rebuilt by a local transmission shop with a Stage II shift kit and 2500 stall converter, and is ready to be bolted up.
I was told a while back that I'd want to swap out the 6-3/4" Pinto rear with an 8" unit from a Mustang II. Finding one with a posi was impossible, so since time is a factor on this project, I'm thinking of spending the money and having one built by a guy 30 minutes from me. Just need to scrape the cash together, once I figure out the tire issue (see below).
I am replacing most of the suspension system as well. All of the rusted parts have been removed, save for the strut rods. I purchased new control arms with urethane bushings, rear leafs, bushings and shackles, and 2 sets of KYB gas shocks (front and rear). The front coils are corroded, but they might clean up with some blasting and powder coating. Otherwise, I'll be looking to buy a pair of Eaton springs.
I still need to figure out the best tires to put on this car. I'll try to explain my thought process as best I can, concisely...
* With turbo'd engine, I will want wider tires for traction and bigger brakes for stopping power
* Wider tires and larger disc brakes up front require larger wheels
* I know that the Wilwood 11" big brake kit will fit inside American Racing 15" Ansen Sprint rims (I love the vintage/stock look)
* What size tires can I get for these wheels that won't rub the inner fender wells or suspension components?? :o
Still to come:
- Replace the IHI turbo that came from the Tbird with a Garrett T3/T4 hybrid
- FMIC
- Larger fuel injectors and Walbro 255lph fuel pump
- 65mm throttle body
- 3" exhaust
- Mega Squirt N Spark
- MSD Ignition
- Install Sports Instrumentatio n Package. I purchased the gauges, dashpad and sport steering wheel on eBay years ago, in the early 2000's
- Repair seat upholstery and install new carpeting (headliner is beautiful, even after 32 years)
- Install flip-open rear quarter windows, another eBay purchase
- Eventually I'd like to have the rust spots that have shown up taken care of (there are few, but the biggest is a quarter-sized hole in the passenger door) and have the car painted white (something about white with black trim accents and red center caps screams "sexy" to me)
- Full "ESS" paint job for car: black paint / powder coating for the sport mirrors, grille, headlamp doors, rear taillight panel, and windshield, door and window trim (finishing touch will be those emblems I mentioned earlier)
If you have made it this far, I congratulate you! I apologize for the lengthy post, but remember, I haven't posted once in 9 years, so I figured this might average it out. ;D If you can help me with my tire issue or have an all glass hatch for sale, please let me know.
I will try to post some pictures later tonight.
Thanks for reading!
-Steve
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Hey Steve!
Even though you've been here for quite a while, I'll officially welcome you now that you've broken your long silence. Loved the story of how you came to Pintos.
Dwayne :)
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why not use the 8.8? i did in mine..... get the axles and drum brakes from a mustang, the mustang axles shorten the rear by3/4 inch each side..... either 7.5 or 8.8 the axles and brakes interchange between the two... strip the control arm mounts off it and weld on spring perches... that what i used...and im running 15x8 rims with 255-60-15s out back and they dont stick out the sides....its a good strong rear that is easy to get parts for...
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Hi Dwayne, thanks for the warm welcome! Did I read on r4pinto's project thread that you will be attending Carlisle this year? I will be there, most likely on Saturday, maybe even Sunday too.
Hey Steve, thanks for the tip! Your suggestion would definitely save me a lot cash. I remember in the course of my initial turbo research that the 8.8 rear could be modified to fit in the Pinto, but at this point I might just be looking for a bolt-in solution. Haha I just found this post on TFord...
http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=053764 (http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=053764)
Parents are aiming to list the house by mid-August and the Pinto is not the only thing on my plate. :-\ I know where I could pick up the axle shafts, drums and perches, but it's the welding that worries me as I don't have the skills or the equipment. As you mention in that post, I would have to have that done professionally . I will look into this further, however, and let you know if I decide to go this route. As for Carlisle, do you have any plans to attend? I'd love to see your '75 sedan!
-Steve
PS - I spent my night cleaning off all the grime from the oil pan so I can have it blasted, so I didn't get a chance to post any pics. I'll make it a priority when I get off of work. I had forgotten about the small dings and dents in the pan and on the lip, and rediscovered them last night. When I do get to posting some pics, can anyone tell me if I should be concerned?
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Hi Dwayne, thanks for the warm welcome! Did I read on r4pinto's project thread that you will be attending Carlisle this year? I will be there, most likely on Saturday, maybe even Sunday too.
Sorry... I usually try to make it to Carlisle, but won't be able to this year. I'm pretty well tied up trying to be caregiver to my mother (Alzheimer's), sister (Spina Bifida), and wife (stroke). I'm hoping things will get better eventually - I miss going to car shows.
Dwayne :)
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Wow Steve, your Pinto story is definitely a cool one. Good luck with the mods to be done with your car. Hopefully it's in much better shape than my car was at first. I dunno how you managed to read my entire post but by hat's off to ya lol. The work on it never stops. My Dad & I will be doing to Carlisle again this year so I'll look for your car there. What area are you coming from?
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Dwayne, I'm so sorry...
My thoughts and prayers go out to you and your family.
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Hi Matt,
Unfortunately, with all of the things I need to get done, there is no chance my Pinto will be at Carlisle this year - I will just be there spectating. However, it is a goal of mine to not only register for Carlisle next year, but also join the Pinto Stampede!
As for your thread, it was definitely long, but it contained a lot of good information. "The work never stops" is an understatement, given all the things you had to tackle with your car, but Harold II looks great. I look forward to meeting the three of you (you, your dad and Harold) at Carlisle.
-Steve
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We're glad to have ya here ;D We all like to have fun & if the long threads help you out that's even better. I hear the stampede is a lot of fun & can tell you the Ford show at Carlisle is a blast.
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These will have to do for now...
There are others I am thinking of and they might be on an old computer somewhere.
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/SmallPinto002.jpg)
This image was selected for the 2004 calendar, I believe... (photo taken at Valley Forge Park)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/SmallPinto003.jpg)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/BeforeWork.jpg)
Pulled into the garage, ready for dismantling... (notice the TC engine block on the stand wrapped in a trash bag :P )
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/DriverShot.jpg)
I don't remember the driver's seat looking that bad...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/DriverView.jpg)
Perfect dashcap and steering wheel...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/FinalOdometerReading.jpg)
30,563.3
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/OldCenterConsole.jpg)
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Nice looking car! My family had a '79 Bobcat that color back in the day.
Dwayne :)
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Thanks Dwayne! :)
Last night I tried getting the strut rods out but found that they just spin when unattached. ::) Tried jamming a spare tired in between the strut and the frame, but no go. I think I'll need to temporarily attach the lower control arm, and then bolt the strut to it, to get it out. Dumb mistake, should've loosened it first before removing the rest.
And come to think of it, the first photo might have been in the 2005 calendar,not 2004. I still have it somewhere, probably in storage.
Hope everyone has a great day!
-Steve
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Wow that car is sharp! Perfect dash is one thing but perfect steering wheel? Nice!! You got a real gem there. No rust I take?
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Unfortunately, even though it's been garaged for the last 9 years, it does have a little bit of rust in the places you'd expect... along the wheel wells, the rockers, and the corners of the doors. The underbody was coated in Quaker State MetalGard (the rear quarter windows proudly display stickers) so the floor boards are clean, thankfully. I know you've dealt with rusty floors, and that does not look fun at all!
There are some minor dents on the body from the previous owner, so I was planning on having work done anyway, this will just end up adding to the cost. :-\
However, I know it could be worse...
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nice wheels man. looks good for its age. tho i love the Alpine sterio =D
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Thanks 75bobcat!
I needed that thing in high school, as the factory AM/FM radio was crap. Funny thing is, I don't own CDs anymore! I do have an Alpine "media player" in my daily driver, that I will swap over once this car is up and running again.
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im running a pioneer deh-1800 atm. i will be adding 2 8in subs in the back of the wagon in subZERO boxes =D
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So I know I still haven't posted pics of my oil pan, but I'm thinking I'd like to ask around the board and see if anyone has an extra they'd be willing to sell. I will also create a post on the Parts Wanted forum. Please contact me at snatkins5@gmail.com.
Thanks!
-Steve
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why not use the 8.8? i did in mine..... get the axles and drum brakes from a mustang, the mustang axles shorten the rear by3/4 inch each side..... either 7.5 or 8.8 the axles and brakes interchange between the two... strip the control arm mounts off it and weld on spring perches... that what i used...and im running 15x8 rims with 255-60-15s out back and they dont stick out the sides....its a good strong rear that is easy to get parts for...
Hey Pinturbo,
Where did you cut your axle housing? At the flange end or somewhere in the middle of the tubes and weld back together? It's been awhile since I've looked at my 8.8, so I'm wondering how you accounted for the axle bearings near the ends of the housing.
Also, as I mentioned earlier, I don't have the skills of equipment to cut and weld, so will any capable machine shop be able to do this for me? Or do I need to look for a speciality shop?
Thanks!
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You dont even have to cut the axle tubes.Our 71 IMSA RS Pinto
has a stock length Fox 7.5 under it. With the factory 10 holes
(15 x 7) we run a 9.5x23.5 cantaliever sidewall om them.
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like 99 said, you dont need to cut the axle, just cut off all the mounts for the fox body control arms and weld on some spring perches....mat ch the pinion angle of the origonal rear end and mount it up... with mustang drum brakes even the parking brake cables work..
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Thanks racer and pinturbo for your replies. Sorry for my delay in responding, but this is something I will definitely look into as it could save me a lot of $$$ over having a custom 8" rear built.
A quick update on my project:
I gave my Pinto a much needed bath about two weeks ago, and it's amazing how nicely she cleaned up. I somehow feel more motivated than ever to get to work on her, seeing her all shiny again.
I was also able to remove the strut rods by temporarily re-attaching the lower control arms and using my electric impact wrench. They appear to OK, only a minor amount of corrosion. Hopefully they'll clean up with a little bit of blasting...
...Which is why I recently purchased an air compressor and some tools so that I can blast the surface rust from some of the rear suspension hardware as well (upper and lower shock mounting plates, etc.) My intention is to get all those parts as clean as possible, and then have them powder coated. Once everything is coated, I'll swap in the new control arms, leaf springs and front & rear shocks. Polyurethane all around up front too...
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Finally, to all of those I met at Carlisle:
Matt, it was a pleasure to meet you and your dad. I hope you made it back to Ohio safely...
Norm, it was good to see you on Friday. Although, where were you on Saturday? I didn't see you or the Boss Pinto and I returned to PCCA tent 2 or 3 times! :)
Phil, I hope my contribution to the WWP helps, and seeing your "museum quality" Pinto was the highlight of the weekend...
To Harold, Skip and Bill, I know you aren't on the boards much, but if you read this, please know it was my absolute pleasure to meet and speak with you. I will definitely stay in touch for advice, encouragement, etc...
-Steve
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Steve, it was great to meet you at Carlisle this past weekend. Dad & I made it back to Ohio just fine. The car is undergoing some brake work before I drive it again. Looking forward to hearing more about your car. ;D
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just a quick question,,,, i re-read your initial post and you said you did a 30 over bore.... what pistons did you use? im hoping not hypers....... they are not suitable for a turbo app... even if the machine shop said they would work they wont.....so hopefully you got some forged ones in there....
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just a quick question,,,, i re-read your initial post and you said you did a 30 over bore.... what pistons did you use? im hoping not hypers....... they are not suitable for a turbo app... even if the machine shop said they would work they wont.....so hopefully you got some forged ones in there....
Yarghhh, that they are. Chalk it up to inexperience at age 18, I guess... ::)
I just searched quickly and found a bunch of forged pistons at Summit, but I would gladly accept advice on the best brand/vendor...
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me personally, im running weisco flat=tops BUT!!!! im running a standalone ecu and e85... so i have a way to tune for my setup... if youre using a stock ecu id look for a set of either diamond or cp pistons..... both are nice quality... cp is more expensive.... if youre using stock rods id just give them a call, most of their off the shelf pistons are for floating rods.....
speedpro pistons shown on summit havent been made for nearly 5 years now even though they show them on the site...... soooo.... take a look at what i suggested and figure what you can afford.... theyre gonna be near 500 with rings...
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Huzzah! Thank God I took pictures!
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/DSC01147-Rotated.jpg)
Had to rotate the image 180, but if you were to zoom in on the pic, the piston reads 'L2500F 75MM', which when looked up on the Fed Mogul site, comes out to be a forged piston. Whew! ::)
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cool deal,,,,, youre golden then.......
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Does anyone know what the orange bushing is called that is crumbling in my hands in the picture below? I took this picture while disconnecting the steering column from the steering rack. I've searched on RockAuto and can't seem to find it, but it is apparent I will need a new one!
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/IMG_0611.jpg)
Edit: Added a second image.
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/IMG_0610.jpg)
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That WAS your steering coupler. It's also called a rag joint. Someone on here may know the part number but it's one of those HELP packages at the parts store. They have several different bolt spacings. The ones I found on Ebay required a minor elongation of the holes but thats no big deal.
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I was wondering if the "bushing" as I was calling it was sold separately, but now I have my answer. Thanks!
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same here, help section and had to slightly modify it....
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Don't bother with NOS Ford ones. That nylon material doesn't like underhood heat & eventually crumbles. My draw thru turbo pipe cooked mine worse than yours was. The HELP parts are rubber & will hold up much better in the heat.
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I found the old pictures I was looking for...
The first is a shot of my brother (sitting on bumper) and I standing in front of the beach house my parents rented one summer...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PahelaParkPinto-1.jpg)
And the second is a shot of both Pintos (the one on the left is the one my dad was T-boned in) in our driveway... I wished I knew more about cars at this point, because I would've stripped so much more off the wrecked Pinto than the shop did, that's for sure...
(EDIT: This picture is pre-salvage. We got the hood, driver's side door, rear quarter windows, rear glass, lots of mechanicals and interior pieces, etc...)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/TwoPintos001-1.jpg)
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Wow, it's been almost a month since my last post! I have been busy accumulating lots of parts that I need, including:
- 15" x 7" American Racing Ansen Sprint wheels with a 5 x 4.5" BC from Summit Racing
- 205/65-R15 tires from a friend's old car, just to roll the chassis around on; the engine is still a long ways from actually running
- 11" Mustang II Disc Brake Kit + SS brake lines from RJay's Speedshop
- Pinto/Mustang II control arm kit from Speedway Motors
- 45.5" Aerostar Aluminum driveshaft from local pick-n-pull + new U-joints and U-bolts from RockAuto
- Ford 8" rear with TracLoc posi and 3.25:1 gear ratio (I wanted to modify the 8.8" from the 88 TC, but time was the ultimate factor...I'll save that for my next project)
- New axle pads from ESPO Springs N Things
- New leaf springs from JC Whitney
- New shackles & hangers from CarParts.com
- Every kind of polyurethane bushing that Energy Suspension makes for the Pinto
- Rubber steering rack bushings & sleeves from RockAuto
- Help! steering coupler from AutoZone
- A front sump oil pan, oil pickup tube and various chassis and trim pieces from Fred Morgan (thanks again, Fred!)
- And finally, today I plan to order a rear disc brake kit from The Streetrod Manufacturing Company, minus the calipers and pads. For those, I'll be going to RockAuto again, as they are a bit cheaper.
Last night I tackled a problem that's been a major thorn in my side. The driver's side steering rack sleeve and bolt were absolutely frozen together; no amount of WD-40, P.Blaster, Kroil or even map gas would unstick them... So my buddy and I resorted to using a Dremel to cut up the length of the sleeve, and finally we were able to hammer the damn thing out. The threads on the bolt are horribly corroded though, and I'm not sure if it can be salvaged. This may be a stupid question, but where does one go to purchase replacement fasteners for the steering rack? I've looked through the ARP catalog, but they only appear to sell drivetrain-related fasteners...
I expect by the end of next week to have the engine and transmission mounted, all new suspension and brakes installed, and to mount those tires on my new rims. I am horrible at posting pics, but I will try to post some by the end of this week.
Cheers!
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I'm toying with the idea of getting a remanufactured steering rack, as practically everything else going into my car is new or rebuilt. I'm not 100% on it though...the money is starting to dry up. :(
So my question is: does anyone know the length of the steering rack input shaft for a 1980? RockAuto lists three types for power steering racks:
- TRW gear with 2-1/4" input shaft
- Ford gear with 2" input shaft
- Unnamed gear with 1-1/4" input shaft
I think I read that 1978 and up use the Ford CII (or C2) gear, but that only eliminates one of the above choices. I suppose I could dismantle the unit I have and measure, but I'm not sure how easy or hard it would be. If someone were able to tell me that would save me some time and frustration. Any replies are very much appreciated!
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Steve
I just did this and looked up the paperwork
#22-200 w/1-1/4 imput shaft. Includes inner
tie rods w/ 2 or 3 mounting holes-are interchangable .
It lists for 242.99 w/ a 91.00 core charge. I paid 115.00
from a friend in the business. He didn't charge me for the
core, but I owe him the old one or one just like it. It was
one of the nicest things I've done for my 79 wagon yet.
If you need more info call me. If you don't have my #
anymore p/m me and I'll send it to you.
Bill
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Hi Bill,
Thanks for the info! I do still have your number, I will try to give you a call tomorrow.
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Last night I installed the front stabilizer bar and upper and lower control arms. This afternoon I'm hoping to get the rest of the front suspension installed. I also think I found a suitable replacement bolt for the steering rack. Grainger sells all sorts of industrial strength hardware, which is exactly what I wanted; and not the crap from Home Depot.
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Sooo had a slight setback on Friday night. First, I found out that the stabilizer bar tends to get in the way when installing the rest of the front suspension, so I removed that. No big deal. Well, then I tried to use a jack to raise the lower control arm & compress the coil spring, and the whole car began to lift off of the jackstands!! Looks like I will need to put the engine and transmission in first to help give the car some front end weight.
New order of operations is this: install steering rack & steering column, engine and transmission, THEN front suspension.
I feel kinda stupid posting this, but as I said from the beginning, I am learning as I go along and this will be a catalog of all my successes AND failures... :P
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I installed my front suspension with my engine/trans. removed. I put my jack under the ball joint & it went together easily. Make sure the spring is fully seated at the top & clocked properly so the end of the coil will seat in the notch on the control arm.
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/Pinto/003-7.jpg)
Get it to this point with the jack in place then.....
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/Pinto/007-5.jpg)
Simply jack it up until the upper ball joint goes into the spindle & spin the nut on.
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Pinto5.0 - That's brilliant, thank you for the advice and photos. Will give that a try this weekend, hopefully sooner.
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Pinto5.0 - That's brilliant, thank you for the advice and photos. Will give that a try this weekend, hopefully sooner.
I hope it works for you. Mine snapped together like Lego pieces on the 1st try. Make sure you either leave the grease fitting out or use a THICK towel under the ball joint so you don't snap the Zerk off.
I'm assuming you are running 4-cyl. springs. I don't think V-8 springs go in without banding them.
When you jack it up to the point where the front is about to lift off the jackstands you should be able to pull the upper control arm down enough to start the nut on the ball joint. Just be sure you have the bottom coil lined up with the notch, otherwise that side of the car will sit a little high & there is no way to spin the spring to correct it unless you disassemble it again.
Also check the rubber spring pads at the top before you install the springs. Replace them if they are shot so it doesn't squeak. If one is bad change them both or you will have a slight height difference as well.
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During my failed attempt at compressing the spring, I was concerned about damaging the grease fitting, so I placed the floor jack on the front lip of the lower arm...a little too dicey for my liking, as I was lined up directly with the spring (as opposed to your picture, where you go in from the side.) One small slip and that spring could've expanded with explosive force. I like your method because it gives more support to the arm, but I agree I'll need to remove or protect the fitting.
10-4 on lining up the bottom of the coil with the notch in the lower arm. I think I want to replace both rubber spring pads (coil spring insulator, as RockAuto lists it) but the picture looks different from what I removed from my car (I'll upload a pic when I get home tonight). Can you, or anyone else, provide a replacement part # (like Dorman/Help!)?
And yes, I am re-using the stock springs, which have been coated with Eastwood rubberized rust encapsulator.
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During my 1st attempt at installing the coils I had the jack where you tried but it lifted the car so I went to the end under the ball joint for more leverage.
I wire wheeled my stock springs & drowned them in chassis black. I also re-used my isolators since they were still pliable & showed no sign of deterioration.
I picked up isolators off Ebay for 20 bucks. They were an exact match for the stockers. Here's the link. I don't think Dorman makes them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MUSTANG-II-COIL-SPRING-CUSHIONS-PADS-GASKETS-1-PAIR-/300745526979?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4605d48ec3 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MUSTANG-II-COIL-SPRING-CUSHIONS-PADS-GASKETS-1-PAIR-/300745526979?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4605d48ec3)
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Good deal, I just used Buy It Now on a pair of them for $20...they should arrive Monday.
My old isolators are still pliable, but are showing signs of cracking. I'm sure they would still be fine, but as I mentioned in a previous post, practically everything else that is going in this car has been replaced. Once you start, it's hard to stop...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/565.jpg)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/566.jpg)
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While I was snapping pics of my coil spring insulators last night, I decided to I would clean up and take pictures of my recent "haul" out to Michigan. I met up with Bill (blink77) and his wife, Sally, to pick up some parts from him. Why wouldn't I have him ship them, instead? Because one of them was this:
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/570.jpg)
Bill said he didn't want to ship the all-glass hatch, and I don't blame him! Years ago I bought one from Oregon and it broke during shipment. Luckily it was insured, and I got my money back, but these suckers are tough to locate. And when you do, they are usually half a world away! I also purchased front and rear Rallye spoilers, deluxe door panels, wood grain A/T shifter & bezel and a Mustang II center console. In between grabbing parts for me, Bill was showing me all of their rides, all wagons: a red '79 with vented hood, a '77 pro-stock with '79/'80 fenders, and a '76 with a Mustang V8 in it. I couldn't be happier with my purchases, and it was a pleasure to spend part of my afternoon with Bill and Sally, who were very welcoming...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/567.jpg)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/568.jpg)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/569.jpg)
After I loaded up my purchases, I took a 45 minute detour further north into Michigan to meet mrskydog (Kirk) to see his 1980 Rallye first-hand. All I can say is, wow! What a beautiful car! I posted a separate album, see this link: [size=78%]http://photobucket.com/80rallye (http://photobucket.com/80rallye)[/size]
It was a looong journey, but well worth it. Thank you to Bill, Sally and Kirk!
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Steve what a great find on the spoilers Very Nice! it was worth the trip. Hope to meet up once the car is complete again.....Kirk
;D
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going all glass hatch I see. I dunno if I would wanna do that with mine. I like the rallye look but not sure about the all glass back
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Yeah I've wanted the all-glass look for a very long time. And it wasn't until recently that I found ESS emblems on eBay. But now that I have the Rallye spoiler, I am not sure what I want to do. I think getting the side lettering and stripes reproduced will be extremely expensive, if anyone can/will even do it. I've contacted Phoenix Graphix, but haven't heard back yet.
Anyway, the exterior is the last thing I should be worried about. Three weeks until the parents' house is listed. Ahhh!
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Yeah I've wanted the all-glass look for a very long time. And it wasn't until recently that I found ESS emblems on eBay. But now that I have the Rallye spoiler, I am not sure what I want to do. I think getting the side lettering and stripes reproduced will be extremely expensive, if anyone can/will even do it. I've contacted Phoenix Graphix, but haven't heard back yet.
Anyway, the exterior is the last thing I should be worried about. Three weeks until the parents' house is listed. Ahhh!
Just do what I'm doing & make it your own. My '80 has some interesting options of it's own so I'm keeping the stock interior & exterior treatments down to the side stripes. I like the Rallye spoilers so I'm adding them on but I'm modifying the rear to work with my steel hatch. I also have one of Map's ducktail spoilers that may get used if I like the look better with the rear window louvers.
'77 tail lights & bumpers are going on & I have a steel 2" cowl induction scoop that I'm going to weld on to the hood to clear the eventual turbo addition & I may add a filler door over the gas cap since I have pinholes around my gas cap & need to fix it anyhow. That's it, just some changes to set it apart & personalize it to my tastes.
Do the blackouts around the side windows & paint the Rallye stripes at the bottom without the word "RALLYE" & same for the spoiler on the back. Make it stand apart from a real one with minor changes.
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Steve-- Glad everybody is happy. That must be
your girlfriends cat (now your best friend). Nice
looking cat. But you know we love cats. I wish I
had gone with you to Kirk's. But, he is close enough
that I'll see that great car somewhere along the way.
I was happy to meet you and I think the right guy got
the parts. Sally says Hi!! Good luck with the house and
finding a place for your Pinto and your stash of parts.
You are one dedicated guy!!! Keep in touch.
Bill
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Long time, no updates...sorr y 'bout that! I tried doing what Pinto5.0 suggested with my front coils, but the car still began to lift off the jackstands! :-\ So I backed it down and will try again once the engine and trans are in. I don't know why it didn't work for me, but I will upload a pic later tonight.
On the to-do list this afternoon:
- Install the steering rack, hook it up to the steering joint
- Lower in the engine/trans and bolt up
- Install the driver's seat and steering wheel
Next week:
- Front suspension??? :)
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Just do what I'm doing & make it your own. My '80 has some interesting options of it's own so I'm keeping the stock interior & exterior treatments down to the side stripes. I like the Rallye spoilers so I'm adding them on but I'm modifying the rear to work with my steel hatch. I also have one of Map's ducktail spoilers that may get used if I like the look better with the rear window louvers.
'77 tail lights & bumpers are going on & I have a steel 2" cowl induction scoop that I'm going to weld on to the hood to clear the eventual turbo addition & I may add a filler door over the gas cap since I have pinholes around my gas cap & need to fix it anyhow. That's it, just some changes to set it apart & personalize it to my tastes.
Do the blackouts around the side windows & paint the Rallye stripes at the bottom without the word "RALLYE" & same for the spoiler on the back. Make it stand apart from a real one with minor changes.
Yeah, I think more than anything I like the blackout treatments, which shouldn't be hard to replicate (especially since I have great reference photos from mrskydog's Rallye.) And I have always liked the Rallye package, but also I was thinking it would be a crime to remove (a.k.a. destroy) the Rallye tape stripe on the spolier and re-paint it to match.
It is obviously a decision that will have to be made a little further down the road, and I have other things to focus on. We've already had to call off the realtor walk-through because the car can't be rolled out of the garage, but we still may make the desired listing date of 15-Aug. Wish me luck! :)
By the way, what you have already and what you plan to do sound awesome! I have to find it again, but I read your posts about the car a while back and I really dig the interior. Black and gold!
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That sucks that it wouldn't go together easily. Too bad you don't have a couple buddies who can come over & sit on the core support to add some weight.
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Last week was huge. My friend came over and we installed the engine & transmission (even if only temporary), and then proceeded to install the coil springs!! Even with the weight of (most of) the engine, he still had to stand on the car to weigh it down further. I managed to jack up the lower control arm on the ball joint (with the grease fitting removed, of course) and thread the castle nut on the upper ball joint, connecting the spindle to both arms. FINALLY!
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums014.jpg)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums019.jpg)
Then, this past Monday I put in the shocks and strut rods (not a great picture, I'll admit)...and as a bonus I put the driver's seat back in...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums021.jpg)
Later this week: front brakes, sway bar + linkages, modify the Pinto spring plates for the 2-3/4" U-bolts (for 8" rear end), bolt up the rear and do the rear brakes...phew!
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Coming together nicely.
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MAJOR UPDATE!
Car has steering, suspension, brakes, wheels & tires installed! Photobucket was giving me trouble at work, and then wouldn't upload on my cell phone and I wanted to wait to post until I could show pictures! Feast yer eyes...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums039.jpg)
Front passenger side...11" Granada rotor with small GM caliper
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums041.jpg)
Rear driver side parking brake cable (temporary fix, hahaha ;D )
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums040.jpg)
Test-fitting the 15" Ansen Sprint rims
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums037.jpg)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums.jpg)
Tires mounted
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More pics...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums022.jpg)
On the ground for the first time in 9-1/2 years!!!
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums025.jpg)
Pushed it outside to give it some fresh air...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums026.jpg)
The next morning...
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums035.jpg)
Now it sits in its new home: my friend's garage...but for how long?? :o
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums042.jpg)
Celebration time! 8)
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That's looking really nice! What size are those wheels? They look sharp on there. Then again they are similar to the design of the alloys ;D
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That's looking really nice! What size are those wheels? They look sharp on there. Then again they are similar to the design of the alloys ;D
Thanks, Matt! They are 15" rims...rear discs are 11" or 11.25" (same as front) and they BARELY clear the small GM caliper...
And the fact that they look like the optional 13" alloys from Ford was the major reason I bought them. They will look even better when I can have some small screw holes drilled in them so I can install my Granada 5-lug center caps and get rid of the cheap, plastic ones that came with it!
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p573/Alpine615/PintoForums046.jpg)
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Good deal! I got a LOT of work to do to my alloys to make them look good but it will be worth it in the end. Just sticking with the 13s on the car.
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Wow! I can't believe I've been away from this thread since AUGUST! Time flies, but I don't know if the past 3 months have been all that fun..
Anyway, a quick update on my project. The car's been sitting in my friend's garage for the past 3 months, stayed safe during Superstorm Sandy, and is patiently waiting to be worked on. I recently ordered a set of "flip flanges" from a guy on the Turbo Ranger Forums (AJ Fritz) that will allow me to rotate the exhaust manifold 180*. (Hat tip to Pinturbo for posting this info on another thread!) I had done some rough fitment measurements, and I think this will work. My reasoning for going this route was I was hoping to avoid cutting the inner passenger fender where the battery normally rests to make room for a turbo in the "stock" location. Also, I should be able to keep my heater.
I also picked up a used T3 that began its life on a 1982 Datsun 280ZX, and will be looking to rebuild it over the holidays. I plan on measuring the space for a FMIC, and fabricate mounting brackets as well. I've read that a 25" x 12" x 3" would fit nicely. (eBay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160654709024?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/160654709024?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)) Once that's installed, and the manifold and turbo are mounted, I can start to figure out how I want to route the piping. I still need to figure out the upper intake (from the '88 TC) and how much to rotate it for the FMIC. There's another eBay auction I have saved for this work, since I can't do it myself. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/150745265601?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/150745265601?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649))
I should be able to add pictures in the coming weeks.
-Steve
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I should be able to add pictures in the coming weeks.
I am such a friggin' liar! Haha
Well, while I've been absolutely negligent in updating this thread (and adding pictures), I have been carving out some time to do small things here and there for the project, and mostly parts-gathering. Here's a summary for the last couple of months:
- Test fit the manifold and flanges, as well as the Datsun T3. I clocked the CHRA to point down and towards the inner passenger fender. Definitely enough room there to turn 90* to face the intercooler.
- Attempted to measure how much would need to be cut out of the upper intake to clear the stock hood. Ended up talking to Steve (Pinturbo) and BoPort about it. Just gonna have Bo do the gutting/rotating, I think.
Funny story: when I took off the lower intake manifold to prep to send to Bo, I discovered the a rodent's nest! Gonna have to take the head off and break out the air compressor to clean everything out.......what a PITA!
- Lastly I've managed to get most of the parts required to do the EDIS conversion, although I still need a dual serpentine crank pulley to be able to run the Ranger passenger side alternator properly. Otherwise, it would be driver off the water pump pulley and I don't think that's desirable. Gonna try to hit the local pick-n-pull yard this weekend to rip one off a Fox body Mustang.
I find out sometime this month about a contract extension with my job, and I've been told it just needs to be processed through the system. When it goes through, I'll be picking up the "big ticket items" to keep the project moving. Once the weather warms up I expect there to be some serious progress. Whether I'll actually post pictures up, we'll see... :D
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youre gonna need the pullies and crank hub off a ranger or a stang with dis setup... the pullies off the distributor 2.3s sits in a different location...
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Thanks for the heads-up, Steve! I'll report back once I get a chance to go to the yard...
Also, you've got mail.
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Well I went to the junkyard today and turns out the last "mechanic" that touched this particular Mustang already unbolted the crank pulley for me! So now all I had to do was get the hub. Cordless impact wrench from Harbor Freight for the WIN! After switching between clockwise and counterclockwi se motion for a minute, the bolt began to back out.
However...I could not get that hub to come off. I tried gently prying with a flat screwdriver, I tried my slide hammer (and ended up slightly bending the thing)...so now I'm at a loss...
I read a post on AllFordMustang s that said to thread the crank bolt back in a little (without the washer) and use the jaws on the INSIDE, but I ran out of time today...hopefu lly it's all still there next time I can come back (probably sometime in April)...
Also, Photobucket is down at the moment...maybe I can add pics tomorrow or Monday.
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Hey Alpine. Was searching through old posts and noticed it had been quite some time since anything was done. Were you able to get anything done to the car? Hopefully better luck than I had with my 1980 lol
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AN ESS Pinto has to be as rare as a Group 2 Pinto I would think. I've only seen one ever. Hope it got finished and being driven.