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Ranger RR Cam and Big valves? Worth it or not?

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I have a 80 pinto trunk model with 2.3 in it, T 5 trans, Ranger 3:73 rear axle. I'm about to do head work on it and was wondering about something. I have a roller Ranger cam I plan on installing in it but I thought I might as well go with bigger valves and double springs while I'm in there. chambers will be polished, un-shrouded and CC done to the head. Runners in the intake side of the head will be cleaned up and exhaust will be polished and top of port raised for flow. My question is will I gain any from the bigger valves with that cam or am I wasting my time doing this with a RR cam?  The head is a D port head that is port matched to a t-bird lower intake with a Holley 350 on it. On the exhaust I have a Ranger header going to 2.5 inch exhaust to a glass pack dumping under car. No real rules apply here as its just a fun car I drive and enjoy. I am attempting to keep it mildly street able and not kill my wallet. The lower end is stock for now. distributor will get an Electronic update soon.

Thoughts and suggestions are welcome.  ;D

With the ranger roller cam double springs would not gain you anything as the cam is a low rpm torque cam. Double springs are needed for an all out race 2300. On the street they would be useless and only add to the cam's wear. Same thing with the larger valves. With that cam you already have more flow than the cam can stand. Biggest go fast help for a street Pinto is a 10 pound flywheel. With a stock cam or the Ranger cam you have too big an exhaust system on your car. 2 1/2" dia tubing is way to big when the Ranger header only has a 2" dia outlet. 2" dia exhaust is plenty on the street. After all stock is only 1 3/4" dia. All the mod you asked about are great on a full race 2300 where you can turn it 8000 RPM lap after lap. For what you want they would be a waste of money. Get a real cam and go from there as the Ranger cam is great on a 100% street Pinto. Got one in my Pinto and it's very smooth with lots of low down torque. Hope this helps you.

For exhaust pipe size look at the chart from flowmaster at  Big is not always better. 200 HP from a street driven, un-blown 2300 is asking a lot. Could be done but would not be very streetable.

Thanks for the advice guys. Ill look into just using the RR cam and doing a good valve job. Ill change exhaust from the glass pack back with a 2inch and turn out in front of back tire.

From what I've read the "net" result of the Ranger Roller cam (also available in certain Mustangs too) is similar to the stock slider 2.3 cam even though the specs. are different.  The lift is less, but I believe the cam ramps up faster being a roller and the total flow remain about the same. There are two roller cams/rockers.  Make sure the set you state having is compatible with the valve stem diameter of the head.  There is also a LOT of chatter on the internet about mixing the two roller cams/rockers for a performance gain but from what I read that seems to be debunked.

 I mention this in case you come across the articles. I tried to post a link to the 4M site where this is discussed, but got a lot of scantly clad girls in the side bar and warnings I needed to "update" much of my software, thus I made a hasty retreat.  I believe Dick uses the (legit) 4M site and might be able to provide the proper link.

You asked,"Is it worth it?"  On Ebay they go for about $100+ as a set, used.  I've gotten everything needed at a Pick Your Part 50% off sale for $25. So, my "worth it" may not be yours.  The value is not in performance, but reliability.  Modern oils and and old slider cams are a potential problem waiting to happen.  Lastly I mention this in case you go to try and pull a RR set. The cam removal is often inhibited by the upper radiator cradle. The convenience of a Pick Your Part car is I simply cut the cradle and bent the portion out of the way. There are also two screws holding a metal plate that rides in a groove on the back of the cam.  It is held with Phillips screws. The area between the firewall and the screws is rather limited even with a stubby screwdriver (and they are tight too).  I wound up using a Phillips bit for a power driver and a pair of vise grips to (barely) get the screws removed. The bit is not ideal (a little small) and you need a lot of pressure to keep it seated properly.


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