Author Topic: New car ! (Read 137466 times)

79prostreet · « **Reply #120 on:** December 24, 2013, 01:56:02 PM »

Hey, no problem. I think you'll find not to be a big deal once you get started. By the time I was done with mine there was'nt much left.

79prostreet · « **Reply #121 on:** December 24, 2013, 02:04:48 PM »

Hey, no problem. I think once you get started you'll find it to be no big deal. By the time I got done cutting on mine not much left. The picture shows it in the back area to a tab on the frame. Bud

Reeves1 · « **Reply #122 on:** December 25, 2013, 11:13:36 AM »

Thanks for the picture.

Did a google search on mid plates. Most are too thick & aluminum ?

Is/are they bolted outside of the bell, or replace the back plate ?

Best ones replace the back plate ? I have a Quicktime bell. Steel back plate.

My Super T-10 cannot be moved back at all. I have to use an extended pilot bushing as it is.

79prostreet · « **Reply #123 on:** December 25, 2013, 06:48:55 PM »

Reeves1, the plate I used came from S&W race cars it's 3/32 thick steel and goes between the trans & block.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #124 on:** December 26, 2013, 09:10:15 AM »

Was looking at a number of them this morning.

Was also looking at my car yesterday. The bell & trans still sits in the car.
I have a couple 302w blocks sitting around to make sure everything lines up.
B2 engine will not be back home till late March or April.

Looks to me I could make some 1/4" brackets that can bolt on behind the bell flange. I can make it/them so at least 3 bolts go through them.

Have to think on this more.....

Could only find a 1/8" plate on the S&W site.
I'll measure my back plate today.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #125 on:** December 28, 2013, 12:30:45 PM »

Top right 2.5" hole is where the main wire harness will go through the fire wall.
I'll cut two 3" aluminum plates , with a center bolt (small one) & seal up the original hole.
Doing it this way so I do not have to pull the stuff off of the inside , to weld it up.

(brake lines will be re-located in the future)

Reeves1 · « **Reply #126 on:** December 28, 2013, 03:20:16 PM »

A little progress , is still progress , right ?

Made four Mini Plenum gaskets. Two are 1/16" two are 1/32".
Research showed 1/16" what people were using. Seems thick.....

Cut some plexi to keep them as made.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #127 on:** January 01, 2014, 03:06:45 PM »

Since my B2 is away getting yet another re-build....

I have a spare 302w roller block. Put it in the car so I can figure out the mid mounts.
Still have not found a plate that I like.
I may have the back plate for the Quick Time bell re-made to my specs.
Or...I may make a bracket for each side of my own design.
Got to think on it......

Reeves1 · « **Reply #128 on:** March 27, 2014, 03:33:41 PM »

Made a set of templates. Bigger one is for the left (drivers) side.
May trim some more off of them ?
To these will be welded angle iron. One on the frame rail.
I have poly pads (same as I used for the engine mounts).
They'll bolt to the back of the Quick Time bell.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #129 on:** March 27, 2014, 05:01:59 PM »

You need to make the tunnel removable to get at some of those bolts. You must have the patience of Job to wrench in tight spaces because I throw wrenches frequently when I'm jammed tight in a small area LOL.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #130 on:** March 27, 2014, 05:28:11 PM »

The way I put engines/trans into these, I have not had any troubles, even though I do it all by myself.
Done it so many times I could likely do it in the dark ..... besides.....sk in grows (mostly) back

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #131 on:** March 28, 2014, 07:58:47 AM »

I hate removing skin, LOL..

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #132 on:** March 28, 2014, 09:21:49 AM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on March 28, 2014, 07:58:47 AM

I hate removing skin, LOL..

My scars from wrenching read like a roadmap

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #133 on:** March 28, 2014, 09:45:40 AM »

Quote from: Pinto5.0 on March 28, 2014, 09:21:49 AM

My scars from wrenching read like a roadmap

I hear that, and along with header burns, lol.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #134 on:** March 28, 2014, 08:21:32 PM »

FYI

Stopped in at the (new) engine builder in Edmonton AB.
Wish I had heard about him before sending the engine to CA.

New parts list:

Oil pump
Timing gears and chain
All new bearings
New rod bolts
Crank studs
Line bore (was .006 past max allowable)
Bore cylinders to .030
Pistons & rings
Cam, lifters, push rods
Rockers
Springs keepers etc
Valves
Head work
(what did I miss ?)
Balance & Blue Print

Shop builds everything from rail engines to stock. Has for a long time & has a very good rep.

Cost is much less than the CA build @ $6700.00 (ish)

Dyno day is another $800.00

There will be other costs.
Will not know which carb I'll be using till the dyno work.

I have four intakes.
I'll be using the Mini Plenum

Spares are :
OEM
Weiand single 4 Tunnel Ram with NOS fittings.
Weiand 2 x 4 Tunnel Ram. This one is NEW, never used.

Engine is being built for race gas (could mix if I wanted).
Not built for NOS.
Car will be scary enough without that stuff.....at least for me.

Completion date end of April (or early May).

beaner · « **Reply #135 on:** March 29, 2014, 02:55:47 PM »

dont know if you can get e85 up in canada but try this guy out so you dont need to run race gas

http://www.horsepowerinnovations.com/concrete/index.php?cID=1
brad

Reeves1 · « **Reply #136 on:** March 29, 2014, 04:18:25 PM »

Not sure if I've ever seen of e85.
Don't recall reading about it.

Don't mind using race fuel.
Tank is 11 gallons.
B2 engine is built without fuel mileage in mind

79prostreet · « **Reply #137 on:** March 29, 2014, 06:16:56 PM »

Smiles per gallon! that's what the B2 is built for. If I know right NASCAR runs e85 in their cars now. Reeves1 looks like your engine mounting should be good and stable, good luck with that new engine.

derekrichmond15@yahoo.com · « **Reply #138 on:** March 30, 2014, 08:50:56 PM »

I would definitely be giving them the worst review EVER!!!! THIS IS Y U BUILD YOUR OWN ENGINE!! The only thing I let good old Napa do is the .030 cylinder bore so no messing around with assholes!!!!!!Just me and my 75 year old father that worked for Ford for 35 years. What are you going to do about all the BS and BAD workmanship from that company?? I would give them HELL!!!!

Reeves1 · « **Reply #139 on:** March 31, 2014, 03:05:05 AM »

Quote from: derekrichmond15@yahoo.com on March 30, 2014, 08:50:56 PM

I would definitely be giving them the worst review EVER!!!! THIS IS Y U BUILD YOUR OWN ENGINE!! The only thing I let good old Napa do is the .030 cylinder bore so no messing around with assholes!!!!!!Just me and my 75 year old father that worked for Ford for 35 years. What are you going to do about all the BS and BAD workmanship from that company?? I would give them HELL!!!!

Talked with two different Lawyers. Both said the same.....cost more to go after him than to build another engine.
But..... he has lost business from word of mouth.....for as long as I am alive.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #140 on:** April 02, 2014, 11:57:49 AM »

Anyone that has looked under a dash knows Ford didn't paint lots of things.
Since the car is apart I'm re-building the heater.
New core. Sand blast, prime & paint all metal parts.
All new screws & clips etc

Reeves1 · « **Reply #141 on:** April 22, 2014, 08:15:21 AM »

Got the four engine mounts done.
Sand blasted & at least 4 coats of primer.
Mid mounts are 1/4" plate & 2" angle as well.
I was going to gusset the mid plate angle iron, but think it's plenty strong enough as is. Stronger than the frame.

Frame rails are flat black right now. I'll be changing this and the mounts to semi gloss black, after the header build.

Note how I made the left side so it pulls up - right side pushes down.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #142 on:** April 28, 2014, 01:01:20 PM »

Shifter hole done.
Next up is to clean up the floors & apply POR 15.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #143 on:** April 30, 2014, 10:05:19 AM »

Went shopping yesterday. A few steering parts are for Ugly Yellow.
Still need to find lower ball joints.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #144 on:** April 30, 2014, 10:08:58 AM »

Sand blast & paint under dash parts.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #145 on:** May 05, 2014, 09:26:22 AM »

I sure wish I could find the time to work on mine

I'm jealous

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #146 on:** May 05, 2014, 10:01:43 AM »

Quote from: Pinto5.0 on May 05, 2014, 09:26:22 AM

I sure wish I could find the time to work on mine

Ain't that the truth..

Reeves1 · « **Reply #147 on:** May 09, 2014, 01:41:29 PM »

3 NOS lower ball joints (have 4 now)
4 rolls of sound proofing/heat shield
New rack
2 - 3/4" smooth x 3/4" smooth u-joints
assorted blue zip ties
2 packs various rev limit chips
12-700 inline fuel pump
5 point harness
Black cap for my MSD (don't like red)
2 kill switches

Need to get back to work

Reeves1 · « **Reply #148 on:** May 24, 2014, 09:28:00 AM »

Couldn't find any type of paint, even from a body shop, to match the grey with black splatter paint that was originally in the engine bay.
So I sand blasted it. Prime, sand, prime, sand....

It is now semi gloss black.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #149 on:** May 24, 2014, 09:33:26 AM »

There was some rust on the inside floor pan on both sides where your feet rest.
Cleaned up & put POR 15 on the rust areas.
Then painted the whole inside floor pan.
Then installed a sound proofing material.
The original stuff used was falling apart.
Nasty stuff to install !
Self adhesive.

News:

Current Classifieds

Author Topic: New car ! (Read 137466 times)