Author Topic: New car ! (Read 136038 times)

79prostreet · « **Reply #90 on:** April 10, 2013, 09:05:38 PM »

Do you plan on a mid plate?

Reeves1 · « **Reply #91 on:** April 11, 2013, 07:06:52 AM »

Quote from: Pinto5.0 on April 10, 2013, 07:10:28 PM

I'm not too sure horizontal mounts on a flat plane are gonna handle the stress.

That was a question in my head as well. I was thinking a flat 1/4" bar welded onto the left plate up to a header bolt may tie it in better ? To a head bolt would be better, depending on where the header tube will be ?

Quote

Do you plan on a mid plate?

Was not planning on one. I'd have to move the engine forward to do so.

79prostreet · « **Reply #92 on:** April 11, 2013, 07:08:00 PM »

Reeves, I don't have a real good picture of my set up but I'll post what I have. The mid plate is at most 1/8 , so motor ahead 1/8 or tranny back 1/8 not to big of a deal for the added support it gives. Bud

Reeves1 · « **Reply #93 on:** April 16, 2013, 06:29:29 PM »

Will not be using a back plate. I have a couple ideas to make the ones I made work OK. I hope....

Got the shifter figured out & adjusted on the Super T-10. Ended up with extra rods & a few other parts. Had to use the shifter arm (trans) for reverse from a Hurst shifter set up. The handle for the Long Shifter is small & I have big hands, so used a new Hurst shifter handle. Has the button for the line lock.
Now to clean up the trans & paint.
I picked up a sand blaster , but it plugs up fast. Glass that came with it is too big. I think. Going to pick smaller sand up, to do the trans mount & paint it as well.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #94 on:** April 18, 2013, 02:28:07 PM »

What can I say..... I like Ford blue

Reeves1 · « **Reply #95 on:** April 20, 2013, 07:59:45 PM »

Duh ! Couldn't stop myself ! Got it for $157.37
Drilled for NOS. Can plug holes or use.
Using would mean a bit of difference in the new engine build though.

FairWarning1990 · « **Reply #96 on:** April 27, 2013, 02:19:20 AM »

I was with you on every single choice until the transmission (if you held a gun to my head, that's the only negative I can think of here). A little too much unnecessary work for my tastes. Sit back and let the tranny do it's job, man! I'm sitting here like the voice in the wilderness screaming "C4 BABY"!

Reeves1 · « **Reply #97 on:** April 27, 2013, 10:21:57 AM »

The Super T-10 is a better trans than the Ford RUG trans. Tougher.
Plus I like shifting !
Top end/cruising speed is better than a 3 auto.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #98 on:** April 28, 2013, 09:46:35 PM »

I prefer rowing gears myself. Unless I'm into drag racing for the money it's too boring dropping it in drive.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #99 on:** July 17, 2013, 03:16:07 PM »

Making it stronger......

Reeves1 · « **Reply #100 on:** September 01, 2013, 06:49:39 AM »

"Worked" on the car yesterday..... ...was walking by it to the shop fridge & spotted 3 rocks in the FL tire......agai n. They have been bugging me for months & always "too busy" to remove them.
Guess they finally bugged me too much, so took them out.

Building a 20' x 15' storage building. Need it to store car parts and tons of other stuff in the shop.

fozzy · « **Reply #101 on:** October 01, 2013, 01:16:30 AM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on April 27, 2013, 10:21:57 AM

The Super T-10 is a better trans than the Ford RUG trans. Tougher.
Plus I like shifting !
Top end/cruising speed is better than a 3 auto.

How is the top end/cruising speed better with a T-10 than with an auto?

Did you ever come up with a solution to removing the cable steering and getting a universal joint to fit the steering rack?

Fozzy

Reeves1 · « **Reply #102 on:** October 01, 2013, 05:05:26 AM »

Haven't had the car out with the T-10. Engine builder took me to the cleaners & sent it back ready to blow up. Have to get it re-built......again.

After I get the new 20' x 15' storage barn built & loads of stuff moved out of the shop, I'll get back to work on the cars.

and

Find out if the U - joint can be used.

jeremysdad · « **Reply #103 on:** October 01, 2013, 10:59:12 AM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on September 01, 2013, 06:49:39 AM

"Worked" on the car yesterday..... ...was walking by it to the shop fridge & spotted 3 rocks in the FL tire......agai n. They have been bugging me for months & always "too busy" to remove them.
Guess they finally bugged me too much, so took them out.

Building a 20' x 15' storage building. Need it to store car parts and tons of other stuff in the shop.

That alone was good for at least a .1 second drop in ET, right?

On a serious note...it amazes me that the 'trained monkeys' at most major tire retailers don't realize that they should remove as many rocks/other stowaways as possible before balancing a tire. Hey...it's a rock. If it finally dislodges at freeway speed, there went your balance. On the flip side...stupid rocks!

lol

GremenLogan1 · « **Reply #104 on:** October 03, 2013, 05:04:46 AM »

I agree we must take prior concern on the selection and it's conditions too...I have almost check all of them

ETPinto · « **Reply #105 on:** October 06, 2013, 02:31:10 PM »

I feel its solidly established that this car is mechanically awesome. Therefore it is my desire to point out that the interior, white on black, gave me a woody. Those white door panels/arm rests and seats with black cockpit are sweeeet!

Reeves1 · « **Reply #106 on:** November 21, 2013, 11:40:21 AM »

New front brakes.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-140-11017/overview/

Was going to order them from that place, but after working out USD/CAD exchange, taxes, duty.....was cheaper to buy right here in Edmonton.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #107 on:** November 22, 2013, 04:08:05 AM »

Left click first picture. It will/should pop up bigger. Then use the next button to see the rest. Keep track of pics if you have any you want more info on.
I never started this engine.
Going for (another) re-build this winter.

Finally got into the motor some more.
After getting my trans & V-Gate in-line shifter worked out, I left the car sitting.
Pulled the engine for a closer look.
I didn't pull the cam, but can see scoring on the front lobe. No pic of it.
I pulled one rod cap. Gave up pulling others, as it is a complete waste of time.
Looks like I will try to use/salvage: bare block, bare heads, timing cover & dip stick/tube. Dampener, oil pan & pick up.
I have a Mini Plenum I'll be using on the next build (found a good guy in Ont Canada).
New carb. I'll see if the dist can be salvaged, depends on what he did to set the gear on it.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/library/Bad%20Engine?sort=3&page=1

Left click the first one. It will (should) pop up bigger. Then use the next button to see the rest.
Reason for sending this is, thought you may want to know.

Derrick

Reeves1 · « **Reply #108 on:** November 23, 2013, 02:05:39 PM »

Had some time to do a bit of work.
Using a spot weld drill it I drilled the battery support.
I could see some rust dust "leaking" from under it.

Drilled & ready to move.

What is under it.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #109 on:** November 23, 2013, 02:10:31 PM »

I'll clean off the outside of the inner fender. Then "tap" the spot welds to make them flush on the outside, to help prevent grinding/sanding the metal too thin or through.
Then grind/sand the spot welds & make it look like the support was never there.

I'll sand blast to completely remove the rust, before any primer/paint.

Did this for 2 main reasons. One, the rust. Second, I'll need the room for when I route the new heater lines.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #110 on:** November 26, 2013, 07:29:02 AM »

On the way home from MT I stopped in the town where the original headers for my car (when it had the original B2 engine) have been sitting for several years.
Last time I tried to buy them, the guy wanted more than new price.
This time he took $150.00 for them.....a few dents to fix & maybe new ceramic coating, down the road.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #111 on:** November 28, 2013, 08:14:11 AM »

Duh !

I raised the engine due to the Milodon pan. Headers will not fit without lowering the rack. Plus the motor mounts I made are in the way.
Gotta think on what to do......

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #112 on:** November 28, 2013, 08:51:57 AM »

Those are strange looking headers.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #113 on:** November 28, 2013, 08:55:03 AM »

Scroll back up & see the hole in the inner fender. Same on both sides. Back 2 tubes on each side go through there.
Front 2 on each side go slightly forward, down and under the cross member.

Likely the same as the old Hooker swap headers went.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #114 on:** November 28, 2013, 09:19:39 AM »

Quite the setup.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #115 on:** December 01, 2013, 07:41:05 PM »

Sad day.... re-crate the engine to send it away for tear down and inspection.
Block will be magged, soniced and checked for core shift. Plus a detailed inspection.
Same for heads, plus flow check each port.

So far, new parts needed:
All gaskets
Seals
Crank
All bearings
Cam
Lifters
Push rods
Rods bolts ( has the cheap 8740 ARP bolts)
Rockers
Springs retainers etc
Likely valves , as they may be the cheap stainless ones
Oil pump

If the block fails inspection, maybe a whole new engine.
Even the left head gasket is on backwards.
Don't send anything to Mascar in Ca......

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #116 on:** December 01, 2013, 08:58:50 PM »

That sucks, sorry to hear that..

Reeves1 · « **Reply #117 on:** December 14, 2013, 07:18:25 PM »

Called this morning.....lo ts left to check.....but lots of bad news.
It may be a week or so before I post all the info.

I'll pick the engine up on the 21st (ish) , when headed home for the season break

Reeves1 · « **Reply #118 on:** December 24, 2013, 08:19:25 AM »

I sent the engine into the city (Edmonton) for a full inspection.

Wrong crank/rod bearings. The rods were binding on the outsides of the bearings. (pics of this & more will be taken after the junk parts are back home)
Wrong rod bolts - they are the ARP 8740 & no builder in his right mind uses anymore.
Was told it looks like the bearings were replaced after the dyno runs.
Rods will go through a more detailed inspection to see if they can be re-used.
Crank (so far) looks OK - more detailed inspection will be done.
Although I was charged for .030 over pistons to be turned to fit .020 bore.....they were not done. They are real .020 over pistons.
But the compression in not 11:1 as told. Worked out to 10.35:1
Bottom timing chain gear damaged (didn't look at the top one or chain)
Cam may have damage....it looked that way at home before sending into the city.
Doesn't matter - wrong one for this engine anyway.
One set of lifters backwards to the others.
Left head gasket on backwards.
This caused a heat problem & damaged the exhaust guides.
He put the cheap stainless valves in - two exhaust valves are bent.
Head is OK though.

New parts (so far) needed:
Rod bolts Maybe rods)
New .030 over pistons (to get compression up)
Rings
all bearings, seals & gaskets
New custom grind cam, solid roller.
Push rods
Lifters
Valves , springs etc
New timing chain & gears
Oil pump

New intake will be a Mini Plenum & new carb

What did I miss ?

PS: another guy had his B2 engine built at the same time as mine. Built in the same way. He was maybe 5 minutes from home & KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK !
He babied it home & is sending that engine back.
Great engine builder, huh !

Reeves1 · « **Reply #119 on:** December 24, 2013, 08:20:40 AM »

Quote from: 79prostreet on April 10, 2013, 09:05:38 PM

Do you plan on a mid plate?

The more I look at the car & think on it.......I like this idea.
Thanks for creating more work for me !

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Author Topic: New car ! (Read 136038 times)