PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => Your Pintos/Bobcats & Racers => Topic started by: tjm73 on May 21, 2014, 10:11:08 PM
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So I recently went and took a look at this little gem. It's a 1973 Runabout hatchback. It's a recent barn escapee that hadn't seen the sun in over 30 years until just a couple days ago. She's wounded, but the rest of it is so clean and rust free it's worth repairing. Needs a quarter, a taillight panel, a new hatch, a rear bumper, and a rear valence. It's only got 56,247 miles. It's red and has a black interior that is in pretty nice condition except for the head liner has a couple small holes in it and the plastic around the rear wheel well and hatch area is broken from the accident. The current owner has a hatch and a couple little things for it.
The story goes it was hit back in the mid/late 70's and the owner didn't want to fix it. So the guy I'm buying it from bought it with the intention of fixing it and putting a V8 in it. He put it in his horse barn and never got around to it. He ended up getting into Harley's (he has 5, couple real nice ones too) and doesn't have the time or interest to do the Pinto now. I have the interest, the time and the space in my pole barn to do it. So I agreed to buy it.
The plan for the car is several fold. First, I have to repair the damage to the rear drivers side quarter. So the search for the needed parts begins with that. Second, That repair will entail mini-tubbing the car for larger wheels & tires. Third, I want to address the design flaw I feel all Pintos and Mustang II's suffer from. The front axle center line is too far rearward. It needs to be moved forward about 4 inches. In doing this, I will update the front suspension to the '74-up Mustang II/Pinto suspension. It will allow the use of easily obtained suspension parts. Narrow control arms, coil over suspension, etc... I will also add a roll bar. This will address the chassis. Once the chassis is complete, I will move on to the drive train.
The current plan is the car will get a low buck, low tech GT-40P iron headed 302 with a blow-through carb single turbo mounted on the passenger side to allow for a passanger side exhaust discharge. It simplifies plumbing (as opposed to two turbos) as well as eliminating exhaust, steering, and master cylinder space issues.
A nice bonus is it adds power to the engine. I am a believer in higher compression with low boost set ups. You can build a low compression engine and pump a lot of boost. But this is more of a race engine method since off idle and low rpm response isn't as importent at the track with transbrakes and such because off idle isn't really much of a concern. Besides it makes the engine a little doggy on the street. Upping the engine compression ratio increases throttle response and engine effieciency on and off boost. It makes it more resposive on the mean streets and you get more power from less boost.
Here's some pictures.
The good..
(http://oi58.tinypic.com/10znz38.jpg)
(http://oi58.tinypic.com/2qckt9t.jpg)
The bad...
(http://oi59.tinypic.com/6qad7l.jpg)
(http://oi62.tinypic.com/oayk2p.jpg)
Worst case scenario once I get it home is I can't find the parts to put it back together. In that case, I will likely part it out so she can live on as a donor. But hopefully I can put her back together.
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No. Find another one, if you want one. That's a 'parts car' to us.
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I see you are a founding member. No offense, but I find it hard to believe you speak for everyone. You might consider it a parts car. I don't. Here's why.
First, you haven't seen the damage first hand as I have. It's actually not as bad as it looks.
Second, my brother, who ran my father's body shop for 20+ years and is a crash estimator by trade, estimates about a month of weekends to repair and get it to the point it's ready to be painted. I trust his opinion on the car.
Third, the guy I am buying it from is a body shop manager (actually my brother's boss) for a major dealer in my area. He knows it's repairable without much fuss. That's why he stashed it away for over 30 years as a future project.
Fourth, seeing as the car is essentially going to be back-halved this damage is rather inconsequentia l.
Fifth, you don't know what I'm paying for the car. It's cheap enough to seriously consider fixing.
So rather than condemn the car from Tennessee, sit back and wait to see what I actually do with it. I may well decide to part it out. That decision is not yet made. I still need to bring it home, put it in my barn to get it up on jack stands and inspect it in greater detail.
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Having access to cheap, quality body repair puts you in a position 99% of us will never know. If you can save it by all means do so. I hate to see them parted out when they are clean.
Just understand that to the average Pinto guy like me there are $500-1000 in parts needed & $2500-5000 in bodyshop expenses to put that car back on the road. A clean, low mileage Pinto that needs nothing can be had for what I'd spend paying a shop to do the repair & paint on that car.
It's unfortunate but my reality & many others on here I'm sure is that finding a clean shell for under $1000, painting it ourselves for a few hundred bucks or Maaco if there's a sale & stripping that car for parts to assemble it would be our only viable option.
I'm trying to find a shop to hang an NOS quarter on my 71 & so far I've been either ignored or quoted prices that are double the $600 purchase price of the car. All I want is the quarter hung & roughed in. I can finish it & paint it myself. Even at that I'll spend $2500 by the time it's painted which is enough to buy a pretty nice running, driving Pinto.
I envy your access to cheap body/paint work. If I was in your shoes I wouldn't have 4 cars at my house needing painted.
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I see you are a founding member. No offense, but I find it hard to believe you speak for everyone. You might consider it a parts car. I don't. Here's why.
First, you haven't seen the damage first hand as I have. It's actually not as bad as it looks.
Second, my brother, who ran my father's body shop for 20+ years and is a crash estimator by trade, estimates about a month of weekends to repair and get it to the point it's ready to be painted. I trust his opinion on the car.
Third, the guy I am buying it from is a body shop manager (actually my brother's boss) for a major dealer in my area. He knows it's repairable without much fuss. That's why he stashed it away for over 30 years as a future project.
Fourth, seeing as the car is essentially going to be back-halved this damage is rather inconsequentia l.
Fifth, you don't know what I'm paying for the car. It's cheap enough to seriously consider fixing.
So rather than condemn the car from Tennessee, sit back and wait to see what I actually do with it. I may well decide to part it out. That decision is not yet made. I still need to bring it home, put it in my barn to get it up on jack stands and inspect it in greater detail.
I agree wholeheartedly! The damage isn't all that bad, really... especially since you have connections in the collision repair business! To have a clean, rust-free, 56K mile '73 Pinto, I'd say the repair work is well worth the investment! Have fun with your project!
Dwayne :)
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Although we can agree it's (Just) a Pinto, keep in mind some basic history. Back in the late 50's and early 60's a rusty Porsche Speedster or Cabriolet would not be worth a full collision repair and repaint. Now with classic values approaching $600K for the rare versions when completed, and even more for the Carrera Furhmann 4 cam versions , It's not too much to understand that there are now metal fab shops building all unibody pieces for these cars. Once the market develops, Historical cars are worth the cost to restore and Rebuild. Even BMW has almost 90 % of the parts in the Plant in Germany to complete a 1972 2002 tii sedan. Labor of love aside, Play the long game. Most who do will win out! ;D
Pintosopher,
Wishing I had bought the C&D Imsa Pinto racer ,even when it was listed at 30K :o
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No. Find another one, if you want one. That's a 'parts car' to us.
I agree 100%. (FIRST)Because the early (71/73) Pintos do not have a rear sub frame, when hit as hard as this one has been hit, the car will be warped and fixing it will be a chore. (SECOND)Parts are very hard to find for an early Pinto like the rear bumper and valance panel. (THIRD)Engine parts are even harder to find for a 2.0L engine. Get your self a 74/80 Pinto and put all the good interior parts in it. I've done what your trying to do, and by the time its fixed, you'll hate the sight of it.
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I agree 100%. (FIRST)Because the early (71/73) Pintos do not have a rear sub frame, when hit as hard as this one has been hit, the car will be warped and fixing it will be a chore. (SECOND)Parts are very hard to find for an early Pinto like the rear bumper and valance panel. (THIRD)Engine parts are even harder to find for a 2.0L engine. Get your self a 74/80 Pinto and put all the good interior parts in it. I've done what your trying to do, and by the time its fixed, you'll hate the sight of it.
so do later pinto,s have rear chassis legs i was very surprised when i looked under my 71 and its just a floor pan back from the front rails no wonder they folded on impact,
also there is the most massive amount of parts available to super tune the 2,.0 ohc mtr over here in england its an engine that has been used in all sorts of race situations over here you can get aolmost 22hp from it a great torquay rev happy engine simple buy from us like we buy v8 stuff from you boys
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I agree 100%. (FIRST)Because the early (71/73) Pintos do not have a rear sub frame, when hit as hard as this one has been hit, the car will be warped and fixing it will be a chore.
First, you haven't seen the damage first hand as I have. It's actually not as bad as it looks.
Fourth, seeing as the car is essentially going to be back-halved this damage is rather inconsequentia l.
Initial inspection is the car is otherwise strait. We'll see once home. Perhaps next weekend. Back-halved means who cars about no rear sub-frame rails. The back-halving will add them.
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Tubbing it solves 95% of potential issues if there is damage out back. At that point you just need to hand a quarter & tail panel & make it one color.
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She's home!
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Be sure to keep us updated on your progress!
Dwayne :)
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Be sure to keep us updated on your progress!
Dwayne :)
Yeah, I want to see pictures of the car as it undergoes restoration!
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Yeah, I want to see pictures of the car as it undergoes restoration!
Ditto that..
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more damage then I would be willing to work with but time and money are my issues!! at the end its Your Decision!! I for one would find another clean shell and do a complete swap!! and sell that shell to another for a demo or race car! just my 2 cents!!
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Guy I used to work with did body work on the side and he was an artist, he'd look at that and say "ah, piece a cake".. LOL..
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I'm not a professional, but I HAVE done some bodywork in my day and the car really isn't that bad. There are going to be a few parts that need to be rounded up, but it's not really a big job. I think he's going to end up with a very nice little car!
Dwayne :)
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I wouldn't doubt it, it is a learning curve though..
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I wouldn't doubt it, it is a learning curve though..
True... but don't forget, he has body shop connections!
Dwayne :)
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True... but don't forget, he has body shop connections!
Dwayne :)
Yeah, and that makes things even easier..
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the only thing I don't understand is that its a quote low mileage car - and want to keep as - but yet going to mini tub the car?! to go thru all that work I would find a way!!!!! better shell and start off with good! strong steel!! but good luck!! my dad always told me your can polish a turd!! but it will always still be a turd!!!
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I never said it was low mileage. Just that it had only 56K-ish. I also never said I was going to restore it to stock. I am going to pull out the damage and tub it. So an otherwise solid but crunched slightly car is perfect to start with.
Let's shine a light on a couple things. The car rolls like it's a year old. Brakes are not seized to the drums/discs. after sitting in a barn since '79. Hard to believe. When we went to roll it off the trailer into my pole barn I said to my brother how are we gonna stop this thing before it hits Dad's trailer? And he said push the brake pedal and see if we have brakes. It still had brakes. Bottoms of the doors are rust free. Engine compartment is rust free. Interior is 95% perfect. All the glass is perfect.
The bottom of this car is so clean that the factory gas tank (at least I believe it to be the OE) is still in it and still has the US Steel markings on it. The inner rear wheel well housing is virtually undamaged despite the mashed appearance of the outer quarter. A come along and a couple chains will straighten it out and a new quarter will make it all better.
A few guys have passed judgment on the car with nothing but a couple quick shots I've thrown up. If you don't like it or think it's worth doing anything with.... please move along and enjoy another thread.
I am hoping to wash it this weekend and get it up on a set of jack stands I have to take more/better pics of it.
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hello tjm73 while some of us look at that as too much work( myself included) and using it as a parts car you see it as a good start. for most us us the cost of a body shop fix would be too costly.since you wish to tub it cutting up the back end might not be hard for you cause you have use of a body shop. good luck on your car. chris ps what state are you in?
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I'm in New York. An hour or so East of the Buffalo end near Rochester.
Yes, if I didn't have the knowledge and experience of my brother (over 20 years in auto body) and his willingness to help me, this would be out of my reach as it sits.
While I don't have access to a body shop per say, I can turn part of my pole barn into a makeshift body shop when the time comes.
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Well, for whatever it's worth, I totally believe in this project. Personally, I would rather see it restored to stock, but it's your car and your decision... I'm just happy that it is being saved. Much, much, much too nice a car to be parted out. I wish you the best of luck in this endeavor and am looking forward to seeing your progress!
Dwayne :)
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Ugly Yellow is in much worse shape & I'm "fixing" it.
Go for it !
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I'm with you, tjm! I'd rather see it saved than stripped. I also have to agree with Dwayne... I like stock better. All you can do is follow your heart. It's so refreshing to see somebody believe in a car enough to bring her back to life. I wish you the very best of luck! And no, your car is NOT a turd.
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Lots of people would argue that all Pintos are turds. I guess I like cars that are turds then.
I like the shape of the Pinto, the simplicity, the fact they are rear wheel drive, and that they are lightweight.
On another note...... I measured my engine compartment last night out of curiosity.
Top of Engine Compartment = ~38.5" Max Width
Frame Rail (in to in) = ~25" at widest, ~24" at narrowest
Bottom of Oil Pan to Top of Air Cleaner = ~24"
Firewall to Radiator Support = ~29"
I will have a few parts that eventually will end up for sale. Like, for example, a 52K mile 2.0L with 4 speed and all the front suspension parts.
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all the front suspension parts.
?
Only part I can think of that is changed for V8s would be the springs.
Plus rotor, calipers & hubs if using the Wilwood kit.
What plans have you ?
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I plan to cut the entire front suspension out, move the axle center line forward about 4-6" and replace it with '74-80 parts so I can buy narrow control arms and drop spindles. The later front end parts are just much better supported in the aftermarket.
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When I mention the term "trud" I was not calling your car or a pinto a turd! I own 5 3 bobcats and 2 pintos! I love these cars! I simply was saying that it looks like a large project and to build stock would be tough with out nos or super nice parts! Meaning at to find ok parts and do a hobby level repair! Have had friends in the past try to rebuild cars - most rusted out - they hang new quarters and fenders and its a parade car! Waves as it goes by and looks great at 30 ft! They started with crap and after all that time and money ended with the same! Good luck and hope your project goes well! As I stated earlier I would personally start with a better shell- but I'm not a full on body guy I can paint and sand! Not a metal finisher!
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I never said it was low mileage. Just that it had only 56K-ish....
Well if you wanna get technical 56k-ish miles is low mileage for a 1973 car. That equals to an estimate of 1366 a year. Now, I dunno about you but I consider that low miles. Especially with the national average being anywhere between approximiately 12k-15k per year. Now, back to the subject at hand. Would I want to take on fixing that car? No, not at all but I also don't have the skill, money, time, or patience for a project like that. BUT.... it is not my car, it is your car & nobody can tell you whether you should or should not fix it. Gotta do what you feel is right. Nothing more, nothing less. If I had the ability, time, money, & patience I would be fixing my crusty, rusty 77 Pinto instead of parting it out.
Either way, looking forward to seeing the progress of the work on the car. Good luck! ;D
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I plan to cut the entire front suspension out, move the axle center line forward about 4-6" and replace it with '74-80 parts so I can buy narrow control arms and drop spindles. The later front end parts are just much better supported in the aftermarket.
Front fenders etc are all off my car.
I have a chair & bucket table beside it for bottled water ( ;D ) or...
So , sitting & looking at my car.........
Take this as just my thoughts & mean no disrespect....
Looking at my 72 front end I'm finding it hard to see any benefit of moving the cross member forward & with a newer one to boot.
This adds more weight to the front end. Lots more.
Plus it moves it to a weaker point on the frame rails, which are a different shape & width.
Speaking of width, isn't the 74 ^ wider ?
This would mean narrowing the "new" cross member.
Also means mods to the steering.
Then, due to the cross member being moved forward, the wheel wells will have to change.....ext ending the fenders.
Same for the hood.
Seems to me you would be pushing a bunch of weight forward, plus adding a bunch more weight to the front end by having to extend fenders hood etc.
Somehow I'm not seeing any net gain , but a loss.
You would (maybe ?) gain by being able to use a rear sump pan ?
If just that & being able to use newer parts, I see a huge cost with a net loss.
Like I said, not seeing any net gain.
Would like to read your thoughts on any gains , that I'm not able to see ?
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First, I appreciate the thoughts. Constructive criticism is always welcome.
My desire to move the cross member forward serves three purposes for me.
First, it corrects an aesthetic issue that has always bugged me for Pintos and Mustang II's. The front axle center line is simply too far back. It needs to more forward 4"-6" in order to look right.
Second, moving the center line forward adds wheelbase to the car. This improves ride quality and adds straight line stability. I will admit that this benefit is likely small.
Third, moving the center line forward effectively places more of the V8 I will be installing behind the center line which improves static weight distribution. This will improve ride quality, handling and breaking.
As to your observations about frame rail width and extending the fender and hood. I was actually in my barn the other night sitting on my lawn mower with the iPod playing some music looking at the Pinto thinking about how to tie the front suspension into the existing uni-body and back to the intended back half sub-frame.
I got down off the mower, grabbed my tape measure and popped the hood. I was studying the frame rails and inner fenders. Thinking about the V8 I plan to install, how the exhaust system woudl run, the relocation of the axle center line, the impact on wheel movement in the up and down action of riding over bumps and the left/right action of executing turns. It occurred to me that the front frame rails may need to be modified or removed & replaced. This means inner fender modifications. Nothing that is impossible to do, but something I want to give prolonged thought to doing before I do it.
The changed axle center line would be contained entirely within the existing fender real estate. I will not make the fenders/hood longer. I would cut the wheel arches out and move them forward, then add appropriate material to fill the gap. It would continue to use a stock hood.
While I was studying the frame rails and such, I looked at the firewall. I am certain that it would be worthwhile the apply the old hot rod trick of recessing some of the firewall. Probably no more than 2-3 inches deep and about 24" wide. Moving the axle CL forward and being able to get the engine back a couple inches will provide much needed engine bay length in the early chassis.
Lastly, I don't see it adding any significant weight. I am actually reducing the weight forward of the axle CL which transfers some weight rearward which splits that weight to be carried by both axles.
Upon contemplating all this, I began to question if I want to move forward with this project. I need to speak with my brother and get his thoughts on this. He has more fabricating experience than I do. I'm starting to wonder if I should put my efforts, time and money into an entirely different chassis. Have not decided yet.
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Thank you for the reply.
Sounds like you are really head scratching this out well.
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Below are links to a couple builds that include extending the wheel base while not using longer fenders (relocated wheel opening forward). May give you some ideas, have fun with the project.
http://www.fordpinto.com/your-project/prostreet49335-more-pics/msg25900/#msg25900
http://www.fordpinto.com/your-pintos/turbo-pinto-drag-car-(video-of-082308-5-93-run)/msg36103/#msg36103
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I don't take making structural modifications lightly. Simply moving the wheels forward truly isn't simple. It changes how the forces act on the uni-body and demands consideration for a lot of seen and unseen factors. Do it wrong and you ruin the car. I'm coming to realize my idea basically amounts to building a full tube chassis race car that is intended to be driven on the street 80-90% of the time.
Thanks for those links too.
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I agree. Full tube chassis. That's how the Pinto started the 'Funny car' revolution back in the 70's. ;) lol
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I agree. Full tube chassis. That's how the Pinto started the 'Funny car' revolution back in the 70's. ;) lol
That not the way it was by a long shot. First funny cars were 64 and 65 Mopars, when they moved all 4 wheels forward and installed a straight axel under the front. This was done in the mid 60's and they ran in the FX class till AHRA started the funny car class. AHRA started the funny car, and pro stock class plus ran fuel dragsters while NHRA had their head under a rock somewhere. I was there and ran pro stock with AHRA in the late 60's. Jean Snow was running a funny car at the time all over the country. Been there/done that.
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Gene Snow (not Jean). But yes, you are correct, Funny cars predate the Pinto by a fair number of years. Mickey Thompson - and also the Lee Eliminator were some of the first Pinto Funny Cars I recall.
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(http://images116.fotki.com/v618/photos/1/1090729/4751594/CalChargerPinto-vi.jpg)
(http://images116.fotki.com/v617/photos/1/1090729/4751594/MTPinto72Pulde-vi.jpg)
And my favorite.....
(http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/image/2009/News/July/tinker.jpg)
(http://api.ning.com/files/svxrPsAClWo*ysYighkWBBaXjdj4DZmsTowBt-oHEyRxmll7fs8uQgXp-xLp0kIYayl5KtxrD90oNL1RX*nfAywWfeD3n9Th/dragstonewoodandcook.jpg)
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Finding parts for this car is proving a challenge. But I recently secured a NOS lower rear valence pan and have a line on a NOS taillight panel. That leaves the sheet metal search at finding a drivers quarter panel and odd small bits I am not yet aware of. I continue to hunt for a rear bumper. I don;'t even need a nice one, just one nice enough to have re-chromed.
I'm finding the lack of parts availability to be a real morale buster. A part of me says part it out and buy something that's easier to get parts for. I am of the Fox Mustang generation, so I have a big soft spot for all cars Fox based. Capri's, Mustang's, Fairmont's, Thunderbird's, Cougar's, LTD's, Mark VII's, et al...
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Where all are you looking for parts?
Come out here (Phoenix AZ area). ;D
While here you could also pick this up really cheap and solve your chassis problem.
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/4624319115.html (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/4624319115.html)
Russ
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Finding parts for this car is proving a challenge. But I recently secured a NOS lower rear valence pan and have a line on a NOS taillight panel. That leaves the sheet metal search at finding a drivers quarter panel and odd small bits I am not yet aware of. I continue to hunt for a rear bumper. I don;'t even need a nice one, just one nice enough to have re-chromed.
I'm finding the lack of parts availability to be a real morale buster. A part of me says part it out and buy something that's easier to get parts for. I am of the Fox Mustang generation, so I have a big soft spot for all cars Fox based. Capri's, Mustang's, Fairmont's, Thunderbird's, Cougar's, LTD's, Mark VII's, et al...
I have a used drivers quarter that I cut off a low mileage 72 sedan I had a couple years back. I believe it is 100% rust free. I am not sure where you are located at but I am in Oregon. PM me if interested.
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Where all are you looking for parts?
Come out here (Phoenix AZ area). ;D
While here you could also pick this up really cheap and solve your chassis problem.
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/4624319115.html (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/4624319115.html)
Russ
The West and Southwest..... if only it was closer to me. I live in Western NY near Rochester (about an hour East of Buffalo). On average we get around 100" of snow every year and we have lots of salt. So they spread that stuff like mad. As you can imagine, not much lasts for much more than 8-10 winters without serious attempts to protect it. Pinto's did not fair well in the Northeast. I expect to have stuff shipped a long ways to get it.
I have a used drivers quarter that I cut off a low mileage 72 sedan I had a couple years back. I believe it is 100% rust free. I am not sure where you are located at but I am in Oregon. PM me if interested.
It'd be cost prohibitive I'm sure, but thanks for the offer.
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I've got a mint drivers side quarter that I bought the whole car to get & an NOS rear bumper with the holes for the rubber strips. Depending on where you are I can bring them to you. I deliver to Eastern Hills mall in Buffalo & Greece & Marketplace malls in Rochester.
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My hatchback door would fit, good shape red too and I live in NE Pa.
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My hatchback door would fit, good shape red too and I live in NE Pa.
My car came with a nice hatch, but thanks for the offer.
I've got a mint drivers side quarter that I bought the whole car to get & an NOS rear bumper with the holes for the rubber strips. Depending on where you are I can bring them to you. I deliver to Eastern Hills mall in Buffalo & Greece & Marketplace malls in Rochester.
My car is a '73 so it only has the horizontal bumperettes. Was there another bumper style? Let's talk about the quarter & bumper. Please email me so we can talk privately. My email is in my profile page.
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I couldn't find your email so I sent you a PM with pics
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I couldn't find your email so I sent you a PM with pics
Weird. When I click on my user name I see it right under my name. It's neither here nor there because I got your PM and replied.
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Weird. When I click on my user name I see it right under my name. It's neither here nor there because I got your PM and replied.
I clicked mine & mine was there so I'm guessing we can only see our own
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If you want to send an e-mail just click on the envelope, PM on the right icon.
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If you want to send an e-mail just click on the envelope, PM on the right icon.
Missed that
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/Homer-Simpson-Doh_zpsaa651449.jpg)
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http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FORD-PINTO-NOS-PASSENGER-SIDE-QUARTER-PANEL-/370524647051?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5644fd6e8b&vxp=mtr
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Thanks for the heads up, but a fellow member hooked me up with a nice rear 1/4 just last Friday. As in entire rear corner of a car, wheel housing and all. In real nice shape too. Big thanks to Pinto5.0 for that.
Now I'm hunting for an inner taillight panel support, a plain rear bumper (no rub strip) and a rear bumper bracket for the driver side. I think I'll have all the needed sheet metal once I find these items.
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So I've been looking for that taillight support panel everywhere I can think of and still nothing.
If anyone has one, or a line on where one might be or might be found, please let me know.
Hoping to begin some work this spring. For now my broken pony resides in my cold barn waiting to find out if she will become the "Six Million Dollar Pinto" (I can rebuild her. I have the technology) or if she will be put out to pasture and live on as a donor car.