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1971 Pinto Do It Yourself Manual

Date: 03/06/2017 01:19 am
Need 72 pinto parts!
Date: 06/14/2019 01:40 pm
1977 Pinto for parts

Date: 10/10/2018 06:25 pm
Wanted 71-73 Pinto grill
Date: 03/09/2019 10:45 pm
Bell housing
Date: 08/23/2017 05:41 am
72 pinto and 88 turbo coupe

Date: 06/09/2016 04:13 am
KYB shocks

Date: 02/08/2017 07:09 pm
Drivers side door panel Orange
Date: 05/22/2018 01:54 pm
ISO instrument panel 80 hatchback
Date: 04/20/2017 08:56 pm
I have a 1977 Cobra body lots of parts here
Date: 04/12/2017 06:57 pm
Chilton's Repair & Tune-up Guide 1971-1979 Pinto and Bobcat

Date: 03/06/2017 01:24 am
Looking for a 1977 Ford Pinto Runabout Hatchback
Date: 10/15/2017 10:03 am

Recent Posts

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I would still have him check fuel pressure when he is driving and it starts hesitating and stalling.  It sounds like what my EXP did before I installed the electric fuel pump.
Update: Pinto is still in the shop.  Am told the master mechanic is still trouble shooting.
When he drives it, it stalls and hesitates for him, so at least he is experiencing what we've been telling him; a vacuum hose was replaced, but that didn't solve the problem.

Tomorrow will be a week that they've had it.
General Help- Ask the Experts... / upholstery kits??
« Last post by pintob on Yesterday at 08:32:04 PM »
Anyone have an opinion on upholstery kits from TMI, SMS or any other place that sells them.
Such as quality, price ect.
Your Project / Re: 3G alternator in a Pinto
« Last post by Wittsend on December 07, 2022, 12:30:53 PM »
I had to go back to the original post Dick (RIP) made to remember this. My '88 engine came with the flat belt and as I recall the alternator was mounted to one of those big, aluminum, multi mount brackets. No room (and it's ugly too) for that in a Pinto. My recollection was getting an alternator bracket from some 2.3 (likely a Pinto) that bolted to the head and then fabricating the tensioning brace from a piece of bed frame angle iron. I had to cut/bend/weld and notch it in specific places but it has worked very well. The alternator is tight to the engine and up out of the way. There is minimal wrap on the water pump pulley but cooling has never been an issue. I don't recall having alignment issues like the V-groove pulleys seem to create. I guess each situation has a method of being dealt with.

Your Project / Re: Project Warhead
« Last post by rob289c on December 07, 2022, 08:05:07 AM »
Reeves1: I have decided there is too much corrosion in the bushing area of my OEM strut rods so I am going to use the Speedway rods after bending to the correct angle and transferring the sway bar end like mounts to the Speedway rods.

Warhead2: I attached a pic of my rods OEM vs Speedway that shows the different angle between the two.
Your Project / Re: Pinto Powered Mustang Roadster
« Last post by rob289c on December 07, 2022, 08:00:12 AM »
Last evening I removed the old bushings and washers form my re-acquired OEM strut rods and placed the old one on top of the Speedway rod to see what the difference was in the angle.  I knew if was different as the Speedway arms won't line up with the frame mounts when attached to the lower control arms.  The attached pic shows how much they differ.  It was more than I thought it was.  There was quite a bit of exfoliation corrosion under the bushing area on the OEM rods, so I have decided to bend the Speedway rods to the same angle as the OEM rods and use them rather than using the 40+ year old OEM rods.  I will transfer the sway bar link brackets from the OEM to the Speedway rods so I can use the new, factory links that I already own.  I have been warned that heating the rods to facilitate the bend will weaken the rod, but there isn't much stress on them and I don't think it is going to cause a catastrophe so that's how I plan to make the bend.  I will bolt the two rods together so the lower control arm mounting holes are lined up, then clamp them in a vice, heat the new rod, the bend it to the same angle as the OEM rod so I can use it with my stock crossmember.  As with everything with this project, I engineer it as I go.  I also will be removing the steering rack mounting bushings and installing the offset bushings so I can use the 15 1/2" mount T-Bird rack on my 16" Pinto crossmember.  I don't know how difficult it will be to remove them, but will find out this weekend when I go out to play in the garage.
Your Project / Re: 3G alternator in a Pinto
« Last post by 65ShelbyClone on December 06, 2022, 08:35:11 PM »
And for anyone thinking of using a 3G alternator, there is a very good chance you'll need to use a double v-belt pulley setup or it will slip.

I had to modify the back of my stock '86 2.3T double v pulley so it wouldn't rub on the 3g's case.
Since I made that post in 2016, a fair bit has changed. At the time I was using an improvised mount on the passenger side that started life as a 1986 A/C compressor bracket.
I moved the alternator to the driver's side by use of a '77 Pinto 2.3 low-mount bracket set. A large-case 3G alternator requires grinding the lower bracket to clear a bolt boss on the case otherwise it won't rotate enough to bolt to the upper bracket. If you manage to get a twin v-belt pulley on it(I had to modify one on a lathe so it wouldn't rub the case), then only the outer groove will line-up with factory '83-86 2.3T pulleys. It will also likely need a longer belt than whatever fit on the 1G. In my case it was a 43" and it can be installed with some difficulty. Really should be 2-3" longer.
Your Project / Re: Pinto Powered Mustang Roadster
« Last post by rob289c on December 04, 2022, 05:59:18 PM »
Yesterday I went to visit my old looked pretty sad sitting in the field.  Mice chewed up the rear seat bottom.  The interior was in really great shape.  It's a shame it has gone to waste.  I was able to get what was left of the two front suspension assembles.  This morning I removed the strut rods.  Penetrating oil, heat, and impact got the nuts off.  I had forgotten that the sway bar end link mounts were attached to the factory strut rods so now I have them back too!  I should now be able to use the factory end links I bought.  I had to go to a VFW function today so I had to stop playing with my Pinto stuff at 11:30 to get ready.  I didn't have a chance to compare the angle of the OEM strut rods to the Speedway arms, or wire wheel them, but I will get to that.  See my "treasure" in the attached pics.  I made an ebay purchase today...a Mustang II grill assembly.  I am going to build a nose cone around the grill.  It has the light assemblies so I think the Pinto running light/blinkers will  pop right in.  It has the Pony and looks to be in real nice shape in the pics.  I would like to find an inexpensive header panel so I don't have to build my nose from scratch but it looks like I may have to.  The header panel includes the headlight surrounds which I really don't need and they are fairly expensive, or at least more expensive than I want to spend.
Your Project / Re: Project Warhead
« Last post by Reeves1 on December 03, 2022, 12:59:02 PM »
Heat them like that will weaken the metal.

I'll buy them if you'll ship to Alberta ! I was going to buy some anyway....PM me if you want ?
Your Project / Re: Project Warhead
« Last post by rob289c on December 02, 2022, 06:44:28 PM »
I have an oxy-acetylene torch that would heat them cherry-red in seconds and they would easily bend.  By this time tomorrow I should have my old strut rods back.  I contacted the guy I gave the remnants of my Pinto to and he said I can have them back.  I will be stopping by his brothers farm where my old Pinto is and grab the parts I need.  The lower control arms, including the strut rods are in the hatch area so I will throw them in the back of the pickup and disassemble when I get them home.  Hopefully they are where I left them.  I will see if Speedway will take back the ones I bought.  Store credit will be fine as I will be buying more parts as I continue on my project.
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