Forum > Pinto FAQ

V8 conversion basics for '74 & up Pinto

(1/11) > >>

Engines that will fit.¬  289¬  302¬  351w¬  351c¬  429¬  ¬ 460¬  This writeup is meant as an overview for the '74-'80 models, i have not done a '71-'73 conversion so i'm not real sure what will work in those.

I'm sure you can get any engine to fit, given the time and enough money, but these are the most common ones. This article deals with the Windsor family of engines 289-302-351w¬  The Clevland and 385 series of engines (429-460) have even less parts available for the swap and in MY opinion require a great deal of custom fabrication and reconstruction ....especially with the 429-460 engines.¬  ¬ 

It's maybe about time i did this thread. I get a good number of emails, and private messages about my set up, what i used and how to do it. This thread will take me a day or three to complete so bear with me and i will finish it as i have the time, along with a how to on EFI conversion for a V8. The parts i used are just does not mean you can't substitute for something along the way ....if it it!¬  First off, a V8 powered Pinto is not meant to be a corner carver! It will not handle like its on rails....and would be suited for straight line acceleration (drag racing) and regular street cruising, so think about what you want your Pinto to do before you take the plunge.

Motor mounts- i used part number left-D7ZA-6B032-AA
¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  ¬  right-D72A-6038-AA

 They are from a '77 Mustang II 302, and they are pricey if you can find them at all. You also need the frame mounts from the Mustang II¬  OR you can use the Pinto 4 banger ones and modify the left one by relocating it back 1 full inch from centre of hole to centre.¬  A motor plate or engine plate can be used, however, they have no rubber mounts and will let the engine vibrations transmit through the car.


Here are the frame horns, they were drilled out to lighten them up ???

The trans crossmember, in the picture, you are looking at the front. The holes will need some modifying to fit, also you'll likely have to turn the rubber isolator 180 degrees to fit (part that actually attaches trans crossmember to the tranny) If your conversion is using a T5 tranny it should also work with this setup. The AOD overdrive tranny is close to the same length as the C4 (there are different length tailstocks made on both, for trucks, vans ect.) but the car trannies were about the same length, BUT....the mounting pad is located about 2 inches further back on the AOD and WILL reqiure some fabrication on the crossmember. The smaller Mustang II V8 C4 bellhousing (147 tooth flex plate) will fit in the trans tunnel with little to no modifications. The larger 157 tooth bellhousing will fit but it will require the trans tunnel/ firewall to be pounded with a BFH. The even larger (Van, truck, large car) 164 tooth bellhousing will reqiure MAJOR trans tunnel/firewall reconstruction .....don't bother using it as its a PITA. The AOD is also a 164 tooth flexplate but is fairly simular to the bell size of the 157 tooth and will need to have the tunnel/firewall recalibrated a bit more ;D¬  The C5 tranny is basically the same as a C4 but the bellhousing is longer to make room for the lock up torque convertor (i'm using a built C5 but with a C4 bellhousing and C4 convertor) and will throw off mounting location on the trans crossmember. The C6 for a smallblock requires WAY to much fabrication, they are also very heavy. I would steer clear of them completely.

The rear end issue for a V8 car....use an 8 inch or 9 inch or even an 8.8¬  but don't even bother with the factory 6.75 incher.....don't say i didn't warn you,¬  it will expire quickly with the torque of a V8! Some¬  V6 Pintos (wagons) and all mustang II 302 models will have an 8 inch from the factory. They will handle an automatic tranny V8 (my buddy Tom's '71 runs 11's with a 351w C6 8 inch combo) but will not take 5000rpm launches with slicks and a 4 or 5 speed tranny for very long. My Pinto has a 9 inch in it, but it was shortened to fit and they are also alot heavier (weight) than a 8 inch. In the picture are Mustang II V8 frame mounts.

Radiator.¬  Many different rads can be used, my rad is a custom made two row aluminum that is a copy of a Mustang II unit and i added more length to it (i cut the lower support out so it extends down about 3 inches more than the original rad) I AM A FIRM BELIEVER THAT THE FACTORY UPPER RAD SUPPORT SHOULD BE LEFT INTACT.¬  Sure it's a pain in the a$$ to put the engine in and take it have to make the engine and tranny verticle to get it in, but its worth the effort to keep the fenders and front end in general from moving around while driving and at idle. Tom's '71 has had the upper rad support cut (he didn't do it) and with it bolted together, it still has alot of front end pecially while at idle. With that said, it will have to be a trial and error on rad choice, take measurements and head to the wreckers to see if you can find something¬  (i'm sure others will post a suitable rad to use when i unlock this thread) The factory Pinto rad will not do the job.....don't even bother trying it! There will be very little room between the waterpump snout and the rad (if you took my advice on NOT cutting the factory core support) so electric fan (s) are needed. I mounted mine on the outside of the rad and wired it to be a pusher. (pushes air through the rad instead of pulling it through from the inside) I also had to modify the hood latch brakets to make the fan fit between it and the rad. I am going to use front hood pins now, so i can take the hood latch and most of the bracket out.


[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version