Some PRE 1974 info.

I never attempted this swap in a PRE-74, but IF I were to do it, I would 'locate' the tranny before doing anything. By that, I mean making and installing a bracket or fixture to make sure I KNOW where it is supposed to be (side to side and up-down) when remove the engine. Also, the fixture or bracket will need to be temporarily removed in order to remove the stock engine. Once the stock engine is out I would install the 2.3 (no waterpump or bolt-on items) to the tranny and re-set my fixture. Then I would modify the factory engine mount to frame brackets and bolt or weld them to the car. During all this the engine will still need to be supported semi-independently, even with the fixture mentioned. I would also keep in mind that I MIGHT want to lower the engine to get hood room BUT I would still do what I mentioned here and THEN do my drop. I don't know of any other issues that might arise, but there might be a few.

http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,9816.msg60988.html#msg60988


Bill

That should all bolt up. Depending on how well the donor was running, you might want to freshen it up. The bottom ends are very durable, but they are prone to head gaskets if the boost has been turned up. I did nothing to mine (170k) other than a good tune up, oil pump, water pump, time belt, front and rear seals, and assorted gaskets and hoses.

Unless you never use the extra power, you WILL need to replace the rear (if it is not an 8"). The 6.75" can't hold up to 85hp, I know, the one in our 78 is shot. The 8'" rear has a snout that is a bit longer, I have installed them in three stock pintos without any issues. I assume the pintos that came with those rears have a .5" to .75" shorter driveshaft. I am now working on the t5 install but the t5 tranny is longer than a stock pinto unit so I am now looking at a "custom" driveshaft from a fox body.

Are you talking about the comp. connections to the tranny? My donor was a stick, you might need to change and re-pin the comp. if you donor is an auto. That is a might, as all it might do is trigger a CEL that won't be hooked up anyway.

Bill

If you use the harness out of a Merkur XR4Ti... its a lot easier to wire... as the Merkur wasnt originally intended to have the 2.3T... it is wired in as a engine only harness.


Jim

That is NOT exactly true.
 The XR4TI was wired in Germany.
 The 2.3 was wired in Canada.
That is why it has a stand alone harness for the EFI.
 From Pintony

Well... the 2.3 Lima wasnt intended to go into the Ford Sierra...
Same thing.


Jim

Here are a few pics. Please note the manual kick down, not pretty, but it works great. This pic was taken before I put a 45* elbow the vac port. The fitting was very close to the hood.

More.

Thank you.

I plan to get more pics on here when I can.

Bill

Please note that I posted this from information in other threads, and modified it when I gathered new info so it might not 'read' that well.

Driveshaft info:

When swapped into a car that came with a 6.75” rear, the 8" rear pushes the stock pinto driveshaft forward about 1" or so; I would assume that Ford put a shorter shaft on them. I have never had any issues with 8" rears and stock driveshafts for the 6.75" rear, but the t-5 is longer than the stock pinto trannys (auto).

Pintos have different length driveshafts for different trannys and rears. I had a set of wagon leafs and the pins were the same distance from the front mounts, so I know they have the same wheelbase.

A driveshaft from a stock fox body will fit a T-5 to 8” rear IF the engine and tranny are in the STOCK LOCATION.  Be aware that when I searched I found that the Fox body car can have up to 7 different shafts, depending. Be sure you have the correct length, year and yoke.

I found the 77 Pinto m/t has a shaft about 43" weld to weld, and the a/t ones are about 44". Add 2" on either side to get on-center of the u-joints. The 8" rear pushes the shaft forward about 7/8" and the t-5 is about 1.75" longer than the stock c3. A shaft about 41" to 41.5" weld to weld (45"-45.5" at the u-joints) should be fine. Of all the ones I listed above, the V8 m/t one is the shortest at about 41.5" at the welds, but has the bigger u-joints DEPENDING on what year; the 86 and older ones take the same, front and rear as the Pinto FRONT. The Pinto rear takes a u-joint with two different size caps. 

I still had the driveshaft from my 79 2.3 4spd racecar. I put the a/t and the m/t shafts for 6.75" rear Pintos side by side. The a/t one is just about 1" longer. The 8" rear pushes it forward a little less than that, but I used the m/t one in the orange a/t car (last night) when I installed the 8" rear.


The following information is based on the 77/78/79 parts I have, or the swaps I have DONE:

C3 - 6.75"                      48" on-center of u-joints
4spd - 6.75"                       47" on-center of u-joints
C3 - 8"                               47" on-center of u-joints
C4 - 8" OR T-5 - 8"            45.5" on-center of u-joints

I never did one myself, but with the information I have I would assume that for a 4spd - 8" a 46"-46.5" (on-center of u-joints) would be needed.

 
The C4 trannys are longer than the C3's and the 4spds. I had a driveshaft shaft that was marked "2.0 Pinto" that was 45.5" O/C. If that was correct, it was most likely from a C4 - 8".

The end caps on the Pinto unit that u-bolt to the rear have a BIGGER diameter than the ones that are in the yoke, that is why they are different, where the fox ones are both the same size (but different sizes depending what year).

I installed the Pinto rear u-joint on the early fox driveshaft with no problems.

BTW: The EARLY fox u-joint will 'bolt' to the Pinto pinion, BUT the u-bolts will not clamp the u-joint properly to the rear axle. It will pinch, and over time (or abuse) cause it to fail.  2 of the 4 Pinto rear caps are 1.125" X 3.218" (overall width) that bolt to the rear yoke. IIRC, the other two are the same as the 4 on the front joint: 1.063” X 3.218”. The later Fox body ones are like 3.5" wide.

An AreoStar rear driveshaft from a 94-97 WITH AWD is also 45.5” O/C and Ford made some of them in ALUMINUM. It has the same u-joints as the early Fox (pre 87) and Pinto fronts, 1.063" X 3.218" wide, both sides front and rear. I have one of these in my yellow car and I will be putting one in the orange car when I do the C4 swap.

The yoke for a C3 will fit the PINTO 4spd. The slip yoke for a C4 and a T-5 are the same.

Also, after some measuring I did notice that yokes can be different lengths, from about 3.5" to 5", even if they fit the same trannys.

NAPA part #372 u-joint has the correct caps and width to install on the later Fox driveshafts and still connect to the 8". IIRC: You might have to swap the Pinto caps to it but they do fit (I did a BUNCH of measuring).

The only thing I have needed to do is swap the caps on the u-joint and use the same driveshaft.

I would like to state this fact again: The 8" rear yoke (where the u-joint bolts) is made for a cap that is 1.25". The fox body with the u-joints that are 3.218" wide have cap diameters of 1.063" on all the caps. The Pinto and 60's Mustang joints (maybe others too) have two caps at 1.063 and two that are 1.25". A 1.063" cap will bolt in, but is not correct

The 1980 Pintos call for a different part # rear joint, but I don't know why.


Bill

As mentioned in my first post, I have the 11" granada rotors up front. When I installed the 68 stang 8" rear, I used the 10" (I think) drums. I still have to give a lot of pedal "input", but it will stop now.

IMO: Anything better than the cheap stock pads and shoes should be done as a minimum. My car with manual brakes just did not give me the confidence I wanted, even before the swap.

Bill

What is I/C?

BTW, Currently gathering the parts to do a turbo Merkur to Pinto swap.

The current direction we are going is '88 T/C motor with the Big VAM, Brown Top injectors, and IHI Turbo. 

We are adding the Front Mount InterCooler, LA3 Computer, and a port and polish job on the heads.  We are using upgraded quality, stock-size brake replacement parts, and an 8-inch rear out of a '76? Mustang II.  Basic tune up items such as air cleaner, spark plugs, plug wires, etc. are being replaced with performance quality items.

It's all about research research research.

It's going to be at least a month before we'll be ready to put the motor in, probably two.  For total clearance of the turbo we were already expecting to make a change to the wheel well as it was originally designed to put the battery on (we are moving that to under the hatch). 

We will be taking all sorts of pictures as we go, and I was already planning on putting them here for all to see.

I have put the 87 TC motor in my Wagon with an IHI....clearan ce problems you better believe. So I'm going with an External Waste Gate (on the header) no problem then. I have an FMIC on my old wagon and on my new one I plan on going with a much larger one. My plans are a T3/T4 Hybrid, NPR Large FMIC, BOV (Blow Off Valve)or BPV (By Pass Valve I have a BPV now), basically I've learned with my firt project car. I'll post a link here (First Project Cruising Wagon, Second Project Deluxe Wagon) http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/turbowagonman/?

My second one is going to be Much Faster and Much More Refined than my first!

Well I don't have a pic with the Motor in the car BUT I have a pic from just before I scrapped the car. In the miidle of the inner fender you can see a hole in a Triagular shape that was the whole that I cut just to make clearence for the WG.
The pic is on my photobucket site. It's the first pic and the name of the pic is  'Inner_Fender.j pg'.

    http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/turbowagonman/?

Here is one more.

This is one of the upper intake that is going into Connie's Pinto. It has been modified to make it lower. I removed .5" out of it just above the lower flange. This should provide the clearence needed to shut the hood on the car. I might have to grind a little off the bottom t/b, and I will have to use gasket maker and a "tab" in the front to take up some of the extra space. My turbo car has no leaks with the same goop.

Bill