PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => Pinto FAQ => Topic started by: dianne on October 26, 2013, 08:38:51 PM
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Thought I'd put this here so people having the same problem can resolve it pretty easy. This is for when your rain gutter pops out in places. Mine rusted under it and there was popped up bad in 3 places.
OK, for those with pealing rain gutters I found the fix and seems to work good. The pictures don't show the rain gutters pealing and all rusted underneath, but think I posted one that was like that already. These rain gutters are pretty cool actually and the gutters were actually plastic I guess. So I took a dremel and small wire brush and ground them down to metal and no rust and the popped up gutter plastic to the edge. I used the brush and not a wheel for this, the wire wheel didn't seem to do the trick.
Got it to the point of being satisfied that I cured the rust and got the plastic wheeled out to the edge and then with my finger got some putty and filled it in. It worked pretty good. Sanded it with some good 3M 80 grit (the purple stuff) and then wet sanded some and this is the result of that.
The primer still needs to be wet sanded.
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Great addition to the forums here, will come in handy in the future, for sure!
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Thanks Dave, just had to figure it out I guess.
Has anyone else experienced this?
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I'm pretty sure what you refer to as "plastic" is actually seam sealer. Parts stores either have it or can get it in a caulking tube. It dries waterproof & especially in the gutters it's a good idea to apply a coat & smear it on like caulking a tub surround. The putty you used isn't waterproof & water may enter the seam & or rust will start forming. Seam sealer takes primer & paints just like body filler does.
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I'm pretty sure what you refer to as "plastic" is actually seam sealer. Parts stores either have it or can get it in a caulking tube. It dries waterproof & especially in the gutters it's a good idea to apply a coat & smear it on like caulking a tub surround. The putty you used isn't waterproof & water may enter the seam & or rust will start forming. Seam sealer takes primer & paints just like body filler does.
This is real thin, I don't think anything was caulked to be honest. The putty I used is the same I used on on other parts of the car, primed first than putty and then prime and then paint. I don't think that would rust unless paint is porous? I looked it up and I am using an acrylic urethane enamel.
http://automotivepaintcorrection.wordpress.com/
I think it should be safe. If you're 100% positive, I'll remove it and redo it.
This is the picture of the other side I need to do yet.
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I found what you were talking about:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Parts-Accessories-/6028/i.html?_sop=15&_nkw=Seam+Sealer&_vxp=mtr
They also have an attachment that would form it while applying it. This is what you're talking about?
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Yeah, that's the stuff in the caulking tube. I would take it back to bare steel & put a thin layer before paint. The factory used it to seal out water at the points panels overlap. This stuff is everywhere on these cars. If you lived in Arizona I'd say paint it & forget it but I would be safe & replace it.
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Yeah, that's the stuff in the caulking tube. I would take it back to bare steel & put a thin layer before paint. The factory used it to seal out water at the points panels overlap. This stuff is everywhere on these cars. If you lived in Arizona I'd say paint it & forget it but I would be safe & replace it.
OK, off it comes, just ordered it! I want it right and not to do it over again. May still get to paint it in two weeks if the stuff comes in!
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Once you open the tube that stuff has about a 12 hour shelf life no matter how well you seal the tube. Check all over the wheel well area, under the carpet, around the spare tire well or anyplace else that stuff is cracking, falling off or missing & glob it on. It dries in a day & you will be ready for paint.
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Once you open the tube that stuff has about a 12 hour shelf life no matter how well you seal the tube. Check all over the wheel well area, under the carpet, around the spare tire well or anyplace else that stuff is cracking, falling off or missing & glob it on. It dries in a day & you will be ready for paint.
Thanks for the tip! I'll go over the car before starting it. Do I put it on bare metal or primer first? I'm thinking of taking it all down now on the gutters. No one else seemed to have the same issue though. I wonder if I should do the Maverick also at the same time.
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Take it to bare anyplace you can. It was designed to seal bare metal. I had to replace some on my 80 & went through 2 tubes. My wagon gutters are like yours & will need done when I get to it.
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Take it to bare anyplace you can. It was designed to seal bare metal. I had to replace some on my 80 & went through 2 tubes. My wagon gutters are like yours & will need done when I get to it.
So when painting a car, it's probably best to do this to avoid any issues I would think/guess. Would the 1 tube do the two gutters on the Maverick and Pinto wagon you think?
Thanks for the help!
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If all other areas are good then 1 tube should be more than enough. I had areas under the fenders where most of it fell off & 1 tube did all that in a thick coat.
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If all other areas are good then 1 tube should be more than enough. I had areas under the fenders where most of it fell off & 1 tube did all that in a thick coat.
Off to bed. But not to sound stupid, but where under the fenders? Have a good night!
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Where the cowl is spot welded to the structure is covered in seam sealer. So are the outer kick panel areas
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Just a heads up Dianne, I resealed under the fenders and around the cowl when I repaired the rusted out sheet metal behind the fenders on both sides. Globbed that stuff on good! I bought the sealer I used at Boise auto paint supply, where I get all of my auto body and paint supplies.
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Just a heads up Dianne, I resealed under the fenders and around the cowl when I repaired the rusted out sheet metal behind the fenders on both sides. Globbed that stuff on good! I bought the sealer I used at Boise auto paint supply, where I get all of my auto body and paint supplies.
OK, then I'm covered! Thanks Dave!! Woo hoo!!!
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You wont need it too thick in the gutters. Just a good layer like the caulk around a tub. 1/4" thick at most in the corner formed where the roof skin meets the gutter.
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You wont need it too thick in the gutters. Just a good layer like the caulk around a tub. 1/4" thick at most in the corner formed where the roof skin meets the gutter.
Do I do it on bare metal or do I prime it first? All the primer on the car is in lacquer :)
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Do I do it on bare metal or do I prime it first? All the primer on the car is in lacquer :)
I'd apply it to bare metal if possible. That's how Ford did it. After it dries it can be primed, sanded then painted.
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I'd apply it to bare metal if possible. That's how Ford did it. After it dries it can be primed, sanded then painted.
Thanks, I'll need to do it in one swoop in a day. I also found that I ordered 3/8" tips and needed 1/4" ones.
Can't wait for the window tint on Saturday LOL :)
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Oh good grief, I have been spending SOOO much time on my gutters too! Between grinding them out, new seam sealer, sanding, and spot putty, they are finally getting there. I know they were never perfect from the factory BUT I really want them to be smooth and uniform.....
Chris
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Oh good grief, I have been spending SOOO much time on my gutters too! Between grinding them out, new seam sealer, sanding, and spot putty, they are finally getting there. I know they were never perfect from the factory BUT I really want them to be smooth and uniform.....
Chris
I'm the same pop Chris. I'm doing mine this weekend. I did putty and fixed them all, but them told I needed the seam sealer LOL - so now redoing them...
Worth the work though!