Author Topic: no start no crank (Read 8837 times)

bigmo1985 · « **on:** March 10, 2011, 12:05:21 PM »

I just bought a 80 wagon i don't know which trim it is all i know is that it has a 2.3L and it's an automatic, So i got it to the shop yesterday and when I go to crank it, it does nothing, the lights on the dash don't even go out they just dim. I tried to short out the starter solenoid and even when I did that it didn't do anything it made one good click noise and that's it but when i turn the key i can't get anything. This is my first ford product so i need as much help as i can get.

Thanks in advance

75bobcatv6 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 10, 2011, 12:06:52 PM »

have you Replaced or Charged the battery? sounds like that might be the problem

dave1957 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 10, 2011, 12:36:47 PM »

Try turning the motor over by a hand it might be frozen

Reeves1 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2011, 01:49:42 PM »

Check the battery cable from the battery to the starter for any rub through areas. Might be a direct short ?

Also check to make sure the battery posts are clean and tight.

Check the voltage of the battery. Charging OK ?

bigmo1985 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2011, 03:46:48 PM »

the battery is good just put a new one in it and didn't even think bout turning the motor by hand but it has only sat for 3 months before that was a daily driver. Any idea what size nut is on the crank

75bobcatv6 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2011, 06:35:07 PM »

Check the fuses in the fuse panel as well make sure they are all good

tinkerman73 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2011, 07:02:26 PM »

I know these systems are fairly easy. I like to tinker on garden tractors and olt rototillars etc. I had one once that I swore it had to be the battery. I would only get a click. I broke down and spent $40 in a new battery. I was ticked when I got a click! I had tried to jump through the starter selenoid. Still just a click. Ended up needed to replace the starter selenoid! The next step in my mind would be how is the starter. See, I would first put a nice wrench on the front of the crank and see if she turns. If the fella was truthful to you about no issues, then it certainly should not be froze up! ON a starter. If it was parked wet, there could be a slight surface rust on the bendix. If you try tapping on it moderatly(not heavy!) while someone tries to turn the car over. If that does not work, pull the starter and take it in to be tested. Beyond those two things dont know. If its not either/both, then it should therietically turn over!

Mike Modified · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2011, 07:14:19 PM »

Ground! Ground! Ground!

Check and cleant battery to chassis ground.

Check and clean engine to chassis ground.

Mike

bigmo1985 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 11, 2011, 06:47:58 AM »

update

i got it to turn over but now no start i think the jets in carb, clogged are these carbs a pain to rebuild and if not rebuildable, what is a ball park figure for a new carb. Oh and the problem was the battery that was in it had a bad cell, but tested fine with a hand held tester. Thanks for the advice.

tinkerman73 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 11, 2011, 07:33:34 AM »

If it ran three months ago, I would start by doing a quick and easy carb clean as well as putting some fresh gas in the tank with dry gas. If it ran three months ago and was a daily driver, then it shouldnt need much at all! My car was a driver, then sat for some time. Sat motionless durring the winter until I went to look at it. he had charged the battery and cranker her over. Startright up and I have put on around 400 miles on mine already. Only has about 75,000 miles on it in the last 34 years, so you know it has sat many times in its life! Go to the home page and do a search for rebuilding car. I am sure there must be something around here on the carb to help you figure out how to do a simple clean and if need be, a rebuild. The rebuild kit I think should still be available at your local parts store? I know mine is! Glad to hear that it did crank over for you!

bigmo1985 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 11, 2011, 09:44:22 AM »

thanks tinkerman my local auto parts store does have a kit i wish mine only had that many miles mine has well over 200000 but from what i was told she ran great now I'm just waiting to get her going again because my truck is KILLING me on gas i get 7 miles to the gallon so I'm trying my hardest to get her running again

r4pinto · « **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2011, 10:50:24 AM »

To see if it is fuel spray some starter fluid down the carb, pump the pedal a couple times & see if she attempts to start. If it does that confirms a fuel problem... That is if you haven't already tried that

tinkerman73 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2011, 12:26:02 PM »

Yes, 12 MPGs in my van is why I got the pinto(and to have a cool project vehicle HEHEHE). Good luck

75bobcatv6 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2011, 12:32:59 PM »

before opting to rebuild the carb, id check and make sure there is spark first. Remove the Coil wire from the Dist and test it against the Block or Manifold while Cranking the engine. if you have spark, then look at fuel =D Just my 2 cents

bigmo1985 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2011, 06:47:44 PM »

ok another update, got in it the shop and only had 55 psi on nunmber one and two then put oil on top of all the pistons and then got one and two up to 95 and 3 and 4 have 105. Can someone PLEASE tell me what the compresion ratio on this car and now i know that no fuel is gettin to the piston chambers but it is flooding itself at the carb. When i say flood i mean you it starts to spit fuel out the top of it. Some one please help

r4pinto · « **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2011, 08:38:13 PM »

Big Mo,

I would have to say you have a float issue or plugged jets in the carb somewhere. My 77 had a similar issue to where it was spitting gas & it turned out to be the float & plugged carb.

75bobcatv6 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 12, 2011, 12:14:13 AM »

psi should be 120-140 i "think"

71pintoracer · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2011, 08:12:05 AM »

fuel is most likely washing the cylinders down causing the low compression. fix the carb issue and change the oil, change the plugs and she should fire.

the 5200 series carbs are super simple.

Smurfette · « **Reply #18 on:** March 12, 2011, 03:15:50 PM »

Quote from: bigmo1985 on March 11, 2011, 09:44:22 AM

thanks tinkerman my local auto parts store does have a kit i wish mine only had that many miles mine has well over 200000 but from what i was told she ran great now I'm just waiting to get her going again because my truck is KILLING me on gas i get 7 miles to the gallon so I'm trying my hardest to get her running again

Actually, she's only got about 123XXX on her. I promise. I rolled her over her first 1k a few months after I bought her.

bigmo1985 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 14, 2011, 11:39:39 AM »

another update replaced that carb base plate gasket because it was almost completely gone, cleaned out the runners and re gapped the plugs, checked the firing order and made sure wires are where they are supposed to go still no start can some one help me out with a vaccum diagram for this carb. please

tpk · « **Reply #20 on:** June 27, 2011, 08:32:36 AM »

You may want to check the starter as it could be jammed or has a dead spot. In addition, the motor could be seized as the starter gear may already be engaged to the flywheel. Another check would be the solenoid as this could be bad.

Hope this helps and good luck.
TPK

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Author Topic: no start no crank (Read 8837 times)

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