PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => Pinto FAQ => Topic started by: CRUISEWAGON77 on January 25, 2014, 01:23:23 AM
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I have searched a lot about all the different options out there for go fast bolt ons, but most are based on stock engines. I have a lightly build 2.3 in my original 77' Cruisewagon that we'd like to keep stock as it's been in the family for 37 years now. The motor has been bored .30 over, larger intake valves, port matched head and an rv cam (comp cams 244/415 with 219dur @ 50deg). I'd like to hear options on what header (ranger/mustang), intake and carb. Like I said, I know this has been beaten to death, but I figured my motor tweaks may call for more.
Thanks,
Eric
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First of all look at "horsepower curves" below your posting. If you are cheap like me, get a mid 90's 2.3L ranger header. Then get a Motorcraft / Autolite carb in the size 1.08 to 1.21. Size is stamped on the carb. They all are 2100 carbs that come in several CFM sizes. They will bolt right up to your intake after you remove the 32/38 adapter. The carbs are in every junk in the country as they were on Ford car until they went to EFI. Parts are easy to get also. Hope this helps.
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I plan on running a holley 390 cfm, an offenhauser dual port intake, racer walsh stage 1 roller cam with stock stainless steel swirl port valves and the exhaust manifold from a late 80's ranger. (I'm told these flow better). You could use of the mid 90's ranger headers but I believe they need some modification. I'm excited to see how this setup works. I want a nice engine I could use as a daily driver tha is not overkill as I do not plan on racing it so I decided against larger valves and head work. I do also have a large open air cleaner assembly too.
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Thanks for the replies.
On those 2100 carbs, what do they normally come on and where is the number stamped? Would doing anything to the stock intake help for flow too?
On the manifolds, I've heard that too. Does anyone have any say that has been running one? Did they notice an improvement?
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The # is cast onto the side of the carb. The carbs were used on 260 to 390 Fords. Go to http://www.carburetion.com/ford2v.htm Go down to the bottom of the page and it will show what the CFM is for each number. I've cut / welded / added to / taken from / and nothing helped on the intakes. When I did one of the mods, the engine idled so bad it sounded like a fuel dragester. But on the track it ran just like it did before the mod. If you use a 2100 carb you will be able to run a smaller jet for the two inside runners. 1.08 / 1.14 / 1.21 are the size carbs that should work out very nice. Go to 4m.net to read more. Go to mini stock tech at the bottom of the page. Those people love the 2100 carbs.
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What about an efi intake, those supposedly flow better too right?
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To work they must be ported and you must use an adapter for the carb. Go to http://www.bo-port.com and look under intakes for a ported intake. With out the porting they are worse than the stock intake. You can make the stock intake work better by playing with the jets. Example is smaller jet for the center runners and bigger jet for the outside two runners.
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To work they must be ported and you must use an adapter for the carb. Go to http://www.bo-port.com and look under intakes for a ported intake. With out the porting they are worse than the stock intake. You can make the stock intake work better by playing with the jets. Example is smaller jet for the center runners and bigger jet for the outside two runners.
Thanks for that info. I will look around to see what I can find. Being that I'm not savvy with carburetor, do you have a jet recommendation to start with? Are they easy to find at a parts store?
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Go to http://www.carburetion.com/ford2v.htm to see all
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Great site with lots of info. What size jet would you start with though? Figured I will have to rebuild anything I find. Any wisdom on the factory manifolds on mustang vs ranger headers?
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Thanks for that info. I will look around to see what I can find. Being that I'm not savvy with carburetor, do you have a jet recommendation to start with? Are they easy to find at a parts store?
The ones that I know are running 57 size jets with a 4.5 power valve. Each set up will be different. What I have heard is they run good right out of the box.
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If the carb is sized to the motor out of the box should be right there or very close to it., unless drastic changes have been done of course.
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Most people that do mods on a Pinto tend to run a carb of around 350 CFM. The biggest Pinto carb was 297 CFM so any of the Motorcraft / Autolite 2100 carbs (1.08 / 1.14 / 1.21) are right in that CFM range. Those three carbs were on 260 / 289 engines and I'm there were others too. The Pinto people that said "right out of the box" were racers so the carbs might need smaller jet. No big deal as all the parts are easy to find. The mileage should be better because the mixture of fuel and air will much more even due to the carb having an even fuel discharge.
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And not to mention way easier to tune than the Holley/Weber.
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Most people that do mods on a Pinto tend to run a carb of around 350 CFM. The biggest Pinto carb was 297 CFM so any of the Motorcraft / Autolite 2100 carbs (1.08 / 1.14 / 1.21) are right in that CFM range. Those three carbs were on 260 / 289 engines and I'm there were others too. The Pinto people that said "right out of the box" were racers so the carbs might need smaller jet. No big deal as all the parts are easy to find. The mileage should be better because the mixture of fuel and air will much more even due to the carb having an even fuel discharge.
i used one of these off a / 360" ford truck motor on my '71 with a turbo. worked great and REAL easy to attend to if the need arose.
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The bigger 1.21 carbs easier to find on 352-360-390 engines. 429 and bigger probably got the 1.23 and one bigger, I forget the size.
The 1.08 commonly used on AMC V-8s too.
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Well I went to the U Pull it yard today and found a 79' Ranchero with a 351 in it. Snagged the 1.21 carb off of it, hope it's the right one =). The carb sheet from above showed the number as a 79 aftermarket (motorcraft) carb so I went for it. Thanks for all the help guys, and please chime in if I screwed up on this one.
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The 1.21 is just the venturi size, they commonly change everything else in the carb. Things like emulsion tube holes and power valve restrictions along with 15 other things are done separately for every model and engine carb is used on. No one except a factory master carb rebuilder could ever have an all-encompassing list of every single difference even in say all the 1.21s they made. Why they all come with ID tags, to sort them out.
In other words just like everyone else, you will be the test guinea pig here. With a little luck it should do fine.
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Does anyone have a picture of how they adapted the throttle cable on their 2100/2150 carb?
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I have an idea how I'm gonna do mine but right now it's just a visual, it would be nice to see some setups to get some other ideas.
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Also, what do you do with the PCV valve that goes into the egr base if that's removed?
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I believe some of the later carbs have a port on the back?, but the early ones used a spacer for PCV.
(http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mQs4QGlnJqK-3RkSiqp9ihQ.jpg)
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Is that an adapter? I was test fitting my last night and noticed I'm going to need more than just the stock spacer to have the base pump on the carb clear one of the runners. Also realized I won't be running a choke on the Autolite as it hits the valve cover, so I'll be wiring that open too. Do you know what cars those adapters came on? Anyone have one?
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That is a factory spacer from the 60's and 70's, the junk yards should be full of them or just make one, I got the pic from E-Gay.
Just got my intake and header yesterday, gotta clean them up today. Now to find the carb.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors-/6000/i.html?_nkw=Autolite+2100+pcv+spacer&_sop=15 (http://www.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors-/6000/i.html?_nkw=Autolite+2100+pcv+spacer&_sop=15)
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Seems like I may have been looking at a Mustang II V-6 carb spacer that may have had possibilities of cable mounting in the dark past at some time. FYI, the ATX kickdown rod must change shape a bit too if you've got one.
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Got my intake and header finally, now to get the carb.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0001Custom.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0003Custom.jpg)
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Got my intake and header finally, now to get the carb.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0001Custom.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b131/GoFastRacer/74%20Pinto%20Wagon/DSCN0003Custom.jpg)
Which carb setup are you going to go with? I was looking at one of those myself too, or the turbo efi intake.
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I'm planning on the Autolite 2100, probably make my own adapter..
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I'm planning on the Autolite 2100, probably make my own adapter..
I almost pulled the trigger on an Offenhauser intake today but wasn't sure, read mixed reviews. I'm still debating the adapter, don't know if I'm going to go stock, offy or efi turbo. Any opinions? Same thing on the header. I just bought a T5 out of a 89 mustang and got the cast manifold for free. I have a lead on the Ranger tubular manifold...whi ch one is better? (I don't really care about weight)
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I'm just gonna make an adapter out Phenolic so it'll serve as a heat shield at the same time, not sure about the height yet though?, never looked at the cast one but I'm sure they're better than the stock Pinto manifold, I bought mine mainly for the weight but if I would have gotten a cast one for free I surely would use it.
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Even though not a full length header there, anytime you line up all pipes so that they can blast parallel to each other in close proximity to each other you will increase power. The individual pressure pulses then can pull easily on other cylinder pipes that are not firing. The vacuum there increases extraction effect. Think of the header collector as a parallel firing gun.
I've seen one Ranger cast exhaust manifold that looked like it was a 4-2-1 type, that one might work well too.
Other than that, if the individual pipes join up at the log one at a time and spread out down the log, well that's not the hot setup. They tend to interfere with each other then.
Two different types of exhaust extraction. One is pure untimed vacuum like proper collected headers do, the other is timed according to pipe diameters and lengths. If header well made then both can happen. I've hooked up a vacuum gauge to a header collector to have it show constant up to 10-13 inches Hg. of vacuum at steady cruise on a street car. So much for 'necessary back pressure', which is a myth.
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Not trying to bust the posting... I have a Pinto 2.0 in my T Bucket and was wondering how zoomies will act? they are about 12" in length and run back on about a 30 degree angle.
I f your not interested in the ranger header I have a hooker style header that I could probably get rid of.
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They will kill torque when starting off BIG time. Only way they would help is when your flat out with both feet on the gas.
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I've been running an MG replica with the 2.3 for 20+ years using the Offy intake with the 390 Holley four barrel using #51 jets. Ford Motorsports cam. The header is from a 1979 Mustang, Turbo coupe bell housing w, '86 Mustang 5speed and MustangII 8", 4:11 posi. Street driven and autocrossed extensively. Performance is great and it's incredibly reliable.
Billderbeast
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Zoomies....... .............. uh, really bad idea.......... .............. ....on several fronts.
If they flow freely enough at that length you can guarantee burnt valves there. They must be longer to keep reversion from sucking back cold air that strikes the valves, the resultant warping hot/cold stops proper seating and the valve melts. Common say if a header tube cracks way short and you keep driving it. That affected cylinder later loses the valve. Happens all the time.
At that length you may as well run with bare cylinder head shooting fire, it'll look cool anyway. You will have tossed out any power weak as it may be that individual pipes can give. I personally refer to them as detuning an engine.
And they sound absolutely like junk.
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Zoomies are for blown motors.
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No need for scavenging with all that pop in there. Running so much mixture in there you must get it out as quickly as possible, true headers would slow that down from interference since the burned mix is so dense.