PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => Pinto FAQ => Topic started by: Scott Hamilton on August 18, 2013, 01:39:33 PM
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Some of you may know I had a little trouble with my Stock Holley 5200 on the recent Pinto Stampede. Today I replaced it with a Webber I ordered online...
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=K453 (http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=K453)
- Had to change one linkage piece from the old carb and everything else was a direct replacement. If you car has water Choke or an idle solenoid, you will have a few more things to work but this was a very easy swap and the engine runs fantastic. You know that flat spot inherent to the 5200s? Just smooth acceleration with the Webber. @ $259.00 it might be cheaper than a shop rebuilding your carb and setting up.
http://youtu.be/GJIPOE1M2z4 (http://youtu.be/GJIPOE1M2z4)
Here is a quick video I took to send to my Brother- Running sweet!
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And it's Shiney too....
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i was wondering about webber carb. having too many problems with my 5200 to wanna keep it anymore.do you think the 74 2.3 linkage will swap over easy.
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Everything is exactly as the 5200 except the piece that actually touches the pinto linkage rod.
This piece pulls off your old carb and can be placed on the new. I have worked on 2300 engines when I was a teenager and 'believe' they are the same but would need someone to confirm.
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Funny, I just fixed a random miss (mainly at idle) that I've had for a while via replacing my distributor cap (rotor had contacted one of the terminals, causing the miss, I suspect...but I also replaced my points/condensor with NOS Ford parts at the same time, so who knows for sure), and in driving today, I noticed that while the car will get out of its own way again (and runs freaking sweet!!! :D), there is a flat spot just off idle. Is that the flat spot you refer to here?
I thank you for this info, but I assure you, my wife won't! :D lol
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Yup - flat just off idle -
You can re-engineer the 5200, I had a carb shop in Idaho do for me... It worked great and lasted until the Stampede. The Webber is even better.
Unfortunately, that classic carb shop is closed, they did great work!
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Unfortunately, this would have to wait. I just dropped $80 on a K&N 56-1010 5 minutes ago (priorities, and all...the cheap Redline air cleaner I had was developing holes after 8000 miles :() Also, something about 'you work on your car all the time, but never mine' or something. :)
Any idea what they did to fix your flat spot? I'm good with my hands. :)
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Wow, I drove those carbs for years and never had flat spot problems at all. But then I drilled holes a place or two in mine to change things up. Not for a flat spot though, rather to make car work well with a header.
With a Hooker header, 2.0 intake on a 2.3 motor, and some light head porting the basically otherwise stock engine made my guess maybe 130 HP and was a joy to drive with ATX in a Mustang II. Car ran right up until destroyed in a major hailstorm in '95. If you have to raise idle screw enough so that you get the throttle plate too high in the transfer slot you can easily get flat spot on sudden opening of throttle. The solution is to drop the plate back down to correct and drill a slight hole in the plate to let the extra air come in that would otherwise be going around the plate with the idle set higher to open plate further. That way you still have the full fuel supply of the transfer slot to stop the flat spot.
Older engines have slightly less vacuum and how you end up with throttle plate too far open to begin with. They need a bit more aircrack there.
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You need to define 2.0, Kind Sir. There are 2: The 2.0 EAO, and the 2.0 that is a Brazilian smaller brother of the 2.3. They are different, and for posterity's sake, should be defined to avoid confusion here, where we discuss the 2.0 'Pinto' and the 2.3. People get confused.
Otherwise, good info.
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No flat spot on mine just drools after shut down, gonna dissect it today and see what's up and freshen er up.
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Mine did that when I first got it. You could look down the primary bore and there would be a 1/4" of gas sitting on the butterfly. Rebuilt it, hasn't done it since. Not sure what was wrong, but it was obviously something. lol
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Well, this one came with the car so I have no idea what's inside but it looks like a reman?, I'm thinking maybe the check ball in the shooter cavity is missing?..
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Well, this one came with the car so I have no idea what's inside but it looks like a reman?, I'm thinking maybe the check ball in the shooter cavity is missing?..
Could be, they're there for a reason.
@Scott: I'm amazed. I ordered one last night (found it for $199 on eBay), and she hasn't said a word. I did let her ride in the car this evening...mayb e it's a 'Well, it does get better every day!) man win? :) lol Also a jetting kit...I'm giving mine a little more gas. :)
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Got it all apart today and the two check balls were there, bowl had a bunch of crap in it so I'm sure it just needs a good cleaning.
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I rebuilt mine with a kit from AutoZone, but the listing has disappeared.
That being said...mine works splendidly, but it is original to my 72 auto...and it wants more gas. $20 plus shipping. :) I'm just tired of the water choke, more than anything. lol
Speaking of my 5200, not my Weber. Just so we're clear.
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Got a kit from a local Parts store here, if I get enough time tomorrow I should get it done. You're not selling yours are ya??..
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Got a kit from a local Parts store here, if I get enough time tomorrow I should get it done. You're not selling yours are ya??..
Lol. Yep. Somebody should want it. I just h8 the water choke. Oh, and that whole 'not really tuneable for power' thing. You know, whatever. :) lol
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Some early '71 cars were factory equipped with a Weber (32/36) progressive secondary carb.
Later the carbs were (are) the same. However they were manufactured by Holley with license from Weber. In my experience the early carbs , either design, were identical right down to primary and secondary main jet sizes; idle air jet and emulsion tube sizes and design,
Personal experience met with no difference on a reasonably stock motor with any idle airjet or emulsion tube changes (not sure about now, but back then an enormous combinations of idle air jet/emusion tube configurations was available). But a world of difference could be felt with no. Mileage decrease with a drill size bigger in both the primary & secondary main jets.
I never had any experience with flat spot incidents on any I used. That could very well have been due to the fact that all the cars I worked on were at the time essentially new cars. Take notice that the time period I am referring to is 1970-1973 (early.
The 32/36 IS, on the early cars, a Weber Carburetor.
If you want to wake it up (an early one that is) make sure you have a decent valve job (I used to do my own and some creative valve seat 'massaging will do wonders), a bit bigger on the main jets both primary & secondary (leave all the other ones alone) and a recurve of the distributer will work wonders without hurting mileage at all.
If you have a 'hotter' motor & still want more but wish to stay with a 2bbl carb then consider a 38/38 DGV which is darn near bolt on but has both barrels opening simultaneously .
Just my 2 cents.
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By the way, another of my $00.02 worth; the 32/36 not being tuneable on the early cars is a bunch of crap.
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Later the carbs were (are) the same. However they were manufactured by Holley with license from Weber. In my experience the early carbs , either design, were identical right down to primary and secondary main jet sizes; idle air jet and emulsion tube sizes and design,
Mine says that on the bottom of the float bowl.
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Lol. Yep. Somebody should want it. I just h8 the water choke. Oh, and that whole 'not really tuneable for power' thing. You know, whatever. :) lol
Where you at?, wouldn't mind having another one to experiment with.
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Yeah finding parts can be hard, but if you are willing to go the way of the drill then these are among the most tunable carbs on the planet.
If someone referring to me earlier the 2.0 I mentioned was the German 2.0 not the smaller 2.3. The one with 3 cam towers not 4.
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Yeah they do seem pretty simple, not into drilling jets though it's not just the hole size it's the flow, I've seen it go both ways on that something I learned many moons ago. Friend of mine had a Falcon drag car with Tunnelport 427 with 2 4's on it, one day at the track he was running kinda lean so he decided he was gonna try drilling jets so we did and it worked, two passes and the car went faster each time, but third time 3/4 track it was a melt down and holed two pistons was that ever a surprise, (at the time I didn't know that he already talked to someone about that and he was told you don't drill jets) so he took the jets and had them flowed and they flowed less then than in their original state before the first drilling, big learning curve there,LOL. I also learned that with my injectors not to mix different brands of pills, I had the same number pill from two different brands and they both flowed different.
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Where you at?, wouldn't mind having another one to experiment with.
Just outside of Nashville, TN. Probably should hold on to it for a week or two, though, cause this is my daily ride back and forth to work. A call of 'I'll be there in 45, I had to change my carb back out on the side of I40' is better than 'I won't be there today.' (Got to love a motorhead boss!) lol
Guess when I upgrade cams, I'll be offering the Weber up, too. lol. Do they make a 38/38 with the 'F' oval neck vs the 'G' square neck? Guess one way or the other, I can mod my K&N. :) lol
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Just outside of Nashville, TN. Probably should hold on to it for a week or two, though, cause this is my daily ride back and forth to work. A call of 'I'll be there in 45, I had to change my carb back out on the side of I40' is better than 'I won't be there today.' (Got to love a motorhead boss!) lol
Guess when I upgrade cams, I'll be offering the Weber up, too. lol. Do they make a 38/38 with the 'F' oval neck vs the 'G' square neck? Guess one way or the other, I can mod my K&N. :) lol
Wow quite a ways away probably be a killer on the ride, but let me know when you decide to part with it I may still get it from ya..
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Some early '71 cars were factory equipped with a Weber (32/36) progressive secondary carb.
Later the carbs were (are) the same. However they were manufactured by Holley with license from Weber. In my experience the early carbs , either design, were identical right down to primary and secondary main jet sizes; idle air jet and emulsion tube sizes and design,
Personal experience met with no difference on a reasonably stock motor with any idle airjet or emulsion tube changes (not sure about now, but back then an enormous combinations of idle air jet/emusion tube configurations was available). But a world of difference could be felt with no. Mileage decrease with a drill size bigger in both the primary & secondary main jets.
I never had any experience with flat spot incidents on any I used. That could very well have been due to the fact that all the cars I worked on were at the time essentially new cars. Take notice that the time period I am referring to is 1970-1973 (early.
The 32/36 IS, on the early cars, a Weber Carburetor.
If you want to wake it up (an early one that is) make sure you have a decent valve job (I used to do my own and some creative valve seat 'massaging will do wonders), a bit bigger on the main jets both primary & secondary (leave all the other ones alone) and a recurve of the distributer will work wonders without hurting mileage at all.
If you have a 'hotter' motor & still want more but wish to stay with a 2bbl carb then consider a 38/38 DGV which is darn near bolt on but has both barrels opening simultaneously .
Just my 2 cents.
Have not installed, but from visual observation, I can say: there is no drilled hole for the decel valve, the accelerator pump 'squirter' is dual-discharge vs single, and it comes (generically) jetted much richer. It may be a 'Holley, under license from Weber', but a 5200 does not a Weber make. :)
I say again: 'Emissions-rated carburetor'. :) Not the same thing.
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Mine is double discharge too, thought about plugging the secondary side up and see what happens, can always drill it back out if it don't work but I can't see having fuel dumped on the secondary when it's closed.
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Never intimated that the 38/38 was an emissions rated carb.
The 38/38 would of course have dual squirters because both throttle plates open simutaneously not progressively
References to Holley and Weber were in relation to early 71 vehicles as stated.
All statements were made based on my experiences on my car many years ago in 1971 on my (stock from the factory Weber 32/36 equipped manual trans) Pinto.
Good luck sorting yours out. I know once you get there it will have been worth the 'trip'.
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Some early '71 cars were factory equipped with a Weber (32/36) progressive secondary carb.
Later the carbs were (are) the same. However they were manufactured by Holley with license from Weber. In my experience the early carbs , either design, were identical right down to primary and secondary main jet sizes; idle air jet and emulsion tube sizes and design,
Personal experience met with no difference on a reasonably stock motor with any idle airjet or emulsion tube changes (not sure about now, but back then an enormous combinations of idle air jet/emusion tube configurations was available). But a world of difference could be felt with no. Mileage decrease with a drill size bigger in both the primary & secondary main jets.
I never had any experience with flat spot incidents on any I used. That could very well have been due to the fact that all the cars I worked on were at the time essentially new cars. Take notice that the time period I am referring to is 1970-1973 (early.
The 32/36 IS, on the early cars, a Weber Carburetor.
If you want to wake it up (an early one that is) make sure you have a decent valve job (I used to do my own and some creative valve seat 'massaging will do wonders), a bit bigger on the main jets both primary & secondary (leave all the other ones alone) and a recurve of the distributer will work wonders without hurting mileage at all.
If you have a 'hotter' motor & still want more but wish to stay with a 2bbl carb then consider a 38/38 DGV which is darn near bolt on but has both barrels opening simultaneously .
Just my 2 cents.
I have installed the Weber 38 DGAS non Progressive on a stock 2.0L with headers, OMG !!!!! now that's where the Torque and HP were hiding! :P Screw the Smog check , My 9 inches of tires went up in a smoking Blizzard! It was soo good that I swapped complete intakes just for a Smog check for the day. I still have those goodies for when I build another street car!
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Never intimated that the 38/38 was an emissions rated carb.
The 38/38 would of course have dual squirters because both throttle plates open simutaneously not progressively
References to Holley and Weber were in relation to early 71 vehicles as stated.
All statements were made based on my experiences on my car many years ago in 1971 on my (stock from the factory Weber 32/36 equipped manual trans) Pinto.
Good luck sorting yours out. I know once you get there it will have been worth the 'trip'.
I was not insinuating that you were, I was referring to the 5200 vs DFEV, in particular.
The carb I received, after taking it apart, was jetted this way from the factory:
Idle jets: 55/50
Mains: 137/140
Air correctors: 165/160
Emulsion tubes: Unknown, not taking it back apart. (lol)
Tomorrow morning, it goes on with idle jets 65/70, mains 140/145. Air correctors unchanged. I'll report back.
Enjoy your 3 day weekend!!!
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Does anyone know if the Weber has the high speed pullover enrichening circuit that the Holley 5200 does? The outlet for it is high in the carb, around the choke plates.
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Weber breakdown.
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/weber_carburetor_schematics/3236DGAVEV.pdf (http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/weber_carburetor_schematics/3236DGAVEV.pdf)
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Does anyone know if the Weber has the high speed pullover enrichening circuit that the Holley 5200 does? The outlet for it is high in the carb, around the choke plates.
Power valve? If so, yes. If not, please clarify. :)
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No, not power or enrichment valve, not part of main jet circuit either. A separate very high speed only circuit that works only at high airflows. The discharge for the fuel is way up high around the choke plate. No screw in jet parts for it, part of casting and not shown in Holley pics. Intended to make up for the high speed lean out that four cylinders go through when they begin to show reversion at high rpm.
If you pull top cover/choke housing, there may be a brass dowel in one port there on bottom surface, thinking that was a restriction for it. The actual outlet is in the choke housing, thinking primary. IIRC, been a while, I seem to have misplaced my Mike Ulrich Holley 5200 book, that showed it. Outlet is high and in the bigger choke area to make sure it does not work until very high rpm. It pulls from a blank hole in fuel bowl, no jet there. There is a blank passage on both barrels IIRC but one does not get used?
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My Google research says they do have a high speed enrichment circuit. :)
Carb is installed with the prior stated jettings. It smells just a touch rich, but I have yet to play with the ignition advance. ;) And it is really happy. :) And set at, I believe...appx 3/4 turn on the air screw and 1 & 3/4 on the mixture screw.
Electric choke is AWESOME!!!!!! :D lol I'll report back with the Gates part number pre-molded hose I used to do that (smartly circumvent the water choke) tomorrow. Also, this conversion needs a fuel pressure regulator. Anymore than 3.5 psi, and a Weber will puke gas into the fuel bowl.
A 5200 has a small orifice in the 5/16 inlet, a Weber doesn't. :)
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Test: Someone verify if you can see this video. This is with Weber. :)
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=201223880049955&saved
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I can see it.
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I can see it.
Does it sound awesome? :) lol
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Does it sound awesome? :) lol
It does sound good.(http://www.fordpinto.com/Smileys/default/smiley.gif)
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Just got back from the first official test drive (had to run and get a few odds and ends I forgot yesterday, like air cleaner bolts [my old carb was tapped 1/4-20, and I didn't want to do that to my brand new carb] and a new fuel filter to finish the project this morning). A little bit more adjusting is in order, I think, but all in all, it was well worth the money, if for nothing else other than the electric choke. :)
Also got a new alternator, cause my light's been flickering and the one I'm running sounds mildly like a turbo...and the Missus said I needed a shinier one. That right there is a good woman. :) lol
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Test: Someone verify if you can see this video. This is with Weber. :)
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=201223880049955&saved
Wow sounds great. So this is the stock Burton cam and the carb change or are there other changes? What change made the greatest improvement?
Are you running headers? If so which ones?
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Wow sounds great. So this is the stock Burton cam and the carb change or are there other changes? What change made the greatest improvement?
Are you running headers? If so which ones?
This is the cam I linked in your thread (in a 7000 mile from fresh head re-work), the new carb, a stock exhaust manifold and a no-name glasspack. No header yet, but it's on the list. I also have a theory about the intake manifold design (the middle two runners are half the length of the 1 and 4), but my fab skills/equipment aren't that advanced at this point. :) lol
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Scott, I didn't mean to hijack your thread, but keeping info in a single thread helps with future searches. :)
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If you're talking 2.0 liter you'll have heck trying to outdo the stock intake manifold, they actually work quite well and outperform many aftermarket ones. Even with the unequal length runners.
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This is what my final install looks like, minus air cleaner and choke wire (Stator terminal on the alternator is the correct location [only provides power when the motor is running])...
https://www.facebook.com/shawn.roberts.12327/posts/201215893384087
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If you're talking 2.0 liter you'll have heck trying to outdo the stock intake manifold, they actually work quite well and outperform many aftermarket ones. Even with the unequal length runners.
But if you could make one with equal length runners...air in, air out. No cylinder left behind!!! lol
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Clean setup. ;)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1269257_201215843384092_458552954_o.jpg)
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She does sound great, really good.... Always love to see fellow 2000cc guys and their toys. No problem, no hijacking here... Just more info for everyone.. Great stuff!
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Just a quick follow-up, cause those are important:
Driveability is WAY improved. No more surge at 40-45mph cruise, and it reacts instantly when you give it throttle. Still some minor toying to be done with the fast idle/choke adjustment, and I'm testing at work (bare concrete, parking in the same spot everyday, tracking soot marks)...I think the first step I'm going to take is to pull a plug when I get there tomorrow to verify how it's running at mid-rpm, cause it loads up when you start it cold (63 degrees this morning) but doesn't when warm (84 degrees when I left work), so I think the choke is set too rich. If this doesn't fix the soot marks, next step is backing down to 60 primary idle jet. Will report back.
Oh...did I mention how sweet it sounds when you floor the gas peddle now, either from idle or at speed? Lol. :) Well worth the investment. :) Also need to grab the part number for the hose I used to bypass the hot-water choke.
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Quote from SRT"If you want to wake it up (an early one that is) make sure you have a decent valve job (I used to do my own and some creative valve seat 'massaging will do wonders), a bit bigger on the main jets both primary & secondary (leave all the other ones alone) and a recurve of the distributer will work wonders without hurting mileage at all."
Hey SRT: Just got a Stock 2.0 Burton Cam kit today and planning on a head rework for hardened seats and whatever else we discover it needs later in the week. I'm curious about the recurve of the distributor you mentioned. Was this for a stock set-up? Do you recall the settings you ended up with? Trying to find someone local with a distributer machine. Guess I need to find some springs as well. I'm working with a new Reman distributor and I haven't verified where it is set now.
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Hey Steve, also a question about the distro curve... Years ago you could buy distributer weights to make it advance quicker... I have tried several times to find these since it's the same on the VW... Is this what you are talking about and if so where is there a source of these today?
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I've been window shopping ignition parts, as well. Does anyone know what model Bosch our distributor is? They have weird numbers, like 005, 090, etc. *Eta: Googling around, it looks like it's HF 12100. Whether that's the Bosch # or a Ford number, I have yet to determine. :)
As a follow up, decided the 65 primary was a tad too big and the kit didn't have a 60, so went back down to 55 for the primary idle. Way less rich at idle, but bordering on too lean, according to mixture screw setting. I think a 60 would be about right. I could install a leaner air corrector for the primary side to achieve the same approximate effect, but I'd rather not get into that since that alters air proportions for the entire primary circuit.
Thinking about changing the 70 secondary for the 65 I took out of the primary side.
Initial results positive on driveability with the smaller primary idle, but I think 2 steps down was too much, just as 2 steps up seemed to be.
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Where do you get your jets at?, if you don't mind me asking.
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Posting this here, and in General Discussion.
Just found on ebay(UK), you can get the equivalent of a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion kit for a 2.0 for $46.61USD, free shipping to the US. That's $30~ less than the Ignitor I, and $60 less than the Ignitor II. Reviews I've found from the UK are highly positive.
*Price based on yesterday's currency conversion. May vary by a few cents. :) lol
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERSPARK-Electronic-Ignition-for-the-Bosch-distributor-Ford-Pinto-/360508348532?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53eff8d874
Messaged seller. Now the listing shows $10 shipping to US. Lesson learned. Buy first, and deal with the consequences later. lol Still comes in at $20 less than the standard Pertronix. Will update with seller's response regarding warranty. Maybe he didn't like my proper American English??? lol
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Where do you get your jets at?, if you don't mind me asking.
Specifically, this is where I got my kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281155905196?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
There are sources if you just want to get one size up from where you are, but, in theory the kits are a better deal since shipping (if you order a la carte) is usually as much as the cost of each single jet, per jet.
They're not perfect (Idle jets: 55, 65, 70,75,80...??? I need a 60!!! lol), but I figure it this way: I'm set for cam upgrade, and whatever future mods I may do. lol
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Thanks for the link, not a bad deal free shipping and all, yeah it can be a killer buying one at a time, never fails the one you need is always missing, lol..
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Thanks for the link, not a bad deal free shipping and all, yeah it can be a killer buying one at a time, never fails the one you need is always missing, lol..
Mine seems to love the dual 55 accelerator pump jet. Off to change my alternator. :) lol
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Same price, has the 60's, and every other jet I'm currently loving: http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-Redline-32-36-DGV-Carburetor-Carb-Jetting-Jet-Pack-Kit-4-or-6-Cyl-/331022108269
Contacted my original seller to see if we could work out a new-for-new 55 for 60 swap. lol
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Posting this here, and in General Discussion.
Just found on ebay(UK), you can get the equivalent of a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion kit for a 2.0 for $46.61USD, free shipping to the US. That's $30~ less than the Ignitor I, and $60 less than the Ignitor II. Reviews I've found from the UK are highly positive.
*Price based on yesterday's currency conversion. May vary by a few cents. :) lol
Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERSPARK-Electronic-Ignition-for-the-Bosch-distributor-Ford-Pinto-/360508348532?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53eff8d874
Messaged seller. Now the listing shows $10 shipping to US. Lesson learned. Buy first, and deal with the consequences later. lol Still comes in at $20 less than the standard Pertronix. Will update with seller's response regarding warranty. Maybe he didn't like my proper American English??? lol
$50, same thing, free shipping. Link:http://www.hot-spark.com/1-Bosch-Distributors.htm
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Same price, has the 60's, and every other jet I'm currently loving: http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-Redline-32-36-DGV-Carburetor-Carb-Jetting-Jet-Pack-Kit-4-or-6-Cyl-/331022108269
Contacted my original seller to see if we could work out a new-for-new 55 for 60 swap. lol
Almost need to buy both kits,lol.
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$$50, same thing, free shipping. Link:http://www.hot-spark.com/1-Bosch-Distributors.htm
I bought one of those for my VW bug, took 5 minutes to install had it for 2 years now works great.
http://www.hot-spark.com/1-Bosch-Distributors.htm (http://www.hot-spark.com/1-Bosch-Distributors.htm)
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Awesome.
I can confirm that the UK seller does honor the warranty. Can't confirm regarding the Hot-Spark, but it does carry the same warranty.
My advice: Always keep a spare set of points/condensor in the car, and more importantly... the tools and know-how to change/set them. Stranded sucks. lol
Also: Initiated conversation regarding offering stock European versions of Dura-Spark for us 2.0 guys on this side of the pond. They apparently weren't aware that the 2.0 was dropped over here the year before Dura-Spark. :)
Will report back.
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Can't confirm the warranty on the Hot-Spark either since I didn't have to send it back,lol.. Now that they know, maybe they'll start offering it over here?..
Better yet just keep a spare distributor with you in a box, easier to pop a distributor than changing out the parts.
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Hey, anybody have a bone stock Holley 5200 that you wouldn't mind parting with??..
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Well. Yes, I do. But my wife set the price at 80 bucks, with shipping. Sorry, but she is cuter than you. :) lol
But I do love your car, Sir! Pm me.
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Sorry, but she is cuter than you. :) lol
Well, I sure as heck hope so, LOL...
But I do love your car, Sir! Pm me.
Well thank you kind sir, PM sent..
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New thread: http://www.fordpinto.com/pinto-faq/weber-conversion-jet-sizes/