38 Guests, 1 User
AV80R

Author Topic: Tranny swap auto to T5. Need parts  (Read 870 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Jgturtl

  • Pinto Driver
  • *
  • Posts: 4
  • FeedBack: +0/-0
  • Gender: Male
  • The OTHER pony!

  • Total Badges: 6
    Badges: (View All)
    Fifth year Anniversary Topic Starter Signature Windows User Apple User Mobile User
Tranny swap auto to T5. Need parts
« on: August 22, 2015, 01:29:23 PM »
Changing my 75 over from a C3 to a T5. No parts cars over here on the east coast. I need a clutch pedal and linkage. And any advise too. I've seen a few of you that have already done this swap.
😎🐢

Offline Wittsend

  • Pinto Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2043
  • FeedBack: +239/-0

  • Total Badges: 8
    Badges: (View All)
    Tenth year Anniversary Mobile User Topic Starter Poll Voter 1000 Posts Linux User Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
Re: Tranny swap auto to T5. Need parts
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2015, 12:16:12 AM »
1. You will need both pedals. So, make sure you get a set. Also, there were (as far as I was told) four different pedal sets used on Pinto's. Hopefully someone with a '75 can properly direct you.   

2.There are numerous bellhousings. The early Turbo Coupes had the bellcrank style. I believe it was the Murkur that had the direct pull. But, if you can't find Pinto's I doubt you'll find a Murkur. There is also the 87-88 T/C housing that uses a hydraulic system. Some have adapted an aftermarket master cylinder. On the T/C the master cylinder is actually in the car parallel to the steering column and would not adapt well - if at all. Frankly I find the bellcrank a simple system that works well.

3. The trans crossmember can just be reversed and the two mount holes slotted all the way to the back. If the C-3 mount is the same as the C-4 it can be reused (if any good).

4. You will need the clutch cable. There is an issue with the cable hole on the bellhousing positioning it too low and through flexible it can interfere with the front crossmember.  Many use a steel plate with a hole to elevate the cable. It also tends to move the cable outward and it helps to slightly bend the bellcrank outwards slightly.

5. You will have to cut the transmission tunnel opening forward about 3-1/2". I found the stock T/C shift lever too long and too far forward to feel comfortable. I cut and repositioned mine to suite. But, beware because it is easy to have it create odd motions that are not conducive to proper shifting. There are different tailshafts, but I have never looked into them and where they place the shifter.

6. The driveshaft is a matter of what you have and what you used. I went from a C-4 / 6-3/4" rear to a T-5 / 8" rear and my shaft and yoke fit perfectly.

7. Make sure you get a T-5 for a 2.3. The V-6 and V-8 T-5's have a different input shaft length.

8. Lastly make sure you get a World Class T-5. The Non-World Class T-5's are a lesser transmission.