An F150/250/etc. frame-mounted pump like Wittsend has is the only one I know of, but surely there are others. Early 2.3T cars had two pumps, but I don't know that the external one is suitable for use without the accompanying low-pressure lift pump in the tank.

If you skipped over post 146 have a look.

I must have! I think you posted a few seconds before I did, and I just missed that altogether. That will get me going until I can get something shiny.

Just from reading.  When under heavy load and the throttle is quickly shut, a large back pressure develops causing turbo problems (the blow off valve releases this back pressure).  This usually is only a concern with a large intercooler (big reservoir).  Ford did not feel the need for a blow off valve with their Lima turbo offerings (small or no intercoolers).  If you are going with a front mount intercooler, a blow off valve would probably be good.  To minimize the noise, use a blow off bypass valve that releases the pressure to the turbo inlet (after air the filter and air meter if used).  If using a pressure release valve, the blow off bypass version is needed if using a air flow meter so all air used by the engine is measured.   The standard blow off valve version just releases the air to the local atmosphere (unmetered), creating the unmuffled noise.

Yeah, I think I talked myself out of that idea. I'm trying to decide on which pulley system to go with now(v-belt or serpentine). I think the alt. pulleys will change over so I can run the serpentine with my pinto alt. bracket and original alt. Or I can switch all the v-pulleys to the turbo, but I'm not certain that the timing marks will match, not certain they won't either. I like the idea of the serpentine, and it seems less of hassle. And maybe trimming all the extra pulleys that won't have a belt on them.

I'm running a stock Turbo Coupe replacement clutch in my car and it feels a lot like a typical stock clutch, but bites harder than the tires can. A Pinto is going to be a lot easier on it than the 3400-3600lb 'Bird, especially with some gear and short tires.

The clutch was branded as Luk, but the disc said Valeo who has been an OEM supplier to Ford for a long time.

I recall someone saying that are actually the same clutch.  When I was at the yard getting my bellcrank bellhousing (years ago) I noticed that the clutch disc was decent (A Valero). A few days later I got a disc at Autozone and frankly it was thinner that the used one at the yard. A few days after that I was passing the yard went in, and sure enough the disc and pressure plate were still there.  I popped then up on the counter, the guy said $8.00 and I yanked my wallet out so fast it probably broke the sound barrier.

Like 65SC said the tires are weaker than the clutch. With the bellcrank the pedal is light and very progressive.  In my option the smoothness of engagement makes it an ideal setup for teaching someone how to drive a stick shift. Perhaps if your incline to dump the clutch..., less so.  For me who likes to impress my passengers with a gradual but steady increase in throttle/boost from 40 MPH in 3rd gear clutch bite is irrelevant.

Regarding the Luk clutch, I put one in my old Mazda 323. Luk doesn't seem to necessarily to be a manufacturer, but rather a compiler of parts. My Luk clutch had a disc from Mexico, a P- plate from South Africa, a throw-out bearing from Japan and the alignment tool was from right here in the USA.  Regardless my searching reviews showed people liked them and I's say they have a good reputation.

Hopefully 65 SC will chime in. He put an upgrade alternator in, but I'm not versed on it to speak.  With a wagon I opted to put the battery in the drivers side, front. I used the factory alternator, but made my own bracket out of bed frame angle iron (the factory T/C bracket is large and ugly).  My goal was to get the alternator as close to the engine as possible as I needed the clearance for the battery.  The bracket needed a few notches as I'm sure you can see near the alternator and the timing belt cover. The wrap around on the water pump is minimal, but I have not had slippage problems.

I have another issue I'm mulling over now, too. Is the fan control from the computer a progressive two part circuit, to run the primary and secondary fan? Or do they both get the same signal? And is it necessary to let the ecu control the fan. I plan to run a single flexlite type fan, and I think I would prefer to run an independent adjustable thermal on it, if the computer doesn't have any objections.

I was thinking about the stand alone fan system for 2 reasons, the adjustability and I don't know what temp the ecu triggers.

On the oil pan subject again... If I remove the oil pump to get the pick-up tube off, do I need to prime it upon re-install? And should I just replace the oil pump while I'm in there? I would have no problem if I knew more about the history and mileage of this motor, but I worry about changing oil pressure and blowing out seals. Some motor don't like new oil pumps until rebuild time.

The pinto dip stick should sit at the same relative height, to the pan, in either block, as long as it's in the front hole, right? They look like they are about the same height, but I haven't pulled the n/a yet to measure it too.

An update with pics.
Look what I caught!



Cherry picked.




Hole with template. Notice the ugly firewall seam?!



Much more better!!!



Got to cut the fender patch and put a couple folds on it, then run some stitches everywhere, and see what happens. Might redo most of the core support in square tube. Looks like the bottom squished up pretty good. Can't have that. Watch my ocd twitch!

Got the alternator bracket shaved and mocked up.



I got the t5 installed and the clutch cable run. Other than drilling the cross brace for the trans. mount and opening up the shifter hole a skoash, it was an easy fit. I am going to ad some more sheet metal to the back end of the shifter hole, to center it back around the shifter mounting plate.

What's ironic is that the smaller IHI turbo you guys are running has less clearance than the larger T3 that I'm using which has a larger wastegate actuator. The difference is that the T3's WGA is tucked between the turbo and engine.

In fact, I think it would have been unnecessary to cut up the inner fender of my car. Would have saved a lot of work...

Everything on the turbo side is effectively interchangeabl e with the turbo/manifold/intercooler from an SVO (only ever equipped with a T3), so I think any difference in orientation would be from the T3's larger compressor housing.

Stock '87-88 'Birds make full boost by ~2200-2400rpm in higher gears, so I would expect 2400-2800 in a lighter Pinto with shorter tires and/or more gear.

You might be better off using a cable and VSS from another car like an '87-93 Mustang. They used a cable for the speedo and had a separate VSS for the EFI/cruise control that it fit into on the trans end. I just don't know if the speedo end would fit the Pinto cluster nor if the pulses per revolution is the same.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/pyi-speedsensor-8793.html

The type of u-joint for mating different yoke sizes is called a combination u-joint. The most likely one you would need is a 1310/1330 combination and they are widely available from many manufacturers.

I deleted my EGR and can't say I've had any adverse affects from it. That said, I haven't run without it much (my Pinto sees maybe 500 miles a year).  My reason for deleting it was not functionality. It was more so that it freed up a lot of space and aesthetically looked better.  Some have wondered if it would increase combustion chamber temperatures. At least audibly I can't tell that pinging and detonation is present.