Forum > It's all about the Turbo...
Taking the turbo plunge!
76hotrodpinto:
I'm shining up this motor...
And stuffing it in here!
I've done a ton of motor swaps, but this will be the first turbo. The motor has been put in a courier truck, and run, before pulled. Married to a t5. I have questions about some clearances. Will my hood close? How about heater motor and battery? I'm familiar with most trans. issues I will encounter, I think. And of course I will be looking to max out the hp on this setup, but let's get her in there first. How about some often overlooked issues? I understand this is a good motor to learn the art of the turbo, without to much financial hardship. Please and thank you!
dianne:
I think you should rip that turbo stuff off and send it to me so you can have a nice EFI ;-) LOL
Pictures also as you do it!!! :D
76hotrodpinto:
--- Quote from: dianne on January 28, 2015, 07:19:38 AM ---I think you should rip that turbo stuff off and send it to me so you can have a nice EFI ;-) LOL
Pictures also as you do it!!! :D
--- End quote ---
I'm so bad about the picture thing. I'm lucky to get a before and after. I just don't think to stop and take pics. I'll try though. Without the turbo, I wouldn't even want the efi.
Wittsend:
The 74 and up cars, which you obviously have are a lot easier. Rack clearances, motor mounts and radiator size options are not problems you will encounter.
There is the battery tray issue. My 73 was badly rusted so I just put in a new panel that was advantageous to a turbo. Options are the trunk or the drivers front (move the washer tank). Be aware of the alternator or other accessories on that side if you use the battery in the front.
There is a bolt (stud) issue on the outer exhaust where it turns 90 degrees downward. Shorten the stud as much as reasonable and possibly drill a hole to facilitate tightening. From there I used the stock T/C downpipe and had some clearance issues with the frame rail. Slightly flattening the out edge fixed that.
I have the 87-88 intercooler in my '73 and other than the scoop to feed the intercooler the hood closes without issue - BARELY and I do mean BARELY. Your engine has the taller center section of the valve cover and that might raise the air plumbing..
I used the fan motor from an MG (reverse the polarity) and have sufficient exhaust clearance. Some opt for the A/C model that puts the motor in the interior.
The T-5 has clearance issues (if you use the bell crank) with the cable and the crossmember. A small offsetting plate fixes that. The drive shaft is dependent upon the rearend used. I went from a /C-4/6.75" rear to a T-5/ 8" rear and the shaft swapped right over.
Mounting the fuel pump, return lines, harness etc. you just sort as you go.
I did a two part write-up on my '73 wagon swap using a stock '88 T/C engine - T-5. You might glean something from it.
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=11908.msg76893#msg76893 http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=11909.msg76894#msg76894
76hotrodpinto:
--- Quote from: Wittsend on January 28, 2015, 02:53:51 PM ---The 74 and up cars, which you obviously have are a lot easier. Rack clearances, motor mounts and radiator size options are not problems you will encounter.
There is the battery tray issue. My 73 was badly rusted so I just put in a new panel that was advantageous to a turbo. Options are the trunk or the drivers front (move the washer tank). Be aware of the alternator or other accessories on that side if you use the battery in the front.
There is a bolt (stud) issue on the outer exhaust where it turns 90 degrees downward. Shorten the stud as much as reasonable and possibly drill a hole to facilitate tightening. From there I used the stock T/C downpipe and had some clearance issues with the frame rail. Slightly flattening the out edge fixed that.
I have the 87-88 intercooler in my '73 and other than the scoop to feed the intercooler the hood closes without issue - BARELY and I do mean BARELY. Your engine has the taller center section of the valve cover and that might raise the air plumbing..
I used the fan motor from an MG (reverse the polarity) and have sufficient exhaust clearance. Some opt for the A/C model that puts the motor in the interior.
The T-5 has clearance issues (if you use the bell crank) with the cable and the crossmember. A small offsetting plate fixes that. The drive shaft is dependent upon the rearend used. I went from a /C-4/6.75" rear to a T-5/ 8" rear and the shaft swapped right over.
Mounting the fuel pump, return lines, harness etc. you just sort as you go.
I did a two part write-up on my '73 wagon swap using a stock '88 T/C engine - T-5. You might glean something from it.
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=11908.msg76893#msg76893 http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=11909.msg76894#msg76894
--- End quote ---
That's just the type of stuff I'm looking for. Thank you!
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