Forum > It's all about the Turbo...
Taking the turbo plunge!
dianne:
Ummm, so mine is going to have issues?
Wittsend:
Dianne,
Putting a 2.3 (Turbo) in a '71-'73 car is like driving a bus through a narrow ally. The problems that the '71-73 cars have are:
1. The existing motor mounts need to be cut out and the 2.3 mount need to be welded in. The tricky part is the pan clearance at the rack and intake plumbing at the top with the hood (on turbo and I assume NA injected cars). There is about 3/16" clearance at the top and bottom. I have the lowered center section valve cover/intake system and I still filed the top of the throttle body as much as I dare to get the 3/16" clearance. SO..., before the motor mounts get welded in you have to be dead sure about their placement. I had my engine in/out 7 times before I was willing to commit. I see you have a '73 like I have. This car has a one year only steering rack where the pinion housing is rather bulbous. I both hammered the oil pan and filed the pinion housing for clearance (do at your own risk).
2. Ideally you will run a larger than the stock 17" radiator. To get the Pinto 20" radiator to fit you need to widen the opening. There are likely other options, but you should enlarge the opening for full air flow, not just put in a larger radiator with restricted air flow. Related is the fact that the '71-'73 cars have a shorter engine bay and clearance between the water pump nose and the radiator is about 3/8". I opted to run a "pusher" fan from the front.
Otherwise the other alterations mentioned are needed for all Pinto's.
Pintosopher:
--- Quote from: Wittsend on January 29, 2015, 12:54:48 PM ---Dianne,
Putting a 2.3 (Turbo) in a '71-'73 car is like driving a bus through a narrow ally. The problems that the '71-73 cars have are:
1. The existing motor mounts need to be cut out and the 2.3 mount need to be welded in. The tricky part is the pan clearance at the rack and intake plumbing at the top with the hood (on turbo and I assume NA injected cars). There is about 3/16" clearance at the top and bottom. I have the lowered center section valve cover/intake system and I still filed the top of the throttle body as much as I dare to get the 3/16" clearance. SO..., before the motor mounts get welded in you have to be dead sure about their placement. I had my engine in/out 7 times before I was willing to commit. I see you have a '73 like I have. This car has a one year only steering rack where the pinion housing is rather bulbous. I both hammered the oil pan and filed the pinion housing for clearance (do at your own risk).
2. Ideally you will run a larger than the stock 17" radiator. To get the Pinto 20" radiator to fit you need to widen the opening. There are likely other options, but you should enlarge the opening for full air flow, not just put in a larger radiator with restricted air flow. Related is the fact that the '71-'73 cars have a shorter engine bay and clearance between the water pump nose and the radiator is about 3/8". I opted to run a "pusher" fan from the front.
Otherwise the other alterations mentioned are needed for all Pinto's.
--- End quote ---
Hmm, all reasons why I want to stay with a 2.0L EAO or Cossie YBG . I had installed a 4 core radiator, and a Pusher fan in front of the Rad, my competition accused me of turning on the fan to increase my speed and lower my times while racing ;D Never overheated in Sacto Summers at autocross with fixed fan on W/ Pump removed..
If you buy the goodies From Burton in UK, you can install a 2.3L Duratec from a Focus and have easy 150Hp with little mods and great Open hood Penache'
Lots of options, all it takes is money and sweat! 8)
76hotrodpinto:
I guess I can count myself lucky to have the 76. Even though I lust for an early model! On the subject of the t5 install, is the shifter offset consistent enough that someone could have a template or just just a few measurements they can share with me? Or is it a try and see type scenario? And which way is going to be easier, given I don't have spiffy car lift, dropping the motor/tranny married, or individually?
Wittsend:
If a picture is worth a thousand words hopefully this will help. Thought I had a picture of the opening, but I don't. Anyway, the tunnel just needs to be cut forward about 3". The cover I used is from the Turbo Coupe, just hammered to fit. It covered the whole opening.
I shortened the shifter (it is too high) by cutting and welding it and then made the plate to move it rearward (it is too far forward). I'm 6ft. and prefer the seat back and leaned. Getting the shifter right is tricky. The angles need to be just right otherwise the motion becomes awkward. I could still use it back 2"-3" ideally. But, where it is..., is the compromise one must accept. I tried angling it by pivoting on the lower bolt, but that is when the awkwardness started.
It was about 6 years ago and I don't recall the install method. But, I'm not an engine/Trans as one piece kind of guy. So I know it wasn't that. Which went first engine or trans I don't exactly recall. With the tight fitting I'm guessing I put the trans to the (dangling) motor before I welded the motor mount in.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page