Way to go!!!  Congratulation s!


Dwayne

I got my radiator mounts fabbed out.







And got it installed, after finishing core support mods and painting.





Still have the fan and hoses to put in, but it's pretty much done, as far as fabbing stuff goes. Till the next major upheaval... I'm just itching to go drive this thing!

Got some road under her today! It was all worth it. Happiness!

I'll see if I can find someone brave enough to hold a camera, and not grab the dash.

To bad your far away , if you were near I would grab my G suit and helmet and take a test flight ,opps I mean a ride with you 🏁

hope your ejection seat is up and working , just in case 

No ejection seat... per say... How about rusty floor pans?

Yikes!  I'd rather eject out through the top than fall out through the bottom!


Dwayne

I had to fuel up last night, and I just went to the local gas station. It was nice to be able to get fuel so easily, instead of having to head to the race gas station. And still have more hp to get there! I love this little pinto.

Is the +5v TPS power leg supplying a good 5v? Are there any dead spots in the TPS sweep?

There is a KOER "goose test" where you stab the throttle very quickly and the ECU will detect dead spots or a bad signal.

Is there a guide to running codes? A how to for first timers? I haven't found the code list anywhere either, even if I did know how to test it. I know how to hook up either an analog meter or light to the eec test plug, but then...?

The simple method for reading codes can be frustrating. There are initial codes, then the test codes, then closing codes. And they all have to be counted visually with the check engine light or an analog volt meter by counting pulses and pauses. At various times you need to perform functions based on timed intervals (like pushing the accelerator to the floor).  It is a bit like trying to read Morse code but never having done it before.  Some tests are done with the "Key On-Engine Off" and others "Key On-Engine Running."

There are code "readers" but they are not like OBD II. The simplest plugs into the test port and basically flashes a light like the CEL on the dash does and a switch to trigger the test. They also have a buzzer if you are more audibly inclined. You still have to do the interrupting of the pulses and pauses so it is not much of a help. These are in the $10 range on Ebay.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/equ-3143

  There is a somewhat more expensive type that as far as I can tell does the counting for you and displays a code number. I actually have one, but have never used it. These are in the $30 range.  UPDATE: I just tested mine. It sure takes the "Mystery" out of counting light flashes and pause counts. It does display an actual number! This comes with a book that delves into the deeper side of OBD I too.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ino-3145
 Ford also had a dealer style Rotunda reader and I think it piggybacked on the ECU. These are not cheap and if I recall correctly when you find one (the right one) are easily in the $500+ range.

Lastly be very weary of any reader that "says" it is OBD I and has even a hint of being an OBD II reader.  From what I saw these would never work. Innova and Equus are the only two "real" OBD I (Ford) readers I am aware of.

You will have had to retain or reinstall the test port from the ECU. It is a somewhat triangular connector with a single wire connector associated with it.  There is all kinds of stuff on the internet about OBD I (Ford) but you might try The Ranger Station http://www.therangerstation.com/ or NATO http://www.turbotbird.com/ as they deal with swap issues. Be careful too because I have seen where not every OBD I (Ford) code number is the same for each engine. Be sure the codes are specific to your engine/year.

Your welcome.  I ran my test wires into the car - as opposed to the stock under the hood location. It makes it easier to to do the testing from the drivers seat. When done I coil the wires up into the glove box. After now having tried my Innova 3145 I'd highly recommend it over the cheaper 3143 or just using the CEL. Having a numerical readout is so nice and assures the code is correct.

BTW, the ECU can do cylinder balance tests (shuts each cylinder off momentarily and measures RPM drop) amongst other mostly unknown things that can be tested. Don't be surprised that you get codes because the ECU tests A/C, power steering, EGR etc. So, in our Turbo Pinto application I'd assume a CEL would be on all the time for those.

BTW, the ECU can do cylinder balance tests (shuts each cylinder off momentarily and measures RPM drop) amongst other mostly unknown things that can be tested. Don't be surprised that you get codes because the ECU tests A/C, power steering, EGR etc. So, in our Turbo Pinto application I'd assume a CEL would be on all the time for those.

Unfortunately the cylinder balance test only applies to engines that had sequential EFI of which the 2.3T wasn't one.

Here's how to do the test light code reading method:
www.troublecodes.net/ford/

It may have been testing the EGR valve or idle air controller.

The TFI commands a spark even if the computer signal is lost entirely. It functions as a fail-safe so the car won't stop running in the middle of a freeway lane or railroad tracks or some other dangerous place. Since the injectors are paired, the ECU can't drop a single cylinder by cutting fuel either.

OEMs also go to great lengths to avoid controlling the engine in any way with spark only because dumping fuel and air into the exhaust will nuke a catalytic converter.

Anybody running, or have run a manual boost control valve? How do, did you like it? Is it consistent in it's control? Does it create other issues?