PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => It's all about the Turbo... => Topic started by: don33 on June 11, 2011, 04:35:42 PM
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Well, I figured I may as well start my own project thread.
I do this with the Idea that it may be of some help to someone who is considering traveling down a similar path, here we go. here she is as I brought her home. has a 2.3 with a C4. plans are, a built 2.3 Turbo and built C4. am going to do a explorer 8.8 rear axle swap and aerostar aluminum drive shaft.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/1980Pinto001.jpg)
Since bringing her home I have pulled the engine and trans. pulled everything out of the interior. now I am going through it to remove everything that isn't needed (weight reduction). I have gutted the bumpers, removed all sound deadening and every nut and bolt that isn't needed. the interior will go back in when everything else is done, subframe connectors etc. will update as things happen or questions arise.
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I was looking at the heavy steel bumper mount/shocks on the front and rear. I want to fab up some aluminum brackets to replace these heavy steel units. it doesn't look to be to difficult. doing this would accomplish two things, lighter weight, and to move the bumper in closer to the body. has anybody else fabed there own mounts ? have any pics ?
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Well, I fabed up front bumper mounts today, the old shock bumper mounts weight was 14 lbs. the new mounts weigh 2.4 lbs that's a difference of 11.60 lbs . they also move the front bumper in to the body about 2+" . I also drilled and collapsed the rear bumper mounts 2.5" . I may at some point fab up some light aluminum mounts for the rear but not today. anyway, the pinto is now 4.5" shorter and almost 12 lbs lighter, that's not counting all the other weight reduction that has been accomplished.
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I want to do a 5 lug conversion on the front of the car so it will match the 5 lug rear that will be going in. I've seen different kits on E Bay and Speedway motors ranging from a simple 5lug rotor replacement to a full blown replace everything kit. The price ranges all the way from $60.00 or so for a 5lug rotor to $700.00 for some full blown kits. exactly what do I need ? If I can just swap out rotors that would be great... whats the deal ?
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Speedway makes a replacement rotor thats the same as stock but 5 lug thats the easiest. But if you want better brakes you can upgrade them from 9 inch discs to 11 inch disc buy using a Granada rotor, speedway adapter bracket/GM metric caliper which are larger and work better.
But thats all up to you and wether or not you think the stock size brakes are up to snuff for your project. On mine personally I want the largest brakes i can get front and rear Ive even thought about doing the cobra brake swap.
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I think I would be better off with the larger brakes. So, are these the only parts I need to get ? do I just buy the rotor or the hub and rotor ?
you can upgrade them from 9 inch discs to 11 inch disc buy using a Granada rotor, speedway adapter bracket/GM metric caliper which are larger and work better
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http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Complete-11-Inch-Brake-Kit-Ford-Bolt-Pattern,2008.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Complete-11-Inch-Brake-Kit-Ford-Bolt-Pattern,2008.html)
Thats everything needed to do the swap to the 11 inch granada rotors.
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Awesome, the rotors on the explorer rear are 11 - 1/4. pretty good match. I'll be ordering that kit soon. Thanks.
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well I pretty much have everything stripped out that's going to be. old shocks are gone will be replaced by performance shocks. I haven't decided yet weather I am going to cut out the trunk floor and refab it. that will depend on the rear shocks used and I will be repositioning the rear shock mounting points. Also the battery and a fuel cell are going into the trunk. and that's pretty much where I'm at as of now...
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I know there are a lot of you guys that have cut out the trunk floor to install a fuel cell. Anybody have any pics of there install ? Tips, helpful hints , etc.
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The trunk floor is gone. I'll be going to find some square steel tubing to frame up a well for the fuel cell, then tie it all into the pinto rear frame. when that's done it will be covered with thin sheet of sheet metal and all welded together with an access door/panel to access the cell. I'm going with a cell design that is 7.5 inches deep so it can be flush with the new trunk floor and not hang down much further than the stock tank. I think I will take pics since no one has answered the call and I cannot find pics of anybody else that has done this.
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dont know how much this will help but you can look through my albumn....
http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa113/blacksheep1703/my%2075%20turbopinto/?start=60
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Hey don33, if you're interested I have a NOS (1971) TransGo C4 shift kit and a new WIX trans filter that would help you with your C4 build. New ones are going on ebay starting at around $48.
My kit is not just springs it has everything from the gasket to the shift module with complete instructions for the build included. Will add a pic this weekend of all the internal components.
I'll let both the kit and filter go for $50 plus shipping if interested.
pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruceflinn/sets/72157626843265609/
- Bruce
PS. any ideas on whether or not you want the sport mirror from the '74?
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thanks for the picks Pinturbo75, yep, your treatment of the fuelcell install is very similar to what I have planned.
baflinn, I allready have my C4 built but thanks for the offer.... and I am holding out for a matched set on the mirrors. but you never know, so if I end up needing yours I will let you know, thanks.
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sounds like a fun project! Damn I really want to go to a 5 lug pattern now seeing how big of brakes I can get. Oh well I'll see what I can do for a bigger rotor with the 4 lug pattern.
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yeah you can get some nice brakes if you are so inclined. but it really opens up the world of wheels...... I'll be using this kit from speedway motors on the front
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Complete-11-Inch-Brake-Kit-Ford-Bolt-Pattern,2008.html
and the stock explorer brakes on the rear, 11.25 rotors. I think I'll be able to get her stopped.
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Got the trunk floor removed... ready to buy some steel and do some framing.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/1980%20ford%20pinto%20build/DSC00492.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/1980%20ford%20pinto%20build/DSC00497.jpg)
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:tgif:
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parts are starting to trickle in. the speedway 5 lug rotor kit has arrived. and yesterday I picked up a 97 ford aerostar aluminum driveshaft. the stock steel driveshaft is 46", the aerostar aluminum is 45.5" the difference in weight is significant. just for kicks I thought I would insert the aerostar shaft into the tailshaft of the C4 trans. it slid right in. how awesome is that !
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00498.jpg)
you can see the yoak inserted into the C4 tailshaft in the pic. also I got he flange attached to the rear of the driveshaft. with any luck at all, it will bolt right to the 8.8 rear... today the ups guy brought me the all steel universal joint from speedway motors to replace the rag joint on the steering shaft. I feel like its christmass...
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Congrats on the "bolt on" drive shaft! I may go this route with Brownie (my 73 with C4 trans and 6.75" rear), instead of having the steel one rebalanced. That is, if it's cheaper. Heck, if not, I could get the aluminum one for my 78 like I have been planning, and the swap them out since I know the 78's is balanced perfectly!
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Hey Don what year of aerostar did you get this drive shaft out of im thinking i need one....Thanks
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1997, but there are several years that are the same. I think it is 96 and up. its the rear driveshaft on the 4X4 model... after some quick research I have found that the 96/97 is the ones that have the C4/T5 compatable yoak.. although the newer years may be the same. there may be more but those two for sure... it will be 45.5 center to center on the drive shaft u joints. and make sure the ends are welded on not crimped on. I believe it was only the early shafts that were crimped 95 and earlier. and one last note, you may or may not need a different rear u-joint.
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Me and my dad pulled a shaft from a 2wd Aerostar but it was to long, 57 1/4". I will be going back to have it swapped out though.
At O'Reilly AutoParts I found the necessary U-Joints to use with this axle. they are PRE 353. It is a crossover u-joint so it is longer one way than the other.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/353.oap?keyword=353
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good info on the u-joint dave. I assume that joint is to mate up with an 8" ? and Dave, didn't I tell you to get the rear shaft out of a 4X4 model 8)...
1997, but there are several years that are the same. I think it is 96 and up. its the rear driveshaft on the 4X4 model... after some quick research I have found that the 96/97 is the ones that have the C4/T5 compatable yoak.. although the newer years may be the same. there may be more but those two for sure... it will be 45.5 center to center on the drive shaft u joints. and make sure the ends are welded on not crimped on. I believe it was only the early shafts that were crimped 95 and earlier. and one last note, you may or may not need a different rear u-joint.
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well, havent done a lot for a while, but yesterday I got motivated and pulled out the new welder and this is what happened...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbopintoproject.jpg)
framed up the rear, fuel cell will mount in the center, with the battery going on the right and the the nos bottle on the left. havent decided how low to mount the fuel cell yet. the fuel cell is 8" tall and I would like to mount it with the top flush with the trunk floor. opinions/examples ? forget those examples, got er done...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject003.jpg)
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heres another pic of the fuel cell taken from the inside of the car looking into the trunk.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject005.jpg)
here is looking from the rear of the car showing all that is seen of the fuel cell is the sump.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject004-1.jpg)
and here are two pics showing the front and rear bumpers after sucking them closer into the body.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject001-1.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject006.jpg)
and last but not least, threw the old rag joint away and replaced it with this forged steel u joint from speedway motors
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject002-1.jpg)
Next on the agenda, subframe connectors...!
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I'm curious as to how nice the steering is with the steel U-Joint. I was thinking of putting one on my 78 Sedan, it still has the rag joint on it (replaced with a rubber HELP unit).
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How many gallon fuel cell is that? Also where did you buy it from?
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Dave, I love the feel of a steel u joint. if you move the wheel a little you get the same movement in the tires. there is no slop, no play. you get a much better feel of the road and to me that = quicker response and better control. some may not like that, some will like the soft mushy feel of a rag joint. but if you are performance oriented, it is the only way to go.
Timmay.... that is an 8 gallon fuel cell, and I purchased it from Speedway Motors. and it is a perfect fit.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Jaz-Bottom-Sump-Fuel-Cell-8-Gallon,443.html
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well, I started on the subframe connectors today. heres my progress on the drivers side. hope to get most of it done today.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject002-2.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject001-2.jpg)
finished up the drivers side, will get to the passenger side on wendsday...
ahhh, got it done. just a little clean up and tie the subframes into the front leaf spring perches and thats that.
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a little more progress. completed the rear mount battery well this morning...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject-1.jpg)
cut out some sheetmetal in the area where the turbo will go to provide more clearence, will shape a piece of metal and weld it into the hole. even accomplished a little more weight reduction.
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That is some sweet work you do. She will be nice. I would like to know the weight before and after you have finished the mods. I am looking at going InSaNe on the 76 in a couple of months.
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Thanks, the weight before was 2377 according to the specs chart. Its the Pinto Pony model, lightest car for 1980. I didnt weigh it myself. wish I had. but my goal when finished is 2250. I have taken a lot of weight out of the car and this weight has come from all over the car, front to rear. I have also added weight to the car, this has been in the form of the fuel cell/battery mounting structure and subframe connectors. the positive side of this is 90% of the added weight has been in the back half of the car. also, the battery has been relocated to the rear. I like to think of that as traction enhancement. anyway, I keep looking for little pieces here and there that can be cut out without affecting structural integrity. when its all said and done 2250 lbs is the target. If I can get under that, that will be great.....
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shot of the right side inner fender, where the battery used to reside. modded for extra turbo clearence. not quite done yet, got a few small holes to fill in. welding that thin stuff is a pain...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject002-3.jpg)
well I did get this done. got it all welded up tight. ground down all the welds to smooth it out. turned out pretty good. I'll get some rust resistant primer and give it a coat... I'll take a pic when I'm done.
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and there it is.....
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/turbo%20pinto%20project/turbopintoproject-2.jpg)
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Looking at 6/8 point roll bar kits, anybody have experience with what you think is the one to get ?
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I depend are what time class you are going to run and what is required by the track you will run at...An 8 point should be a good choice....I do not think the price differs much...This is the one thing should not be done on the cheap.....
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Competition Engineering has a really nice kit. You can start with a 8 point and work your way up from there. http://www.competitionengineering.com/default.asp
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yep, was aware of that one, just wondering what else was out there. its a pretty good deal, chromoly would be nice due the the thinner material (weight) but probably more expensive.
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yep, was aware of that one, just wondering what else was out there. its a pretty good deal, chromoly would be nice due the the thinner material (weight) but probably more expensive.
Chromoly is gonna cost ALOT more and also has to be Tig welded. Yeah the weights nice but unless your building an all out racer for the 8 second or less class I wouldn't worry about it.
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Well folks, life kind of got in the way and I was forced to put the project on the back burner for a while, but I am now happy to report that we are back in action. pics to follow...!
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Test fitting the large Isuzu NPR intercooler, yes, it did require some sheet metal surgery, but I think it now fits like factory.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00766.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/DSC00766.jpg.html)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00765.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/DSC00765.jpg.html)
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Do you have a part # for this "large NPR"? Also, can you post a pic of the rad support without the IC installed? I'd like to see the "surgery" you performed. Thanks!
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I don't have a part number, bought it used off Ebay. as far as the surgery goes, I had to make a decision, big NPR as far forward as possible = no hood latch, hood pin car. I'm sure it is possible to keep the latch and use the NPR, people on here have done it, with enough time and patience. I don't mind it being a hood pin car, my car is not a restoration, its a hot rod. by the way, a Isuzu NPR is a small cab over diesel box truck. so, if you have any local truck wrecking yards around you might find one there.
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I actually believe I found the part #...Google Image search along with eBay helped!
8972183941 & 8972183942 seem to look identical to the large NPR intercooler you have installed.
As for the sheet metal cutting, I would like to keep the hood latch, since ultimately I see my turbo Pinto looking as stock as possible, but I may end up making a concession here or there...I'm also considering a turbo Mustang hood scoop (carbureted), so who knows.
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as far as the NPR intercooler goes, there is a large and a small. the small is just shorter top to bottom. less cooling effect, I want as much cooling as I can get. what makes the NPR desirable is the configuration of the inlet and outlet, this combined with a 90* rotated upper intake makes for a very clean minimal plumbing setup. funny you should mention the turbo mustang hood scoop, I have one off a 2.3 turbo mustang. just waiting to go on my hood...! I be fitting that up soon.
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fitting up the ford explorer rad...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00769.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/DSC00769.jpg.html)
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just a quick question, I see you are using a explorer radiator and installing a 2.3t correct??? if so the inlet and outlets for the radiator are on the wrong sides no??? if you where running a 2.8 that radiator would be great!!
just my 2 cents!
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actually no, it works just great on the 2.3...! in fact I just pulled it out of a 2.3 setup, and I had another set up the same way in a thunderbird so, not to sure what your 2 cents is all about, others have done it the same way. but stay tuned and you will see...
another of the explorer rad fitment...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00770.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/DSC00770.jpg.html)
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What year explorer radiator r u using!?!! Thanks!
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don't remember exactly, think it's in the 94 - 97 range.
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Eric's right. 2.3 Lima & German 2.0 engines have drivers side top & passenger side lower hose locations. It doesn't mean you cant run it however stock Pinto hoses won't fit.
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I'm sure he is. however, I am not using stock Pinto hoses. I am using a stock thunderbird turbo coupe hoses. the lower rad hose crosses from the drivers side (right behind the lower rad support) to the passenger side. the upper is the same story, it goes where it needs to. trim as needed. It's what hot rodding is all about, have a vision of what you want to do and then make it work...!
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That's good to know for future reference. I never noticed Turbo Coupes crossed sides.
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getting ready to install the the new 5 lug front suspension...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00772.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/DSC00772.jpg.html)
right side all assembled and ready to go on...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00773.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/DSC00773.jpg.html)
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and there it is, Speedway Motors 5 lug conversion installed...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00774.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/DSC00774.jpg.html)
Well I finished up both sides, I'm impressed...! but now I don't have any 15" 5 lug wheels. what the heck am I going to do now...?
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Looks good.
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I went back and read some of your earlier posts - I am also interested in using a forged steel u-joint instead of the rubber rag joint. Do you happen to remember what size it is, or what the part number was?
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Ordered from speedway motors.....
91032237 U-JOINT, 9/16"-26 WELD-ON $49.99
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Thanks!!
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Next on the agenda is obtaining a Ford Explorer complete rear axle assy...
Well, just got back from the wrecking yard and here it is, a complete 1998 ford explorer rear axle assy. cost me $245.00 , that's an awesome deal. you get 5 lug 11.25" disc, 31 spline heavy duty axles, a trac lock 8.8 diff and 373 gears. try rebuilding your 8 inch with the above features for that price...
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/DSC00775.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/DSC00775.jpg.html)
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just thought this pic might be of interest to anyone who is considering the explorer axle swap... in the pic is a 1998 ford explorer rear, the drive shaft is a 1997 areostar aluminum drive shaft, the transmission is a ford C4. what's cool about this you ask ? they all fit together, no mods required.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/don33/8fa34be9-425a-42bf-92a2-7a78ee097406.jpg) (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/don33/media/8fa34be9-425a-42bf-92a2-7a78ee097406.jpg.html)
as soon as I get the axle housing narrowed, I can start assembling the car.
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I got the rear axle housing all disassembled, now I just need to drill out the plugs that hold the tube in the center section. pull the tube out. using the one cut method, cut 2 15/16 off the end of the tube and insert tube back into center section. weld everything in place and reassemble with two short side axles. let me tell you, those are some beefy axles. this thing will be very durable.
a little progress, I went back to the wrecking yard where I bought the housing from and traded them my long side axle for another short side axle, no cash involved, small victory...
Yesterday I got the 3 plugs that secure the axle tube into the center section drilled out, tomorrow I'm taking it down to the shop where I work to see if We can get the tube extracted from the center section .... stay tuned.
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I don't have a pinto but our setup will be more similar than not, I have a 1975 mustang II i was wondering what master cylinder you are considering to go with those gm calipers and the explorer discs, is your set up manual brakes? or power ? mine is manual at the moment this is the reason i have been on the hunt for a ranger 8.8 with drum brake (no need to change masters with that set up
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Love the build! I have a '77 hatch. Plan on about the same setup as yours. Couple of questions.
1) Did you get the upper control arm from Speedway as well?
2) Are you running power brakes for the conversion? Can I keep my manual brake booster doing the swap?
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yes I did get the upper control arms from
speedway. and yes I am running manual brakes. everything has been on hold for a while hope to get back at it soon...
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Keep us updated. I'm in the process of doing almost the same swap.
I put the Explorer rear axle in as-is. Had to cut off the bracket from the diff for the 3rd shock on the Explorer and beat the floor under the back seat with a hammer quite a bit. I may need to cut a little padding out of the right side seat base. I also have to cut some metal out at the end of the trans tunnel and build it up to clear the speed sensor and cast tabs that protect it. There's just enough room under the seatback to get the clearance while not modding the seat. If you center the pinion, the speed sensor will not clear in a Pinto without serious modifications that would get in the way of the back seat. And I like the extra width from it, pushes the wheels out to fill the fenders better and allows the use of higher offset wheels.
I also have an Aerostar driveshaft to go along with my T5. Can't beat $80 for a good condition aluminum shaft.
The NPR intercooler looks like it fits perfectly. I would go that route if I didn't already get a free Greddy front mount.
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Ok, I'm just about to get back into the build if it would just stop snowing...! I'm hoping to get the rear axle cut and welded this coming week. Yeah, the large NPR is a pretty good Fit. I wont have any problem filling the wheel wells, just get wider wheels and tires...
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Most of the wheels that are easily available are higher offset and have been for the past couple decades. I'm just leaving my axle alone so I can fit them without spacers and even if I wanted to shorten it, I don't have the tools to do so and there's nobody local who can do it.
The axle barely fit at stock width. If I clearance a few spots of the car and cut the bump stops, I'll be able to get about 1.5" of travel with the lower Landrum leaf springs I bought. The tabs that protect the speed sensor and the sensor itself stick out too much (my car is resting on them right now!), but they're centered and I'm going to cut the floor out at the back of the trans tunnel under the seat and rebuild it to clear. I'm using the electronic speed sensor. With one side shortened, this would be off-center and even harder to make fit. But if you're cutting it off and plugging the hole, that's less of an issue. It's still going to be tight though.
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Well I'm glad to report the snow is gone it's warming up and I am back at it. well, got my 8.8 explorer axle cut and welded. ordered some nice new spring perches from Summit Racing, perfectly sized for the 3.25" explorer axle housing. check it out.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00858_zps7b83f3a9.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00858_zps7b83f3a9.jpg.html)
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Got some major progress done today, my narrowed explorer rear is in...
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00890_zpsde91abb5.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00890_zpsde91abb5.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00891_zps54b0b228.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00891_zps54b0b228.jpg.html)
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How'd you go about cutting it? Just a warning, the speed sensor and protecting tabs will NOT clear the floor. You can either remove them or cut the floor. Also the diff cover may hit the gas tank strap mounts, I cut some metal out of mine for clearance.
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had a fab shop cut and weld it back together, they had the means to ensure it was straight. I have a fuel cell in mine so no worries on the diff cover hitting that. also since my rear has been narrowed, it is perfectly centered. At this time I don't believe the tabs on the rear will hit the floor. we shall see. not a big deal, nothing a sheet metal modification tool (hammer) cant handle, and if I need to cut a little, cut and weld. anyway the big news of the day is, I got my shock mounts all welded in and shocks are mounted. the shocks I used are Strange 10 way adjustable intended for a Fox body mustang. check it out.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00894_zps505e1748.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00894_zps505e1748.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00893_zps936becf1.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00893_zps936becf1.jpg.html)
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You might have to actually cut like I did. Yours is probably 2" off from where mine is. I was right at the reinforced area for the bump stop in the center. It was 2 layers, one was 3/16" thick. I'm going to have to fab up a patch soon. My car was resting on the speed sensor tabs with the lower Landrum 125 springs I put in. I would've hit them during normal suspension travel on stock springs. I'm only going to have about 1.5" of suspension travel on my car.
I want to add a fuel cell and a better rear subframe like that next year. Yours is looking nice. I'm going to just do subframe connectors for now. Any photos of how the front of that tubular section connects to the chassis?
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Start on page 1 it's pretty much all there.
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I didn't see any photos of how you connected the subframe connectors in the rear. Just curious, I think I already know how I'm going to be attaching mine.
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oh ok, yeah, haven't done that yet, still have to figure that out... how are you thinking of doing that ?
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I was just going to attach them to the front leaf mount with a piece of box tubing on either side. Then someday build a new subframe inboard of the stock one
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I've got an idea that I'm going with, pics will follow...
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ok, got a little work done over the weekend. first I cut a piece of 1/16 plate and welded it in on top where the subframe connector goes through the body sheet metal.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00897_zpsb76baf54.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00897_zpsb76baf54.jpg.html)
not quite done yet, but then on the bottom I welded some 1/8 plate to tie together the end of the subframe, body sheet metal and the front spring mounting point. this should tie everything together to give the added strength and rigidity needed to handle the expected increase in HP.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00898_zpsfc1eabe9.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00898_zpsfc1eabe9.jpg.html)
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The way that's attached underneath doesn't look very structural and the end of the tubing is open. Might want to seal that and not leave places for dirt and moisture to get trapped.
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yep, not done welding yet, when its done it will all be sealed up and a couple of braces added, still a work in progress.
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got the 1X2 tubing welded into the end of the subframe and angled up the the plate on the floor. triangulated, its strong now. still some sealing up to do but its almost there.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00899_zps0c23086c.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00899_zps0c23086c.jpg.html)
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Looking good. I was talking about how the tube didn't appear capped and it looked like it wasn't possible to do so after the metal you added. I really want to make a new rear subframe later so I'm going to have to leave room for that. I want box tubing all the way back and I want to add a hitch receiver and fuel cell. That'll have to wait a while though.
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Ok one more pic on subframes, looking forward, this pic is of where the subframe connector enters the existing front subframe. I placed a piece of 1/16 plate at the intersection of where all the frames and braces come together and welded everything together. a couple more beads and done... she should be pretty solid now.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00902_zps8865f8b2.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00902_zps8865f8b2.jpg.html)
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now that all the work under the car is done, I wanted to get everything mocked up today. mainly wanted to see everything fit. well it all went well until I tried to put the hood on. it wasn't happening. it looks like my Pinto will be sporting a cowl induction hood scoop. so much for the sleeper look...
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00904_zps8d872a79.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00904_zps8d872a79.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00903_zps231d8a0b.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00903_zps231d8a0b.jpg.html)
I'll be selling the upper intake and replacing it with a low profile model... I think I can get away with a 2.5 or 3 inch cowl induction hood scoop.
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Try a 1983 Mustang GT. hood scoop , that's what I'm going with. Remember it goes on backwards...Gr ill toward the driver...Not towards the front. I just hope the guy you buy one from packs it better...Can you say crack.....Oh well it's going to be repaired...
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I got the low profile upper intake yesterday and did a quick fitment check, much better, yes, but I'm still going to need a hood scoop.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00906_zps119c274c.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00906_zps119c274c.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00907_zps4dbfc67b.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00907_zps4dbfc67b.jpg.html)
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after installing a new mustang II poly transmission mount and getting everything settled as it is going to be, I got everything mocked back up. cut the hood, measured and it looks like I can use a early rear facing Mustang turbo GT hood scoop. things are looking up. here's the pic.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00911_zps80031f7f.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00911_zps80031f7f.jpg.html)
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Big turbo on a top mount?
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Damn that intake sits up high. What's the lower? My 85 Merkur one sits lower from memory, I need to double check. From when I measured before putting the motor in, I thought my rotated one was going to be an inch or two tall
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Yep, its the Esslinger SVO aluminum head with the Esslinger carb intake manifold modified for EFI. the current Turbo is a Holset HX35 mounted on a twin scroll header. I will probably end up using a 84 + - rear facing turbo GT hood scoop. but that is still up in the air as I will be getting a bigger Turbo.
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a small bit of progress..... modified the trans crossmember to accept a poly trans mount intended for a mustang II. stock mount on the left.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00910_zpse61e3a0f.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00910_zpse61e3a0f.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00913_zps1b4012ce.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00913_zps1b4012ce.jpg.html)
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more progress, got the brake system all plumbed up.... slow but sure its coming along. next, fuel system plumbing...
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did a half fill with hard block today, maybe closer to 2/3 fill. anyway, got it done. letting it set up before taking it back down to the machine shop...
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Good to see yours coming along. I'm in a similar spot. I need to make a trans crossmember (did something different with the trans) and then once I finish welding the subframe connectors (like 80% done) I need to do fuel lines and brake lines.
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getting started on the fuel system ... two Walbro 255's and -8 tubing and fittings all the way.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00933_zpsfef9fb2d.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00933_zpsfef9fb2d.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00932_zpse3a63c15.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00932_zpse3a63c15.jpg.html)
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A 900-1,000hp-capable fuel system suggests you might be planning to go pretty fast. :o
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Well, maybe not quite that fast, but fast.... ;D
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Definitely looks a bit overkill, wouldn't one be more than enough? I really like how you're laying everything out. I just came up with a similar idea for my fuel system the other day when I stumbled on a piece of aluminum angle I had kicking around.
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Even if you do not use the extra flow, having a installed back up could be useful. I have been stranded twice with a dead fuel pump. Each time they died without warning. Just wire it so the second pump does not run until needed/wanted. Nice project.
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Making more progress, Y block, Summit 10 micron fuel filter, fuel system done all the way up to the firewall, intake manifold and fuel rail drilled and mocked up.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00937_zpsfcaf1964.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00937_zpsfcaf1964.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00938_zps0bd69920.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00938_zps0bd69920.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00936_zps1e30072a.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00936_zps1e30072a.jpg.html)
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I installed new front shocks today. I used the Competition Engineering adjustable shocks meant for a Vega. the reason for this is that the Vega shocks have more travel than the pinto shocks. under hard drag strip launches this allows the pinto suspension to fully extend, 1.5" more than the pinto shocks will allow. better weight transfer, better traction. I had to mod the lower shock mount, and drill new mounting holes in the lower control arm. its a pretty easy mod and well worth the effort...
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00939_zpsa4c6f679.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00939_zpsa4c6f679.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00940_zps405f21b1.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00940_zps405f21b1.jpg.html)
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well the day has arrived, here it is. just got my short block back from the machine shop. 2542 cc's of pure bliss. 3/4 filled block, studs and straps on the mains, and piston squirters fitted into the main oil galley. 2.5 crank, bored .030 over, 5.5 Crower sportsman rods and JE turbo pistons with the Esslinger dish. love those pistons with the Esslinger dish.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00941_zps46fd2b75.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00941_zps46fd2b75.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00942_zps4428c3a9.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00942_zps4428c3a9.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00943_zpse86a5949.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00943_zpse86a5949.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00945_zps429cbca5.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00945_zps429cbca5.jpg.html)
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Wow! :o 8)
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IS THIS A STREET STRIP CAR OR JUST STRIP?
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NICE!!.. 8)
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its a street / strip car, maybe leaning towards the strip but definitely streetable...
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haven't got to work on the car for a while, plus I have relocated from Alaska to the Phoenix, AZ. area. in doing so I have suffered a setback of sorts. I had to leave the pinto behind. I brought all the drivetrain and go fast parts with me so the car will be reborn here in Arizona. so, with that being said, I am in the market for another pinto. I would like a 72-73 or a 79-80. I will consider any year but prefer the years listed. so if anyone knows of one let me know. thanks...
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hello all you turbo pinto peeps...., well the pinto project is back on track. reborn as a 1971 trunk model. a lot of the parts that were in the 80 are going into the 71. so here we go.
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making up for lost time.
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00996_zpscoeqguce.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00996_zpscoeqguce.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00994_zps6deua4i2.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00994_zps6deua4i2.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00991_zps2w8bwkq5.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00991_zps2w8bwkq5.jpg.html)
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag174/don3310/DSC00988_zpsgbyjkoxi.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/don3310/media/DSC00988_zpsgbyjkoxi.jpg.html)
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getting all the pieces of the puzzle together.
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Dibs on being the fly on the wall to see some very unhappy V-8 guys and Hondas cry after you dish out some cold karma 😺
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If you didn't already mention plans for a bigger turbo, I'd be suggesting it now....things are usually getting pretty serious when an HX-35 won't do. 8) For the power level, something with a T4 flange might be necessary.