Forum > It's all about the Turbo...
Merkur harness works with which engines?
Pinto5.0:
--- Quote from: Mike Modified on December 06, 2012, 08:57:09 AM ---
Did you find this site? http://oldfuelinjection.com/ It was originally fordfuelinject ion . com, but Ford objected and the site name was changed.
Lots of good info there.
Mike
--- End quote ---
Looks like a lot of info that should help. I really need to learn everything I can.
OhSix9:
You really only need a few sensors to make this all work. Note the ECT sensor. there are two available aftermarket. one has a plastic tip covering the sensor and the other is brass... take the brass only, accept no substitutes. ( 99 percent of the time if your turbo car is running like crap at random this is the culprit) and it is not a cheap or easy sensor to be replacing. this sensor is located between 2 and 3 on the lower intake and is different from the temp sensor that runs the gauge. Dont bother with the boost control solenoid as it is junk anyways and i will forward you info on making your own manual boost controller that will let you crank er up to where you want if ya like. there are a few other items you can skip too, like the overboost buzzer and the knock sensor. (you will be disconnecting it anyways to get more power) you will need a distributor. go reman. it will come with a new tfi and the shaft bushings will be tight. you will need to adapt the tps from the stock tb to whichever one you go with. also ensure if you buy new they give you a bap sensor not a map sensor. they appear identical except the bap has a little filter thingy on the port opening where the map has a port to plumb it to the intake.
spend the dime and get the head magnafluxed. early heads (even up to the 86) are notorious for cracking in the chambers between the valves. 87-88 motors have hardened seats and are not nearly as crack prone. if you are doing a motor build anyways go down to the local boneyard and scoop a ranger cam and roller followers. more jam and less chance of scrubbing a lobe (common on non roller flat tappets.) if it isn't cracked pay the piper and get hardened seats installed. if it is cracked find an 87-88 head. not a service part as they are different and junk. you ma have to go in for a couple extra bucks to put in dished forged slugs if this is the case. ( or run 100low lead if it is not a daily.)
make sure you get the right pcv valve. available only from ford. all the generic ones listed are wrong and they typically leak under boost. allowing the crankcase to see pressure = bad
Now on the making power front. If you have the bucks send your head to the guys at boport for the baddest porting job on the planet
I'm pretty decent with the eecIV and happy to answer questions or help out. just post or pm me
read everything you can here http://www.rothfam.com/svo/index.asp and check ou t the reference documents link. he has several evtm (electrical vacum troubleshootin g manuals) covering different years and many other goodies once you start to grasp the internal operation of the voodoo box. oldfuelinjecti on will cover the basics for sure
piecing one together is not always easy.... Good luck.
OhSix'
Pinto5.0:
Thanks OhSix9, I'm leaning towards picking up a worn out or locked up '87 or '88 TC engine if I can find one because I have no clue about sensor locations. I can use the worn out engine as a base for future upgrades once I get a grip on the basics.
I was thinking of installing larger valves in my head anyhow so the magnafluxing & hardened seats will be part of that. That oval port head of mine looks to have massive intake ports already so I may just clean & smooth them & the chambers up with cartridge rolls. Boost overcomes minor flaws on the intake side anyhow.
The exhaust side looks like it could use some hogging out but I seem to remenber reading somewhere that huge exhaust ports actually slow velocity & increase lag at low RPM's. I know they help on a race engine at higher boost levels but this will be a daily driver which is why I'm trying to keep it simple & set a max goal of 300 HP. If I come in around 250 right outta the box I'll be happy for awhile.
OhSix9:
Honestly if the longblock is solid I wouldn't bother. you already have the key part in the harness and all the sensor locations are either on the intake manifold, distributor or just on the firewall with one plug for the 02 sensor that is on the turbo. for what you want to make powerwise just get a cheap p series ecu. buy a j3 and ill flash the pe bin to it and mail it back if you want. this will give you big vam, intercooler and big injectors with no wiring modifications. for the most part rob a 2.3L na mustang for the whole intake as it will have most of the sensors you need, fuel rail all the bits.tb tps iac it is all self contained and there is nothing on the head or block. Really the 88 will be more pita than help unless you feel confident clipping wires at the ecu plug and back stripping the harness. For what you are thinking on the hard parts side. yup go to town. but if you where gonna big valve the head and spend some real coin just ship it to boport.. doesn't matter how good the local guy is.this is THE place to get a proper 2.3 head. Turbo sizing is far more important than exhaust port oversizing with regards to lag and spool. To make 300 the factory ihi is a waste of time and money too. so for the cash you would spend on an 88 you get the ecu and a used big vam with 35# injectors that probably need cleaning anyways.
Pinto5.0:
I have a local guy that has pretty much everything out of an '83 Turbo T-bird that can be had cheap. How much of it will I be able to use or is the non-intercooled stuff a waste of money?
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