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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

stupid choke and carb questions

Started by jimdaug, February 29, 2008, 02:30:34 AM

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jimdaug

OK, so time for an update I think.  The Holley 45-28 didn't fit. Too big.

If you didn't know, the weather in Texas has been hot and cold, so it's perfect for figuring out whether my choke is working.  I got the original choke to work by making some room on the ceramic heater with a dremel.

However, it's not working exactly like I expected.  If I understand what I've researched so far, the choke is supposed to snap the choke plates shut when it's cold and you tap the throttle. In order for that to happen, I have to turn the choke housing pretty far counter clockwise and it doesn't seem to open fully when the car gets warm.

I have more questions if you guys aren't tired of me yet.

How much resistance should the fast idle cam be putting against the choke?  I can move it easily with my finger, but the choke seems to not have enough oomph to kick it to high idle unless I really crank it over.

At what temperature should the choke be fully closing?  On a warmish 60º F day, It probably doesn't need to close completly, right?

jimdaug

Autozone didn't have any in stock, so I decided to order the Holley 45-258, which is the replacement thermostat for the holley 45-223 conversion kit.  Is there any reason that this one won't work?

Also, I should mention that I haven't been hooking up the ceramic heater, becase the one on the new carb has a little raised plasitc part (to ground out at a certain temperature I think) that was interfering with the choke lever and causing it to drag.  So I put the one from the old carb in as a spacer, but it doesn't show a ground when I test it with my test light.  How much does that heater do, I'm under the impression it only helps open the choke faster?

dave1987

Sounds like a good idea. Keep us updated.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

jimdaug

Thanks Pintony. That makes sense about the tab pushing against the adjusting screw. It seems to be grounded ok, but another wire won't hurt.  I'll give all of that a try and see what happens.  Thanks again.

PS. I'll bump your feed back if someone can tell me where to do it.

EDIT:*********

OK, so the pull down was out of adjustment, I fixed that.  I hooked my little jump box up so that the carb was grounded to it, and ran a jumper from the + cable to the choke.  It had good ground and power and still didn't move.  I guess I'm going to have to try getting a new one tomorrow and see if that works :(.

Pintony

Quote from: dave1987 on February 29, 2008, 01:39:25 PM
Pintony comes to the rescue again! :D
Thanks Dave,
Yes and I still only got 52 feedback....
Feeling darned un-appreciated right now...
From Pintony

dave1987

1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

Pintony

Here is how to find a nice PDF file for instructions to the electric choke.

Click here!! And type 45-223 in the search box
http://www.holley.com/TechService/Instructions.asp


From Pintony

Pintony

Hello jimdaug,
Mount the choke as it is supposed to be on the carb leaving the 3 screws loose so you can rotate the housing.
Holding the throttle wide open rotate the choke housing back and fourth. The choke plate should move.
rotate the housing untill the choke plate just closes and snug the 3 screws.
Apply power to the unit make sure you have a good ground wire located on the carb. Remember that the engine is mounted in rubber mounts and the carb is mounted on a fiber gasket. Make the grounding process easy of the system to work.
Hold the throttle wide open again just after applying power. The choke plate should move.
It will not move if the throttle is not held wide open as the stepped tab is pushing against the adjusting screw.
From Pintony


jimdaug

Why would it be stuck at any size?

As far as I can tell, It hasn't moved while under power, wheter it was on the carb or off.  It would have had to have moved in the first place in order to get stuck there.

I have a Chilton's Pinto manual that says to check the pulldown with a 15/64 in. drill bit. I'll try that, but I still think the electric choke should be able to pull itself open if the car isn't running.  Which it isn't by the way. I have yet to get it to run for more than 2 minutes.

dave1987

I'm guessing that it is now permanently stuck in that position and at that size now. I do not see why it would effect the performance of the choke though. It would still expand and contact, even if it's spring arch is slightly larger now. What really matters is the pull down setting.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

jimdaug

Yes, i did, but it didn't move at all.

dave1987

For #1 - Metal expands and contracts when heated and cooled, which is how the electric choke works. When it heats to a certain extent, it can expand greatly, to a point where it will not contract back to it's original shape after being cooled. Did you power the spring outside of its housing?

For #3 - Yes, you rotate the choke until the specified throttle blade setting is reached, which is measured using a drill bit. Pulling out my carburetor papers, it says the choke pull down should be set to 1/4" for a Holley 5200 on a 1978 vehicle, however it does not go any further back than 78. The pull down is measured by putting the drill bit between the throttle blade and the inner barrel on the lower end of the blade, then tightening or loosening the choke until the blade is snug against the bit, and the bit is still straight, vertically.

I will do some research and attempt to find the pull down setting for a 74.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

jimdaug

Thanks Dave.

Maybe I should clarify #1 a little bit.  When I hooked it up to power after putting the choke in the refridgerator, it did not go back to where it was before it was cooled down.

For number 3, do you mean that you rotate the choke to set the throttle blades, or is there some other way of doing it?

dave1987

1. I do not know if you can watch the coil move, but it does not move much, maybe 3/8 of an inch (on the eye hole where the spring connects to the choke cam) when assembled. From my personal experiance, the choke does not cool down quickly at all. If I drive the car from one side a parking lot to the other and turn the car off, then reset the choke with the gas pedal, it doesn't not reset when starting the car again. I usually have to wait 15-25 minutes for it to cool off.

2. I would assume the coil would get warm, at the least. Probably not burning hot because the housing is plastic and it would melt. The housing on my stock choke does not have burn or black marks around the coil at all.

3. I do not let the choke heat up at all. I deal with it cold and when I have to set the choke I assemble it cold, then adjust the throttle blades according to my adjustments sheet.

4. The curb idle should be adjusted when the car is fully warmed up. With the aid of a tachometer or other device to monitor engine speed. I use a Sears engine analyzer from the early 80's that my dad never used after purchasing.

If there's anything I missed, and probably did, Pintony will be more than happy to correct it. ;)


This is actually the exact same one I use to tune my car!

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/578518768.html

Not bad of a price for how amazingly helpful it is!

That coupled with this timing light (which my dad still has and uses)

http://cgi.ebay.com/SEARS-TIMING-LIGHT-MODEL-2159_W0QQitemZ220200685215QQihZ012QQcategoryZ42291QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem

and you are set.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

jimdaug

So here's what I've got.  I'm working getting my kit car idling properly.  I ordered a holley 5200 for a 1974.  Wanting to convert it to an electric choke, I ordered a choke thermostat from a VW place for a weber DFEV.

Now the stupid questions.
1.  Should I actually be able to see the thermostat move when power is applied? Because it doesn't.  I threw it in the refridgerator to make sure I wasn't crazy, and it moved, which is good.  After that, I hooked it up to power, but the coil did not return to its previous positon very quickly.

2. Should the coil get warm to the touch?  I was under the impression that, under power, an electric choke would open all the way within 2 minutes, so it would have to get warmer than the surrounding air.  It stays pretty cool to the touch.

3. How do I index it? I figured I would just let it heat up and then install it so that the throttle blades were open all the way, and then when it cooled down, it would close them. Obviously that's not working.

4.  The curb idle screw is for normal idle speed and the fast idle screw is for when the choke is opening? yes or no.

The coils on the water version and the electric are both wound the same way, so that shouldn't be a problem.  The thermostat I have looks exactly like the advance auto parts picture of the electric choke from a 1980. I can't imagine the thermostat coil is bad, it's brand new, but I know how that can be.  Thanks for any help.

-James