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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

a/c heater core replacement, really that bad?

Started by clsecmbt, December 14, 2007, 03:13:22 AM

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dholvrsn

My '79 has factory AC, so my may be in luck.

Still, I'm trying to do my car with both the AC and the turbo.
'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
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'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser

apintonut

something i found out, is on the 79 wagon with ac the radiator is HUGE!!! maybe it just this car,  but i know what im buying for the turbo 74...
this is a little off the subject at hand, so im going to repost this.
74 hatch soon to be turbo 2.3
73 sedan soon to be painted
stiletto parts(4 sale)
79 pinto wagon & beentoad
wtb 75 yellow w/ black int. (rally?) like profile pic.

78cruisingwagon

Yup, the aftermarket AC kit uses the stock heater box and mounts the AC blower right behind the glovebox. The Pinto still has it's fresh air vents in place. The controls are in a wide plate that replaces a piece of dash trim
(they had to cut the hole in the dash).

78cruisingwagon

I've got a 78 Sedan I bought about five years ago for parts (It had been wrecked in 1979, bought back from the insurance company by the owner, then stored in a shed until I bought it. It only has 12,080 miles on it and the motor is NOT locked up, and it still has it's original everything!) It has dealer installed AC on it. Next time I'm at my shed I'll take a look and let you all know about the box. (I obviously haven't stripped it yet).

77turbopinto

Quote from: Starliner on December 25, 2007, 10:40:54 PM
You guys are scaring me!   Wifey's car is a 79 Pinto with AC. 

As mentioned above, the 79's and 80's are much easier.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

Starliner

You guys are scaring me!   Wifey's car is a 79 Pinto with AC. 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

wedge446

I just want to keep the AC.. If I need any heat I can install a 12volt heater for the few days we really need one here..
My plan is to make a small box that the evap. will fit into with a blower motor. Then pipe it to the windshield to defog it and a cut out for the cab..
I should save about 10 to 15 Lbs. by doing that..
I`m also going to hole saw the snot out of the dash and install a cap over it.  I loose weight anywhere I can..
With a cutting torch and welded anything will fit.

77turbopinto

If you are looking to keep both the A/C and a heater, the stock box might be your best option. Yes, it is heavy, but you would only be saving the difference between that box and the substitute; that might not be much for all the work involved. Maybe you can save the pounds elsewhere?

IF you are to delete the heater, MAYBE a stock non-A/C heater box could be fitted for just the (a) evap.? The only bad parts are that the heater box is made of plastic and the blower will be in the engine bay. The good part is the blower motor is fine there for a 302.

I have a non-A/C box and duct work if you need it.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

wedge446

I want to keep the stock dash in there.. Kinda have the stoke look if someone looks inside(cops)
I was thinking about taking one of the dash pad caps and some how fid it where I can bolt it down with out using the stock dash pad.. Maybe use spray foam to set some studs in place...
With a cutting torch and welded anything will fit.

apintonut

Quote from: wedge446 on December 19, 2007, 08:23:28 PM
Its factory AC.. And your right about the main box. I took the ends & vents off, pulled the dash out abit and it came right..
The carpet was the 1st thing I removed when I bought the car... I remove them no matter what they look like, all that I`ve removed from older cars were wet.. Thats why floor pans rust....
If the box wasn`t so heavy I would put it back in, I`m trying to make the car as lite as possable but still have a few comforts(AC).
I `m also thinking of leaving the dash pad off, it looks real bad and may save me a pound or two :-)


there was a pinto wagon running around portland with almost no dash just a 4" aluminum box a a home made column support u may try that. it looked very different.
74 hatch soon to be turbo 2.3
73 sedan soon to be painted
stiletto parts(4 sale)
79 pinto wagon & beentoad
wtb 75 yellow w/ black int. (rally?) like profile pic.

wedge446

Its factory AC.. And your right about the main box. I took the ends & vents off, pulled the dash out abit and it came right..
The carpet was the 1st thing I removed when I bought the car... I remove them no matter what they look like, all that I`ve removed from older cars were wet.. Thats why floor pans rust....
If the box wasn`t so heavy I would put it back in, I`m trying to make the car as lite as possable but still have a few comforts(AC).
I `m also thinking of leaving the dash pad off, it looks real bad and may save me a pound or two :-)
With a cutting torch and welded anything will fit.

pintoguy76

Quote from: 77turbopinto on December 18, 2007, 08:55:37 PM
The NON-A/C box splits front to back, the A/C box has a top and a bottom. If you left the 'BACK' part in the car (the one closer to the firewall), that car DID NOT have A/C.

Bill

Is it possible that his car had dealer AC instead of factory AC? Dealer AC might have about the same box as the heat only cars..
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

77turbopinto

Quote from: wedge446 on December 19, 2007, 07:25:50 PM
...The trick it to take the box apart while it under the dash and then remove it...

Just to clarify, the main 'box' can not be taken apart under the dash, but the assembiles on the ends do need to be removed.

http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,3513.msg20784.html#msg20784

Why not put that box back in? (that's the FUN part)

BTW: Did you take out the carpet?

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

wedge446

I removed my heater/AC box today and it wasn`t as bad as I thought it would be..
The car is a 75 pinto wagon.
I did have to take just about the whole dash apart and remove 1 dash bolt but I didn`t have to remove the dash
The trick it to take the box apart while it under the dash and then remove it.. It takes time but I didn`t want to remove the windshield & dash so it was worth the time.
I think it would go back in the same way..
This thing is HEAVY!  I`m going to make my own box to keep the AC(Florida heat) maybe the heater.. I might try an elec. heater for the colder days..
With a cutting torch and welded anything will fit.

77turbopinto

Quote from: apintonut on December 18, 2007, 07:12:33 PM
...i was able to take it all apart in the car left the back of the box in...

The NON-A/C box splits front to back, the A/C box has a top and a bottom. If you left the 'BACK' part in the car (the one closer to the firewall), that car DID NOT have A/C.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

apintonut

the ducted to the dash fell out they were already fulling out when i started. i had intended to put them back in it was like 7 years ago when i did it but im sure it had a/c and that i was able to take it all apart in the car left the back of the box in. just lose in the car. i know i had the dash about 50% striped. and the windshield in and the front seat  the car.  like i said it was 7+ year ago. but if he is getting a good deal on the car and has the time to spend on it its worth the work to fix it.
74 hatch soon to be turbo 2.3
73 sedan soon to be painted
stiletto parts(4 sale)
79 pinto wagon & beentoad
wtb 75 yellow w/ black int. (rally?) like profile pic.

77turbopinto

Quote from: apintonut on December 17, 2007, 11:11:39 PM
i have done this in a 77 bobcat with out any trouble other than at the time i felt dumb that it took about 10+ hours i did not remove the dash but did take the glove box, center console and stereo out. all the air ducted did not make it back in. my bro. totaled it a week later.
if u have the time, go for it!  just TAKE YOUR TIME. thats my only advice


Why did you leave the ducts out?

Both the removal and install required me to not only remove the items you mentioned, which are the ones that need to come out to do the NON-A/C box, but also: the shifter, glove box door + hinge, kick panels, radio, gauge cluster, dash speaker, front seats, door sill plates, console, console/dash support brace, ash tray, ash tray frame, dash vents, carpet (rolled back), all under carpet padding and sound mats on the tunnel and right front floor to the firewall, and I needed to loosen the bottom of the dash. Also, don't expect to have the box as one assembly when it comes out, it needs to have parts removed before it will slide out under the dash. Keep in mind that when I installed the one in my tan car it had no evap. and I removed the drain flange from the box.

BTW: I did remove another one from a car, but I removed the windshield and dash first as I was gutting the car; it was still a pain, just different.


Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

dick1172762

Do what I've done many times. Remove the small gasket from the rad cap and your leak will go away. This will not work in the summer, but by then you can bypass the heater and install a new rad cap. I've had cars that went for years like this. Beats changing that core anytime.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

apintonut

i have done this in a 77 bobcat with out any trouble other than at the time i felt dumb that it took about 10+ hours i did not remove the dash but did take the glove box, center console and stereo out. all the air ducted did not make it back in. my bro. totaled it a week later.
if u have the time, go for it!  just TAKE YOUR TIME. thats my only advice
74 hatch soon to be turbo 2.3
73 sedan soon to be painted
stiletto parts(4 sale)
79 pinto wagon & beentoad
wtb 75 yellow w/ black int. (rally?) like profile pic.

clsecmbt

-1971 Pinto Runabout

77turbopinto

Quote from: clsecmbt on December 14, 2007, 03:13:22 AM
I'm looking at a late 70's bobcat, but it needs a heater core replacement. I am very mechanically inclined but I've only done heater cores in Mavericks and Blazers. This car DOES have A/C, it does not work, and hasn't in years. It's winter here, and cold, I want this car as a driver so it needs heat if I buy it. Everyone I found via search says it's a pain, but how bad is it really? Does the entire dash have to be removed or what? Thanks in advance.

The first thing: Is the car a '79/'80?

You have a few options.

If you don't want to have A/C you can smash, break, and rip apart the box and install a non-A/C one. You won't have to remove the dash to install the regular heater box. BTW: I don't reccamend this, but if you do it please let me know before you do it, I will trade all the broken parts for a good non-A/C heater box.

You can TRY to do the job leaving the dash in. This is a big pain (ask me how I know), and requires LOTS of CAREFULL time to get everything out (no guaranties you won't damage parts doing it). There are parts that are VERY prone to brakeage. I have removed one without taking the dash out, BUT I have never installed one WITH the A/C Parts still in it; I only installed it as a 'heater' box in my turbo car (still not fun).

Your BEST BET if you want to keep the A/C system in the car (maybe to have it work at some point) is to remove the dash. That being said, if your car is a 79-80, this is fairly easy; remove the trim rubber and you can get at the mount screws very easily. If the car is a PRE'79, you SHOULD remove the windshield FIRST. The windshield gasket covers the screws and is not easily moved without risk of damaging it, the dash or the glass. New gaskets are available on-line. I would suggest getting the gasket first. When you remove the glass, you should not try to 'rope' it back out. Cut the gasket on the ouside and lift the glass out.


Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

clsecmbt

I'm looking at a late 70's bobcat, but it needs a heater core replacement. I am very mechanically inclined but I've only done heater cores in Mavericks and Blazers. This car DOES have A/C, it does not work, and hasn't in years. It's winter here, and cold, I want this car as a driver so it needs heat if I buy it. Everyone I found via search says it's a pain, but how bad is it really? Does the entire dash have to be removed or what? Thanks in advance.
-1971 Pinto Runabout