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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Pinto Powered Mustang Roadster

Started by rob289c, July 19, 2020, 06:19:07 PM

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rob289c

I don't plan to get crazy with cutting.  I am going to try to get this done next weekend in between working, hanging Christmas lights and whatever other activities that present themselves.  I keep saying that I should put it away for the season but I can't stop myself while I continue to make progress! 
rob289c

Wittsend

Take your time cutting the springs. Better to cut numerous times then to cut them too short. Remember too that you are cutting for compressed height equivalent, not free length. Lastly every time the spring gets cut it makes it stiffer. So what measurement had one effect, the next successive cuts will be somewhat different. Given the weight distribution of this configuration I would also put equivalent weight in the seats of the driver and passenger.

rob289c

I had a busy weekend doing other than Pinto/Mustang work but on Friday I painted the upper and lower control arms.  Today I mounted the upper and lower control arms.  I haven't installed the coil springs yet.  When the lower control arm is horizontal, the compressed length of the springs are about 9".  The new springs are 13.5 inches.  The instructions say they need to be cut but they don't say how much to cut off.  I am going to start by cutting 1/2 of a coil off and see how that sits.  It could be trial and error...I don't want to cut too much off.  The only weight on the front end will be the frame, bumper, headlights.  There will be no hood, fenders, doors, so I won't have much weight to compress the springs.  I ordered the 300 lb springs with the kit. 
rob289c

rob289c

Over the weekend I fabricated my bushings that returned the lower control arm mounting holes back to 1/2" after enlarging to 5/8" for the control arms I wasn't able to use.  I made two trips to the hardware store to buy the bolts to mount the lower arms.  I initially went to there to buy 1/2" x 5" but made a call at the line of scrimmage to buy 4 1/2" as the 5" looked too long.  I should have stuck with my first idea as I went back to exchange the 4 1/2" for the 5" bolts.  Today I found the original bolts that are perfectly serviceable but too late now.  I also found the one steering rack mounting bolt that I was able to salvage.  I had to cut the other one off as no amount of penetrating oil, heat and hammering would budge it.  I need to buy another one:  5/8" x 7 1/2" or x 8", Grade 5.  Today I screwed the ball joint into the right lower control arm.  I had to use a 24" pipe wrench with a 2'+ pipe for extra leverage.  Speedway sent me two right lower control arms so I am waiting on the left arm.  I hope it will be here before Friday.  I took Friday off (Vet's Day) and it will be warm enough to paint the arms and other misc parts black.  Today I sprayed primer on the two upper arms and the right lower arm.  I wire wheeled the sway bar and attaching brackets, and the brackets that mount the front brake hoses to the frame.  I sprayed all those parts and the driveshaft with rust converter.  They will get painted on Friday.  By Sunday the paint will have cured so I should be able to get the front suspension assembled.  I am eating the elephant one bite at a time!
rob289c

rob289c

Update on my front suspension setback...the lower control arms that came with my kit were not meant to be used with a stock Pinto crossmember.  I was crystal clear when I called to inquire about a font suspension kit that I was using a stock Pinto platform, yet the recommended the kit that I purchased.  It was a $200 upgrade to the kit I originally had selected and the selling point was that the tubular arms were better than the stamped steel arms, and best of all, they eliminated the need for strut rods, providing more clearance for a header.  I felt it was worth the extra $200 so that's what I got.  After calling Speedway on Monday, I have a set of tubular, but stock mount lower control arms coming and should be delivered tomorrow.  That will solve my problem but is costing me more $$$, engineering and work.  The first step for installing the original arms was to drill out the 1/2 mounting hole to 5/8.  You guessed it...the arms I now have to use use 1/2 bolts.  Now I have to close the holes so I can use the 1/2" bolts.  I have a plan that includes using 7/16 Grade 8 flat washers (opened up to 1/2"), welded to a 5/8 OD x 1/2 ID sleeve.  The sleeve fits nicely in my enlarged mounting hole and the washer will be welded to the outside of the crossmember where the mounting bolt goes through.  I will send pics after I do the work that will better explain.  I have layed awake the last three nights trying to come up with a good way to return the mounting holes to 1/2" and came up with this plan.  I will do it on Saturday and am confident it will work.  My next challenge is that I don't see the mounting tab for the sway bar on the control arm.  I have reached out to Speedway to see if they sell a bracket that I can weld to the arm.  I'm pretty sure they do.  I don't know why it wouldn't be included if these are supposed to be tubular, stock replacement arms.  I'll find out soon enough...
rob289c

PintoTim2

Sweet Tiger!   My friend Randy has a super nice Alpine (the 4 cylinder version of the Tiger) and had a Tiger that came disassembled with the parts in bushel baskets!   After 20+ years he finally realized that he'd never get to it, so he sent it all to a restoration shop.  After they stripped the paint off, they discovered the whole bottom of the car was made of pop rivited heating duct metal.  He was so disappointed he sold it off.   

rob289c

Your Tiger looks cool.  Hopefully you can finish it some day and also the Corvair.  I like the 1965 and up COrvairs more than the early cars but they are all cool.  There s a 327-powered one that goes to a cruise in that I go to.
rob289c

Wittsend

The Tiger is an early car, the 101st one made. Originally it was a 260 car but somewhere in life it got a 289 (5 bolt). I did a lot of work on it between 2000 (when I bought it) and 2004. Then for one reason or another I always had some other car (including my Pinto Turbo engine swap) that I felt I could get done faster and the Tiger always sat. Family obligations got in the way too. I retired in 2014 but that didn't seem to change anything. In 2019 I actually did some quarter panel repair but as winter approached I again got diverted.


I have a 1961 Corvair Lakewood station wagon. I actually have had it longer than the Tiger (since 1995).  So in the winter of 2019 I decided that I would work on the Corvair ONLY IN THE WINTER and only when the days were nice. Then Covid came and the Corvair just kept rolling into Spring , Summer etc., etc. and here we are with 2023 staring us in the face and nothing done on the Tiger and the Corvair with significant done..., but still a long way to go. Such is life.




rob289c

Wittsend:  I would love a Tiger.  Poor Man's Shelby.  Is yours a 260 or 289?

Today was to be the day I assembled the front suspension.  It didn't go as planned.  I enlarged the lower control arm mounting holes to 5/8" as the instructions stated, but that's as far as I got.  I thought that if any part of this project would be a brainless, bolt together process, but I was wrong.  The lower control arms do fit as I would have expected.  The front tube hits the horizontal flange of the crossmember so it doesn't fit as it should.  I also tried to install the steering rack.  The mounting bolts are 4 1/2" long.  The cross member alone is 4" and there is about 2" of the mounting bushing on the rack so the 4 1/2" bolts aren't even close.  I will be calling Speedway tomorrow to talk to their Tech Dept.  I need this to work.  Maybe whoever picked the parts off the shelf for the kit pull incorrect parts.  I was hoping to have it on 4 wheels today but it wasn't in the cards.  I'll find out more tomorrow.  I did put the rims and tires on the rear to see what it was going to look like.  The good news it that I will have the paperwork I need to register it this week. 
rob289c

Wittsend

I have to say I'm envious of you guys that have all that garage space. I have a 2 car garage that between counters/workbench and laundry is more like a 1-1/2 car garage. My long unattended Sunbeam Tiger has sat on jackstands in the middle for 22 years. You sure are diligent. All the best in the completion.

dga57

Congratulations on meeting your goal and good luck on assembling that front suspension.  It would, indeed, put you in a good position for next year!

Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

rob289c

A little more progress...i reinstalled the engine this morning.  My goal was to get it back in before November 1 so since I met the goal a bit early, I am planning to assemble the front suspension.  If I don't get to it, I made good progress.  If I do, I'll be in better shape to get it done next year!
rob289c

dga57

Now, THAT is progress!!!  I'm impressed!

Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

rob289c

Today after doing a PM, Tire Rotation and Rear Brake Job on my daily driver Mazda 6, I removed the header from the 2.3 and re-installed the factory exhaust manifold and rear lifting lug.  Then I removed the engine from the stand, installed the ring gear and plate, the torque converter, then bolted the engine to the tranny.  Then I bolted on the starter.  I removed the tranny pan and cleaned out the green oil that was in there.  I had previously drained the fluid...not sure what the green stuff was. I installed a new tranny filter, then cleaned, primed and painted the tranny pan.  I installed the new trans mount.   Tomorrow AM the engine-trans assembly will go back in the chassis.  I have to wash the two Harleys, the Mustang, and the Mazda.  I need to start arranging the garage for Winter storage.  I think I am going to have enough time to assemble the front suspension before the cold sets in.  That will put me ahead of my goal for this year.  At some point I have to run the mower around and zoop up leaves tomorrow so I may not get to the front end...I have a couple of weeks before we start mandatory Saturday work days so I think I can get it done.
rob289c

rob289c

The pics below represent the progress I have made to date.  I installed the fuel pump, fuel pump bracket, thermostat, motor mounts, intake, carb, distributor, power steering pump, alternator, belts.  I degreased and wire brushed/wheeled the exhaust hangers, rear tie downs, tranny mounts, accelerator linkage and the line from the fuel pump to carb.  I sprayed them all with rust convertor.  I will spray them all black over this week, although it is supposed to be cold so I may wait until next weekend.  The header, air cleaner and valve cover are just on temporarily.  The header will come off before putting the engine back in the chassis.  I will bolt the stock exhaust manifold and lifting ring back on for the installation.  Next weekend I will change the tranny filter, then bolt the engine and tranny back together in preparation for reinstalling the assembly back in the chassis.  If I have time I will assemble the front suspension, brakes, and steering.  If I run out of time, I will just roll it into the corner until April/May.  I have an issue with one of the motor mounts and will post my question/concerns on the "Ask the Experts" forum.  Moving right along...
rob289c

rob289c

Mine was not AC so I don't think I have that same type of valve.  When I get to that point I will investigate further and see if it is something I can easily do.
rob289c

davidpinto

CAR HAD AC,GOT RID OF THAT, SO HEATER VALVE IS VACUUM OPERATED.NOTICE VALVE IS ON THE HOSE FROM WATER PUMP.
D BARHAM

davidpinto

D BARHAM

rob289c

Is your heating system otherwise stock or is that an aftermarket heater valve?
rob289c

davidpinto

HERES A PIC OF MY HEATER HOSE SET UP
D BARHAM

rob289c

I looked at a few vendors and the H-Pipe is not in stock.  I am far from that point in my project anyway so I will check again in the future.  Thank you for providing the P/N!
rob289c

davidpinto

I HAVE HEAT ,NEW HEATER CORE TOO.THE H PIPE BYPASSES THE HEATER CORE WHEN THE HEAT IS OFF.WATER COMES OUT OF WATER PUMP AND RETURNS TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING.TURN HEAT ON AND VALVE OPENS TO CIRCULATE THRU HEATER CORE AND BACK TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING>THE H PIPE PART # IS 84515 FOUR SEASONS LINE.THIS SET UP WORKS WELL.
D BARHAM

rob289c

You must not have heat in your car?  I was planning to reinstall the hater box if there is room.  I won't get to that until some time next year....
rob289c

davidpinto

ROB289 :NEVER HAS OVERHEATED EVEN ON THE HOTTEST DAYS.I PUT A 5/8 DIA H PIPE IN FRONT OF HEATER VALVE SO WATER CIRCULATES ALL THE TIME.OLD FORD TRUCKS HAD THEM FROM THE FACTORY.
D BARHAM

rob289c

rob289c

one2.34me

Get an old extension or big screwdriver or punch and with a hammer hit the plug right inside the edge. It will drive the plug sideways in the hole and you can pull it out with pliers. You can put a film of sealant on the outer edge of the new plug and use a similar size socket or such to tap in the new plug.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=removing+freeze+plugs&&view=detail&mid=D1411E708B1592EB8697D1411E708B1592EB8697&&FORM=VDRVRV

rob289c

What is the best way to remove them?  Hammer and screwdriver and pry them out?  And for replacement...tap them in with a hammer?  Is there a special installing tool?  Do you put any sealant on the lip before installing?  I've never replaced them...it was always done by the machine shop after hot-tanking.
rob289c

one2.34me

Rob, when I had my 2.3 out, I changed the freeze plugs. The one in the back of the head looked good, but when I removed it there was an area on its' backside almost completely corroded through. With your freeze plugs pulled you can reach into the block and remove a lot of gunk and material from the water jacket with your fingers and a magnet.

rob289c

So no overheating or no other negative effects?  It is plumbed into top heater pipe that runs along side the valve cover.  What is/was it's original function?
rob289c

davidpinto

I BRAZED UP THE WATER PORT ON MY INTAKE ,BOCKING IT OFF AND GOT RID OF ALL THAT EXTRA PLUMBING.MOTOR WARMS UP FASTER <SAVING FUEL>AND LOOKS A LOT CLEANER TOO.
D BARHAM