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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Need 1972 Instrument Cluster Removal Advice

Started by 1972 Wagon, January 24, 2017, 05:09:08 PM

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1972 Wagon

Sorry for the delay in responding to the various suggestions but we were at the Moultrie, Georgia, Swap Meet. My goal is to keep the car as close to original as possible. Plus, we have very limited mechanical abilities! Thanks pinto_one for the instrument cluster parts. The cracked socket is still functioning but one big bump in the road would probably knock it out. I hope that the "new" voltage regulator will bring the gas gauge back to life.
*The Original Family Car: A 1972 Pinto Wagon*
Ordered by my folks from Bunnell Motor Company, Inc., Bunnell, Florida
Delivered: June 20, 1972
Entrusted to my care: August 1976

pinto_one

She already figured out how to remove the panel , but as for using leds I tried that when they first came out , took them out because you can not dim them , too bright for dark roads at night and screws up your night vision,
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

LongTimeFordMan

Ive done a lot of mods on my cluster including replacing the bulbs with led lamps, replacing the regulator with a solid state adjustable one and  and rewiring the entire cluster to replace the printed circuit board..  disconnecting the speedo cable takes about 10 seconds, ive done it prolly 20 times to do the mods..to disconnect the cable,  KNEEL OUTSIDE  the driver door fac8ng the cront of the car, with your left hand reach up behind the dash on the left side of the steering column, just to the right of the vent cable, then over the steering column.  Find the speedo cable.. follow it up to the speedo, there is a retaining clip holding the cable into the speedo,  on top of the retainer is a square tab, press down on the tab and the cable slips right off.. to replace the cable... kneel  outside the driver door,  reach up and over the steering column, find the cable, slide the retainer clip back along the cable a few inches,  insert the cable into the speedo, and make sure it is completely seated into the speedo. You might need to apply pressure to the cluster to insure the cable is inserted all the way into the speedo,  and or to remove and reinsert it a few times until the cable is aligned with the socket in the speedo. slip the retainer up onto the end of the cable till it latches, you are finished...
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

pinto_one

Hey I just found them , and also got you a voltage regulator for the fuel gauge , will try to make it to the post office before they close to mail them to you today , if not they are going out monday , the hand full of bulb sockets should help out with the broken ones , enjoy , later Blaine
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: 1972 Wagon on January 25, 2017, 03:32:05 PM
Is there a source to buy a new socket? The socket says "Ford 18" on the back.

As far as I can tell, the sockets are a standard "twist lock" type. I found scads of new ones online.

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on January 25, 2017, 06:50:10 AM
Always wondered why MFG's never use a coupler just inside the firewall, would make thing so much easier and quicker.

My guess is that the speedometer cable is installed on the cluster first and then run through the firewall. It's faster for assembly line steps, but a PITA for repair. That is ideal for Ford; it costs less to manufacture the car upfront and makes for more billable repair hours at the stealership.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

LongTimeFordMan

calibrate your gas gauge... two methods.. hard way.. drain the tank and add 1 gallon at a time and note the gauge, adjust as necessary.  easy way.. check the voltage between ground and output of lm317 at the fuel gauge and turn the shaft of the pot to adjust the voltage to 5.2 volts as a start..

fill the tank and turn the shaft of the pot to adjust the 10k pot to make the gauge read about 1/16" past full.. drive till gauge reads 1/2,  fill tank and note the amount of fuel it takes.. tank should hold 12 gallons.. when gauge reads 1/2 it should take 6 gallons to fill tank.  if it takes more or less, subtract the amount needed to fill the tank from 12 and adjust the pot to make the gauge read correctly. drive till the gauge again reads 1/2 and fill the tank,  it should now take 6 gallons.. when you get the gauge to read correctly at 1/2 tank, drive till gauge reads 1/4, fill tank, it should take 7-8 gallons.. now you know that at 1/4 you have 4 gallons left.. if you are  adventurous, when tank gets to 1/4, drain it to see where "empty" reads on gauge.. add gas 1 gallon at a time to see where gauge reads..at each increment.

have fun..
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

LongTimeFordMan

I have a 73 pinto and figured out some tips..  If you kneel on the ground outside of the driver door, you can reach up on the left side of the steering column and over the column and get to the speedo cable pretty easily to both remove and reinstall it..do yourself a favor annd next time you have the cluster out , disassemble the plastic covers and line the inside with aluminum foil and change to led llights..
amazon 20 for 9.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GSAM1ZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

makes a world of difference..  also I fought with the original flexible printed circuit for several months on and off then replaced it with point to point wiring and a 9 pin connector to connect to the cluster to the main harness.. I also changed the mechanical ivr with a solid state adjustable voltage regulator..  LM317  (about .50 to 3.00) depending where you buy it.. amazon... 10 for 2.69 plus shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AUECKR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



with a 10k pot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JR6HZLK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

amazon 11 for 5.99

used to adjust the voltage.. you can look up a simple circuit if you search fo LM317.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjJgZiYu_DRAhXL64MKHdybBUkQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.learningaboutelectronics.com%2FArticles%2FLM317-voltage-regulator&psig=AFQjCNF6p7SRd0meaJCb5h6O00WhPkvIpQ&ust=1486092241062649

I attached lead wires for the regulator (three) to the pot and let it hang below the cluster with the cluster installed so I could calibrate the gauges.. for my gauges, i found that the voltage needs to be adjusted to 5.2 v for the gauge to read just past full, 1/2 with 6 gal in the tank and 1/4 with 4 gal in the tank. will make some photos but dont seem to be able to upload them.  stay tuned for photos.. i will also check the main harness color codes and pass along the color codes and connections to the gauges..
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

1972 Wagon

At the Moultrie Car Swap many years ago, I found a 5 volume set of original 1973 Ford Shop Manuals for $20. I figured that many of the repairs and illustrations would cross over to my 1972 and for $20 I couldn't go wrong. The problem that I have found, besides being a non-mechanical person (The engine volume will never wear out!), is that the books have great pictures for the other 1973 Fords but not for the Pinto. It is like the Pinto was the stepchild in the group. I have a Chilton's Pinto book and an Auto Press Pinto book which often have simpler-to-understand explanations (At least for me!). Pinto_One shared the best pictures and that helped me get the speedometer cable off. Otherwise I'd still be under the dash shaped like a pretzel!
*The Original Family Car: A 1972 Pinto Wagon*
Ordered by my folks from Bunnell Motor Company, Inc., Bunnell, Florida
Delivered: June 20, 1972
Entrusted to my care: August 1976

chriss

i'd just thought I would add my 2 cents worth.. Removing the cluster in my '71 was a major pain.. they make it look so easy in the Pinto do-it yourself book.. but the first time doing it is a bit of a challenge. I removed the crash pad on mine and sent it out to just dashes. the Pinto shop manual is pretty worthless on the location of the nuts that hold the pad to the dash.  The main connector going to cluster was stubburn to get it out. and the speedo cable.. someone said have a kid do it.. that does work.  My 12 year old nephew got it out for me.
1971 Pinto sedan 2000cc      1969 Plymouth Satellite 4dr slant 6  69k miles      1980 Olds 442  1 of 886.     1992  Mustang LX 5.0 convertible, 1987 Camaro convertible 1 of 263. 1995 Z28 convertible 21k original owner . 2008 Silverado. 2016  Camry  s/e

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

1972 Wagon

Just came in from performing my pretzel routine yet again. I am now an expert at removing the speedometer cable. After checking my Pinto books, I realized that I had missed replacing the bulb in the pigtail socket. Since it is dark, I figured that it would also make it easier to check the cluster illumination lights and it did. The upper fuel gauge bulb needed to be twisted a bit more and it came on. I took the cracked socket and switched it with the left turn signal socket. Switching the sockets fully illuminated the fuel gauge section. The left turn signal light is currently working but it may quit if I hit a bump in the road as it is a bit loose. I have taken two Advil for a stiff neck but at least the Pinto has all its cluster lights working!
*The Original Family Car: A 1972 Pinto Wagon*
Ordered by my folks from Bunnell Motor Company, Inc., Bunnell, Florida
Delivered: June 20, 1972
Entrusted to my care: August 1976

pinto_one

Yes I do work on airplanes , yes I do have my blood and DNA on most of them , yes you are right they never thought someone would be tiny enough to work on them , and Inalso keep a first aid kit in my tool box ,  and for 1972 Wagon if you need sockets I have some extra if you need them , send me a PM for a way to get them to you , and congratulations for not leaving and skin and blood behind  ;D
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

1972 Wagon

Thanks to Pinto_One's pictures, I got the instrument cluster out. No blood was shed in the process. I did my pretzel act again but this time put a blanket over the brake pedal. It was a bit more comfortable! Now that I knew where to press, the cable easily slid off. We replaced every bulb, even the ones that were working so we would not have to repeat the task any time soon. Now all lights work except one- the speedometer light. The old bulb was clearly burned out. That socket had a small section next to the bulb missing but the exterior ring and wires were intact. It holds in the slot but seems not as "tight" as the others. Is there a source to buy a new socket? The socket says "Ford 18" on the back. It wasn't working before so I am no worse off. On the bright side, no pun intended, the right turn signal indicator now works. Suggestions?
*The Original Family Car: A 1972 Pinto Wagon*
Ordered by my folks from Bunnell Motor Company, Inc., Bunnell, Florida
Delivered: June 20, 1972
Entrusted to my care: August 1976

dick1172762

It would cost a penny more. You think cars are bad, work on an airplane for loss of blood. Everything made for a midget to do the work.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

74 PintoWagon

Always wondered why MFG's never use a coupler just inside the firewall, would make thing so much easier and quicker..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

pinto_one

Good idea Wittsend , but you forgot to add a box of Band-Aids of things to have on hand ;D
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

Wittsend

Find some kid and give him (or her) a dollar to get it out. You will both be happy and $1 is cheaper than a trip to the chiropractor.

1972 Wagon

Thanks so much for the tips and especially the pictures. When I have photos to show me what the part looks like it is easier for me to figure out what I need to do. The shop manual just has one diagram and basically says to remove the two screws and the speedometer cable. I had thought about removing the seat but as I am short, I laid on my back with my head on the brake pedal and put my legs on the seat. Trust me, it wasn't very comfortable. I will try again tomorrow.
*The Original Family Car: A 1972 Pinto Wagon*
Ordered by my folks from Bunnell Motor Company, Inc., Bunnell, Florida
Delivered: June 20, 1972
Entrusted to my care: August 1976

pinto_one

Here is a better photo of the cable looking down ,
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

pinto_one

Removing for the first time can be a painful experience, every thing in the back around the speedometer cable is sharp , and even though I have removed many a instrument panel from a pinto I always somehow leave my DNA on the sharp areas , to ease the blood loss I remove the drivers seat , them the one screw or two the holds the fuse box , the end of the cable has a ring around it that has to be pushed in to release it from the speedo head , push in the cable and push this spot (see photo where I am pointing to) then pull off the cable , after take your time changing the bulbs , you could remove the wire plug but it could be brittle so take care there , bulb number is 194 , hope this helps you
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

1972 Wagon

I have several burned out bulbs in my 72's instrument cluster and would like to replace all of them at one time. I checked the archives and read the advice that was given as well as read my Ford shop manuals (Why do all the other Ford cars have good photos and the Pinto has only a diagram?). I removed the two screws at the top of the cluster and gently pulled it forward. It only tilted forward about an inch and I couldn't get it to lift upward at all. There was no way to reach the speedometer cable. I tried becoming a pretzel and snaking my hand up behind the cluster to remove the speedometer cable. My fingers could just reach it. No matter how I tried to push on the speedometer quick release, I couldn't get it disconnected. I know that the cluster has never been removed and figured that it might be stiff plus I want to avoid breaking something. Does anyone have some tips that might help?
*The Original Family Car: A 1972 Pinto Wagon*
Ordered by my folks from Bunnell Motor Company, Inc., Bunnell, Florida
Delivered: June 20, 1972
Entrusted to my care: August 1976