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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

No Taillights

Started by blupinto, December 23, 2016, 11:48:00 PM

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LongTimeFordMan

Hi.. as a test and temporary repair you might try connecting a ground wire to the  factory  ground wire where it connects to the tail light and see if the light works then.. if it does you can then either track down the ground fault OR just attach a ground wire to the body and splice it into the tail light ground which is probably a good idea anyway.

Heres a link to a wiring diagram pg 16 for pinto.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.gt40s.com/images/torino/72ford.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwix69Cot4zTAhVsyoMKHWqfBtYQFgghMAI&usg=AFQjCNFbJ-K_deDtVQH2SpYXeeOrSMN6WA&sig2=yAdu-LjCiwEqAKaj_gpBkw


The ground wire is black and attaches to a screw on the rh real quarter panel
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles

blupinto

Hi everyone! I'm sorry for the delay in responding!  Ongoing issues not Pinto-related happening over here.


My friend David and I had the car over at his house. The brake light situation was fixed with a (slightly) different brake light switch than the one I originally installed and a new pigtail. However, we STILL have no taillights when the headlights go on, and when I put the turn signal to R or L, the front signals work properly, but the rear ones both come on, a la hazard lights. lol. There is power going to the sockets, but now we thing we need a new headlight switch. David also swears there's supposed to be a third wire going into that socket, but the wiring there doesn't look modified in any way. I'll look in my 1974 Ford Shop Manual and see, though.
One can never have too many Pintos!

nnn0wqk

So did you ever get your problem resolved and if so what was the issue?

dick1172762

VERY well written to say the least. And yes, we need to hear this out till it is finally corrected.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

nnn0wqk

Well I have seen lots of crazy things in my many years of turning wrenches. I have seen bulbs put in backwards and yes I know they are supposed to go only one way but where there is a will, murphy makes a way. That was the reason I asked what number bulb was in the tail lamps as I have also seen double contact bulbs that were only a single filament install in brake/tail lamp sockets.

Ford on the Pinto used a very strange way to get a body ground in 1974 and maybe other years as well. If you look at the OEM ground cable about half way down the cable is a clip that bolts the cable to the body. That was the original body ground. It actually worked very well when everything was clean. Most cables have been changed over the years. If changed to an ordinary ground cable then you needed to add a ground cable from the engine to the body or from the battery negative terminal to body. It is possible there may not be a good body ground anymore. Since it has been indicated that all electrical items except the tail lamps function the chances are very slim that a poor body ground is the issue but one could check.

So there are a couple of other quick and easy test that can be made with a test light that should help you determine if it is a power supply issue or a ground issue. With you test light connected to a good ground take the tip and touch the brass base of the bulb. It should not light up. If it does light and it could be anything from a dim light to a bright light then that would indicate you have a bad ground at that socket. Test both sides before doing anything else. If you see no light at all and if everything is good you should not see any light then go to step two. Remove the bulbs from the sockets and with the tail lights on and turn signal activated for which ever side you are testing probe the terminals at the base of the socket where the bulb makes contact you should see one terminal with a steady light and the other terminal that should blink which would be your turn signal. That test will determine if you have positive voltage feed for both circuits. If you do not find the expected results than address those issues. In looking at my harness tonight it appears there are three places you need clean metal for a good ground at the tail/brake lamps. First the inside of the socket needs to be clean to make good contact with the bulb, then the fingers where the socket snaps into the light housing and finally clean where the lamp housing bolts to the body.

Keep everyone posted as to what you find.

Wittsend

Quote from: nnn0wqk on January 18, 2017, 03:41:49 PM
"However, since they share a common socket it does prove that the grounds are good."

Actually no that does not prove the ground is good. ...

In this case she said the grounding points were sanded to clean metal, and that she had brake lights and turn signals.  Thus my assumption of good grounds. Also, if the current was passing through other filaments, in essence wired in series now, wouldn't that cause the functional bulbs in that circuit to dim?  As an example; there is no ground (on one side for the example), the brake lights come on but one side is passing through the tail light filament and finding a secondary ground. Shouldn't that brake light be dimmer?  There has been no mention of that.

Becky, I understand how persnickety HOA's can be. But, running a wire momentarily from the light socket housing to a bare metal spot on the car (like the hatch latch) takes all of 5 seconds -or less to do. All you need is about 3 feet of wire and even an unraveled metal coat hanger scraped of it's coating will do. Just turn the lights on, hold the wire to the metal grounding point and the metal on the bulb socket. If the tail lights light, it is a ground problem. I'f not, it is likely a wire problem. You only need to hold the wire long enough to see the tail lights light up ..., or not. Just a few seconds  This will forever end the debate about the problem being a ground - or not.  When you say you "cleaned to bare metal" was that at the socket to the housing ..., or the housing to the body ..., or both?  It needs to be both.

nnn0wqk

"However, since they share a common socket it does prove that the grounds are good."

Actually no that does not prove the ground is good. If you have a bad ground what will happen as long as you are only trying to use either the tail light or brake light is it will back feed through the other filament and find a ground in the other circuit. That is why when you test brake lights and tail lights you want the tail lights on and then step on the brake. If you have a bad ground then you will not get a light at all.

Looking at the wiring diagram that I have it shows that the mark tail lamp and license plate all share the same feed from the light switch. Which tell me you have a bad ground at those tail/brake light sockets. The other clue is the fact that you say the tail lights blink which would indicate to me a bad ground. What I would do for testing is bring a temporary ground wire from the frame to the light socket, does not need to be anything fancy, vice grip the wire to the frame and scrap a clean spot on the side of the socket and hold the wire to it and see what happens. I could be wrong but I sure do not see where you have a power feed issue with the other lights working.

Wittsend

To answer the last two posts in one:

The bulb is the very common 1157. It has been used almost universally with the older twist lock lights for decades.  It is a TWO filament bulb. Meaning it is two light bulbs in one.  The dimmer filament is the tail light.  The brighter filament is the COMBINATION Brake and Turn signal.  This is why the turn signals or brake lights working have no relevance on the tail lights working. They are powered independently and light different filaments.  However, since they share a common socket it does prove that the grounds are good.

  This leads me to believe 99% that the brown wire to the tail lights is either disconnected or broken. And it is somewhere "near" the back end of the car because the side marker and license plate light are functioning and share a common power source.  I'm not sure what side of the car the wiring runs down, but I'd assume the drivers side. Thus I would follow that brown wire (may be wrapped with others in black tape) from the tail light going toward the point of origin (most likely sideways before it goes forward) and see if you find the problem. The wire may be intact, and connected. It might be that the connection somewhere down the line is corroded . So, if you find ANY connector separate it and check.

nnn0wqk

What is the number on the bulb for the tail lights?

blupinto

Yes, the side markers and rear license plate light work.  The taillights are getting power- when I put the indicator to right or left, the taillights blink as if I pulled the hazard switch (the parking lights blink normally).  I cannot pull the car apart, as today I got a nasty gram from my idiotic HOA complaining and threatening to fine me for replacing my alternator belt outside as opposed to in my garage (no room in garage). 
One can never have too many Pintos!

Wittsend

Yes, parking lights (what the manual calls them) are the front lights (not headlights) that also function as turn signals.

As I stated above the brake, turn signal/flasher lights are wired separate from the tail lights. So, they can work and you still not get tail lights.

I don't think the switch is bad. The manual shows the front parking/rear tail lights on a common wire (brown). So, if they are coming on up front, then the should be coming on at the rear too.

The rear side marker lights and the license plate light should also be on that circuit too. Do they light up? If so it does indicate power is getting to the rear of the car off the headlight switch. If not ... .

There is a lot of wire between the switch in the dashboard and the lights at the rear. So, just looking at the rear access panel area is not everywhere the wire is run.  Typically the wire will come off the switch, runs down the left kick panel and either under the carpet, or under the metal sill plate.  From there it either runs under the rear seat, or in the rear seat area side panel to the back of the car.

You can test to see if grounds are the problem by taking a wire from the metal tail light housing (the part the bulb goes into) and jumping it to an unpainted part of the car like the hatch latch where the paint gets scraped off.  Just make sure the metal is clean of oxidation. And, no you won't get shocked by holding the ends of the wire. It is low voltage DC.

dga57

Quote from: blupinto on January 13, 2017, 11:08:34 PM
Also, the taillights (red areas) have one bulb. The hazard lights/turn signals work (weirdly but they come on)... could this be a bad headlight switch?


Sounds like a possibility to me!

Dwayne ???
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

blupinto

Also, the taillights (red areas) have one bulb. The hazard lights/turn signals work (weirdly but they come on)... could this be a bad headlight switch?
One can never have too many Pintos!

blupinto

I guess I wasn't clear on my original post. Yes, the front turn signal lights work (I'm assuming that's what are meant as parking lights.) They come on when the headlights come on, and they blink properly when I use the turn signal indicator wand.  The front signals work. The rear ones are funky. I pulled paneling out at the rear to see if there was a broken wire, but haven't found one. The car starts right up and runs great!

Dwayne, the turn signals weren't working well because of that bad turn signal/hazard light switch. I replaced that. Now I'm wondering if that's the issue, or the body shop might have something to do with it. Again, this was sudden onset! The lights all worked properly when I got it back from Maaco.
One can never have too many Pintos!

Wittsend

OK, I took a look at the wire diagram in the Clymer manual. From what I can interpret the turn signal circuit and  the emergency flashers are NOT involved in the tail/parking lights.  The tail/parking (and side marker) lights show a BROWN wire as being the positive side of the circuit. The tail lights ground through the housing to the body and the parking lights ground through a black wire.  It is all the same circuit on the brown wire.
  It would be helpful to know if the front parking lights are working. That would be proof that switch is working and power is getting through.   The problem is described as if both tail lights are not working. It would seem odd that both lights would lose ground simultaneously. If the rear side markers are also not working then that would lead me to believe that the Brown wire is broken or disconnected somewhere.

A quick remedy (assuming a broken wire) would be to just run a wire from the switch (Brown wire) to the rear and splice it into Brown wire in the vicinity of the tail lights. BUT, to do it neatly you pretty much have to follow the path of the original wire. And in doing so you might find the break or disconnect anyway.

dga57

Quote from: Wittsend on January 11, 2017, 10:07:51 AM
Lastly, it could be that the turn signal (it is basically an interrupt in the individual tail lights) is the source of the problem.  Those circuits can get as confounding as figuring which single bulb is causing a whole string of cheap Christmas lights not to illuminate. 

Becky,

Am I remembering correctly that there was an issue with the turn signals the day you first looked at the car, but that you got them working?  Wittsend might be on to something here!

Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

Wittsend

If all the other lights, fans, etc. work..., and the car starts..., then it  isn't the battery ground.

  Do the brake lights work?  If so then that would indicate the there is ground to the common tail light housing and that would not be the problem.

   Also, the front parking lights come on at the same time as the tail lights. It has NOT been mentioned that they don't work - so I'll assume they do.  They power through the same switch. The unknown is do they use the same contact point within the switch?  If it is a common contact point then the switch is not the problem. It has also been stated that the switch has been replaced so it is likely not the problem. IF the tail light wire was shorting out it would render the front paring lights non-operational since they are wired together. Thus it can be assumed the wire is not shorting.

It has the appearance that the tail light wire is either broken or disconnected somewhere. That should be checked for but requires removing panels, seats etc. to trace down. But first RE-CHECK that there are brake lights and front parking lights.  Lastly, it could be that the turn signal (it is basically an interrupt in the individual tail lights) is the source of the problem.  Those circuits can get as confounding as figuring which single bulb is causing a whole string of cheap Christmas lights not to illuminate.  I'll try and look at the diagram later today and see if there is anything that I can add (no promises).


dga57

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on January 11, 2017, 06:41:34 AM
Still sound like a ground issue to me, not necessarily in the back though, check the ground from the battery to the body, and all grounds for that matter..

Art,

Any and all insight you can offer will be much appreciated; this is my car she's working on!

Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

74 PintoWagon

Still sound like a ground issue to me, not necessarily in the back though, check the ground from the battery to the body, and all grounds for that matter..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Cookieboystoys

bummer, I'm out of ideas cept to check wiring...
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

blupinto

Yes. Headlights work, marker lights work... just funky taillights.

One can never have too many Pintos!

Cookieboystoys

all side marker lights working properly?
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

blupinto

Okay. I sanded the rear ground area and the contact til it was nice and shiny. Turn signals work... except in the rear- no matter which side the indicator is on- the taillights blink like they're on hazard mode. The front blinkers work properly. When the hazard light is pulled, all lights flash in hazard mode. The taillights still don't come on when the headlight switch is pulled, but the headlights themselves work lol Crazy!
One can never have too many Pintos!

phils toys

Is it possible for the light switch to be bad?
Congrats on the new pinto.
2006, 07,08 ,10 Carlisle 3rd stock pinto 4 years same place
2007 PCCA East Regional Best Wagon
2008 CAHS Prom Coolest Ride
2011,2014 pinto stampede

C. M. Wolf

Yup, "Ford's Better Idea".. save bucks on "Ground Wires" by using the vehicle's 'Uni-body" as the Ground. ...& then shoot the consumer/owner in the foot by "insulating" all the electronic components on the body, making the fastening screws critical grounds for any/all lights/electronics to work... weeeeee. (except that rust/corrosion & thick paint or paint in certain areas, aren't your 'friend')

BTW, please "don't stand in a pool of water & lick the Radio Antenna while the vehicle is running".. hahaha.. (I'm just joking w/ this,, but at any rate, you'll only look silly licking the radio antenna at any time).

Michael

blupinto

It's been raining these last few days- the one day it wasn't rainy or cold I went north to replace a friend's lower radiator hoses on her '99 Cavalier. I haven't even looked at the lights since I posted.
One can never have too many Pintos!

dick1172762

Becky! Whats the latest on the tail lights? Hope you get it worked out. Do the brake lights and turn signals work ok? Let us know.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dga57

Quote from: Cookieboystoys on December 28, 2016, 02:54:24 PM
You're welcome Dwayne, happy to share my experience after body and paint issues cause me similar problems, hope that is all it is.

Me too!  Thanks Brian!  By the way, it's good to see you on the site again!

Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

Cookieboystoys

Quote from: dga57 on December 25, 2016, 06:45:30 AM
That makes perfect sense to me because that's where the most extensive bodywork was done on the car!  New metal was fabricated back there because when they started sanding, unseen rust caused it to simply fall apart!  Thanks Brian!

Dwayne :)

You're welcome Dwayne, happy to share my experience after body and paint issues cause me similar problems, hope that is all it is.
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

Reeves1

Sounds like Brian has it covered.

I doubt it's wires..... likely grounding at the lights / sockets.