Mini Classifieds

Hatch needed
Date: 09/10/2017 09:16 pm
Radiator
Date: 05/27/2018 06:07 am
75 wagon need parts
Date: 05/28/2020 05:19 pm
13x6 minilite style wheels MAKE OFFER——NEED GONE

Date: 08/01/2018 01:17 pm
2.8 radiator
Date: 10/25/2019 04:10 pm
2.3 front sump oil pan
Date: 07/24/2018 03:17 pm
Oil pan front sump style
Date: 01/10/2017 09:19 am
71-73 Rear valance panel
Date: 01/14/2021 06:54 pm
Pinto 4-spd transmissions
Date: 06/15/2018 09:15 am

Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

Members
  • Total Members: 7,896
  • Latest: tdok
Stats
  • Total Posts: 139,585
  • Total Topics: 16,271
  • Online today: 2,773
  • Online ever: 3,214 (June 20, 2025, 10:48:59 AM)
Users Online
F&I...more

My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Taking the turbo plunge!

Started by 76hotrodpinto, January 27, 2015, 11:59:24 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

dga57

Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

76hotrodpinto

Look what santa brought me! Just what I've always wanted. A kuup stage 3 clutch kit!



And here it is on the flywheel. Shiny!

1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

I attacked the core support today. It was pretty wrinkled up at the bottom. I chopped off the bottom where the majority of the damage was and replaced it with some square tube.



I should get my new clutch tomorrow too.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

Here's a couple pics of my upper intake mounting thingy's.





And here's a big brass nut... one of a pair I have!

1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

Still too hot to work outside on the pinto, but I got some indoor stuff done.


Got the egr tube to come out gracefully, and plugged it.



And I made a delete plate for the intake.



Then I got the intake rotated 90 degrees.





I plan to port match the upper and lower, but I ran out of gumption for the day.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

I didn't get as much done today as I had hoped. The heat today was whoopin' my... uhm ... fanny? But I did make some progress.

The shifter hole is done.




And the firewall seam is welded and rough ground, still needs to be flap wheeled a little.




My little clark/tweco hybrid, and the german section.

1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

I got the motor and trans. pulled back out. Now comes the fun part... really building it!

Tomorrow I let the sparks fly. Going to weld up the firewall, and gusset the corners a little. Patch the fender well, and put the access panel in. Put some stitches in here and there, just cause it's a good time to. I'm going to fill all the misc. holes I won't be using and doing some core support mods.

I found that the cowl area seam, covered by the fender, was needing some love too. Going to clean up the whole area then re-caulk and paint while I'm in there.

I still need to go to the yard, but that will have to wait till after our little heat wave passes. Still need my clutch too. I may have to just do the whole ebay thing. Ugh.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

I think I finally have the right heater fan motor ordered. I'm still not sure how it turned into an ordeal.

I have about everything I needed to mock up and make holes/bends/alterations done. Next I'll pull her back apart and do all the welding.

Still haven't got my radiator supports replaced, but I haven't found a rad. I want yet.

Is there a resource to reference ford drive shaft data? I need 45.5" to clear the rear yoke and set in place.

I may have to give up on getting a centerforce clutch any time soon as well. Maybe my parts guys are slacking, but they're not finding anything for me. Those spec clutches have some good reviews, but I've never laid into one myself. And they're not on sale either. I have about a week to figure it out.

The suns coming, and I want to go fast!
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

Keep in mind also that these guys are using engines out of '87-88 Thunderbirds. The upper intake is shorter than those of earlier 2.3T cars (hence the notch in the valve cover). I had a bigger uphill battle fitting an earlier turbo engine in an early Pinto with a 7qt pan. That's why I still haven't sorted out the hood situation.

Quote from: 76hotrodpinto on June 03, 2015, 12:24:00 AM
I can't say that aluminum one doesn't sound spiffy. I'd like to find one, and discover it works. But I won't hold my breath. I've shortened a couple shafts before, but I had access to a jig that was made to hold them straight. I figure I'll check a few aerostars (and others)before I cut mine up. Wish I had my yard list together a couple weeks ago on 50% off day.

You won't find a suitable aluminum drive shaft under an Aerostar unless it's an AWD Aerostar. They weren't common to begin with and many have already been picked by Mustangers thinking they're getting a cheap Ford Motorsport equivalent(it's not). Fortunately just about anything out of a V8/V6 '79-04 Mustang will be about the right length. U-joints could be 1310 or 1330 depending on year and trim level.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

dianne

Quote from: Wittsend on June 03, 2015, 11:39:57 AM
The only major difference (swap wise) between a 71-73 and a 74 and up are the motor mounts and a reduced clearance at the radiator. An electric pusher fan easily solves the radiator clearance problem.  If you willing to set the engine 1/4"-1/2" higher and use a low profile hood scoop the clearance issues with the engine go away too.  All the other modifications necessary are needed for any year. So, while there are a few more issues with a 71-73 they can be resolved without too much effort.

Thanks and that's good to know. It looks like the EFI engine in the 79 is up too high also.
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Wittsend

Quote from: dianne on June 03, 2015, 07:24:34 AM
The more I read, the more I don't know if it's the best swap to do in the 73 wagon. But it is doable...
The only major difference (swap wise) between a 71-73 and a 74 and up are the motor mounts and a reduced clearance at the radiator. An electric pusher fan easily solves the radiator clearance problem.  If you willing to set the engine 1/4"-1/2" higher and use a low profile hood scoop the clearance issues with the engine go away too.  All the other modifications necessary are needed for any year. So, while there are a few more issues with a 71-73 they can be resolved without too much effort.

dianne

The more I read, the more I don't know if it's the best swap to do in the 73 wagon. But it is doable...
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

76hotrodpinto

I can't say that aluminum one doesn't sound spiffy. I'd like to find one, and discover it works. But I won't hold my breath. I've shortened a couple shafts before, but I had access to a jig that was made to hold them straight. I figure I'll check a few aerostars (and others)before I cut mine up. Wish I had my yard list together a couple weeks ago on 50% off day.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

I've heard talk of 45.5" Aerostar driveshafts, but but can't confirm it. The C-4 trans/6-3/4" rear driveshaft fit my T-5 trans/8" rear perfectly.  Didn't have to swap U-Joints or anything.

  I also saw on one of the car shows where the U-Joint mount and shaft were notched (as an alignment indicator). The shaft was then cut, the mounte liberated and re-welded. They said it worked well and didn't re-balance it.  My experience has been that if you search enough there is probably a driveshaft out there ready made for your application.  I have a '64 Strudebaker Daytona with a '92 GM 700R4 trans. And, wouldn't you know, a driveshaft from a '78 Buick Skylark 4 door fit just fine. So, with that in mind, here's to you "getting the shaft" - and I really mean that in the most considerate way.

76hotrodpinto

Uh-oh... new issue. I tried to fit the drive line, and it's about an inch to long. So I'm off to the yard to find something in the 45.5" range.

Been a little wet out there, not getting much done.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

I used the 'Bird trans mount because the Pinto 4-speed mount was totally different. It has about about as much movement as I would expect stock mounts to have. I can see movement in the shifter in my videos, but it wasn't noticeable while driving.

The old knock sensors that these engine came with are sensitive in a specific frequency range. It is possible to trigger them with impact, but I kind of doubt the engine rubbing on the frame would cause enough to do it, especially if there is not enough "slap" to cause very audible vibration.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

I'd agree that the trans mount feels too soft. It probably doesn't help that it is 42 years old either. I would guess that there are stiffer urethane mounts available. I'm guessing it is a pretty generic mount design given the 3 speed automatic mount bolted right to a 15 year newer 5 speed.

Regarding the knock sensor, can it be triggered by the engine vibrating on the suspension?  I had to notch the rubber on the (passenger side) rack mount and then indent the strap just to get a little clearance on the starter rear bushing. Then or the rearward strap bolt I had to grind off about half the heads thickness for clearance on the bottom of the starter. Even after that I still barely have any clearance. At times, under acceleration you can feel the engine vibrating the car as the engine twists in the mounts. And, it seems to me the power lies flat.

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: pinto_one on June 01, 2015, 05:35:17 PM
On my VSS sensor I took off my 90 bronco II and took the cable too, yes it does fit the pinto speedometer,

Brilliant! I'll put that on the next yard list. (is that on a specific model?)

On the egr, I agree it is aesthetically unpleasing. I would be happy to delete it for only that reason.

I am pleased with how much of the new wire and boxes I've been able to keep under the dashboard. I like the uncluttered look. All the relays and computers and such have their own rack up under there now. I managed to keep my glove box too.

Anyone with the wc t5 ever use a more stiff trans mount? The stock one seems just too soft for my taste.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: 76hotrodpinto on June 01, 2015, 01:34:56 AM
So that size would tie in the yolk that fit into the wc t5 to the mustangII driveline?

I don't know what size the '87-88 yoke is. I used the '86 'Bird yoke, which is a 1310. The stock Pinto rear is a 1310 (and so is the MII rear I got), but my drive shaft came from a much later Mustang that had 1330 ends.

QuoteI'm having a hard time not buying a rotated intake and going with a front mount intercooler. The only issue I'm concerned with, is the egr tube. If I delete it, will it have an adverse affect on my motor, or the computers ability to run it correctly? I have the pinto alt. bracket installed, and it's just saying"front mount intercooler... front mount intercooooler. ..".

You and me both.


Except in my case I've already decided to do it. Plus side is that it will help everything fit under the stock hood.

Deleting the EGR won't cause anything to go haywire. The ECU will always report a trouble code pertaining to an EGR fault, but it won't cause a measurable change in how the engine runs. The ECU will pull timing when it detects knock (that you can't hear) as long as the knock sensor is still there. Many report that too much timing gets pulled causing the power to nose-over noticeably and yeah it can, but it's it's keeping things together and is really fairly transparent given the state of technology at the time.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

pinto_one

On my VSS sensor I took off my 90 bronco II and took the cable too, yes it does fit the pinto speedometer,

76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

Wittsend

I deleted my EGR and can't say I've had any adverse affects from it. That said, I haven't run without it much (my Pinto sees maybe 500 miles a year).  My reason for deleting it was not functionality. It was more so that it freed up a lot of space and aesthetically looked better.  Some have wondered if it would increase combustion chamber temperatures. At least audibly I can't tell that pinging and detonation is present.

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: 65ShelbyClone on May 30, 2015, 05:32:17 PM
The type of u-joint for mating different yoke sizes is called a combination u-joint. The most likely one you would need is a 1310/1330 combination and they are widely available from many manufacturers.

So that size would tie in the yolk that fit into the wc t5 to the mustangII driveline?

I'm having a hard time not buying a rotated intake and going with a front mount intercooler. The only issue I'm concerned with, is the egr tube. If I delete it, will it have an adverse affect on my motor, or the computers ability to run it correctly? I have the pinto alt. bracket installed, and it's just saying"front mount intercooler... front mount intercooooler...".
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

You might be better off using a cable and VSS from another car like an '87-93 Mustang. They used a cable for the speedo and had a separate VSS for the EFI/cruise control that it fit into on the trans end. I just don't know if the speedo end would fit the Pinto cluster nor if the pulses per revolution is the same.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/pyi-speedsensor-8793.html

The type of u-joint for mating different yoke sizes is called a combination u-joint. The most likely one you would need is a 1310/1330 combination and they are widely available from many manufacturers.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: Wittsend on May 29, 2015, 11:13:15 AM
The removed panel look very similar to what I did. I used a little Bondo to blend the new panel. I was apprehensive to do so, but 7 years later nothing had cracked or melted.

  How is your clearance on the boost control actuator? I curved my panel downward and I still barely have any clearance.

I'm actually going patch it back in flat and flush, but from the frame, up to about 5"-6", I'm going to fab an access panel that can be pulled from the wheel side. Just through the assembly process, I decided this is a must. No clearance issues with my planned panel fitting.

The hood... well I'm just glad I have a crappy hood with a patch over an old air cleaner hole to work with, cuz I'ts getting another hole too.

I have the wiring all in place and ready to pull back out to tape and sleeve for final install. Got the exhaust tied in to my previous 2.5 system.

My clutch is on back order though. Centerforce is on sale right now, so shelves are sparse. I Got a new heater motor, but it's not what was supposed to be.

Do any of you know who makes u-joints for building mix and match drivelines? And who makes this speedo T for a wc t5?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

Everything on the turbo side is effectively interchangeabl e with the turbo/manifold/intercooler from an SVO (only ever equipped with a T3), so I think any difference in orientation would be from the T3's larger compressor housing.

Stock '87-88 'Birds make full boost by ~2200-2400rpm in higher gears, so I would expect 2400-2800 in a lighter Pinto with shorter tires and/or more gear.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

That is true. You can rotate the turbo intake housing around and move it a bit..., but then that throws off the alignment with the intercooler.  To that end I feel I have some premature wastegate bleed from doing so. I can get full boost, but I think the exhaust is slipping by on the way to getting there.  I should probably just cut a notch so I can set it where it needs to be and stop trying to be so "cute" with my dedicated (but movement restricted) are I fabricated for it.

I also have a feeling the 87-88 T/C's probably had the turbo mounted lower to make room for the intercooler. But, not having anything to compare to it is only a guess.

65ShelbyClone

What's ironic is that the smaller IHI turbo you guys are running has less clearance than the larger T3 that I'm using which has a larger wastegate actuator. The difference is that the T3's WGA is tucked between the turbo and engine.

In fact, I think it would have been unnecessary to cut up the inner fender of my car. Would have saved a lot of work...
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

The removed panel look very similar to what I did. I used a little Bondo to blend the new panel. I was apprehensive to do so, but 7 years later nothing had cracked or melted.

  How is your clearance on the boost control actuator? I curved my panel downward and I still barely have any clearance.


76hotrodpinto

Got the alternator bracket shaved and mocked up.



I got the t5 installed and the clutch cable run. Other than drilling the cross brace for the trans. mount and opening up the shifter hole a skoash, it was an easy fit. I am going to ad some more sheet metal to the back end of the shifter hole, to center it back around the shifter mounting plate.




1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.