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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

blow by

Started by bad bean, September 21, 2014, 10:51:08 PM

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amc49

WAS ENGINE BORED FOR OVERSIZE PISTONS??? Then MUST have been honed or totally messed up there. You CANNOT competently assemble motors and not know if hone done/not done if rings are changed, death lies there and totally unacceptable. The start of a major FU. Not trying to be an butt or insult anyone, but it needs to be said. I would be dogging the person who did the machine work there for more information. If not bored at all then you get into the nightmare of what kind of condition the cylinder walls were in to begin with, not knowing if honed just doubles that nightmare with all kinds of bad possibility. The rings (especially moly, even worse if double moly) MUST have correct break-in wall finish or they are junk as soon as started up and run five minutes. You don't get another chance after that without new rings/walls.

There will be no exact compression number since cam timing alone advance/retard can greatly affect that, all I know is true 12/1 needs well over 200 psi, I'd be expecting like 220-230+ on a well sealed motor. Even more (250+) if the motor truly setup to get the advertised compression, i.e., decked correct for the application and proper cc head/head gasket thickness, the compression can range off a full point by simply throwing in pistons that say they are this or that number, not nearly that simple. Catalog advertised compression numbers are worthless without the motor set up to spec called for there.


74 PintoWagon

Different type rings require different hone machinist should have asked what rings you were using?, if water was 240 cylinder walls were hotter, a comp test should tell.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

bad bean

No certain hone done. Motor did get warm during break in 240 degrees, fan had quit for some odd reason.

74 PintoWagon

Was the cylinders honed for the particular ring type??, maybe cylinders got a little hot on break in and some rings distorted seen that a few times..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

bad bean

The rings are 1/16,1/16,1/8.:-hydraulic lifters.I did not check piston to wall.something that might be my problem.would I not hear some skirt .slapping.maybe not .

bad bean

Motor work done by others, I put it together. I am not professional builder but have put many motors together. Ring gap is 18-20.I put rings at top and second are over pin 180 from each other oil ring is at 11 and 7 o'clock. Motor runs good plugs a little sutty but that could be cold plugs or only driveway running. I have only drove it around the block. It's not tagged yet to really put time on motor but won't to get bugs out first. Someone said to run and put rubber glove at pcv. Haven't done that yet. Still not sure if gauge was wrong will do test again to be sure. Just hoping to find solution without having to year it down. Not sure if I'll have time if can't find problem. Thanks guys looking for any input.

65ShelbyClone

Testing it at operating temp isn't going to tell you anything new.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

bad bean

Should I run motor till 180 degrees, going to pull several test checking o ring. How much psi with 284/544 110 lobe separation.

65ShelbyClone

Did you try a wet compression test too? Add about a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder and if compression comes up substantially, then ring seal is a problem.

I would expect to see at least 180psi with your build, cold or not.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

For sure I would use a screw in gauge. They typically have a hose. I position the hose in a way I can see the gauge when cranking. Depending on the engine it takes 3-6 revolutions to get a full compression reading. Watch the gauge and see when it stops rising. It won't go higher.  Get the right gauge (if you haven't already) and do the test again.

Assuming the rings are the issue, it would seem that the plugs would show evidence of oil fouling or contamination.  And I guess this is what is baffling.  You have very low compression, but no smoking.   You have evidence of seals and gaskets weeping, but can't detect an abundance of crank case pressure unless you "get on it."

  Did you build the engine yourself,  or did someone build it for you. If you built it, what is you background and experience? What grit did you use for the wall finish? Was a hone plate used. What was the piston to wall clearance. I'm assuming forged pistons - they require more clearance that need to be warm to work properly. What is the ring width and end gap?  This would all be helpful to to getting to the bottom of the problem.

If it is truly a blow by issue then something is wrong with: Piston to wall clearance, piston rings - upside down, or broken, wall finish that damaged the rings.

If it is simply a crankcase pressure issue then somewhere the engine is not venting the crankcase properly.  A thought comes to mind.  What are the valve clearances (or are they hydraulic)?  I've heard of improperly set valves that never seat and the potential exists that pressure (possibly) could be going up the valve stems.

amc49

It very easily can be. The gauges and getting them to seal properly to get repeat numbers over and over can be problematic, why you always pull multiple tests. Numbers varying are an indicator of doing something wrong. Done right the numbers will fall in line pretty much. You crank until gauge quits moving on every cylinder, not a certain number of spins on each. Lower reading cylinders take more spinning but the numbers will still not come up, telling you something wrong. You repeat to verify it. I even go so far as to tear down the setup, i.e., unscrew the gauge and then screw it back in again, the sealing o-ring sometimes does not seal, a repeat can show you that as well. I keep extra o-rings on hand, they tear up easy doing that.

bad bean

Just realized that motor has to be at 180 or above correct not just run for a few moments maybe the person doing test is problem.c guess that was my problem.

amc49

Motor is dead, engines with less than 100 psi will never run correctly, not enough heat (from compression) generated to keep plugs running clean. The limit we used when I built engines was 100 psi, you need well over 200 if cam timing like said and 12/1 compression. Afraid you got a serious issue there.

Forget the d-mn car for a bit if facing heart surgery, or at least let what will be be, it ain't worth the extra stress I'm tellin' ya. I had double bypass and did that, you gotta give it all up to realign your head for it. Enjoy working on the car, not turn it into a millstone.

Assuming you did compression test correctly..........warm engine and throttle held wide open while spinning engine with ALL plugs out of it and using a decent screw-in gauge, crap push-in compression gauges cause a LOT of unnecessary trouble. Do more than one spin on each cylinder as backup, I usually do at least three.

A small possibility that you have washed cylinder walls down enough with raw fuel to kill compression, I've heard of it but don't necessarily buy the idea. My view is that if oil cut back that much the engine will scar the walls anyway to make permanent damage. I've heard other skilled guys talk of it though, that the engine can lose almost all compression to then get it back later and run fine, the part I have trouble with but you never know.......................

bad bean

Just a update on motor build.to start eagle crank and rods,trw piston, comp cam hydraulic flat tapper 284/544, comp valve springs, comp lifters, aluminum heads 205/160 ss valves, parker funnel web intake 7.5"tall Holley carb 650 double pumper.motor break in normal run time 20 minutes@2500rpms.no leaks at driveway running.only when getting it out on

Wittsend

Is there any possibility that gas worked its way into the crankcase at some point and then ignited causing a spike of pressure that caused the seals and gaskets to leak?  Once I did a compression check with the plugs out and the wires dangling. The car was jacked in the front and that caused the float bowls to over run. Gas ran past the rings and accumulated in the crankcase - as well as shooting out the spark plug hole.

At some point the dangling wire lit the external fuel in a WOOF! And about a second later BANG!!! The crank case vapor went off. I had the valve covers just placed, but not bolted. Everything flew and it was all quite startling.

bad bean

Motor not smoking. pulling this motor is going to be frustrating.things not going well, waiting on heart transplant and building motor has me sick at the stomach.

bad bean

Cam is 240/246@.50 110 lobe separation.one cylinder was at 75 psi.not sure if gauge was any good AutoZone rental.when running just pulling the pcv out of cover it has a slight pump of air just enough to feel.you made mention of head gasket.not getting oil in water, water in oil or plug Fouling with oil or water.having one heck of time with this build.

Wittsend

Not sure what you should be seeing given your cam, but that "seems" low. Is your 284 duration gross or @ .050?  In a gas powered engine there is a limit to cylinder pressure. As you get a cam with more duration you both increase overlap (typically - but not always) and have valve events occurring earlier.  All that tends to lower cylinder pressure hence the need to increase the compression ratio to compensate.  How much pressure you get at cranking speeds as opposed to operating speeds could also factor in.  I assume they are all at 90PSI? That kind of rules out a damaged head gasket leaking into the intake valley.  You speak of leaking seals and gaskets..., is there smoke too?

I've never built engines such as yours. Hopefully AMC49 or others with this type experience will chime in.  But, if you want my guess I'm still thinking rings.  All the air should enter and exit the manifolds, not wind up in the crank case. The only other option would seem to be a clogged exhaust system and lots of exhaust valve stem clearance.

Do you see the actual pressure, or only the results of it. Remove the PCV hose, but make sure it is still attached to the valve cover, crankcase or wherever you have the other end of the hose attached. Hold a rubber glove around the hose and run the engine. Use care because it might rupture.  Report back what happened to the glove and how fast.

Reeves1

Way low.
Pull it & tear it down before you damage it beyond repair.
Gaskets are cheap.

bad bean

Checked compression psi not sure but 90 psi was what it read.that seems light for that motor unless rings are not seating.not sure that it's not leaking at the valve and could that cause the blow by.just stumped at this point.

bad bean

Info on motor so we all have the same thoughts.306ci, 12.1 piston,284/544cam,aluminium heads with 205/160,parker funnel web intake, Holley 650 double pumper.trans with 3500 stall, reared 5.38 gears.thrust turbo mufflers 2 ft off collector.I'm going to do compression check to see if all's well on that end.Will report findings.just didn't want to rebuild again.car only going to run to some shows and strip few times.guys I want to thank you for things I'm learning here.just looking for way out before rebuild on fresh motor.

Wittsend

...Or broken piston rings on install. Do a compression test (or leak down test if you have that available) and report back.

amc49

Crankcase evacuation will not work. It has to have a sealed up engines with reversed seals, I also ran no valve stem seals at all on mine as you stick the valves in the guides when it works right. Exhaust alone won't get it there, the exhaust has too little effect and only works past about 3K rpm. There is ZERO evac below that. You balance the no exhaust flow with intake too, the intake covers low rpm and exhaust takes up when the intake vacuum drops. Only works though with crank end seals reversed, they leak like hell in normal position since they were made to seal pressure not suction like that. Under suction it's like no seal there at all. Full evac like that demands short exhaust system, almost impossible to do it with full to rear of car exhaust, the stackup of gases stops the venturi effect in pipe. It works best on open header but I drove street cars around with it and simple header mufflers only and was able to keep crankcase at around 10-15 inched Hg most of the time. Everything's gotta be perfect to do it though.

What else could be pumping air? Dead cylinder walls passing lots of gases around side of piston. Hole melted or punched in piston from detonation if ran pump gas with 12/1 compression, impossible, the motor will last five minutes like that.

bad bean

That is my issue, I did pull breather and pcv couldn't tell if pumping air. Oil was hitting header so smoke was coming off them. I'm looking to run evac system instead of pcv.I read that mufflers create problem. They are thrust turbo. Will installing evac not help to stop crank pressure or reduce it as well as sealing rings against wall.

Wittsend

For all the wonders of the Internet sometimes there are things that are hard to find pictures of, and valve cover baffles seem to be one of them. Here is an article that shows baffles that have been cut down, so it will take some creative thinking to imagine what they originally looked like. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/509142-build-your-own-valve-cover-baffle.html

To some degree this post seems to be running off track. Your issue is crankcase pressure that is weeping oil at the gaskets and seals - correct?  If your PCV system was sucking oil up directly (yes, that would increase crank case pressure) but you would also be pumping oil into the intake and fowling plugs severely.  And, I didn't read that as your problem.

As I said above run the engine with as many openings as you can. PCV hose removed, filler cap removed (sorry, it can get messy) and see if there is excessive pressure coming out. If there is then I'd still have to say it is a ring issue. I say that because what else would be pumping air???

bad bean

Valve covers don't have that for pcv or breather. What is a way to correct it or just buy new covers.

Wittsend

The valve cover will have a baffle (usually a piece of metal, sometimes stuffed with a steel wool like substance). The purpose is to prevent direct oil splashing of a PCV that sits in the valve cover. Sometimes they are removed for rocker arm clearance.

bad bean

Not sure about the baffle can you give me little more info. Guess I'm not that smart about baffles :-*

amc49

You cannot run pcv straight out of engine unbaffled if it is in an oiled spot, it will blow oil right into intake. The baffle is usually at/under the pcv takeoff point wherever it may be as long as the OEM point.

Bevel on ring CAN go on the bottom side if a reverse torsional twist ring...........but usually those are on second ring. The dot is the thing there. Or a letter or somesuch.

Moly rings need to finish block with a fairly fine hone finish, too rough will eat the moly out almost instantly. Bore quality figures in there greatly too, it is getting so hard to find competent people to run boring bars any more. Here in north Texas they used to be coming out my ears, now I'd be terrified if I had to get it done. Last two I had done were both messed up by those who talked a whole lot more than they worked and high dollar shops with big reps too.

bad bean

Rings had bevel on top ring and second ring had dot.Not trying to mask just looking for advice before having to tear it down. Pcv is just hose from carb to pcv no baffle. I'm running high compression about 12.1, cam is 284/544 hydraulic flat. Intake is Parker funnel web.