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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

A 1972 turbo swap adventure

Started by 65ShelbyClone, July 20, 2014, 12:39:02 PM

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65ShelbyClone

'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

65ShelbyClone

Remember the spaghetti monster inhabiting the front of my car in that last picture? Well, it's not there anymore...

...it's inside now.  ::)


Fortunately most of those wires are going to get shortened by about four feet. I got fed up and decided to omit the knock sensor and pigtail completely until a later date. I don't yet have an amplifier/signal conditioner for it anyway.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

65ShelbyClone

My battery is going in the same place. The difference is that I'm using a small group 51R that won't fit in the TC tray. There is no foot on the battery for the tray or hold-down to grab, so I have to either buy one of these: http://optimatrays.com/viewitem.php?type=tray&id=39, copy it, or roll my own.

The TFI module is going to stay put. With my setup it won't be doing anything except sending a low-current tach signal to the ECU. The ECU then has an IGBT coil igniter that I added so it can fire the coil directly. It would have been easier to let the TFI module do the heavy lifting as designed, but I want to be able to completely cut spark for rev limiting. The TFI module has a fail-safe feature where it still fires the coil at base timing if it is cut off from the ECU. Pulling the SPOUT connector does exactly that for checking base timing.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

"Pulling the trigger on the hole saw felt exactly like pulling the trigger on the welder when the engine mounts went in."

Isn't that the truth!

Not sure where you intend to put the battery, but the T/C battery tray (with a little trimming) fits nicely in the drivers front if you move the washer tank.  I used some PVC pipe on the nubs on the bottom of the tray to carry support down to the frame rail. I used the T/C tank and mounted it in the drivers wheel well.

Did you do the remote TFI with the heat sink? Under the hood real estate goes fast, but I found space forward of the drivers side hinge.

Thanks for the update.  I always enjoy projects that are moving forward.

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

65ShelbyClone

Are we having fun yet?


Survey says: not really.

Pulling the trigger on the hole saw felt exactly like pulling the trigger on the welder when the engine mounts went in.


I went with a smaller 1.25" grommet scavenged from another harness in the 'Bird. The main 10awg EFI power wire goes through the little hole in the middle and will be routed to the main relay and on to the fuse/distribution block. About 2/3 of the wires are run into the cabin already, but I didn't get a photo.

Fun fact: there are about 6.5 quarts of oil in the pan and still nothing shows on the stick.  :o

Things left to do before it can fire:
- run some more wires
- connect heater hoses
- make high current cable for 3G alternator
- make a heap of soldered connections in the MegaSquirt DB-37 plug, probing and checking each circuit as I go
- build a battery tray and hold-down.
- install negative battery cable.
- make new TFI coil bracket to fit the original coil's hole pattern.
- install electric fan

Things left to do before it's relatively finished and/or drivable:
- make a gauge console and install tach/boost/temp/pressure/volt gauges and shift light and bolt the MegaSquirt inside with a permanent DB-9 bulkhead for easy tuning access. Still debating on whether or not to outfit the ECU with an FTDI serial-to-USB adapter. Probably won't.
- install the 8in rear end
- redo the upper intake arrangement so I can close the hood without cutting a huge hole in it.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

65ShelbyClone

The ECU is a MegaSquirt-II v3.0 standalone, so the circuits unfortunately do not apply to Ford EEC-IV systems like yours. I had to make changes so it has spark and fuel table switching on the fly, launch control, flat shift, boost control, fan control, tach output, and a shift light.

And yeah, the cam is a Ranger roller. Got it cheap and the old slider with 214,000mi has good patterns, but advanced wear. The RR may go in when I get rid of the upper intake.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

What are the ECU mods?  Is there a link somewhere regarding the changes? Not sure with a LA-3 they would be applicable to me, but I'm still curious.  I assume the cam is a Ranger/Mustang roller?

So many Turbo conversions seem to "lag" (pun intended - but not). It is encouraging to see yours "spooling" all the time.

65ShelbyClone

Thanks.  :) The elbow is offset to leave room for a second one in case a dedicated vent was necessary later. The filler cap already is fortunately.

A few more. This came in today:


And I'm finished modifying this to have all the extras I want:


My plan now is to dismantle the whole engine/ECU harness and re-route it how I want through a smaller grommet.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

65ShelbyClone

Ended up making a bash plate and mounting the pump under a back seat.


And got this:


which will go here:
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

dick1172762

Just remembered something about gas tanks from the past. I've fixed several tanks that had pin holes in the bottom of the tank by turning the tank upside down and soldering the holes shut. The tank's solder very easy and never re leak. Point is, if the tanks are galvanize coated how does the solder stick? Maybe some other coating is used. And when was the last time you saw a piece of galvanized metal that was rusty?
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

65ShelbyClone

I did consider sealer, but didn't think the tank was really worth a $50 experiment. Besides, the tank is back in already and I ain't pulling it back out! There is going to be a clear filter on the pump inlet so I can monitor crud.

Instead of modify the stock vent to be a return, I made a billet hat with an NPT elbow and barb.


I also started tearing the rear interior apart to route the pump wiring, relay, and inertia switch. That's about it for today.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

Have you considered any of the tank sealers?  I have heard it both ways where some have had no issues and others say it came off in sheets (attributed to the alcohol in the fuel). Never tried it myself. Anyone with good results to report?

65ShelbyClone

I put off dumping the tank until this evening in favor of letting it simmer all last night and today. There were still patches of crud, but it was almost all soft and fairly easy to scrape off.

The whole upper 3/4 of the tank looked like the darkest spots here.  :o


A little lot of elbow grease with this:


Resulted in 99% of the interior looking like this:


Pretty sure the light gray parts are the original galvanize, so it looks like the process doesn't remove it, which is good. Overall it's not great, but I think it will buy me some time until a better tank shows up. Tomorrow it goes back in and the rear plumbing can finally start.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

For the curious... - this is the rust the process pulled off a 1/2" round file.  The piece of angle iron looked like the cleaner sections before I started.

65ShelbyClone

It's definitely outside because the tank is filled to the brim and foams over a bit.

There was positive progress with baking soda, but boy, washing soda is a different animal. It looks different when dry, acts differently when dissolving, is rougher on my hands, and is doing a number on the sacrificial anode. I'll dump the tank this evening and see how the inside looks.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

dick1172762

Do this process out side as the gas given off is VERY flammable. Not good for the lungs too.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Wittsend

I recently used the battery charger and washing soda (sodium carbonate - also available at pool stores) to remove rust from a file. It works exceptionally well because there is no abrasion to the file teeth.  I found that the response of the process could be varied considerably by the distance between the file and the angle iron I was using to attract the rust.  I say that because I'm thinking that varying the location of the rebar might help. Perhaps rubber hose on the ends to space it close to, but not in contact with the tank. Then just move it an inch every so often.

Anyway, it is a total trip to watch the process.  Wish I had known about it years ago. My lungs would sure have appreciated it.  I've also considered plugging holes, filling floorboards with the solution and then spacing an iron plate. I'm looking forward to 65SC's outcome on the tank internals.

65ShelbyClone

The only new replacements I can find are from Spectra and the lowest price I have seen is ~$225 OTD. With a new sender it's closer to $300.  >:(

I figure that I have nothing to lose and everything to gain by trying to revive the old one.

Quote from: Reeves1 on September 29, 2014, 09:39:00 PM
Interesting....had never seen or heard of cleaning a tank like this.

Would it be possible to start a topic on this in another section ?

ie: How to clean a gas tank

Does it just attack rust ? Or inside coating as well ?

I haven't found a straight answer on whether it takes off coatings (like the tank's galvanize) or not. Once the rust on your steel part is completely converted back into iron, the process effectively stops. The sacrificial anode might still continue to corrode.

There are endless topics on it spread across the net. Search for "electrolytic rust removal washing soda" or "rust removal washing soda" or something with those key words. I zapped some baking soda in the oven for an hour a 400°F  to make washing soda, which is allegedly more effective. I'll find out tomorrow.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

dick1172762

It will remove some, break loose some, and neutralize some. Most will be loose and require some form of help in coming fully loose. Wire brush if you have a tiny arm and can reach in side the tank, or as someone on here said, a length of chain, lug nuts, rocks, just some way to break it loose. BIG problem is that as it dry's, rust will rear its ugly head and start the same ole process all over. Tank would have to be re sealed at once or you might end up with a tank in worse shape than when you started. With new tanks cheap (up north anyway) I don't think the time you will spend along with the cost of the tank sealer will be worth it. It might if you could come up with a cheap sealer, but as Dandy Don use to say to Howard, "if and buts were peanuts and nut, oh what a merry Xmas we would have.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Reeves1

Interesting....had never seen or heard of cleaning a tank like this.

Would it be possible to start a topic on this in another section ?

ie: How to clean a gas tank

Does it just attack rust ? Or inside coating as well ?

65ShelbyClone

It was a judgement call on that one. Make a $15 trip to town to get washing soda or use 25¢ worth of what I had on hand and get it rolling a few hours sooner. All I could really find about washing soda is that it is more caustic and works faster. I've used baking soda before with satisfactory results.

While the tank is percolating, I'm trying to decipher a wiring diagram and figure out where to pull some 12v power that's hot in start + run for the EFI. What a convoluted thing.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

dick1172762

What a great idea!!!! BTW you should use the soda made for laundry in the yellow box. Works much better.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

65ShelbyClone

Old float:


New old float found in the parts stash and custom pickup sock. Base is Teflon, screen and clamps are stainless. Not nearly as fine a mesh as the original, but there is going to be a filter between the tank and pump anyway.


Barnacles:


After some (tons of) tedious work with a small wire cup brush and a pick:


My attempt to fix the problem: 11gal of water, a cup of baking soda, a piece of rebar, and a battery charger:




Hopefully rust isn't what's holding the tank together.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

65ShelbyClone

Thanks, that all helps a lot. :)

I got done dropping the tank a few minutes ago and noticed an access plate in the spare tire well. That might be a possible wiring route or wherever the fuel sender wires come from. I'll know more in the daylight.

The tank is growing some barnacles inside, BTW. Someone also replaced the sender float with a sealed(?) clear plastic lawnmower fuel filter.  ???
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

I ran the Pink/black fuel pump wire down the floor of the interior - passenger side of the car. At the rear wheel well I ran it behind the plastic.  My car is a wagon and at the very back is a 1/2" hole wires pass through (and, there is similar on the other side).  There is a carpet finisher plate (steel) at the rear just before the hatch. I ran the wire out the hole, across the back under the finisher plate to the rear drivers side. It is here it connects to the fuel shut-off switch. On a sedan I assume the wire would just be run across the back of the trunk.

The wire then goes into the similar hole on the drivers side and drops down into the rear quarter panel body cavity. There is a rubber grommet with wires coming out of the cavity (under the car) for the fuel sender. I poked a hole in the grommet and drew the wire through (it fits snugly). From there I wire tied it down with the sender wire to the pump which I mounted forward of the axle and externally just behind the rear seat. The pump is a??? late 80's/early 90's F-Series external pump.

Thus, I never had to drill a hole and had an air tight connection where the wire exited the internals of the car.  For my fuel return I drilled a hole in the sender, put a piece of steel tubing in and soldered it. Probably not the best idea because the electrical connection melted and leaked (JB Weld to the rescue) and if I ever need to replace the sender I'm doing it all over again (but at the time it seemed like a good idea and retained the tank vent).

The fuel lines were the TC plastic lines and I used one of those barbed  repair pieces to connect as needed.  I know I preach it all the time, but this is where having the donor car makes all the difference.  I mean just right here you have the harness, the safety switch, the fuel filter clamp and the fuel lines.



65ShelbyClone

Quote from: Wittsend on September 25, 2014, 10:16:18 AM
Did you cut or bend the shifter at all? I did both to my T/C shifter and it is still longer than yours. Is yours a Mustang shifter?

The shifter stick wasn't modified and I think it is original. This one is very similar to what was used '87-93 Mustangs. although it's from an '86, it looks very much like this one from the '87 sale literature: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/65ShelbyClone/Public/1972%20Pinto/23L-turbo-engine_zps8605a01b.jpg. What's curious about that is the mechanical clutch linkage that appears to be direct-pull. For those unfamiliar, 1987-88 Turbo Coupes went into production with a hydraulic clutch.

QuoteHow does the motion feel?

Notchy and loud with a mushy isolator like a typical T5.  ;) I'll go to a solid stick mount when I get a short shifter that has adjustable stops.

QuoteIt has been a while, but my recollection was that when I angled my shifter back as you did (I actually made a slot for adjustment) my arm and the transmission were not "at one with each other."  It confounded me as it is all the same flat plate transferring the action, but when I went to a vertical bolt orientation it worked much better.

My shifter arm has the obvious z-bend and it's twisted toward the driver side by about 20° so it doesn't align with...really anything. Putting the stick and shifter on the same side of the plate made it slightly more centered over the tunnel.

Overall the bracket moved the shifter centerline back about 1 7/8", to the right by ~5/8", and angling the stick back gained another 2-3".

Quote
Your lower mounted alternator works well. My upper hose must cross over the top of the alternator and I have a plastic anti chaffing shield on it. The price I pay for using the factory '88 harness. 

Since I'm still using the standard 17" radiator, I found that the high-mounted alternator pulley and belt cross right in front of the radiator inlet. Back to the passenger-side until I can track down a low-mount driver's-side bracket pair. I plan to install A/C eventually and put the compressor on the passenger side, so that alternator will have to move.

QuoteAny date you anticipate that it will be ready to go?

About two months ago. :o

Mid-October is what I'm hoping for. The big hurdles now are plumbing the fuel system wiring everything for EFI. I have been avoiding dropping the tank to drill the vent restrictor for fuel return and replace the filler neck grommet.

On that note, how did you run your fuel pump wiring? I have the whole FP harness from the 'Bird and I'm wondering if I should run it through the cabin and out a hole in the hatch floor(like the 'Bird) or route it under the car somehow.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

Did you cut or bend the shifter at all? I did both to my T/C shifter and it is still longer than yours. Is yours a Mustang shifter?  How does the motion feel? It has been a while, but my recollection was that when I angled my shifter back as you did (I actually made a slot for adjustment) my arm and the transmission were not "at one with each other."  It confounded me as it is all the same flat plate transferring the action, but when I went to a vertical bolt orientation it worked much better.  BTW, my son is a machinist and make R/C car parts on the side. He makes parts out of 7075 and yes, it is "tough" - and cost more too.

Your lower mounted alternator works well. My upper hose must cross over the top of the alternator and I have a plastic anti chaffing shield on it. The price I pay for using the factory '88 harness.  Any date you anticipate that it will be ready to go?

65ShelbyClone

Has it been a week already?

Got an upper radiator hose that (generally) fits:


If anyone is wondering, it's for a '74 2.3 without A/C and without extra cooling. The same hose cross-refs to the lower one for an early '90s Toyota pickup V6 2WD.

And finished the shifter bracket made from scrap:





That 3/8" aluminum plate was tough too. May have been 7075.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.