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1978 bobcat 4speed shifter
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1977 Pinto Cruizin Wagon

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parting out 1975 & 80 pintos
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1980 Ford AM radio
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Many Parts Listed Below
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Various Pinto Parts 1971 - 1973

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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Flat spot with Holley 350 carb

Started by kerryann, April 17, 2014, 07:31:40 PM

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amc49

Good deal.

The power valve plug is ONLY FOR TESTING, I NEVER advocate leaving them out FYI. A major mistake, leaving it out severely curtails your tuning options and always compromises the carb setup. You plug only to do low speed easy driving to determine your idle, off-idle and cruise setups.

I personally never use any gap in pump cam, I want it on as instantly as I can get it, regardless of what the carb or the car. You will always have a spot in there where suddenly opening the throttle will drop vacuum unless very slowly doing it, the lag in pump shot just adds to any potential flat spot. Most of my experience though was with ball check valve in pump and not much with the silicone valve, the slight gap may be necessary to stop silicone valve from feeding as fuel bowl warms to hot. In my view the ball check taking a millisecond to seal made up for the gap so I didn't set with a gap. Any weight under shooter means less or no gap either. Again, takes time to override the weight.

You may be right with manifold vacuum, I've run into that as well vs. ported. Go by the engine and screw all the theory. Believe what your eyes and ears show you. Ported vacuum was developed simply to kill vacuum at idle to kill NOx emission, NOx raises greatly at any timing before TDC. Old emissions passing trick if failing NOx, you back timing down, car runs like crap of course, pass test and bring it back up again. Backing it down makes HC go up (when tuning the two always go opposite each other) but it can be brought down other ways. Try like 10 and 34-36, higher at idle helps any flat spots provided it doesn't ping. Your vac advance unit may determine your range. Since you're after curing a flat spot then set at idle and let top end power suffer if needed till you sort the flat spot out.


kerryann

thinking about it further i think the the transfer slots being open too much may be an issue here.  im going to check that first.

kerryann

it is the stock 1980 intake, not sure exactly which one it is.

i havent tried any different plugs yet.  it could probably stand a heat range colder

i welded up the factory ports on the header so cant do air/fuel unless i added a bung, didnt think id have to be that precise going by rough suggested guidelines for this swap that i read on this forum.

ive never had any luck with the power valve blocker on street cars, only on circle track stuff,  i see what youre saying though.  i will try setting idle screws with the vacuum gauge.  i did it starting at 1 1/2 (factory recomendation) and listened for increase in rpm,  seemed to like around 1 1/4,  i'll verify with the gauge this time.  would you ever this small of an engine like more than the 1 1/2 turns out?

i always tend to set idle speed lower than you probably  should, like the lope sound on a v8, im new to the 4 cyl world but always thought they liked a little more idle speed to stop the shake and vibration and make it a little easier on them off idle getting going. this assumption could be wrong.  we have no tach in the car but i could probably borrow a tach dwell.

accelerator pump shot timing has had an effect on the issue,  i suppose i should focus there, havent tried any bigger squirters yet.  tried a bunch of cams in both positions.  a friend thought maybe going to a 50cc pump might help.  ive tried the holley suggested .015" gap, no gap, 1/16" gap, has been best with slight gap right around the suggested .015"

the plugs were in the car when we bought it.  i was planning on replacing them once i got the carb right but i suppose i may need to get a set now to get an accurate reading.  i will check timing as well.  not sure what to set these motors to.  im used to setting total ith the chevy small blocks at 34-36.  i tried ported vacuum as well as manifold vacuum.  seemed better at manifold.  ive had it explained to me before that manifold vacuum is most beneficial to a street driven motor to have the advance at idle to keep temps down, while ported vacuum was an early emissions strategy to keep exhaust temps upand nothing more than that.  with that being said, what is acceptable initial timing if i run manifold vacuum and what is the number im shooting for total?

amc49

What intake used there?

Don't mess with the restrictors, if it occurs at low amounts of throttle then you are nowhere near the power valve open. If you can get it to hiccup while sitting in drive then have someone do it while watching the exhaust pipe for any possible puff of black smoke. If concerned about PV opening then plug the hole with commonly available plug and then test for the flaw again, but DON"T PUSH THE ENGINE HARD, you can damage it. It will drive at light load and low throttle though so you can test more. If plugged at least you know it's not PV. You can disable the accel pump as well and SLOWLY ramp rpm up to see if it does it. Which accel pump check valve in the fuel bowl under pump cover, the ball check or a silicone disk type? Has to do with how fast the accel pump activates.

You need to verify the timing, timing slow will make it flat spot. The plugs often cannot be read for a while until they color up, it doesn't happen instantly. Look up very high inside, they begin to color up high where the porcelain meets the steel first. You really need to know idle timing and total full all-out as well. The vacuum advance is closely hooked to that depending on which unit you have, it may or may not need to be manifold vacuum. If less vac adv, you use more initial timing lead if more vac adv you need less lead, the two are hooked together and have to add up to make sense on the total, why you need numbers of all of it. If you don't have enough timing you could easily be working on a carb with nothing wrong with it. 

Leaving carb where it is idle setscrew wise, pull the carb and look underneath to see how far up on the slots the throttle plates are, you are only supposed to be either just barely exposing the bottom of the slot or maybe .020" or so, if higher you are too rich then it goes super lean when you run out of transfer slot, think of it as mini-accelerator pump until both the shooter gets working. You don't have the mixture screws very far open which leads to believing  possibly too far up in the slot, a common mistake. The mixture screws are not set by turn amount, rather by vacuum, one may end up different from the other but if too far one circuit is clogged.

If truly right off idle most likely the transfer slots are too exposed. Drop the idle speed back down too low to get the slots right (while carb is off) and just test to see if the flat disappears, you can bring up idle speed in other ways later.

You can adjust pump cam to have a big space and then none at all and take careful note of what changes. Or bigger shooter vs. smaller and the same. The vacuum gauge WILL drop when the motor dies, normal, an effect not the cause.

If the exhaust manifold has an O2 port you can put an O2 in there to tell if rich/lean by using an A/F ratio gauge.

jeremysdad

That insulator looks cracked...have you tried a heat range colder?

Thanks for all the good info! Someone better versed in the 2.3 will be along shortly.

Welcome aboard! :)

kerryann

another picture

kerryann

hi, we have a 1980 pinto, 2.3, automatic.  42k original miles.  i did the holley 350 swap and also the ranger header.  we have the aluminum ford carb spacer under the carb and we also used the racer walsh power valve restrictors.  i read that good baseline jetting is 56-58, we went with 57 since i didnt have any 56s.  started with a 5.5 power valve as that was what i read to have the most success with this combo.  we have a flat spot off of idle through the mid range.  most noticeable when you ease into the throttle vs flat footing it from a stop,  once its on the main circuit it recovers and runs smooth.  the plugs are clean with slight white residue indicating we are pretty lean.  i tried many different pump cams and now have the orange in position 2 which gives quite a bit of pump shot and long duration.  went with a 25 squirter with the extensions to try and lengthen pump shot as well.  have idle mix screws set to 1 1/4 turn out.  i played with the accelerator pump timing and air gap on the lever, it helped initially but cant cure it.  we went to a 6.5 power valve to no avail and now today went to a 7.5.  no change.  ive attached a vacuum gauge, we have 15" in drive with brake on with motor hot.  this would indicate the 7.5 is right on the money.  driving around with the gauge i notice the flat spot occurs at part throttle once vacuum drops just about to zero, the car seems to flatten out and then recover. it is driveable but it bothers me that its not right.  im worried that the racer walsh restrictors are cutting the mid range fuel flow too much, i dont want to drill them and be stuck if it wasnt the right thing to do.  they will be fairly difficult to get back out as well. when installing i drilled the metering block, cleaned out burrs, and blew out chips with air.  we then pressed the inserts all the way in until they stopped.  hoping that was the right thing to do.  if anyone can help please let me know.

also vacuum advance is on full manifold vacuum, both catalytic converters are removed, smog pump is removed, pcv is hooked to port on the spacer.  valve cover has only a breather.  the kick down works as i should as well.  the only thing i have not done is put a timing light on it.  i have no reason to believe the timing is off as the car ran fine in stock configuration with the weber but it is worth checking.  ive attached some pictures of one of the plugs for reference.