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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Flat spot with Holley 350 carb

Started by kerryann, April 17, 2014, 07:31:40 PM

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amc49

The only way you'll know is to set the butterflies dead correct on the slots and then put carb back on and see where you are idle speed wise then work from there. How I start with any carb. I use 1 1/2 as a starting point on idle screws too. Where they end up can tell you if idle feed restriction is close or not. Both need to have an effect, if one does and one doesn't then indicator of something wrong in that circuit.

What speed is engine comfortable at idle wise, i.e., what cam in car, affects that greatly. OEM around 700-800, longer cam will be higher (up to 1500) and how those slots begin to cause trouble, the idle has to be set too high and gets into them.

Power valve vacuum value is usually one half what idle vacuum is, a good starting point.

Assuming accelerator pump is working well............

kerryann

that method of figuring out the power valve restriction size makes sense.  as for the idle transfer slot setting, i'll check it again, but ive tried it from as low of an idle setting to stay running all the way up to too fast to comfortably stop the car while in gear.  no change in flat spot.  this is without adjusting the idle mixtures screws.  i tried adjusting them as well without changing the idle speed screw.  I tend to try and leave the idle mix screws at or close to the baseline 1 1/2 turns out.  guess i should try setting them with a vacuum gauge.

one of the racer walsh restrictors is pressed in farther than the other.  There could certainly be a blockage somehwere in the wells like you said.  Im afraid that may be the problem whether the drilling caused it or something else.  im going to see if i can remove the restrictors and find anything.

amc49

My take on porting with the one inch adapter is that it is to help make up for the lack of depth, the short distance there makes for issues with fuel distribution, the throttle plate angles interfere with mixture getting to the other side of them since all fuel comes from one side of a 2 bbl. non-progressive carb until the boosters start up.

Just me though and I can't back it up........................LOL

amc49

You block the power valve while checking the main jet and NOT UNDER HEAVY POWER, you can fry motor doing it. The valve should not be opening when main system (boosters) start up, rather, somewhat after that. If you are getting the flat spot while driving around like normal cruise then problem is NOT the valve. Could be trash in a main well from the drilling or the brass insert in too far to make a restriction. Going to the full size restriction of a dead stock carb should not work either, they restrict them for a reason, it being too big for a four cylinder. They are usually up around .040"-.055", these will like around .020"+.

You end up with two main jet choices with a blocked PV, one is good driveability at cruise and low demand throttle and the other is high demand full throttle power. There will be a separate main jet that motor likes for both, then you figure the difference in cross section of the holes and that ends up being the power valve restriction size. The power valve supplies the difference in fuel between low demand and high demand requirements. The jet size the motor likes for full power will be too big for creeping around in slow driving and the motor will be too rich then. Why the system was created to begin with.

Think kickdown on an automatic transmission, power valve comes on about then, the demand for extra load. Maybe a wee bit sooner but not until then, it needs to be closed for clean normal light load driving. Why blocking it to test drive at low load is useful.

If the idle is still set to make the throttle plates go higher in the transfer slots it never will run right, the transfers should be barely showing like maybe .020" of the slot and no more when carb is pulled to look at that after normal idling speed has been set. Too high in slot makes for too rich an idle, you cut back on the screws to cure that but then when you increase throttle no fuel left for transition load because the high slot condition has used it already. So, too rich, then instantly too lean right around normal cruising spot. The entire lower rpm/load workings of the carb are set up based on that idle transfer slot relationship and many mess up there.

If an old carb can always have some sort of blockage in a metering block well. A few of the carbs they put idle feed restrictions on the tip of a long tube that presses into the well, if those block up the tip almost impossible to clean.



kerryann

up to 61s on the jets, that's stock jetting for  7448, i have a power valve blocker, i'll have to give it a try.  Yes it will probably need more jet to compensate, i think i have some low to mid 60s i can try.  also this intake is unported and i have the ACE adapter off ebay.  after reading through other posts some suggest porting with the short adapter.  This car is just a cruiser and were not looking to eek every bit of power out of it we can get, just smooth throttle response all through the range would be nice.  I plugged the injector holes with brass plugs.  My drilling and tapping job wasn't a precision job but they are tight and sealed up.

dick1172762

I would try it out with no power valve. Take an old one and remove the rubber, then melt solder into it. I've done them both way. You may need to put bigger jets in.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

kerryann

Back again, haven't been on here in awhile.  I finally got around to putting on the efi intake on the 1980.  Bought the nice billet cnc machined adapter to make it easy.  Installation of the new intake was a challenge getting the lower bolts in and out without removing the distributor but i managed.  I didn't realize until I went to put it in but the upper most bolt towards the front of the car doesn't match up (newer intake on older head).  I'm sure the rest of you that have done this swap have run into this.  if i hadn't got so far i would have considered drilling a new hole in the intake but i left it as is.  I figured missing just one won't cause a leak.  Actually when i removed the old intake that bolt and the one next to it had fallen out long before and were gone.

The car fired up and has a slightly different idle tone too it now but the flat spot is back and is worse.  The car makes plenty of power and is actually pretty quick with the new intake on it.  It just seems to be a really bad transition flat spot from idle circuit to main circuit.  I'm convinced that something is wrong with the power valve circuit, maybe something i didn't get out after drilling for the racer walsh restrictors, maybe something wrong in idle circuit, the main circuit seems to be spot on.  The carb makes no response to power valve change.  It does get better when warm but now it doesn't go away when hot.  I'm going to look for a fresh 7448 from some of my circle track friends and start over.  already have the restrictors but I wan't to try one without them first and see what the difference is.  Then I will see what I can figure out.  I am convinced this is purely a carburetor issue at this point so I will see what I can find out once I can get my hands on another carb.  The one on it was an old swap meet carb so who knows what its history is.

-ian

amc49


kerryann

ok, simple enough.  i was considering porting some of that lump off there but didnt know if it would hurt anything.  this motor is a 1980 so i would assume its the oval port right?

amc49

If head is oval port use oval port gasket, or any before 1982. If D port then '82 Fairmont or others later can work.

amc49

The original hole is sized right to run a drill bit up in there suited to the size needed (7/16" bit) for 1/4" pipe taps and use like socket head plugs there. Don't tighten real tight to avoid cracking and seal threads with something. That way you don't have to worry about welded holes warping the head flat. I'd port the plugs and the lump there a bit to smooth them into port.

74 PintoWagon

If it's never gonna be used for EFI again that's the way to do it..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

dick1172762

I drill them out / tap them / install pipe plugs. That's all.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

kerryann

put 61 jets in the carb.  this is stock recommended size for the 350 holley.  up from the 59s.  no change in flat spot. i think ive hit a wall with this particular carb on this intake setup.

i did get an efi intake from another circle track friend.  they collect them.  whats the best way to plug the injector holes on these?  just weld shut?  and also which intake gasket should i order to put this intake on?

amc49

Just joking of course...............torque cams are usually pretty small, by no cam I mean anything under .500" lift. My last post concerned flat tappet only, no roller.

74 PintoWagon

You're welcome Dick, I thought the same thing too when I got mine, you could compress 500lbs springs with that easy,lol..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

dick1172762

Got the valve spring tool and its built like its for use on an 18 wheeler. It'll be around a lot longer than I will. Thanks for the tip Art.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

74 PintoWagon

Quote from: amc49 on May 21, 2014, 07:21:29 AMYou got no cams there if flat tappet lasting that long,
Oh really!, Well, my 86 Toy(22R) I bought brand new didn't come with a roller cam, and when I rebuilt the motor in my 73 dually I put a Melling torquer(flat tappet) cam in it, I never said anything about race cams with a gazillion lbs of spring pressure.. And just FYI, I DO KNOW the difference between  roller and flat tappet cams....
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

STP took out the zinc as well. I bought several cans of the last zinc stuff they made. It is illegal as said to sell the zinc, it is the phosphate needed to carry it that has the EPA all in a tizzy. At the last at the parts store I saw an oil that O'Reilly claimed it could special order, Champion I believe. They advertised a lot of zinc, it's sellable with an 'off road use only' label on the can. The Valvoline specialty MOTORCYCLE oil has zinc as well or did, the high price. Motorcycles have to have it as the friction modifiers that replace the zinc commonly mess up motorcycle starter one way clutches and cannot be used. The smaller motorcycle market as well allows the sale of it. Or did anyway.

You got no cams there if flat tappet lasting that long, the big ones die if you don't break in with half the spring needed there. BTDT. We commonly left some of the spring off of them when breaking the big ones in, then put full spring on after done. The 16V engines Ford builds now have no spring pressure, you can push valves down by hand. Why the flat tappet lasts so long now with no resetting valves. You don't need to break in cams there at all even the hi-perf ones. People commonly change cams and don't even change the tappets running against the lobes.

74 PintoWagon

I been using off the shelf Castrol GTX for the last 25yrs or so on all my street stuff with flat tappet cams, I got one with 462,000mi and one with 126,000mi and still running strong... Just sayin...
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

dick1172762

Put a Ranger roller cam in it and you'll not need zinc any more. I've used STP since the 50's and never had any problems with it. It has a high zinc content in it (blue can) according to the label on the can.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

kerryann

we used the rotella 15-40 for awhile until the zinc was gone there too.  guess you have to depend on additives for flat tappet longevity.  is the STP stuff any good?  ive read into a few different ones that can be ordered but not sure which if any have the good stuff in them

74 PintoWagon

It's illegal to have oil on the shelf that has Zinc in it, only exception is the Schell Rotella which is for diesel engines, and even that has been cut down to a minimum.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

kerryann

i hear ya.  always used straight weight oils until i lost my first flat tappet cam at break in on a 400 sbc.  was most likely due to faulty lifters but after that i started doing some reading and chasing the "zinc" oil.  zinc and phosphorus is supposed to be what youre after im told.  like you said, if its cheap it's not there anymore.  a guy on a nova forum used to do lab tests every month and report PPM of all important ingredients.  that was a handful of years back and he was down to only valvoline as far as over the counter.   guess they are out now as well.  brad penn is good stuff but very expensive (just payed $89 for a case for race motor).  haven't tried additives in awhile, didnt know which one of those i could trust either.

i guess i should shoot for a straight 40?  we've used a lot of 20w-50 or straight 50 in the worn out chevy v8s we drive around with no issue.  valvoline sells a "racing" 60 but never tried it.

since parts store 40 weight won't have any zinc or phosphorus what additive should i also buy?

amc49

I ran straight 30 in winter and 40 in summer all the time I ever drove my SOHC in Texas. Do it with later zetecs too now. Conventional had more zinc in it back in the day but not anymore, nothing does now unless buying the dedicated race oil, you'll know by the price, the oil will greatly increase in cost. With Valvoline I believe it is motorcycle only. Like $5+ a qt. Regular racing pretty sure has no zinc now. The price is the key, they pay a penalty to EPA for higher zinc levels.

I go 9K oil changes, the multi-vis wears out the additives fastest, that is what makes a 10 weight cold oil a 40 weight hot. I prefer the single weight, the oil is actually that single weight before additives ever added to it. So an extreme OCI still has fairly thick oil, it does not thin as much.

I snatched an AMC oil filter center fitting to put it in the 2.3 block then used AMC V8 filters (same size as FL1) and with no bypass in them to filter 100%. Worked great.

You really can get away with murder as far as oil weights on almost all motors. Everybody warned me of the VCT issues and not using correct oil, never had any issues at all and 200K miles. Here they start up just a bit slower on coldest day of winter but they always start. I probably give up a small amount of fuel mileage but I don't like thin weights. I have actually cured startup rattling on cars by thickening the oil up even though the conventional wisdom says no. No matter, I have my own wisdom for why it works. People talk about dry starts but it just doesn't happen, the thicker oil does not run out of bearings when it cools down like the multi-vis does especially when the multi-vis is worn out. Ergo, more there at the cold start. Nobody wants to talk about that of course.

74 PintoWagon

Sounds like valve seals, that's what mine did..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

kerryann

still waiting on jets so no tuning has been done as of lately.  been driving the car here and there.  it puffs smoke at startup while idling and also after a half hour or so trip when you come to rest and idle.  so most likely it puffs the whole time.  it is using oil.  down almost to the add a quart line.

what viscosity oil do you all recommend?  i know this is a heavily debated question.  i run valvoline 20w-50 race oil in my flat tappet small block chevys in street cars and tow vehicles for the supposed zinc levels.  my engine builder doesn't like the valvoline and says he's had it give up on the dyno in new motors.  he uses brad penn 20w-50 and i do as well in my race motors.

but back to this little street 2.3 ford that puffs smoke.  after reading a little on here seems most in warm temps run 10w-40.  wont be cold around here for awhile so just trying to figure out what would be best and what brand.  it's overdue for an oil change.  i run a fram racing filter on the race motors but i know wix k&n and bosch are supposed to make decent oil filters as well. 

amc49

I used to carry a small hammer and screwdriver in the M II there for a while when the 2.3 used to pop rocker arms out. Simple light whack and non-roller rocker out or in in like a second. I got to where I could fix the whole thing and back running in like 3-4 minutes. I disassemble head same way now.

The guides got redone slightly tight and the exhaust built up carbon to stick the valve when cold and valve swelled too quick, problem gone as soon as engine warm. Yanked head for valve freshening up, found the problem and simply running a reamer into the guides by hand only to knock out the carbon fixed it forever.

74 PintoWagon

Yeah, I can imagine what a pain it would be with screw drivers, wouldn't be too much fun either if they slipped with your fingers in the road, lol..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

jonz2pinto

They do make the job easier.sure beats us two long screwdrivers,one on each side of rocker.when I got mine ten or so years ago it took awhile to find who had one.maybe someone on here lead me there.
Pinto-is short for pint-o-fun.