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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

The 2000 in my 73 Wagon with some issues

Started by dianne, February 24, 2014, 12:40:11 PM

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amc49

It depends on whether you live around a big city and if that area is or is not making it to EPA emissions levels that trigger the necessity of addition of oxygenated fuel. Some areas further out and less populated do not have to have it, it being up to the states to determine their own best air cleanup plan. The 10% number is a joke, commonly here you can find it up to 20% and well over what is mandated. The oil company adds too much because cheaper than fuel is and the extra ethanol drops fuel mileage even more to make you fill up more. All the dealerships around here now routinely test the ethanol content of all warranty work cars that come in, if over 10% they disavow warranty and you have to pay for the repair out of pocket. A quick way of avoiding fixing their cars for free.

FYI, I used to print several prospectus for ethanol companies back when I printed, the government subsidizes the cost heavily, if they drop out of that then you will see it vanish overnight because it still costs from $5-$6/gallon if you pay the full cost. With the subsidy in place the price then drops like a rock to be cheaper than straight gas. All the company owners stated in the financials that if the subsidy goes away it would 'adversely affect the company', or techspeak for 'we'll lose our -ss'..................if only.............

I hate ethanol but if you can't pass a tailpipe test it is good to dump some in, it cleans up emissions by a good chunk.

It does attack certain rubbers and metal after a while, the water combines when pulled out of the air to make acid that then results in curious hit or miss corrosion that begins to show up in cars that sit. It will rust up tanks incredibly though, most in-tank fuel pumps I used to warranty at thew parts store came from that, they would be just buried in rust mud there and why pumps are so high now. Most people refuse to clean the fuel tank when changing a pump (required by most pump warranties now) and get ready to change it again too early by not doing so.

Smaller power equipment and boating stuff suffers first because the venting is not so airtight and emissions control systems do not seal so well on them. The issue is aspiration of air that occurs every time temperature changes, the longer pathways down long tubing in cars stops most fresher air from getting to the fuel unlike the short pathways lawn mowers, chainsaws use to venting. You still can get around it though, I've gotten 15 years plus each out of the last two mowers I've had. I just pull them down, relap exhaust in, tighten the guides back up a bit (for free) and one re-ring in there once somewhere; after that the cylinder walls will be dead on a classic aluminum to aluminum motor, the cast iron liner ones go even longer. I now routinely baggy the fuel cap and with rubber band around it when parking like the rider for the winter, or empty tank out. I haven't bought a mower either in more than 30 years, I always luck out to find an easily rebuildable one thrown out to the curb. I rebuild it and keep going. You can freshen up those engines in like one hour.

Just running E10 drops a 30 mpg car around 1 1/2-2 mpg to increase your gas cost, they certainly don't tell you that when they tell you how great the fuel is. Or how to waste enough fuel to make up for the cleaner air you got. I can hear Curly now.........NYUK, NYUK, NYUK..............

I wash parts off in fuel since it is the cheapest thing I can easily get, I do it 100% outside. The ethanol laced fuel has an advantage in that when done washing part, you can blast it with the garden hose to remove all the oily residue that straight gas used to leave, the ethanol allows the water to cut that residue off and parts pretty much dry out to be bone dry. How fast does ethanol fuel dry? Drip some on a hot mower (DON'T blow yourself up!!!) in like summer to watch it evap so fast it's unbelievable, the ethanol greatly increased the evap rate of common gasoline................why it dries up in carb bowls so fast too. If I am going to start up a car that has sat for awhile I now routinely pour some fuel back in carb vent to let the VOCs loosen things up like accel pump diaphragms and other rubber parts, otherwise they may tear when you work the throttle on a dry carb. I do it like 24 hours before car is to be started. Same with the bike, if you simply fuel and start it may leak from 50 o-ring leaks, let fuel sit in parts and the o-rings swell back out overnight to make carb back to fuel tight the next day. I've saved several o-ring jobs just doing that, one should try buying unobtanium oddball o-ring sizes at like $7 (X4) each, after a little of that you will explore other options...........................

Pinto5.0

Quote from: beaner on February 25, 2014, 05:53:15 PM
im going to run E85 gas in my pinto  ;D  the carb is set for my engine cheeper than race gas  ;)

brad :)

At some point I plan to step up to a 3.4L Whipple or KB Mammoth on my 07 Stang & I'm going to set it up with an E85 tune to see if I can surpass 900 RWHP but I want a pump premium tune for daily driving.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

74 PintoWagon

Quote from: dga57 on February 25, 2014, 12:40:25 PM
That depends on where you live.  Do an internet search for ethanol-free gasoline in your area.  I have one filling station about five miles from me and another about eight miles away that have it.  Pricier, but worth it!

Dwayne :)

Man you're lucky no such thing around Ca and Az, and pretty soon we'll be getting ready for the BS summer blend(another way to raise prices).. >:(
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

dianne

Quote from: dianne on February 25, 2014, 06:57:46 PM
Nothing new here, Big Government hates us small businesses :(

Me likes the motor a LOT! Can't wait to get the King engine back :D
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

dianne

Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

beaner

im going to run E85 gas in my pinto  ;D  the carb is set for my engine cheeper than race gas  ;)

brad :)

Pinto5.0

'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

sedandelivery

We had a station here that advertised ethanol-free gasoline, then he said by law he had to sell ethanol mix in the gasoline. Ethanol corrodes small engine carburetors which I can attest to. Was the owner right? It was a Good-2-Go station.

dianne

Quote from: dick1172762 on February 25, 2014, 01:31:43 PM
CONOCO has it but only in super duper hi $$$. Better than nothing.

Well I don't have Conocos here :( Oh well, stuck with corn in my tank I guess.
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

dick1172762

CONOCO has it but only in super duper hi $$$. Better than nothing.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dga57

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on February 25, 2014, 08:59:33 AM
I don't think you can get gas anymore without Ethanol in it, unless you get race gas or Avgas.
That depends on where you live.  Do an internet search for ethanol-free gasoline in your area.  I have one filling station about five miles from me and another about eight miles away that have it.  Pricier, but worth it!

Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

dianne

Well, it's killing lawn mowers that for certain and other small engines.

I'll get some inline fuel filters for all my cars I guess.
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Pinto5.0

A 10% Ethanol blend is mandated by the clowns in DC to assure the farmers a healthy kickback for their corn crops.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

74 PintoWagon

I don't think you can get gas anymore without Ethanol in it, unless you get race gas or Avgas.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

dianne

Whew, I didn't think of that! I lost a lawn mover last year from it I was told by the shop I brought it to, then he showed me a pile of engines.

I can't find any gas stations without ethanol to be honest, and I've looked.

I'm going to print this out and give it to my mechanic.

Thanks!
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

amc49

Verify if the fuel used there now has 10% ethanol in it, if so you are wasting time and money using any gas drier as your fuel is already carrying 10% of it. Ethanol is commonly used as a gas drier along with methanol or isopropyl, all alcohols of different types. They pull moisture to them and carry it on  through. That can be bad if the tank system is not airtight though, then they will always pull any water out of the airspace in the tank and why you fill tank all the way up if letting car sit for a while. The gas cap must seal properly, commonly they don't on pre-emission cars, they were not designed to very well. Nowadays the tank system is tightly sealed from the elements and you can let car sit longer with no ethanol problems. Carbed cars really hate ethanol, I have several that sit and since ethanol showed up my bringing a car back up after sitting problems have multiplied from very little trouble to a real b-tch now sometimes. The residual sugar left in the ethanol has a tendency to make the float needles stick, they stick lightly and usually open since the ethanol has a much greater tendency to evaporate from fuel bowl much more than plain fuel did. The sticking open then floods car right when you go to start it, they commonly can then unstick after a few seconds but by then plug already wet and foul city and no start or runs like crap for a little bit until plug burns clean again. I have pulled more than one carb apart to simply lightly touch the needle to then have it unstick and it then goes to working normally after that, of course by then you have torn up carb gaskets to get that far. A real pain...................it also messes with fuel pump check valves as well and the pump can work or not work with nothing really wrong with it other than it's stuck up a little bit. The rubber checks do not like ethanol at all. You will get far more ultra-fine powdered rust as well the ethanol rusts steel tanks and why all now are plastic. The fine dust goes right through most fuel filters out there especially if you use the very small crap factory Ford filters that screw directly into carb. They are so small they are virtually worthless and can make you think pump is dead when only filter is clogged. I use nothing but real big filters cut into the line further down now, having gone through filter hell several years back, the car just kept clogging them at the rate of like one every two weeks and car kept going down. Going to a really big filter stopped all that, have a look at how big they are on fuel injected cars now, that's for a reason. Ethanol by virtue of its' water carrying ability will always have far more water borne trash in it than straight fuel ever did. Changing fuel filters frequently now if they are small is a fact of life. Ask Ford about why they had to warranty thousands of early Focus fuel pumps when there was nothing wrong with them except for early ethanol that was not filtered nearly as well as they do now, it cost them millions in recall actions. It happened to both of mine, simply pulling module and cleaning the three filters there fixed them to go back on and run fine, not bad for an expected $400 charge apiece for the new module needed. Now the ethanol is filtered better after thousands of complaints and no trouble any more.

Your problem could simply be ignition, have someone go over it all but if you are running duraspark then shouldn't be that unless coil is dying. Maybe check the reluctor gap, it needs to be as close as possible without ever contacting the pickup, closer makes the impulses stronger to the ignition module, that makes them more reliable as a stream. I look for like slightly under .010" if the distributor shaft is still good and tight. The pickup coil can be easily checked for resistance as well. After that it will be the module.

Ethanol laced fuel is always harder to start on cold wet days as a norm, the ignition must be really dead on to pull engine up quickly without fouling plugs. These foul easy anyway, the heads are known for fuel fallout problems because of the really crap port design. Why the later 2.3s went to D-port, to take some volume out of them to speed flow up to stop fallout. 2.0 pretty bad about it too. The port is too big and too low and a hard right angle right at the valve pocket then separates fuel from air to foul plugs. Add to that the ethanol A/F ratio  is 9/1 instead of straight gas 14/1 and you can easily be way too lean or too rich since the car does not have a PCM to correct like later ones which retune mixture instantly. Carbed motor in good running shape will be slightly too lean if jetting has never been messed with. The ethanol just by being there can easily wildly tilt the A/F ratio one way or the other to not start easy though and why carbs zoop using it. Go to driving car everyday and the vast majority of the trouble will go away. It's when they sit the problems begin. I'd swear it's a plan to force all pre-emission collector cars off the road but don't listen to me, they'll tell you I'm crazy...........................

I feel the pain as well, I have an inline 4 CB550F that sits a lot, runs perfectly once sorted out but it tries to stick all 4 carbs to just pour fuel out of it when first cranked after sitting for as little as two weeks. I have developed a procedure to lightly blow air into the fuel line now just to 'pop' the needles loose so I can get around all the issues much faster and easier. I really got tired of repeatedly yanking the carb bank over and over simply to pull bowls to unstick the needles. Tapping on the sides was absolutely worthless.

If you have three lines going to pump you can block the bypass back to the tank to get better fuel pump action, we used to do it at the shop to peoples' cars all the time and never suffered any bad result doing it. Might be well for someone to look at choke setting too.

You can short out inside cap with no detectable moisture at all FYI................look for carbon tracking it will be there if doing it. If you can find a Tempo distributor rubber protector you can put it on a 2.0 distributor to lower the temperature swings it goes through. I always yanked mine off and tossed them as I had no trouble there at all. Watch the ignition wires to make sure they are not running next to each other to bleed voltage from one to another, that can happen just like inside the cap if wires run next to each other, theoretically they should never do more than cross each other, any running next to each other for like 2 inches plus is bad and worse as ignition voltage gets higher. Use wire holders to keep them from laying heavy on metal valve covers too.

I haven't bought a cap or rotor in like thirty years, I simply tune them up by taking off any deposit off posts and rebend the center electrode to press slightly harder against the center carbon cap button which must be there. I wipe the cap inside out with alcohol too. Simple parts, they last forever if taken care of and no need to change if working OK. On my 2.3 Mustang II I had a 2.0 manifold, it comes really close to the #1 intake runner. I cut off two of the top cap posts (already using the short cap) and then took them low out of the side of cap instead, once worked out it ran perfectly after that; necessity is the mother of butchery they say........

dianne

Well I also put some heat in the tank because it was parked inside right before winter. It's not painted and only has lacquer primer on bare metal underneath it. I got the winter gas someone told me and it sat all winter. Now if that's not true don't laugh at me LOL So it seems to have helped it also. I didn't remember the stearo that Dave put in it, it's pretty awesome listening to Led Zepplin or Black Sabbath! Going back to my youth now :-D I wasn't one of those disco girls back then ahahahaha

I gotta paint it sooner than later because now it's sitting outside but when it sits and I'm driving the Galaxy for some time now I have a 7 layer cover for it. I have a Too many cars I guess. The Maverick and King are in there being stripped. He said that I need to start these at least once a week I guess. They all have mechanical fuel pumps. I guess the gas can run back into the gas tank. I think the Model T was gravity feed.

I did the heat thing adn my mechanic will change the wires and all the rest. This is a pointless distributor Dave put in the car. Pointless eh? LOL
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

74 PintoWagon

Moisture in the cap, next time it's wet out pop the cap it'll probably be wet inside.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

dianne

Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

beaner

try a new set of points and condenser with a cap and plugs and wires too
brad :)

dianne

Someone just suggested that I toss some Heat in the tank. Might have some moisture or water in there from sitting all winter here. It's a cheap try anyways...

Or I'll be checking the cap for condensation.
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

dianne

This car backfires and sputters when started and until it gets warm. The biggest problem here is that some days it's hard to start. The car sat for about 2 1/2 months to 3 months during the winter when I was driving *cough* the BMW that's been sold for a 70 Galaxie. So it was hard starting, real bad and I didn't start it for months when it was sitting there honestly. But got it started and driving it. Some days the thing starts just fine and other days it won't start at all. My mechanic thinks it's the fuel pump and I don't know. Fuel pump is available for $35.00 and labor locally.

It just seems to me, but what do I know, that there is something else wrong here. This morning it started right now, but others it did not. Any clues to what it might be? Seems to be wetter out and higher humidity when it's not starting well. Mornings and evenings, seems funny, is when I'm having a problem. Seems to be OK other days.
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied