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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

simple fat bumper fix

Started by JoeBob, September 25, 2011, 11:56:41 PM

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dick1172762

Aluminum 77/78 bumpers. Same shape.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

74 PintoWagon

I'm sure with some thought something could be made to replace it with something lighter.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

russosborne

Exactly.
I just wish there was a simple way to cut down on the weight. That piece behind the bumper (reinforcement?) weighs a ton.
But at least this way it will look so much better.
Russ
In Glendale, Arizona

RIP Casey, Mallory, Abby, and Sadie. We miss you.

79 Pinto ESS fully caged fun car. In progress. 8inch 4.10 gears. 351C and a T5 waiting to go in.

74 PintoWagon

I'll be doing the same thing with mine too, can't stand them bumpers sticking out there. >:(
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

russosborne

Thanks!

I know that there is at least one more person wanting to do this your way, he posted the link to this in response to a question I had posted.

I for one really appreciate your taking the time to post this originally and for the time to answer my questions.  ;D

I have removed the front bumper, just need to drill the holes. Hoping to get that done and at least start on the rear this week.

Just wanted to double check on the removal. I will be doing this mod now, but will need to remove the bumper whenever it is time to paint the car. Might be years.  :(

I also got your PM. I really appreciate that.  8)

Thanks, again!
Russ
In Glendale, Arizona

RIP Casey, Mallory, Abby, and Sadie. We miss you.

79 Pinto ESS fully caged fun car. In progress. 8inch 4.10 gears. 351C and a T5 waiting to go in.

JoeBob

Dear Russ

The answer to the first question is yes. leave brackets on car. Second I did not grind. I bet it would be easier if you did. It was very tough to get the clips on at this point. I did not happen to think of grinding. It worked out ok the way I did it. Yes cut off all four. There are 2 bolts per side that attach the bumper to the iron mounting plate. Put the top bolts through the iron plate and tape in place before you assemble.
    Before I did this back bumper, I posted a photo of the bridge plate and posed the question. "I want to cut this out, does anyone know a reason I should not cut it, and if I do, does anyone see a reason I can not mount my bumper this way? Moonman did not just answer my question but he mounted his bumper in the way I proposed. It was my idea, but he did it first. Moonman pointed out that he had problems with this bolt and had to tape it in place, as I now recommend.
The bumper can be detached. Mounting and removing it requires 24" of socket extensions, so it takes patience and time. I hope I never need to remove it.
   After I posted this I received few comments. To the best of my knowledge, no one else has done it. I thought everyone would love the idea, but I guess not.
    I worked my way through this just trial and error. I think it will explain it's self as you go. You may even find better ways of doing things than I found.
Good luck
Bill

Sending P.M.

77 yellow Bobcat hatchback
Deuteronomy 7:9

JoeBob

It has been several years since I did this. Give me a couple of days to review and refresh myself as to what I did.
77 yellow Bobcat hatchback
Deuteronomy 7:9

russosborne

Hi. I was going to PM you, but I couldn't manage to quote from the above in the PM. Besides, this should be up top anyways.  ;D

I want to do this, but I have a few questions about the rear bumper, if you don't mind.

" Remove bumper," I am assuming you mean "from the mounting brackets, leaving brackets attached to car" at this point?

You said "Cut out the bridge plate shown in the next photo.Bridge plate has 2 small holes with larger hole in the center." Did you mean to cut out the center of this plate, leaving what is welded to the frame in place? If so, since this is where the nut clips go, would it be better to grind off the welded part, or would that leave the area too weak? Maybe just grind out where the nut clips go to make them fit easier?

Again, you said "Cut off the last hole on the mounting bracket where it protrudes beyond the back of the car." I am assuming you mean all four?

Again, (sorry, I am not able to visualize a lot of this) "Before you bolt everything back in fit bumper bolt through the top hole, tape it in place so that it does not drop out wile you are working. You will not be able to fit this though after brackets are attached." Where is this top hole located? And is it just one per side, or two? And can the bumper be removed and reattached after all this is done?

I think those were the major sticking points I have.

Thanks again for posting this info in the first place.

Russ
In Glendale, Arizona

RIP Casey, Mallory, Abby, and Sadie. We miss you.

79 Pinto ESS fully caged fun car. In progress. 8inch 4.10 gears. 351C and a T5 waiting to go in.

JoeBob

If this was a perfect world, I would just unbolt the bumper brackets from the frame, push the bumpers into back to an attractive position, and bolt them back on. Believe it or not that is exactly what you can do. Ford has put holes in the frame to allow you to do just that. It is not exactly easy. The front bumper took me 2 hours. The back took 6 hours.
    Take off the front bumper and the brackets. Drill a new mounting hole in the bracket as seen the photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=drillhole.jpg&newest=1
The bracket mount will fit too close to the radiator frame to leave the bolt in this position. Reattach the brackets in the retracted position, using the bolt hole in the second position for your first bolt.  Now a hole in the frame lines up perfectly with your second bolt. See second photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=relocarion3.jpg
This hole does not have an attached bolt.  Behind this position you will see an oblong hole. Review photo. Using a stiff wire make a loop around a nut, hot glue it to secure it to the wire. Photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=nuttrick.jpg
Fish it through the oblong hole to line up with the bolt, tighten down. Reassemble the bumper. Done.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=DSC02747.jpg
For some reason the mounting frame for the radiator on passenger side was ¼ inch too far forward to allow the bracket to fit properly. A light tap with a sledge hammer moved it back into the correct position. See photo. red tape shows where I hit with the hammer. http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=radiatortap.jpg
    Back bumper retraction is more complicated. In addition to basic tools you will need 24 inches of socket extensions. Get some from your friends before you start. Some touch-up paint will also be helpful. Jack up car just in front of back wheel and set on jack stands. See photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=DSC02783.jpg
Detach shocks. Remove bumper, and rubber valance. Remove bolts from bracket and leaf spring mount and let down. Cut out the bridge plate shown in the next photo.Bridge plate has 2 small holes with larger hole in the center. http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=strap.jpg
Cut off the last hole on the mounting bracket where it protrudes beyond the back of the car. Photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=DSC02785.jpg
Take bolt clips from hole cutoffs and fit holes in the area where you cut out the bridge plate.. ( very difficult ) Before you bolt everything back in fit bumper bolt through the top hole, tape it in place so that it does not drop out wile you are working. You will not be able to fit this though after brackets are attached. Attach brackets and springs. finished position
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=DSC02800.jpg
You might want to put masking tape on sides of body where bumper wraps around. Photo. http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=DSC02795.jpg
It is easy to rub bumper on body wile working, this will prevent scratching. By the way. This applies to front as well. Paint the mounting plates with touch-up paint as they will show a little after work is done. Mount bumper with bottom bolts, loose, just a few threads. Fit socket extensions together, Tape them together so you wont lose one. On drivers side from in front of the back tire, slide socket extensions over the top of the filler neck and slip own the channel onto the top bumper bolt. Tighten down. On passenger side you will need to take a pliers and bend a little of the sheet metal fender liner to allow for the socket to slide down the channel. Tighten down bottom bolts. Reattach the shocks. You are done. The mounting holes of the bumper valance show. I took round top bolts and painted them with touch-up paint. Tightened bolts in to fill the holes. Looks like manufacturer bolted something in ,from the factory. Photos  http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view&current=DSC02790.jpg    job finished
Special thanks to Moonman for valuable help. I know it is long but worth it
Good luck
Bill
If anyone does this I would love to know. Post photos.
77 yellow Bobcat hatchback
Deuteronomy 7:9