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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

My 74 Runabout

Started by nnn0wqk, September 16, 2011, 01:32:23 AM

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Wittsend


Quote from: Henrius on November 23, 2018, 08:00:56 PM
...  That car gets more attention at car shows than any I have taken!


Recently I've had similar occur with my '73 wagon.  Somewhere between a driver and a beater it was typically ignored. But the last few trips to Cars & Coffee people with nice cars are noticing and commenting on it!  A lot of them say, "I haven't seen a Pinto in a LONG time."




Henrius

Quote from: nnn0wqk on September 16, 2011, 01:32:23 AM
I am the original owner of this 1974 Runabout. Car has 229970 miles. I got this the year I graduated from high school. I started to restore it after my 30 year class reunion but as sometimes happens with projects I got side tracked. My stepson graduates this year from high school and needs a senior project. He wants to become a mechanic and last winter we worked on a Toyota Celica for him and installed a motor and transmission. So now he wants to help get the Pinto back on track and going. So only seems fitting to make it a graduation project again. I have most all the original paper work for the car. Only thing missing is the window price sticker. Found the build ticket when I pulled the carpet. Have the original newspaper add it was a weekend special for $3158.58. Regular price was $3569.00. Oh to be able to buy a new car for that price now. Only part that failed during the warrenty period was wiper switch. Out side of brakes once or twice and timing belts every 60000 or so and carb cleaning a couple of times it is as it left the factory. The starter failed the day of the 30th class reunion!! Brush spring broke and would not make contact. Not bad for a cheep car. This is a California emission car out here in Idaho. The neigbors had one that looked the same and was with the exception of the moon roof in theirs. About 100000 difference in serial numbers but also California emission car. Both have the 2.3 engine with 4 speed. I bought it and  plan on using the engine out of it for now. Mine has a burnt exhaust valve. In time I will rebuild mine and reinstall into car, but this will help keep cost down for now. So plans are to rebuild back to stock condition. I am adding factory A/C, heated back glass, and remote mirrors. A/C because I always wanted it, glass and mirrors for safety. One of the items I need to find is a source for seatbelts as my driver belt is bad. I would like to find the body molding that goes in the rear wheel wells. So this will be the winter project with my son. I think we are both looking forward to it. Maybe me more so then he but then I am a ASE tech so know what fun we can have! I am going to farm out the quarter panels for replacement as I just do not have the time right now to do them and we want to start on this before long. The only rust that I could find in the car is back of the rear wheels and when I got it stripped just to the left of the dimmer switch. Floor pans and doors looked very good as did front fenders. If the picture post my car is the one on the right. Left is neigbors. Guess they could be called double trouble. Dennis

Wow, you outdid me! In 1976 my parents bought me a used 1973 for graduation. I've owned it ever since. I disassembled and mothballed it in 1995, but now the restoration is nearly finished. That car gets more attention at car shows than any I have taken!
1973 Pinto Runabout with upgraded 2.0 liter & 4 speed, and factory sunroof. My first car, now restored, and better than it was when it rolled off the assembly line!

nnn0wqk

As summer comes upon me I find less time to work on the car. These pictures were actually take last winter probably in March or April. Anyway I am adding the remote mirror to the right door and was wondering which grommet hole was originally used for the cable. Years ago I ran a wiring harness in as you can see if a couple of the pictures. I am a amateur radio operator and have both a hf and 2 meter radio in the car. Plan on putting both back in and actually have the 2 meter mounted now. The hf rig seats in the back of the car. Anyway that is the reason for the extra relay in the engine compartment. My luck and I have a 50% chance is the wiring harness is using the mirror hole. Now would be the time to switch it if I have it wrong. The last picture shows the Stewart Warner mini gauge panel that I installed years ago. Used to be under dash to the right of the steering wheel but had to relocated due to the mirror adjustment knob that will be there now.

nnn0wqk

Thank you. Yes I hope to do that when I get to the doors. Been mostly waiting for the weather to warm up a little to get to those types of projects. The garage will stay at 50, I need to add some sort of heat to be able to get it into the 70's for painting. Just did not have the funds for that this winter. The electrical has been check out. Waiting on a relay for the heated back glass, the timer was gone in the old relay so it would not allow the relay to turn on. Once that arrives I will wrap up the dash area. I am not going to install the instrument cluster until after I get the right door hung. I am adding the sport mirrors to the car and it looks much easier to route the cable and get it into the hole it belongs in with the cluster out of the way. Have replaced all the lights on the cluster and the housing seems to be in great shape yet so lucked out there. Just do not want to stress it anymore than needed by taking it in and out two or three times. The goal is to have the car on the road again by July 2019. That should be when the next class reunion will be and since I bought it the year I graduated from school I am hoping to be able to attend the next reunion in it.

pinto_one

if you can you should undercoat inside of the doors if you can , found most doors rust from the inside out , clean them out real good to make sure no road salt is inside and a two part etch primer followed by a good grade under coat , done mine and it also make the car much more quit ,
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

nnn0wqk

Found the time today to apply so undercoating to the front fenders and wheel wells while I had easy access. Will hit them again once everything is back on the car.

nnn0wqk

Actually it goes back to 2004. Life got in the way for a few years. At least it is headed the right direction now.

Lonny Candel

Wow, has this been a 4 year tear down nuts and bolts project?  That's what I see from the posting history!
90 Mustang LX w/ 84 TC 2.3 / 88 TC injectors, VAM, & computer
84 Mercury Cougar LS 3.8
81 Ford Durango 3.3
81 Chevy El Camino 350 Crate

nnn0wqk

Took time tonight to install new bulbs in the instrument cluster before it goes back into the car. Need to get one new socket, when I pulled the bulb out one ear broke. Actually I ended up taking the cluster apart and cleaning it up. Not sure why this has not turned to white dust. It is in great shape with no signs of age. Did find one bulb that was dead so it was a good time to replace.

nnn0wqk

The dash install is about complete. Original dash and still in great shape after all these years.

nnn0wqk

Robertwwithee at the time I did the rear quarter panels I was able to get NOS inner panels from Green Auto Sales. Think they were $100.00 a side. That was about 6 years ago so hard to say if they would have anymore or not but would be worth checking with them if you need them. I am guessing that the water damage on this car in that area came from trim holes. I do not recall that there was any sealer in the holes. This car has the bright trim around the windows and also the body side trim so two areas water could have entered.

nnn0wqk

Just about have the engine wrapped up. Need to install the oil sender yet. I in years past had installed a Stewart Warner mini gauge set which I plan in reinstalling. I have to find the water and oil senders for those gauges yet. The water sender may still be on the original engine and it is stored about ten miles from here. Not sure about the oil sender as I have the tee and one sender but not sure where the other sender is at the moment. So need to make a trip out and look at that engine one of these times.  Need to find two tower style hose clamps so I can finish the heater hose connections and the radiator has to go in yet. New radiator which I have had for many years however when I pulled it out of the box it looked like maybe one tube had been damaged so I have it at a radiator shop being checked out before I put it in the car. Other than getting fluids back into the engine I think it is about done at the point. Went through the gear box on the wiper motor and have that back in the car before the dash goes back in. Car was built in Jan of 74 and the wiper motor was stamped Jan 14 74 so it went right into the car at the time without any delays. One item I forgot to install on the engine before I dropped it back into the car was the EGR tube that runs around the back of the motor. The original heat wrapping was pretty much shot. Got some new wrapped off EBay which showed up today. So tonight I found out that yes you can install that tube with the engine in place. Had fun getting the screw back into the clamp that is at the back of the block but finally got it started. Maybe an inch of room between the engine and the firewall. Next time I will remember to install that tube while everything is easy to get to. I have been waiting to put the drive line in not knowing if I was going to have to pull the engine again or not. So that can go back in now too. Slowly the garage is getting bigger as the pieces get put back on the car. So as the mechanical part of the project is coming to an end I will have to turn my attention back to paint work. I also picked up the new windshield from the glass shop today so will have to find some place safe to store it until I am ready to install. $205.06 with tax so thought that was a reasonable price.

robertwwithee

Inner rear wheel wells? Well i seen that and figured condensation build up on the inside causes surface corrosion from inside out.  Could also be from trim holes not sealed allowing water in.  Im in same situation too though

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


nnn0wqk

Good question about the inner fender panels. Actually I had never noticed that until you pointed it out. I would assume that the water gets in around the trim holes. In my case the windows do not flip out so that should not be the source. This car has been parked inside all of it's life so I am sure that has helped with the rust issues. The twin car which is a donor had the moon roof option. The floor boards are gone on it as it sit out for many years and the roof did not seal well. Good point on the door drain seals. When I get back to them I will make that update. Had not thought about filling with POR-15 but will do that. I did run them through an electrolysis process which should have gotten rid of most of the rust but that would be a good follow up to make sure. The other part of the car that had rust issues was the back hatch. Both cars were bad. I did located what appears to be a good hatch and it has been soaked. Now that you have mentioned the POR-15 I may see if I can get some in the drain holes and let it sit.

I should have been working on this all along but I let life get in the way for a few years. So a little more of a challenge now as I have to search once in awhile for fasteners although most I put in baggies and did label at the time of disassembly so that certainly helps. Like last night I was looking at the pedal assembly where it bolts to the firewall. Could see daylight through to small holes. Looked like a 1/4 inch size metal screw hole. Parts book confirmed that. It had been so long since I had pulled that apart that those  two screws had been forgotten. Anyway thanks for the comments. Will post more as I go along.

Wittsend


Everything seems to be coming along nicely.  Given the quarter panel replacement you did it amazes me that the floor look so nice.  Everyone thinks So. Cal. cars are rust free but my experience is that (with the older collectible cars) about 80% of them have enough floor rust that it needs attention.  The problem isn't like in the rust belt where salt works from the outside in. Here rain get in through doors/windows/vent system, gets under the carpet and rots the floors from the inside out.  Whenever I buy a car I always take a screw driver and undo the sill plate and then look around under the carpet.


Question for you; up in post #5 the first picture (included below) is a shot of the internals forward of the rear wheel. Any clue as to why that are always seems to rust?  On my car it is NOT from any wheel well damage.  In your case it looks like it might have begun externally, but not in mine. Thus I'm left to wonder if it is the seal for the flip out window hinge, or the trim that sits horizontal just below the windows (I have a wagon). This seems to trap water and the mount holes provide a pathway for water to accumulate down below.  I need to do repairs in this area, but even more so, I want to make sure it doesn't re-occur.


Just a little tip (for anyone). I had rot in the lower corners of my doors. It seems the drain holes are about 3-4 inches back from the corners and if the car parks at an angle water will accumulate. Therefore I drilled holes at the back/front of each door at the extreme ends. After the repair I POR-15-ed the door internally about 2" up. Now when water gets inside the door it will have an exit pathway.

nnn0wqk

A few new pictures. Cleaned the wheels still look good after 44 years. The factory A/C system install. Always wanted A/C when the car was new and now we have it. This unit came out of a station wagon. After working out the belt issues for the compressor and air pump I have concluded the donor car was a 49 state emissions system which would have been more the norm for this part of the country. Bead blasted the rear drums and gave them a shot of high heat black paint. The shoes were probably close to 80% new on lining but I did replace the wheel cylinders. The front calipers have been rebuilt. The master cylinder is new as are the front brake hoses. I still need to order and install the rear flex hose. At that point the brake system should be to a safe condition.

dga57

Glad to know after 4 1/2 years, you're back on the project!  Welcome back!!!

Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

nnn0wqk

It is to bad that work gets in the way of fun. Back on the project after a few years on hold. Son graduated and moved on before we got the project done. He is married now and living in Arizona so doubt he will be back much to help. Anyway started back together. The engine and transmission are back in.  The A/C system is complete in the engine compartment. I have pumped it down and it holds a vacuum so should hold pressure when I get to that point. Found out that I did not have everything to install the A/C system. Needed compressor clutch pulley for a California car as the air pump drives of the A/C compressor. Located a NOS on and it was even marked Pinto-Calif. Thought I had the correct crank pulley located but when it arrived it was the same as the original one. So not sure if the parts book has a wrong number listed or what but the answer was to cut the grove for the A/C drive belt on the lathe. The A/C drives off the grove that the air pump originally ran on. Air pump belt is 1/4 inch and A/C belt is 1/2 inch in width. The pulley is cast iron so plenty of metal to work with. The engine compartment is about done at this point. The radiator has to be installed yet. I need to repaint the air cleaner. I have got the main wiring harness run from the back to the front.

Thought I had taken lots of pictures on tear down which I did however I missed a few things so it does take so research at times to discover how it was originally built. In the next few days I plan on getting the dash back into the car. Plenty to do yet but at least I am back working on the project.

nnn0wqk

According to the invoice from the yard it came off a 1980 Granada. It was a column shift, I tried to find a floor shift model but never did locate one. In fact one yard told me they did not believe Ford made a floor shift model for the Granada. I never saw the car, it was in Indenpendance, Mo I had it shipped here.

The only item that I have not figured out how to reinstall is the lock out button that stops the key from going into the lock posisition. Column shifts used the gear shifter to accomplish that and what the Pinto used will not work so I am leaving that out. The original lever for the T/S will screw into the Granada switch, on at least this Granada the wiper switch was part of that lever. I had aftermarket cruise control on the car so I may try and find a cruise switch out of a Jeep or Scout of that vintage as they were on the end of the lever with the wires going through the lever. Since Ford levers screw into the switch I never did try and make a lever in times past and I did not like the look of wires running down the outside of the column. With this new column I can run the wires like Ford did for the wiper switch.

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Pinturbo75

can you share a little more on the column, what year and model you poached it from?
75 turbo pinto trunk, megasquirt2, 133lb injectors, bv head, precision 6265 turbo, 3" exhaust,bobs log, 8.8, t5,, subframe connectors, 65 mm tb, frontmount ic, traction bars, 255 lph walbro,
73 turbo pinto panel wagon, ms1, 85 lb inj, fmic, holset hy35, 3" exhaust, msd, bov,

nnn0wqk

My how time can get away from a person. Been way to long since I posted on progress which has not been a great deal. Son graduated from HS and is off working on his own now. Wish we could have done more while he was home but grade 12 was very busy for him. Anyway I am working on tilt steering right at the moment. Took the idea off the Mustang 2 site. Finding out the Pinto is a little different but I think we can make it happen. Finding a steering column was a challange all the yards wanted to sell me a non tilt which really did not fill the bill. I found that to fit the Pinto ignition switch required modifing the Granada rod by cutting and rebending the hook to match the Pinto switch. The other issue is changing the wiring on the T/S switch. I tried to use the Pinto switch but it does not fit this column. The Granada switch uses a lot short harness so I will have to either make a jump harness or splice in to get to the required length. There are some other minor issues to deal with but I think it will work out. I will post some pictures of the issues I ran into if there is an interest.

nnn0wqk

Well it has been awhile since I have posted anything here. Son is so busy with school he is not sure which end is up but we are making progress. Found more rust issues than I was aware. We take care of them as we find them. Need to find a new lift gate, when I got the glass out the bottom was rusted through in several places. When I got the drivers door stripped found much rust hiding under the paint and several holes. Will make a trip tomorrow to look at the parts car I have and see if it is any better.

Have the A/C installed in dash. Tonight we were working on getting the heated back glass out of the frame it was in. Yes it was rusted out too. I have two questions as it has been about 5-6 years since I pulled these parts out of a car in the salvage yard. Where does the pilot light go in relationship to the switch? I do not recall if it was to the left or right of the steering. On the back glass where the wires attach there is a plastic clamp. How was that fastened to the glass frame? The frame the glass was in does not show anything. It is possible that the wiring came out of one car and the glass frame from another as I looked until I found a glass that was not burned out. Would anyone have a picture or two that they could post showing this? We are about ready to lay some paint down and will try and post pictures as we do that. May is getting here much quicker than we need.

Pintopower

Cool! I cant wait to see more. I love when I hear about original owners that still have their cars. As for seat belts:

http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/

They will rebuild your original units. I have used them in my following cars with many belt colors: '74 Pangra in black (which like your '74 has the double retractors), '80 Pinto wagon in light Wedgewood blue, '77 Pinto Wagon in tan, '76 Bobcat in bronze, my sisters '78 Pinto in palomino, '80 Toyota in brown, 1980 Fiat in saddle, along with many friends cars that I have recommended which are from Ford Pintos to Mercedes and Datsuns. They are expensive but if there is one place you should not skimp, it is your safety. I think they run about $100 per retractor (which is a downfall of the '74-'76 since there two per side). They try and add things like re-chroming and painting but I always decline it. They do sensational work. All original colors are available as well.  I have seen after market ones installed but the belts don't go across the driver properly, they are ugly and I don't really trust $40 seatbelts. 
I have many Pintos, I like them....
#1. 1979 Wagon V6 Restored
#2. 1977 Wagon V6 Restored
#3. 1980 Sedan I4 Original
#4. 1974 Pangra Wagon I4 Turbo
#5. 1980 Wagon I4 Restored
#6. 1976 Bobcat Squire Hatchback (Restoring)
...Like i said, I like them.
...and I have 4 Fiats.

nnn0wqk

The bondo work on the quarters is nearing the finish line. The car is about half stripped of paint at this point. Found some minor rust in the rear corners of the doors. Nothing in the outer skins that I can see so that will make life easier. Welded up the passenger door this afternoon and when I get paint off the other door will repair it too. At this point it is a rolling tub. Heater sure was easy to remove once dash was out of car. Anyone interested in a complete heater assembly let me know as I am going back with factory A/C. 

nnn0wqk

Well the car is back from the body shop. Now to finish the quarter panels and strip the paint off the rest of the body.

nnn0wqk

Still waiting on the body to get back from the repair shop. Been busy looking at other parts of the project. Going over the wiring harness's making needed repairs. We had a little time tonight so broke out the soda blaster to see what it would do to a fender. Need to get some HoldTight 102 to wash down the metal after cleaning and it is an item I can not find locally so probably will get off EBay. My other experience with soda blasting was mixed, did a wonderful job of taking paint off and not damaging metal but as soon as you washed it it flash rusted before your eyes and that was a pain to deal with. HoldTight is suppose to stop that so will see. Now to deal with the rust that was under the paint around the side maker light and behind the wheel well at the lower end. Probably will do some very light sandblasting in those areas. We are adding sports mirrors to the project and I cleaned up the right side. That went very fast and got into all the tight corners with no harm to the base metal. I did not get a picture of that.

blupinto

WOW! Very nice. You're hired for mine! lol ;)
One can never have too many Pintos!

nnn0wqk

John and I tackled the drivers seat last weekend. This is the only seat that was showing wear and tear. I purchased NOS seat material several years ago and after getting that then I ran across the correct seat covers for the car. We installed the covers and will keep the seat material for possible future repairs. This was Johns first time working on seats and he did a wonderful job. We found the seat pan was broke in one cover so traded it out with the parts car. Thought the finish job looked quite nice.

nnn0wqk

Got a break from work so John and I made a trip to the body shop to check on the progress. They had the right inner panel in place and the cancer was gone on the left front corner by the dimmer switch.They were starting on the left inner panel and had found some more rust but I got the impression they were going to fab what was needed to repair that rust. So it is coming along.