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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Air in my cooling lines?

Started by tinkerman73, April 13, 2011, 07:35:24 PM

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tinkerman73

Seamed like good flow to me. See, what I dont get, it worked too good until I changed the thermostat! Was hot. Two hours later, it has never really been warm again!
Jody Michielsen

Reeves1

tinker - I've had to replace heater cores in older Ford pick ups before, for much the same reasons you are having.
When you flushed the heater core (ie: both hoses off) did it seem to have real good flow ?
If not, the core may be hooped. New ones are cheap.

I also had an F-100 that had really poor heat, yet flow seemed not too bad. Took the core out and it was impacted with dust/dirt/grain (old farm truck). Cleaned it out and put it back. It promptly started leaking.
Replaced with a new one & never had another problem.

Anyway, the more about your problem the more I think it's not the thermostat or an air leak.......

tinkerman73

Thanks. I have done the flush on the heater core and still nothing. So I am going with the thermostat being either the wrong setting or not working properly. Well, the engine stays very cool. Thus it must be working, just not letting it get hot enough to give me any heat! LOL. Thanks.
Jody Michielsen

Starliner

BTW..  in the linked picture you will see my coolant overflow system, the white plastic bottle is the reservoir tank.
I keep that about half full when the car is cold. 
It is better to mount this as high as possible. 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

Starliner

Here is what I would do...

1.  Buy a brand name thermostat between 190 to 195 degrees F.     Stant is a good brand that comes to mind.
2.  Drain the system and install the thermostat.
3.  Fill with NEW anti-freeze and mix 50/50 with water.   Too much anti-freeze can make the engine run hot and also make your heater not as effective.  Leave the radiator cap off.
4.   Pump the gas once and start the engine.   It should be running at a fast idle.
5.  Watch the coolant level while the engine runs.   Top off as needed. 
6. Feel the top hose from time to time. (Be careful of the fan!)  It will get very hot after the thermostat opens and the coolant starts to flow.     At this point the coolant will either drop and need topping off again or it could overflow.    Feel the water in the radiator with you finger.   Is it real hot!  If yes, install the radiator cap and go for a short drive with the heater on.   Two miles ought to do it.
7. Return home and turn off the engine.    Open the hood and let it cool for 40 minutes.
8. Remove the radiator cap and check the radiator level.  It should be about 1 inch below the filler.   If it is low, add more coolant mix.
9.  Done!      Check it again the same way after your next drive just to make sure.

About the "peeing"....
This is normal.      When the engine gets hot the coolant expands.   It has to go somewhere.  So it goes out the overflow tube near the radiator cap.   That is why the coolant level is set about 1 inch down.   If the radiaitor is filled to the top it will pee everytime!     The reason it pees after you turn off a hot engine is because of "heat soak".  In other words, when the hot engine is turned off more engine heat is obsorbed into the coolant making it expand more. 

You can fix peeing...
Install an aftermarket coolant overflow kit.  All newer cars have this.  This is a good thing.   You help the environment and you can guarantee that your coolant system is always full.   It is low cost and easy to install.  You can also check your coolant level without removing the radiator cap.
See the overflow kit i have on my old 1600 Pinto at this link.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29396384@N05/4785368562/in/photostream

I would also use a Stant brand radiator cap with the pressure release lever instead of the cap that may come in the overflow kit.   
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

tinkerman73

The top I do is just barely above the down tubes. When I had changed the thermostat, I replaced the antifreeze with fresh. Ald was not bad shape yet. If there is a clog now, should have been there before one would think? LOL. But stranger things have happened. As for it peeing, it was iranically at the parts store. LOL. I think next time I pull off of the exspressway and stop at the store, I will leave it running so it will cool down some first so it wont be so prone to instantly boil over? Flushing the radiator will cost is I will need to get the kit and new radiator fluid. LOL. But I may try to do just the heater core redneck style next weekend? Thanks.
Jody Michielsen

sedandelivery

Just for the heck of it remove both heater hoses and backflush the heater core and see if it is blocked up with crap. Funny as it seems my father had an Acclaim with that problem. As far as the peeing, is the radiator clean inside? Maybe it could use a flush as well. Just a thought, and it doesn't cost anything.

Reeves1

How much head space are you leaving in the rad ?

Are you using any anti freeze ? If so, this "peeing" that is going on , hope you do not have pets......

tinkerman73

Well, last night when I got home, she peed a little bit? I had time today so I undid the one hose and filled until I got fluid. Run the heater and the car for a while. Was still circulating. Dont think as strong as it should be though? Still no heat? I am at a total loss here unless I have a blockage is why she wanted to pee? But, that does not help the situation with no heat? Wish someone on here who knew what do do was close so they could come over and give me help and pointers etc! Dang it all. Atg least she got her new oil change. Had to, I have put almost 4,000 miles on it already since February! I went with synthetic oil and some Lucas. So see how she likes that stuff!
Jody Michielsen

pintoman2.0

I NEVER had this problem until I got my SVO. Every time I mess with the system it gets an air lock so bad that it doesn't flow through the motor either, always over heats. The way I do it is I have one of those couplers for the heater hose that has a regular hose connection. I fill the system through this and then run the system with this being the highest point until I don't get any air and when I turn the attached hose down I get coolant. If you have ever had a car with a 4.6 you know that in order to fill the system completely you have to use the port in the tube that runs in front of the alternator as that is the highest point in the system and the only way to not have an air lock.

P

tinkerman73

Thanks. Little time to do much. So, when I left work, I took the cap off. Ran about 20 minutes at 70 with heater on. When I stopped at the gas station, the fluid was cycling. Being warm, the hoses were soft. So I could burp it. Saw the fluis rise and fall each time, but not really any air. Put the cap on. Half a hour later, I got just a little bit of heat. Later, I tried and no heat! So I know that the thermostat is working. I know the heater core worked until I changed the thermostat. so, I may have to freeze my butt off in the dnow this week and try to get it up on the ramps Easter? Thanks. The heater hosr trick sounds good. Will try it. Thanks.
Jody Michielsen

Reeves1

When filling cold I take the top heater core hose off. Easier at the engine & no chance of damage to the heater core. Fill rad & when it flows out both open ends (if the spigot on the engine is lower than the heater core, plug with your thumb).
Hold the hose higher than the core.
When water comes out, put back on engine and tighten clamps.

Then run it like vonkysmeed says.

Works every time.

vonkysmeed

Quote from: beaner on April 17, 2011, 09:15:10 PM
park it facing up a hill and let it run for a while it should burp the air out

brad :)

I have always just cycled the car with the cap off.  What I do is run the car for about 15 minutes with the cap off (enough time to have the t stat open) and verify that the coolant is flowing.  I would then rev it a few times to up the pressure (internally since there is no cap on the system).  After that, I top it off (while running) and put the cap back on.  don't forget to turn your heater on while doing this so that there will not be any air pockets in your heater core.


73 Pinto Runabout
351w from 74 galaxie
Heads from 69 Mercury Cougar
82 Mustang GT SROD Transmission and driveshaft
Mustang II rear end with Fairmont 3rd member
6 point cage

beaner

park it facing up a hill and let it run for a while it should burp the air out

brad :)

tinkerman73

Well, twice I have been able to get heat out of the sytem, but not much. The motor runs much cooler, so I would have to think that the thermostat I got was a lower temp rating one? But anyways, I am really thinking I have air in my heater lines. I have tried to burp the system by grasping and squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses. But these seem to be pretty hard and not very flexible. So I was unsuccesful. Is there a different way? I was wondering about getting a pressure tester. Would this create enough pressure in the lines to force the air out? I am at a loss as it is beyond my skills so far. So help is needed! Thanks.
Jody Michielsen

tinkerman73

Well, it is not the radiator cap. Car did fine today on the old one again! I do not know what the thermostat was rated for? HMMM< wondering maybe what it should be rated for here? Now, I did drain the radiator before tackling the thermostat. So a air bubble/lock it could be. It is not kicking out any heat! I never touched the heater core. Only took off the one hose on the outlet to change the thermostat. So, do I need to "burp" it by squeezing the radiator hose when its running? Better on the outlet or the inlet? Thanks.
Jody Michielsen

Reeves1

If your rad was low and you added water/anti freeze you may have ended up with an air lock ?

It should be kicking out at least some heat, even if the stat is stuck open.
Air lock or too low on coolant ?

dave1987

I would think it would be a thermostat issue. But then again, you should still have a working heater even if your thermostat isn't working.

Now the question is, what is the thermostat you are using rated for? My 78 and my 73 both use 192 degree thermostats year round, but I am thinking the 78 will be getting a 160 installed for the summer since it is creeping up to 200 on warm days here.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

tinkerman73

Well, interesting subject here. The other day driving my Pinto home, stopped at the parts store for another exhaust piece. When I came out, she had peed a little out of the overflow tube on the radiator. So I replaced the thermostate and gasket as well as the radiator cap. Now, they had a $2.00 thermostate, or a $2.50 pressure release thermostat(wich I ahve always preferred) and a $8.00 special order thermostat. Well, I got the pressure release cap. Also they had a dollar Felpro thermostat gasket or a $7.00 thick one with rubber seal wich was special order. I opted for the cheapy. Likewise, they had a cheap $6.00 thermostat, or a $8.00 special order one. I opted for the $6 one. Now, the car runs cooler then ever! However, this creates a new issue. I am no longer getting any heat! Would this be my radiator cap, or the thermostat? I think I will try the old radiator cap. But heck. Has anyone else here had this kind of cooling issue? I mean heating issue? LOL. I dont like having cold feet when they are wet after a day of working in the rain! LOL. Thanks.
Jody Michielsen