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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

My 1977 Runabout

Started by Hobbesga, December 11, 2010, 06:49:24 PM

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71pintoracer

Wow! super nice find!! That is a Starsky & Hutch car and looks to be in great shape. Be very careful about the rubber portion of the brake line, they do indeed deteriorate from the inside out. That would be #1 on my things to replace list. Looks like you are are covering the bases on getting it started/running/driveable. Oh, BTW, that brass float on the sender...still available at your friendly Ford dealer! (just in case yours doesn't hold)
The '77-'78 body style is my second favorite (after the '71's!!) :)
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

Hobbesga

Quick post for now... the rear axle went back together and bolted up with no problems. The transmission is a different story altogether. I ordered the new filter and gasket on Sunday and went out this morning to drop the pan and scrape the gasket off. This was a dirty job that resulted in everything within 20 feet of the car being covered in ATF. After I got the pan dropped I ran up to Autozone to pickup my new gasket and filter. While I was there i grabbed some gear oil and transmission fluid (the correct fluid appears to be Dexron-II but where do you find that stuff?). I ended up picking up some Dex/Merc fluid that appears to be a good substitute (if you know any different then please speak now). I came home and finished scraping off the old gasket and got ready to install the new filter and gasket... I grabbed up the package and started to tear into it when I noticed that the gasket only had 11 holes... A C4 gasket and filter? So, I started calling around and everyone insists that this is the correct gasket. So after a couple of hours on the phone I finally found a shop that knew what I was looking for. It should be in by lunch time tomorrow.

I've still got some work to do on the tires apparently. After getting called back today it seems like the Milestar tires that I had picked out are no longer being manufactured as of last year. And they looked so good with the large whitewall on them... not to mention cheap. I finally found a place that has Maxxis tires in whitewall and in the size I want, but they want $444.24 for 5 of them, which being more than I paid for the car made me choke. I think the tires are only really about $52 each and I may have found someone who'll mount and balance all 5 for about $40 so I may be just going to pick up the loose tires and deal with the rest on my on.

I just wanted to mention that if you've never tasted transmission fluid, you don't know what you're missing out on. Try using it instead of BBQ sauce the next time you grill, I promise you want regret it! Not only that, but it made my skin so soft and smooth, did an excellent job rinsing out my contacts, and was an absolute marvel as a floor cleaner. I'll bet it even acts as a fertilizer and makes the grass grow where I spilled it. Hell, throw a gallon on the kitchen floor before the misses gets home tomorrow and it'll probably make the floor shine like it was brand new.

HB

Hobbesga

A cold one here today. Hard to do much out in the yard. Since being divorced I don't exactly have a garage anymore, I've been doing the work so far on a trailer in the yard. It barely broke 50 today in the sunlight and that wasn't counting the stiff breeze we had blowing.

New brake master cylinder went on without too many problems. I've got the lines filled up with fluid and I'll be bleeding the brakes in the near future. Eventually I'll have to replace the brake pads, but for now I'm going to leave the old ones on until I have a chance to drive the car a bit. I'd hate to ruin a new set of pads and shoes on these old rotors, but the old pads should work fine for at least long enough to scrub a layer of rust off of everything. Before I reconnected the brake lines I did push a good bit of fluid through them to make sure everything was clean.

Fought with the fill plug on the rear end for a while. Finally got it pulled out and dropped the pan on the rear end. 90W gear oil doesn't like to move much when it's cold out, but I did get the gasket scraped off. I'm going to hit the mating surfaces with a wire wheel brush tomorrow before I put the new gasket in and bolt everything up.

My float for the fuel tank held up after being submerged overnight. I'm going to be able to save it. The silver solder seemed to work fine, I don't believe gas will hurt it at all. But the tank may be in worse shape than I thought. I did remove some debris with a shop-vac today and I'll continue playing with that for the time being.

If anyone uses a shop-vac on a regular basis I'll tell you this little trick... A wet / dry shop-vac can be a pain to use if you're constantly switching back and forth, mainly because you have to remove the paper every time before you use it to pick-up any kind of fluids. However, if you take  a 5-gallon bucket with the lid still on (I'm using an old hydraulic fluid bucket that has the pour spout built in) you can drill a hole in the lid to attach a small hose (I'm using a rubber grommet but caulk would probably work). That way, when you need to suddenly pick up some fluid, all you have to do is stick the end of the shop-vac hose into the pour spout. As long as the bucket seals up, your small hose will have suction and be able to pick up fluid without having to remove that paper filter everytime. It's worked for me to get the old gas out of the tank and the old brake fluid. My bucket is sealed up well enough that when you put your finger over the end of the tube you can actually see the bucket lid zoop in slightly (that's a good indication of a solid vacuum).

Still running into some problems finding tires for the car, but I've managed to locate some that will work. So far +/- $60 per tire mounted and balanced seems to be the best price I've been able to find, but I haven't found any tires with the whitewall yet (at least not for a reasonable price). I'd still love to hear any input you guys might have on the matter.

Other than popping the fuel filter on and fixing a vacuum leak, that's all I really got accomplished today (which I remember working on it for a good bit of the day, but it seems pitiful progress now that I've typed it all out).

By the way, I'm working on this car with the intention of getting it back in running condition as quickly as possible. Once it's on the road I'll know whether I've got a project I really want to take on and I'm going to start working on restoring the car. My question to you all is this... If you're restoring an all original car and want to keep it as factory as possible, where do you draw the line? I don't think recovering the seats is an issue, I'd prefer recovering to replacing them. Do you dye the carpet or replace it? Things like that. At what point does it stop being an original car?

Hobbes

75bobcatv6

Quote from: Hobbesga on December 12, 2010, 05:59:56 PM
)

TRIM                          PN                    I can't find a thing about this trim code


That trim code is the Starsky and Hutch one. a member on the car clyb has one of these cars. they are Quite rare from what I hear your the second PN code car that I have seen on the forum. Grats. talk to StarskyandHutch on here he can fill you in with anything about that car you might need to know

Hobbesga

Appreciate that info on the plug gaps.

Found out today that finding tires was a little strange. The only thing I could find that would fit are designated as trailer tires. I'm going to try again tomorrow when more of the shops are open. The car has 165/80B13's on it now. I'm going to check and see if I can find some white wall tires to go on it. Does anyone have any advice on tire sizes with the factory rims? I'm sure the tire shop will help me out on that one, but if you if anyone's had any experience with it, I'd like to hear your input because as far as I can tell A78-13 & A70-13 translate into exactly what is on it. The paperwork I have on the car also indicates B78-13, BR78-13 & BR70-13 are also acceptable... my best guess this would be 175/80-13.

I went today and ordered some parts which should arrive here tomorrow morning, though it may be too cold to get on and spend much time wrenching on the car. The transmission filter and gasket I need is a thirteen bolt pattern, the only ones I could find in stock were 11 bolts. Also in that order is a rear axle hub gasket, which is an 8 bolt pattern that wasn't in stock either. And my brake master cylinder should be arriving as well.

Ran into a strange problem with the brake lines today. After sitting for so long the brake lines had become clogged with some kind of sediment/corrosion. The only place the lines clogged was at the rubber hose sections going into the calipers up front and just before the splitter at the rear axle. I'd never seen brake fluid do that before, but I removed the lines and rodded them out until they would pass air. I'll be putting them back on, until I see that the car seems to be running fairly well. After that I may find that they need to be replaced soon, but for now they seem to be in pretty decent shape. The brake fluid inside the calipers and the steel lines all looked clean, but at the hoses that had congealed into a solid mass.

Pulling the gas tanks pickup and fuel level gauge showed me just how bad the tank has varnished. After cleaning up the fuel pickup unit I tested it with a multimeter and the fuel level sender seems to show resistance like it should. I think I'll be able to reuse that piece, but I picked up some new rubber fuel line to replace several sections with. I also bought an inline fuel filter to install before the pump, as well as the stock fuel filter for the carb. I'm hoping to just remove the loose debris from the tank and run it like it is. After the the car gets moving and passes some fuel through the tank I'll check the new inline filter and see if it warrants dropping the tank to do some cleaning inside, but trying to clean the pickup showed me the varnish doesn't seem to dissolve very well in regular gas. I'll post how this works out so if it's a mistake no one else does it too.

Another issue that came up with the fuel level gauge was the float. On this car it's a small brass? barrel shaped piece that had cracked and let fuel leak into it. I've tried to fill in the holes with some silver solder and I'm letting it soak in water overnight to see if it still leaks or I've managed to seal it up. So if your fuel gauge stops working that may be a suspect for you as well.

All in all, it's been a long day with little progress but with many a wrench turned. I'll keep posting through the next few weeks, as of right now my goal is to try and have it driveable by the first of the year. I guess we'll see how that pans out.

And a request for helping me find information...(again)

The codes off of the driver's side door jamb...
COLOR                      9D                      (I've seen this shown as Polar White, Herron White or just plain White)
DSO                          24                      Jacksonville, FL
BODY                        64B                   3 Door Sedan
TRIM                          PN                    I can't find a thing about this trim code
SCH. DATE                24B                   Huh?
AXLE                         4                        3.18 Conventional
TRANS                      V                        C-3 A/T
A/C                           A                        Yes

If I've got something wrong, or you know one I couldn't find, please let me know.

dave1987

I run .034 or .035 on my 78's 2.3l motor. .034 is what the parts shops write on my plug boxes, but depending on which gauge I have with me (one doesn't have .034), I'll run .035 without any noticeable changes in drivability or mpg.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

Hobbesga

I've never tried to crank a car that's sat for so long before, so I was a little nervous about it.

It just dawned on me that in my tinkering so far the one thing I hadn't tried was the horn, so I put on my boots and jacket and ran outside in the dark to try it. Horn works too!!! So far, I'm still excited by the little things. Every single little thing that still works is one less thing that I have to work on.

I'm trying to get some repair manuals shipped to me for the car. As of right now, I don't yet have them. So if any of you guys could help me with some basic info I'd appreciate it. Like for instance, what's the proper spark plug gap? I just guessed and slapped them in today. (2.3L engine)

dga57

Hey, you have to start somewhere!  I'd say you had a pretty productive day.  It sounds like you covered your bases so no,  I don't  think you screwed up.

Dwayne :smile:
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

Hobbesga









Since it was recommended I move this thread to here I hope some of you guys will forgive me for repeating myself...

Just got the car towed in the yard a few hours ago. All I've done so far is give it a quick once over with some soap and water. Tomorrow I'm going to start working on it to see if I can get it to crank. I know these aren't the best pictures, but you have to start somewhere. As you can see, i've got some work to do to stop the rusting before it takes off any worse. As of right now the rust really isn't that bad. It looks like it covers some areas, but it appears to be mainly surface rust making the paint peel away, underneath all of the metal is solid. I hope I've caught it in plenty of time to save this car. I guess technically I'm the 4th owner, but I bought it from an older guy who stopped his mom from scrapping it after his dad passed away, his dad was the only person who ever titled the car and drove it, so I'm calliing it a 1 owner car (it just makes me feel better to think of it that way). I talked him into selling it to me for $300. He didn't want to so I asked him if he'd just give it to me. $300 ended up being the price.

BTW, it appears to be all original with no modifications or repairs (and even the cigarette lighter still works).


(That was posted on Friday the 10th.)

Now at the end of the day on Saturday the 11th...

The car hasn't been driven in 20 years as near as I can tell. The original owner kept service records which I acquired along with the manual and window sticker shown in the pictures above. Those records run from 1980-1989. I believe he actual bought the car in 1978 and judging by the records I do have had it serviced at the ford dealership. The service records show odometer readings on most, so I know that the 77k miles shown on the odometer isn't really 177k. He passed away about 1990 and the car wasn't really driven much after that. I even found a phone book for 1989-90 under the driver seat which kind of reinforces that to me.

So, I went into today armed with a can of carb cleaner, a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, and a new battery. After removing the belt for the A/C compressor, I cleaned the carb (by which I mean, I sprayed carb cleaner in it until it started moving freely). Then I removed the spark plugs and dropped some Marvel Mystery Oil on top of the cylinders. While that soaked in, I put a new battery on the ground next to the car and just ran some wires to the solenoid and ground tether. I unhooked the fuel line just before the fuel pump and brought over a gas tank for a boat (without mixed gas in it) and hooked it up to the pump. I changed the oil, new filter, and new spark plugs. I rolled the engine over just enough to prime the oil pump, dumped in some coolant, and turned the key... the car started and ran a little rough, which considering several of the vacuum lines were off and the breather was 20 feet away I don't think is really a problem. It did smoke some (not too bad, it was mostly a white color) but I'm hoping that was mostly the Marvel Mystery Oil. It seemed to go into gear and moved in drive and reverse a short ways, which I believe is the first time it's moved under it's on power at all in quite some time. The transmission fluid looks fine, the power steering fluid looks good, but the brake fluid is rather nasty. Tomorrow I'll start breaking down the wheels (checking the calipers and re-packing the bearings) and based on the clog and my luck blowing air through the system I'll probably be going to check prices on a new master cylinder and maybe some calipers and pads.

So, anybody think I screwed up starting the car like that?

And I forget who asked, but I have all 4 beauty rings and small center caps for the wheels.