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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Post-Paint (enamel) questions for the paint gurus

Started by popbumper, June 25, 2010, 12:54:29 PM

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dave1987

Agreed that spray cans are hard to paint with and gain the desired result. I used to two custom computer case paint jobs when I was a teen (about seven years ago to be exact). I painted three or four before attempting the paint job of my imagination. The three-four cases I did before wern't perfect, but each one got better and better.

What I learned was to take it slow and several light coats. Primer is the easy part, a few coats, sand with 600, few more coats, sand, few more coats, then paint. After about five or six light coats of paint, I would sand it down with 800 grit and do three more light coats, then sand with 1000 grit and begin to clear coat it using the same technique, but not sanding with the 1000 grit.

The results from the patience and time invested into that paint job were amazing, I couldn't believe I did it all myself! It was black and silver two-tone, the silver fading into the black from the bottom up about half way.

The paint on that case is still sticking to it, and doesn't flake and peel like other painted surfaces I have done in the past. It actually CHIPS like paint on my car does. I believe this was more a part of the proper prep (ultra clean surfaces and proper priming), and sanding between coats.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dga57

Chris,

Any of the suggestions which have already been offered should take care of your overspray problem.  The main thing is to be patient and don't rush it... considering the restoration you're doing, I think you have that concept down pat! 

Rattle cans (and I have definitely used them, both OTC and custom-matched) are convenient, but you are a bit more limited with them than you are with a spray gun.  The biggest problem most people experience however, is technique.  There is a knack to getting the paint on the metal, getting adequate coverage, maintaining shine, etc.  A lot of it is in the wrist action, but the speed of your sweep and the distance you maintain from the surface are all important.
So are temperature and humidity.  From what you're describing, I suspect a little polishing will do the trick... if not, clearcoat is definitely an option. 

I learned to paint many years ago by dragging home old body panels from the junkyard to practice on.  Made a heck of a mess, but it was time well spent.

Good luck!

Dwayne :smile:
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

apintonut

plz note i have never painted a hole car (other than w/ spray cans) but i have done a tone of matching w/spray cans and i hafta say i would stay away from clear if u can make it a last attempt u bout  paint from a auto paint store that put into a can custom for u? i have fond that the dupli-colors sold @ shucks often works better if u match the paint code in there book and door of ur car  i would use some 1500+ wet sand and some patients less is more when working with metallic as the more u sand the lighter it will get then use some polish to make it shine if it is to light some collar back polish if u can find it to match ur collar (what collar are we working with here?)
like i said im am not a pro hear most of the time im doing this to car im trying to flip about 90% of the time im happy with how it comes out some time i end up repainting the hole thing with a different brand of paint if u go this rout sand it with some 800grit and prim this some time is the bet way to go. then beat ur head against it of 30hrs for a fender

can we get some pic?
74 hatch soon to be turbo 2.3
73 sedan soon to be painted
stiletto parts(4 sale)
79 pinto wagon & beentoad
wtb 75 yellow w/ black int. (rally?) like profile pic.

popbumper

Thanks OhSix and Starsky 78. I sure wish more folks would have chimed in but this is helpful.

I went by the paint store this morning and they explained to me that the enamel loaded in spray cans had no hardener added, so it would take longer to harden. They also sold me a "clay bar" to remove overspray.

I will let the paint cure for another week before I do anything, I'll probably hit it with the clay bar and polishing compound, maybe even go for clearing it. Thanks again.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

OhSix9

overspray , try a clay bar or a little polishing compound.  since most of this stuff really takes from days to months to really finish solvent letting and curing you could also use a quick wipe with an appropriate thinner followed by soap and water to prevent it from eating the paint below with a really good probability of success and without altering the shine of the original finish causing you to polish the whole car..   try your thinner on some factory paint where you can hide it first if it does dull or affect it.

lack of gloss is a couple of things. 1. if it was overly warm and it dries to fast that can cause issues. 2 metallics are tough to start with and you are using bombs they tend to be stripey so you have to "fog" the final coat for consistency which causes dry spray and can kill the shine.   really my suggestion on that front if it looks nice and even in terms of coverage and isn't over 48 hours old would be to tack rag it and cover it with a compatible clear. if its older a quick scuff with red scotchbrite pad and then clear.
if you own a compressor buy a cheap gun. you can then use 2 part paints and most importantly use temperature appropriate reducers. plus it is way way way cheaper by the quart or gallon vs spray can.  its enamel so even a tremclad clear would do the dew.

honestly clear fixes all. i just sprayed a single stage satin that damn near drove me over the edge.  different shine every time the weather changed, stripey infuriating shizod . never ever ever again.  would have solved the problem with a clear myself but noooo.... i was spraying for the effect and had to stay with a single stage

good luck. hope it works out for ya

OhSix'
Modest beginnings start with the single blow of a horn man..    Now when you get through with this thing every dickhead in the world is gonna wanna own it.   Do you know anything at all about the internal combustion engine?

Virgil to Sid

popbumper

Thanks for the guidance. Yes, it is paint with overspray on it. I will also use a fine grit paper as you suggest, not sure if I will add another coat of clear or not.

Anyone else?

CHris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

78_starsky

Hi,  I'm going to try and help you out here.  The overspray you can try a cut polish, I like the Meguir's #9 as it is paint friendly and works well, what I am saying is that you need something with abrasives to remove the overspray from a finished surface and something that is not going to cut too deep into your existing paint, if it is paint that the overspray is on?

Lack of gloss, I have never had a can loaded with paint but I believe it would be impossible for them to add the harder as it would "kick" in the can.  So saying that the spray bomb paint would not shine up as well as if it was mixed properly as the hardeners and reducers slow the paint process to keep the shine.  You could grab yourself a can of clear, not laquer or it will eat through it, but a urathane or enamel and spray over it.  You can gently water sand metallics, using a 800 or more wet and dry before you clear over it.  Hope this helps.

Angie

popbumper

Hey all:

  Got my engine compartment covered after much toil and prep. Here's what I did and what I need help with. I loaded spray cans with factory matched enamel, perhaps not the best process, but easier to manage (IMHO) than a gun. Sadly, not the best results - adequate, but that's why I am here asking:

   Issue #1: Overspray - how does one remove the overspray from adjacent panels? There are areas that feel "rough" to the touch, and I know it's overspray, not surface prep. How to tackle?

   Issue #2: Lack of gloss - I suspect perhaps that the paint was not well suited for spray cans, being a metallic, or perhaps it was conditions (spraying in very hot weather). The final coat is shiny, but NOT "super shiny" as I would have expected. Can enamel be sanded with a fine paper and then rubbed out/polished for better gloss?

Any inputs appreciated, not overly disappointed with the results, but I would have liked it to turn out better. Just don't know what to do with the enamel - lacquer is a no-brainer. THANKS!

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08