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1977 Pinto Cruising Wagon FOR SALE

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1971 Pinto Do It Yourself Manual

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EARLY PINTO CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY
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1978 FORD PINTO PONY FOR SALE 17.000 MILES !!!!!!!!!!!!

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75 wagon need parts
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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Crazy Brys 1978 Pinto Wagon

Started by Crazybry79, August 13, 2009, 01:26:44 AM

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popbumper

Hey Bry:

  Drop spindle kits - EBAY of course, not sure where else. I had looked around for them, they are basically te same as the Mustang II spindles, so, there are lots of places to get those, you just need to do a web search. Sorry to be so vague, I had considered doing it myself but opted not to.

  On your comment about the 2.8 - I really struggled with this, trying to stay away from a V8 (front end heavy), not wanting necessarily to build a 2.3 (been done a lot), and going with a 2.8 since it was "different". I CONCUR with you about its shortcomings - non-attractive, not much horespower gain stock, and less aftermarket goodies. The appeal comes and goes....

  At this point I am leaning towards doing the 2.3 (heck, done, but there's a LOT of aftermarket speed goodies), or driving towards a more modern mill like the 3.8 or 4.0, which would get me fuel injection and modern components.

Choices, choices (read: money, money)  :lol:

Chris

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Crazybry79

PB...I have to say I am in the identical situation.

Where is a good place to find the drop spindle kits??

ALSO....I have been up in the air on what to do engine wise.  IN NO WAY do I mean to offend anyone, but the 2.8 repulses me.  Astheseticly, it is visually non-appealing.  Power wise, it is pathetic, especially amplified by its mated automatic transimission with efficiency losses.

The 302 conv is tempting.  I had a Mustang II Cobra II in my younger years, and loved it.  It would be fun to "Replicate" that car with this one.  Unfortunatly, I am also aware of the 302's effect on front weight bias.  Cost wise, its close to my last option....

I had also thought of building a naturally asparated 2.3/5spd car out of it.  I used to race Pro4's, which were full tube chassis, with 2.3's, and a 535 lift cam.  Sounds great, but barely streetable.


Well, I belive I found my solution tonight.  About 30 miles away, I bumped into a 88 Merkur, running and driving, for under a grand.  I figure I can part that out, keeping every bolt,bracket, pedal, and what not I need (oh ya...its a 5spd car!) and sell all the left over parts, and recoupe my investment for the most part!


Like I said...not to offend anyone, and I know there are alot of different schools of thought.....this one is just mine.
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

popbumper

Hard to know always what to do. While I was on my front end, I figured it was the right time to replace everything - of course, at a cost - but I did not want to have to tear into it again. I installed new calipers, pads, rotors, hoses, bushings, ball joints, shocks, and springs, making it 100%. Only regret - and not one that would be too tough if I decided to go back - I wanted to do a bigger brake setup and possibly a 5 hub rotor. I opted not right at this time, to save soem money for other things.

When all is said and done my suspension will be 100% new. The rear end will most likely be replaced this fall with an 8" 3:55. I plan to also install new rear springs. I want the car to be mechanically new (engine stuff to be done ultimately as well), and cosmetics will be last. Interior is stripped, body work is last.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Crazybry79

Im thinking she wont be done this fall.  Im shooting for summer/fall of 2010 for a completion date.  Im planning the entire rebuild to be a nickle and dime thing.  Well,,,,so far its been a $20 and $100 thing....  But I do greatly appreciate your offer!

Yes, the new ball joints will be bolt in.  IF I would have been using my head, I would have just ordered the 2" drop kit that includes everything - spindles, rotors, new caliper mounts, metric calipers, wheel bearings, caps, and rotors......But I wasnt.  It would actually be cheaper than buying all new stock parts.  Either way, the parts will ALL be new....just havent decided which way to go yet...
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

popbumper

Ah yes, VERY nice work, and certainly you are stirring up memories for me!! Best wishes getting it all back together. You going with new calipers and rotors? 4 bolt or 5 bolt? Brake upgrades?

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

78squirewagon

HURRY UP!!!!  You need to bring it down to West Allis on October 4th for the show or at least to the Milwaukee Mile on October 10th for the Walk for Diabetes. I will cover your entry fee's for both if you can make one or the other. If you do, there will be at least four Pinto's on display (or more if I can ask a few others to join us)  ;D
1978 Squire wagon,red, 69000 and counting original miles

1978 Hatchback, red (built four days after  the Squire)

Srt

bolt in ball joints?  is the car lowered or is it going to be lowered?
the only substitute for cubic inches is BOOST!!!

Crazybry79

As sated, the parts came back from finishing.  I am undoubetely satisfied.  Even during my clumbsy reassembly, they are chip free!

The finish is a Urothane (sp??) baked finish.  Wet paint is applied electrostaticly, and then baked on for a rock hard finish.  Parts are prepped by baking them at 350 degrees to burn oils out of the metal.

My parts were done at Qualit Painters, in Chilton.  The owner said he would be happy to have parts shipped in, refinished, and return shipped.
If anyone is interested, their contact is (920)849-2333.  Ask for Bill Hostetler, and tell him it would be similar to "Crazy Brys Pinto Project"

And for all of us photo loving fans....
Finished A Arm


A Arms and control arms, along with assembled stock spindle& dust sheild




Spindle



Lower installed


Orange spring set in place


A Arm installed....sans new nuts >:(


A Arms installed



Now I just wait for ball joints!
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

Crazybry79

Well, the parts are all assembled now.  Pressing the bushings in was a pain in the arse!

TIP: For those who decide to undergo this project, learn from my mistakes, and follow these tips.....
1. Dissasemble the bushings.  There are 3 parts to each bushing - an outer shell, the neoprene bushing, and the inner sleeve.  Simply hold the shell in your hand, and tap the bushing/sleeve out with a rubber mallet.  The lowersare a tad difficult, but its worth your trouble.
2. Start the upper sleves both, insert the cross rod, put several large washers on, and then the nuts on the outside.  Tighten the nuts up to draw the shells into the A Arm - but dont ovr do it.  Once started, they will drive n with a brass hammer just fine.
3.When you insert the cross rod, make sure that the textured surface that mates up against the A Arm frame mount is down when the bend of th cross rod is pointed inwards.
4. The lowers should be pressed in with a hydralic press.  If you do not have one, a shop will do it for you for around $25 - money well spent.  When pressing the bushings in, cut a peice of scrap steel to fit inside the control arm to keep it from colapsing.
5. Insert bushings and reassemble!


I only have the drivers side painted, so assembly this evening consists of just that side.  I also forgot to get new nuts for the A Arm mounting bolts....uuurg!  Project for tommorrow.
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

75bobcatv6

That is most definitely cheap.  Nice catch and nice find Grats man

Crazybry79

Well, I just bought a Rally gauge pack for (what I think) is cheap.  The seller misspelled gauge and rally....so I dont think most buyers saw it...  Even comes with wiring harness and 3 gauge.....I mean guage cluster!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320414079269&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

Crazybry79

Chris,

Thanx for your interest.  Everything on this car has been a dream to work on.  The two mounting bolts that hold the rack on I broke loose with a 3/8 ratchet and an open end.  The nuts spun off by hand.  The right side bolt was unable to be removed, due to obstructions, and is now just sitting in the hole.

I called for a rack today.  $140, with new inner rod ends (mine NNEEEEDDed new ones anyways).  Unfortunatly, I have only found a stock gear ratio.  I am looking for a slightly quicker ratio.....if anyone knows a source for these, please lemme know!
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

popbumper

NIce work on the inner fenders - it will be great once you get all the parts back in, restored. Awesome. Yup, you need a new rack, no doubt. As around here for the gauge cluster plastic piece - someone will have one for you.

PS - how tough was it to pull the rack? Were the two nuts that held it on the crossmember a bear to get off?

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Crazybry79

Back to the rack thing....well, it threw up on the floor.  I'm thinking its time for a new one!




I was also digging around inside the car, and after reading some posts on what the plastic behind/that holds the gauges tends to do, I looked a bit closer......

It is apparent to me that my plastic has long by taken it final resting....I did find a ralley gauauge cluster, with the 3 seperate gauges....but that plastic appears to be pretty far gone....so Im looking for ideas on this one for the future!
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

Crazybry79

Well, I have been patiently waiting for my parts to be finished.  Today I had the bike out, and the phone rang.....parts are done.  Well, I didnt have time to go pick them up....but they are in the works for tommorrow moring.

Anyways, I have been failing on my updates, so Ill pick up wheree I left off.
I laid on the ground, and pressure washed the entire bare front end.  Heres what I ended up with.



I decided to go with a know epoxy paint.  I used it on my horse trailer, and t has held up well.  I pay quite dearly for it....but its well worth it!  Here is what I ended up with on the drivers side fenderwell.  Its so shiney, its hard to look at.  And BTW, the runs are original - not from me!



Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

Crazybry79

Rob- Thanx for the tips.   I was kind leaning towards a new rack.  I found several on Ebay for less than $150....with inner and outer rod ends.  Local parts store wants 50 and 35 each for inner and outter ends (that total is MORE than the rack with those items....!!lol)

Good news about the finishing of the parts.  I spoke with the owner of the powder coating shop today.  I met with him, and asked if it was still possible to powder coat all the parts- 2 control arms, 2 a arms, 2 strut rods, 2 spindles, 2 brake mounts, 2 springs.   He said SURE!!   But wait.....the spring flexes, so he offered to urothane (sp??) wet paint them, and bake them.  I guess John Deere just switched from powder coating to this process because its more cost effective, this finish is just as good, if not better, and it stays semi flexable.  ANYways, they are going to do all my parts - including heat preping (to reove oils in the metal that will destroy the finish later) for $150   :hypno:

Now the only question left is color choice.  I have decided to go with black for the main components.  The car will be black in the end as well.  I am stuck between orange and red for the accessories (springs, small brakets, ect)
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

78txpony

I do not know how easy it is to reseal those racks, or if the seals are even available.  Since those outer seals are failing, it is very possible other seals will fail soon also.  I would suggest a new one (look for the lifetime warranties) if you plan to keep the car a long while, which I bet you will. You may want to do that after your suspension is rebuilt so that you can replace the tie rod ends also and only do a wheel alignment once... If the hydraulic hoses need replacing (cracked or leaking), that is a good time to do that also. 
-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster

Crazybry79

Quote from: 78squirewagon on August 15, 2009, 10:43:08 AM
Where in Wisconsin are you because i am in the Milwaukee area. I have two 78 squire wagons as well as coupe. It would be nice to meet up with other Pinto owners in the area

Im about 60 minutes due north of Milwalkee, in Chilton.



And 78TX, thanx for the tip on the PS.  May I just replace a seal, or am I better off with a reman rack?
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

78txpony

I went through that front end rebuild on my 78 also about 6 years ago.  My bolts took an impact wrench to get them off but were easily reusable. 
It was not too nasty under mine, but I washed it up good before I started pulling it apart. 
After 120k miles the wear was not even that bad to my surprise.  However I redid it all except the springs. 

BTW, power steering fluid in the dust boot means a seal is failing.  The boots should never have liquid in them...
-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster

popbumper

Quote from: Crazybry79 on August 15, 2009, 02:57:44 AM
PB   Thanx for the tips.  Looking into POR15 now.   

My god, I can only picture what you guys went through on your control arm bolts.  I had to break them loose with a 3/8 socket/wrench, and spun them off by hand..... :showback:   lol sorry.  I tell ya what, the next restor I do, is GONNA be another AZ car!

Well, on my lower control arm bolts, we had to use a Sawzall, and it took a LONG time to cut them, being grade 8 bolts. Sad part? this car lived in Texas all it's life (and is in pretty solid shape aside from some rust in the cowl and passenger inner fender). While I did not expect the bolts to be that ornery, they were.

Lesson? Some bolts, no matter what part of the country they are in, just love to rust and be resistant.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

78squirewagon

Where in Wisconsin are you because i am in the Milwaukee area. I have two 78 squire wagons as well as coupe. It would be nice to meet up with other Pinto owners in the area
1978 Squire wagon,red, 69000 and counting original miles

1978 Hatchback, red (built four days after  the Squire)

Crazybry79

PB   Thanx for the tips.  Looking into POR15 now.   

My god, I can only picture what you guys went through on your control arm bolts.  I had to break them loose with a 3/8 socket/wrench, and spun them off by hand..... :showback:   lol sorry.  I tell ya what, the next restor I do, is GONNA be another AZ car!
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

popbumper

If I can make a suggestion, again according to how I finished my front end:

1) Sandblast
2) POR-15 basecoat
3) POR-15 chassis black
4) Topcoat color of your choice

This works very well and will give a super durable coating on all the suspension parts! Good luck.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Crazybry79

Everything is covered in 30 years of oil and sand sludge....



I went to check on my parts that went in for powder coating....and to my dismay, the powdercoating is no longer an option.  So it has become apparent that we will now be blasting and appling epoxy paint.  I belive the majority of the components will be black, and the accessories will be blue????  if I can find blue in epoxy...
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

Crazybry79

Quote from: dholvrsn on August 13, 2009, 09:36:21 AM
Round headlights on a '79.  :o
;)

DGH

lol...didnt see that....oops on my part. ::)

Thought Id throw some pics up of the rockers....like I said she's rust freeeee!




What a cute little V6


ANYways.  Got to dissassemble the left suspention


And get a good start on the passenger side.



Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......

dholvrsn

'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
'98 Dodge Ram 1500
'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser

popbumper

Crazybry:

  Welcome to the madness. Take a few minutes to look through the "Your Projects" folder on this site at my thread "popbumper's '76 wagon", and see what I did with my front end. I completed the restoration on this area this past May, it was a LOT of work but well worth it. I wish you success in your venture, keep us up to date. NIce to see new motivated members!!

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

dga57

You are an inspiration!  I bought my '72 in January of 2008 and haven't accomplished much of anything with it either.  Maybe there is hope for me yet!
Like Becky, I'm jealous of your garage... if I had that, only two of my vehicles would be sitting outside!  Best of luck with your project.  Keep us informed!

Dwayne :smile:
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

blupinto

Hi Crazy Bry! You don't sound crazy- you sound smart!  :D I'm a little bit jealous (okay a LOT jealous! lol.) of your 4-car garage. I could rescue more Pintos (when cash frees up) asnd still have room for my shlag. Your wagon (the 1st pic- the others didn't show. Thanks msn 9.6) looks like it's root beer brown. I can see she'll have a good, long life with you.  ;D
One can never have too many Pintos!

Crazybry79

As we began the disassembly, we started to run across problems - all recitifiable - but issues.  The wheel bearing grease came out in one lump chunk....on both wheels.  The passenger brake line was hand tight.  All of the ball joints are junk.  Both of the inner tie rod ends have at MINIMUM 1/2" of play in them....so Im glad I ordered new of everything.  I will say this, thogh - its nice working on a rust free car, all the bolts come loose, nothing is froze tight, ect.

The downfall - everything is covered in 1/2" of caked grease / sand mixture.  After everything was removed and stripped, I started cleaning underneith (pics hopefully tommorrow)

I pulled the rack to change the inner tie rod ends and to clean the cross memeber, and in doing so, I found power steering fluid in the drivers side dust boot......Im assuming thats not good - info is appreciated, but Im gonna check around tommorrow.


Updates comming soon!
Why do you park in a driveway, and drive in a parkway?  A cargo goes by ship, a shipmeny goes by truck.....You have a pair of panties, but just one bra......