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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

how do I install new driver's side glass on 1980 (Update)

Started by gearhead440, February 26, 2007, 10:02:26 AM

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gearhead440

I removed the wooden washers and went to Lowe's for some real pieces.  A nylon spacer, 1/2" diameter by 1/4" thick with a hole drilled in the middle works well.  I also picked up some rubber "washers" and a few stainless steel 1 1/2" washers with the correct size screws and nuts.  This allowed me to sandwich the glass between the 2 rubber washers with the nylon spacer in the window glass hole, place the 2 metal washers on the outside and slide the screw through and double nut it.  Took some maneuvering and colorful metaphors since the "access" holes are just about the size of my hands but it all tightened down.  I pushed the window to the top and attempted tightening but I think the window "slider arm thing" has just enough slop to prevent it for fully raising the window in the middle  :(.  The back part is fine, though.  "Curiouser and curiouser", said Alice.   :P
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

77turbopinto

My favorite: You can't loose if you don't play.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

gearhead440

 :lol:  My standard response is: "I know that I won't win anyway so why play?"  Your odds are better at getting struck by lightning than winning a state or "powerball" lottery.
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

77turbopinto

Take all the money that you would have wasted on tickets and put it toward a house.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

gearhead440

Thanks for the replys, Bill!  Since you are batting 1,000 on my questions, got any good lottery number picks?
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

77turbopinto

Any moisture that gets into the door will effect the wood.

There are adjustments that you can make to the window to get it to close correctly. I normally put the window as far up as it will go, duct tape it so it can't fall, then loosen the adjusters, put the window in the full closed position, and tighten the fasteners.

BTW: White grease will wash out over time. The original stuff will out survive roaches.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

gearhead440

Ok, so after nearly cutting off my left thumb removing the plastic washers that hold the glass to the lift bracket, I lost one of them - figures.  So I made one out of 1/8" thick pieces of wood cut to a 2" diameter.  The hole in the glass nicely accepts a 1/2" dowel rod so I drilled a hole in the center of the dowel rod, sawed it off to about 3/8" long and ran a screw through the center of every thing.  This actually works very well.  Whenever I re-assembled it all yesterday, I used the plastic pieces in the bracket hole located about the centerline of the door and the wooden washer in the bracket hole closest to the door latch.  The window moves up and down in the front track with no binding.  After a liberal coat of white grease, everything slides up and down well but now, the middle part of the window does not go all of the way up but the back part of the glass goes up nicely.  I can run my thumbnail all the way across the top in the middle of the window.  The original glass went all the way up with no problems.  Do I need to go back in, remove the plastic and put wooden pieces in to correct for the height difference?  Also, is there a place that makes the rubber pieces that go at the top of the door / window interface?  I need to replace this also, and maybe this will help.  Man, I really wish they wouldnt have broken out my window - what a PITA  >:(!
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

gearhead440

High_Horse,
Thanks for yor patience.  Due to my day job, I tend to over-engineer things a bit and will follow your advice.  If I would just have looked at your interior thread, I would have had my questions answered.  I, too, have used the heat roll around exhaust pipes for other projects and have some laying around (just like everything else) so I will take your advice.  Additionally, I will follow in your footsteps with the Rust Arrestor Extend, and Alex Plus from DAPP.  Since your carpet came with the padding, I'll just order it with the padding.  My interior will require nothing like the makeover that yours did but, man, you work wonders.  Thanks again!
GH
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

High_Horse

GearHead440,
      With all due respect I don't suggest anything with a moisture inpenetrable Layer. You will only breed rust. I have some heat tape that has been working way better then expected to cover your pipes with that I would be happy to send you. Anyway, I am curious to see your progress so please keep us abreast of your progress.

                                                        High_Horse
       
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

gearhead440

High_Horse,
Thanks for the info on the carpet and words of encouragement.  I have spray adhesive and also have some heat reflective matting I picked up a few years ago that I intend to place at the fire wall and floor pans where the exhaust will be routed.  It is a good 1/4" thick so that may help my carpet take up some "slack" if need be.  Also, I cleaned up the oil pan I fabbed a many years ago and it looks good.  Are you or do you know anyone using a windage tray?  I have one for a 302 Boss and intend on using it with the appropriate studs as long as there is no interference with the pan.  It is about time to start taking some pics of "progress" as it evolves.  Thanks and I'll keep you informed.
GH
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

High_Horse

GearHead440,
    Well I am glad you did not hurt yourself to bad. Some of those stampings are just as sharp as a razor. I bought my carpet from stockinteriors.com 130 shipped. It seems to fit ok. CookieBoy had a question about how it fit around the trans tunnel and I have to admit that mine could have been tighter but I don't know what he did or is doing about it. I probably could have threw mine in the pool for awhile and induced shrinkage but hindsight is always 20/20. Sounds like your having a good time. I always enjoy the small talk subject (What did you do yesterday?). And the answer.....Working on my Pinto....AAAHHHHH....HHHHAAAAAAAA!!!!!! Never had anyone say....Whats a Pinto. Keep it up GearHead440....Looking forward to riding with ya.
Don't use roof shingles....They don't breath....Use carpet padding with spray adheisive like I did in my picture....you can spray as you go and it removes easy if you want to later.
                                                              High_Horse
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

gearhead440

Well, the carpet was shot so I ripped it out - new carpet is now mandatory.  Floor pans are solid and original color.  Mounting brackets for Conquest seats arent even close so that will necessitate drilling new hole and using grade 8 bolts to retain them.  High Horse, thank you for the warning.  I was doing well until I had to use a chisel.  I was lucky and didnt cut my thumb on the door hole / window access opening as badly as I first thought.  I was worried until I cleaned it up.  No feeling on one side of it yet but hopefully it will heal with not further complications and I am current on my tetnus shot.  Thanks to all and remember to always wear your mechanics gloves. 
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

gearhead440

High Horse,
Have not done a trial fit of the seats yet but they do bolt through the floor.  They are leather, "wrap around" seats that are much more positionable than the original seats.  I also have some 73 seats for the real 70's look and feel but with my daily driver application I think I'll stick with the Conquest seats.  I have a black interior, black carpet, headliner, dash, seats, door panels, etc.  I took really good care of it "back in the day" and it is still in exceptional shape.  I've had it out of the weather and sunlight since 2000 but it is now outside due to other circumstances but it does provide motivation.  No current project pics yet but I do have a few from 20 years ago  :lol:.  I'll either have to borrow a digital or take money from the project fund to purchase one.  I can always take regular pics and scan them but I'm not sure of the quality - will see soon.  The rear only needs brakes and gear oil and it is ready to install.  Gas tank is waiting for a warm day for reinstall as well.  302 engine is rebuilt and is awaiting a good cam and heads to return from machine shop.  The only items I dont currently have in my possession are front end rebuild kit and shocks.  Everything else is just waiting to be installed and connected.  I'll have to play the exhaust routing and muffler placement by ear, using your pics as reference, when that time comes.

Turbo,
Thanks for the reminder about the plastic washers, bolts and locking nuts.  I'll be removing the carpet next weekend, 3/10/07, and will know at that time.  I took good care of it along the way and, as far as I know, there is only 1 hole in all of it on the passenger's side at where the kick panel meets the door frame.  I always used rubber floor mats front and rear so feet never touched the carpet for all the 20 years I've had it.  I'm hoping to slide a small piece of black carpet under this and call it good.  I also have heat padding / sound dampener for the fire wall / select places under the carpet.  One thing Ive seen used is roofing shingles on the floor board under the carpet to act as heat shield and sound deadener - still contemplating this one.  Once I get the carpet out and cleaned and if it survives, I'll look for some fabric dye.  The interior will require the least amount of work for the entire project since it is all there and in very good shape.  I am changing out the speedometer and guages, though, so some wiring will be requied.  Body work is also at a minimum but I will need a fresh coat of paint. 
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement! :yinyan:
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

77turbopinto

Don't forget to use the plastic washers when you re-intall the glass.

If your carpet has no holes, you can dye it back to it's original color (or close to it anyway) with vinyl dye. Use light applications and brush the carpet betweeen coats.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

High_Horse

GearHead 440,
        It really depends if the carpet has been garaged or exposed to allot of direct sunlight. Your not going to know unless you try to move it. You can get a new one though, mine fits nice. Hey!!! Did you say Conquest seats?? Are they bolted in?How do they fit?? GearHead did you ever post any pics of your car??

                                                                                                                                                             High_Horse

                                                                                                                           
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

gearhead440

77turbo & High_Horse,
Thank you both for the advice  :iloveu:.  I'll see what I can do about drilling and using appropriate reinstallation hardware and I'll make sure to wear some type of glove when I perform the work.  I already have to clean the glass out of the interior and inner door well so I dont need more glass in my face.  The worst part is that the body and interior are in very good shape, aside from some exterior patina, and I'm finally ready to begin some work in earnest.  I have new front seats from a Conquest (Pinto seats are fine, I just like the other ones) and the only thing that needs any attention is the carpet.  Since you have both been there, can the carpet be cleaned in some fashion or is replacement the way to go?  Considering it is 27 years old it may not survive the removal process, never mind the cleaning.  Thanks again :D
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

High_Horse

Gearhead440,
         Be exceptionally carefull.

                                                                 High_Horse
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

77turbopinto

If they are like th 77/78 like I think they are, you need to drill the rivets out of those two pins. To re-intall the glass you use bolts with lock nuts.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

gearhead440

Someone helped ventilate my 80 Pinto by breaking out the driver's side glass  :wow:.  Thanks to a kind individual I have a new one and am attempting to install it.  I noticed there are 2 circular things that attach the glass to the metal bar that raises and lowers the glass but I'm not sure how to remove them from the bar without breaking them and then reinstall.  By touch, it seems like there is a cotter pin or something on one side of the round pieces but I'm not sure.  Anyone done this and have a good way to install the glass?  Thanks  :peace:
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?