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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

battery bugaboo

Started by dholvrsn, August 02, 2006, 04:03:19 PM

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dholvrsn

Update, I may have found a contributing problem. The AC/heater motor may be seized or shorted.
'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
'98 Dodge Ram 1500
'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser

dholvrsn

The Pinto started right up after sitting for six days and held the voltage between 13 and 14. I hope that I'm over the worse of it.

I'm still going to yank the alternator out and bench test it for giggles when I get around to it.
'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
'98 Dodge Ram 1500
'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser

goodolboydws

It was a long day yesterday.
I forgot that on many older cars the alternator wires are generally all attached individually and not as a plug, but you still have to disconnect them or the nearest connector (if there is one) that is allowing current to flow "backwards" through the alternator.
Be careful whenever attaching or detatching the individual alternator wires as the battery is always supposed to be disconnected when you do this, to keep from possibly damaging the alternator or voltage regulator (which may be how it happened to begin with).  It's easier to simply disconnect the battery cable itself overnight, but that won't tell you WHERE the drain is coming from.

robw

i had a similar problem on my pinto when I bought it,my old man said it was the diodes in the alternator were shot so he gave me another alternator to try but still the same thing. I bought a new voltage regulator just for giggles and threw it in but make sure it is bolted to the body or has a good ground before you plug it in or it will burn it up. that seemed to fix my problem.maybe it is the same as yours.hope it helps.

goodolboydws

Having had lots of battery/charging system problems over the years, I sympathize.

There is a fairly common alternator problem that can lead to a continuous battery drain condition with the engine shut off.  I've had this same thing happen to me on at least 2 different Ford cars for certain, and know of it happening to other people as well.  In my case, after the first experience, I remembered what to look for. It was a simple part in the alternator that was replaced by the local starter/alternator shop and the problem was solved. I'm thinking that it was the diode array itself, but it's been a long while since the last incident.

If I remember the charging scenario correctly, if ONLY one of 3 diodes in an array burns out, and the other 2 are still working, then the other 2 remaining ones have to work much harder to attempt to keep the battery fully charged.  This may be part of what you are smelling.
The low voltage only being present at 1000 engine RPM or below dovetails nicely with this theory. Especially if you weren't running a heavy electrical load from power hungry accessories, which would make the part time undercharging more obvious and not go away until the engine was at a higher rpm. 

Passing on a tip from the alternator shop:
To see if this is what is actually draining your battery, try disconnecting the plug to the alternator over night, and check the battery voltage in the morning before trying to start the engine. Then leave the alternator connected over night the next night and compare the 2 readings.

If you have an intermittant problem with the part just starting to fail in the alternator, it may take a while before the problem surfaces again. This is what made it take a while to figure out on one of my cars. It didn't happen every day, but only occasionally at first, and then more and more frequently.

Something simple that gets overlooked in seaching for a charging related problem is poor electrical grounds, like from a broken or deteriorated wire that appears ok from the outside, or from a corroded terminal or an insufficient electrical contact due to dirt or rust.  Check yours, and clean or replace any that may be questionable.

One more thing, an alternators' output is dependent upon the ACTUAL speed at which the alternator itself is revolving, and is NOT completely dependent on the engines' speed, so if for some reason you have an incorrectly sized pulley on the alternator itself OR on the pulley that is driving that one, the alternator can be spinning at a VERY different speed than it should be, and it's output at any given engine RPM may be way out of spec as a result.  A more common reason for having a SLOWLY discharging battery (like over a week, BUT with the car being started and driven each day for example) is simply having too low of an idle speed setting.

dholvrsn

The next day the battery voltage held in the 12.5 to 13.75 range. I just think that the battery was just way low on that first day. Still keeping my eyeball on the electricals.

Since then I attempted to replace the timing belt and now the thing barely runs. I think that I accidnetally slipped a cog tooth, but that's going to be another thread.
'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
'98 Dodge Ram 1500
'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser

joecool85

Ok, here is the thing, if it's getting down to 11.5, your regulator or alternator isn't working.  Due to it being only below 1000rpm, I'd say the brushes in your alternator are worn down.  A fully charged battery should have 12.75volts on its own, 75% charge is 12.5 volts (thats where most cars are at all the time), 50% charge is about 12.25volts, and anything below 12volts you need a new battery.  This is with the car off and no load btw.  The alternator should be producing 13volts or more at idle and no more than 14.5volts maximum ever.  Newer cars hold it between 13.8-14.5volts all the time, older ones may dip to 13volts.  Hope that helps.  So like I said, you probably need a new alternator and regulator (or just a new style alt with reg built in) along with a battery.
Life is what you make it.
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dholvrsn

Here's an update. Put a VOM and later the gauge cluster on the car. With the new battery and regulator, it holds a solid 13.5 volts at above about 1000 RPM. Will dip as low as 11.5 V at idle.

(Also the temp got up to 170 degrees. 50 psi of oil pressure, which is quite good since the rings seem to be in their very early death throes>)

Here's sort of a puzzler: the battery was too low to start the thing after sitting six days. I put a DMM ammeter between the ground cable and post and get 0.00 amps across there. ???

Yes, I did briefly open the door to turn on the light to see if the thing was working. It worked to 0.7 amps worth....
'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
'98 Dodge Ram 1500
'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser

onefarmer

Yup, Had that happen back in the day. Cooked the battery pretty good. Replaced the regulator and the Batt and was back on the road. I was driving from Nashville Tn to home St.Johns Mi at the time, so it had a long time to cook.

dholvrsn

Have a gauge cluster with volt meter. It will be the next thing that I add.
'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
'98 Dodge Ram 1500
'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser

Blacksheep22

Find someone with a good volt ohm meter and hold it on the positive and negative posts of the battery, have someone else fire the car up and let it idle. Should show around battery voltage or a little higher. Tell them to gently start reving the car up, if the voltage goes up past 14.5 volts shut it off. The voltage should never go past 14.5 period. If it does its either the regulator or the wiring. My uncle has a 69 Chevy 4x4 that was having the same problem your having and had replaced EVERYTHING including the wiring and the regulators still kept going bad. I finaly just put a later model one on it and wired it in and eliminated the original regulator since the later ones have them built into the alternator. Dont know if there are any later model ford alternators that would swap as easy but if you cant fix it and arent worried about it being "original" might be something to consider. Hope this helps.
ps. You can put a GM alternator on there by some modifying but dont tell anyone else in here I mentioned using a GM part on a ford!  :lol:
71 Pinto Mini-Stock 1994 Track Champion
72 Pinto all original 63000
73 Pinto Wagon 2.0  4 Speed 8inch

Cookieboystoys

I had a problem similar to this many many years ago...

battery problems and over charging... I forget what was done to stop the battery from over charging...

but I do recall it was about the same time the electrical wiring went up in flames and had to get a whole new harness...

seems to me we replaced alt, regulator, battery, etc...

could be that replacing the harness was the fix... happened in about 1988

hope it's nothing serious like mine was
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

73pintogeek

Sound`s like an over-charging problem...regulator more than likley!
Just my 2 cent`s...hope this help`s... ;D
Rex
A bad day workin` on my Pinto is better than a good day at work!

dholvrsn

Had a two month old battery go to pot in my Pinto over the past couple of days. The previous battery died after only a year. So what are the chances of two batteries in a row having premature deaths?

Anyway, I changed the regulator out of suspicions. Was poking around and found that the black and yellow wire from the alternator to the solenoid was burned through at a connecter. The other two wires to the battery side of the solenoid have some homemade looking splices in them. Will do some soldering and shrink tubing later today.

Yesterday, I was doing a run and a few miles down the road I sniffed an electrical burning smell and then a few miles later a battery acid smell that was bad enough to make my skin itch and my fillings ache.

So was all of this stuff symptoms of causes of a bad battery?
'80 MPG Pony, '80-'92
'79 porthole wagon, '06-on
'80 trunk model. '17-on
-----
'98 Dodge Ram 1500
'95 Buick Riviera
'63 Studebaker Champ
'57 Studebaker Silver Hawk
'51 Studebaker Commander Starlight
'47 Studebaker Champion
'41 Studebaker Commander Land Cruiser