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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Front suspension question (Pinto handling and suspention questions)

Started by Starliner, August 18, 2007, 09:05:36 AM

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electrabishi

Thanks for the tips.  I just got the front end aligned a couple days ago.  It helped a little.  But it still has a little torque steer.  The numbers were all off, but at least they were even from side to side.  THe caster was -1.1*  (spec is +0.3 to +0.7)  With the taller springs and taller tires all they could get it back to was +0.1*.  Not quite spec, but much better.  But still have the problem.  Keith at Dutchmans Motorsports recommended checking the tire diameters since any variance between them would cause te Detroit to pull a little harder on the slower tire.  For example if one had a little more air pressure changing its rolling resistance. He recommended swapping the tires as a first test.  Then playing with the pressures to ensure they are as even as possible.  Mine is doing this on the street and the strip.  But getting the front end squared away has helped significantly.  I may even put a little taller tires on the front to bring the caster closer to +0.3*.  Might have to lower the rear a tad too to get the angle.  With the shorter 24" BFG Drag radials in back the car did not exhibit this problem.

Mike

Wittsend

Remember that a (well designed) street has road camber built into it.  That is what allows rain to drain to the side.  With all your weight, the locked rear and the traction bars they may be reacting to the design of the street itself.  I'd say to look at the relationship of the traction bars to the springs on a flat level surface and then a street.  If the snubbers look different, that might be the problem.

Be safe. BTY, I have the engine and complete system out of a Jet Industries, Electrica 007. Hope to be able to use it someday. It's the price of batteries that is killing me!
Tom

77turbopinto

Quote from: electrabishi on July 24, 2008, 01:23:21 AM
Great thread everyone.  I have a little different question.  The Electric Crazyhorse Pinto dragster has rear springs that are 2" taller and a lot stiffer to take the weight of the 850 lbs of batteries.  It hops the rear end up 3" higher than the sagging stock springs that were on it.  When I had the smaller BFG Drag Radials that were only 24" tall the car only seemed slightly nose down.  Under high power starts on the street where I might not be headed exactly straight I would notice a very slight stumble one direction but never when coming off the power hard.  Now with the 10" wide Hoosiers that are 28" tall the thing will just about jerk me off the road when accelerating and jerk me into oncoming traffic if I let off hard.  On the drag strip it does not pull either way on the launch at all. But during the shift and even worse when I let off at the end of the track it jerks something fierce.  I don't want to take it to the shop where they will give me a stock alignment.  What extra adjustments to the front end are recommended for a Pinto dragster thats jacked up in the rear?  The rear end is a 9" running a Detroit Locker and CalTracs bars.... 


With not driving the car myself I would have to guess that a big part of the problem with street driving the car is that streets are not FLAT like a dragway. Also, with the rear of the car elevated more, it changes the CASTER in the front more; this could make the car feel and act 'twitchy'. You might want to get it aligned to factory caster spec.s with the set-up you have now; it MIGHT help and it would be worth a try. Even with everything you have done, you will still have some roll-steer in the back end. I don't know much about drag racing and if a panhard bar would/could help (I know they help in cornering, but it still might help the car go strait). You could also experiment with the rear springs by changing the rates from side to side.

The increased power and weight of the car, different springs, and with the front/rear bias different from stock, the car will not act like a stock car would/could in every situation. I think you need to find a good 'middle ground' (where is it MOST important to handle well).

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

electrabishi

Great thread everyone.  I have a little different question.  The Electric Crazyhorse Pinto dragster has rear springs that are 2" taller and a lot stiffer to take the weight of the 850 lbs of batteries.  It hops the rear end up 3" higher than the sagging stock springs that were on it.  When I had the smaller BFG Drag Radials that were only 24" tall the car only seemed slightly nose down.  Under high power starts on the street where I might not be headed exactly straight I would notice a very slight stumble one direction but never when coming off the power hard.  Now with the 10" wide Hoosiers that are 28" tall the thing will just about jerk me off the road when accelerating and jerk me into oncoming traffic if I let off hard.  On the drag strip it does not pull either way on the launch at all. But during the shift and even worse when I let off at the end of the track it jerks something fierce.  I don't want to take it to the shop where they will give me a stock alignment.  What extra adjustments to the front end are recommended for a Pinto dragster thats jacked up in the rear?  The rear end is a 9" running a Detroit Locker and CalTracs bars. 

The car can be seen on this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMGomFODHk0

Mike

77turbopinto

I have looked at all the front bars I have ever had. What I found is the 'regular' Pinto bars are .885" and the C/W (maybe regular wagon too) bars are .915. I have been told the Mustang IIs have one of 2 bars, a 1" and a smaller one; I have the 1" in the photo.

Aside from putting the endlinks at an awckard angle (and snapping them), the MII bar even with the longer arms gives my car a better feel.

I have a 1" bar on my Bobcat auto-X car. It is neither a Pinto or MII bar, but it was wider than the MII bar. I used a pipe bender to bring the ends in to make it the correct width. I plan to do the same with my MII bar and put it back on the yellow car.


Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

Wittsend

I looked at the Mustang II interchange link Bill posted.  I was wondering if the Mustang II sway bar is the same diameter as the Pinto's.  I couldn't tell from te picture.  If it is then I don't think it would be an advantage.  The longer bar would just flex more and effectively be softer.  Anyway, I'm just curious.
Tom

gearhead440

With all of this good information on hand, I thought I would ask the all-knowing assembly.  I like the idea of reinforcing the lower control arms with some plate steel.  As far as the upper control arms go, there are now after market tubular UCA's available.  I'm sure they would provide some "help" as they would not flex as much as the stock UCA's but would they be worth the cost?  I'll use the PST poly kit, weld tle LCA's as instructed, and use V6 with A/C springs (very similar to V8 MII springs but shouldnt be quite as stiff) with my V8 swap :read:.  Any improvement in handling would be appreciated but if the cost outweighs the benefit, I'll stick with the stock UCA's.  Any thoughts or experience?
Thanks!
Speed is only a question of money: Just how fast do you want to go?

77turbopinto

Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

77turbopinto

Quote from: bobscat on March 27, 2008, 12:25:43 PM
I have a mustang II sway bar on my car, it bolted right on.  Granted, mine is from a v8 car, but I needed that because it contours around the oil pan on my 302

Yes, it will 'bolt on', but the end links are put at an angle and they tend to snap or pop the rubber out and wear on the bar.

(ask me how I know)


Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

bobscat

I have a mustang II sway bar on my car, it bolted right on.  Granted, mine is from a v8 car, but I needed that because it contours around the oil pan on my 302

nvrstock

so the only two things that you would actually want from a mustang II are the sway bars and V8 springs?

71HANTO

The difference in the front springs is the length of the spring unweighted. The 71-73 springs are 8" and the "74 up Pinto /mustang II" springs are 9.5-11.5". The way they mount on the perches is simular. I cut mustang II V8 springs to an unweighted length of 6.75" for my 71. It sounds radical but the V8 springs will not compress nearly as much under weight as the weak, soft originals. Especially given the reduced race weight up front (aluminum head, battery relocated, etc).
"Life is a series of close ones...'til the last one"...cfpjr

Pintony

Quote from: 77turbopinto on March 27, 2008, 06:04:49 AM
Plus: the anti-sway bars are different, and the springs MIGHT be different as well.


Bill
Good Point there Bill!!!
From Pintony

77turbopinto

Quote from: Pintony on March 26, 2008, 10:57:38 PM

Mustang II and 1974-80 Pinto share the same componets except the strut rod on the Mii has a different angle.
From Pintony

Plus: the anti-sway bars are different, and the springs MIGHT be different as well.


Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

Pintony

Quote from: nvrstock on March 26, 2008, 10:40:52 PM
Someone told me that putting mustang II front suspension on the pinto made it better. is that true? If it is what years/motor mustang II should i use?


Mustang II and 1974-80 Pinto share the same componets except the strut rod on the Mii has a different angle.
From Pintony

nvrstock

Someone told me that putting mustang II front suspension on the pinto made it better. is that true? If it is what years/motor mustang II should i use?

GFPRACING

I LOVE PINTO'S
HOW HARD IS IT TO MAKE 1  OF MY PINTO'S TURBO CHARGE

77turbopinto

Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

Starliner

Thanks a ton for all your time & information...Yep, "copy, paste, save!"
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

tony v

well, you could start with a kit from p-s-t.com. they sell the kits for the pinto and mustang. if you go with the kit, be sure to groove the inside of the bushings and install a zerk fitting to keep em' greased up. and to stiffen up the lower control arm. flip them upside down and weld a plate to the bottom of the arm to "cap" them. it will reduce the twisting of the formed arm by putting the cap on the bottom of the arm. a larger sway bar will work but like what was said earlier, if it is too large, it will flex the body out. me, i would go with the kit , weld the plates in the lower arm and connect the frame. and try that. if its not stiff enough go with a cage.  hope this helped at lease a little.  tony v :peace:
Rubber side down!!

fomogo

The Internets only Turbo Pinto forum.
www.turbopinto.com

77turbopinto

Thank you.

First off, do you want a "car" that handles, or a "Pinto" that handles? If you want a "car", DON'T use a Pinto.

Please understand that there are ALWAYS trade-offs when it comes to performance. If you want to make the car "look" a certain way, it might not handle 'better' that way. It is ALL about balance, and what you want the car to do (I.E., things that help the car turn might hurt it get going from a standing start).

IMHO: Shorter/wider/sticker tires will give you more improvement than "lowering", or most any other SINGLE thing. Get the tires you plan to run BEFORE doing ANY "lowering" to the car. The stock rear springs have a rate that is too stiff, by removing leafs, you can dial them in and lower the car at the same time. Leaf springs are not easy to 'dial-in'. I reccamend fully disassembling, inspecting, cleaning, and the use of motorcycle chain lube between the leafs. If there is dirt or rust INSIDE them, it could cause binding that will hinder performance. If you tune-in the leafs, you should keep the weight of the car off the leafs if you plan to park it for any length of time. Performance shocks are important, but very hard to find for a Pinto; you might need to modify your car to fit ones made for other cars. A panhard bar is a very good idea, however, there is not much room under the car to put one so you will need to be creative; be sure it is installed on a reinforced part of the floor, AND that it is parallel with the ground at normal ride height. An 8" rear is more than enough, and IMHO, the 9" will just add extra weight. The use of lowering blocks in the rear should be kept to a minimum as they tend to induce wheel hop, and roll-steer; although roll steer can be helpful in setting up a car for a circle track (where the turns are ALWAYS the same), for most 'road' style driving it can be too unpredictable. A large front sway bar will help overcome the low roll center that Pintos have, provided the lower control arms angle DOWN from the crossmember, even if only slightly. Once they go the the other way (up to the wheels), you loose neg. camber very quickly. A front bar that is too big can flex the body, and a rear bar might need to be added to balance the car. Relocating the front lower control arm inner mount points UP 3/4" will improve the roll center, but it requires trimming of the arm and a little work to the crossmember. A full cage will help stiffen the chassis; a stiff chassis will help you dial in the suspension. Cutting coil springs will INCREASE their rate (stiffer) as well as shorter. For the car: lighter is BETTER. Get a full front end alignment after ANY change/changes to to car. Poly bushings are a great idea too.

Changes that you make will effect how the car handles, sometimes good, sometimes bad, but driving the car on a closed or private road after making changes will help reduce the chances of damaging you, others and your car.

If you plan to run or race in any form, check the rule books before making any changes to your car.

Again, a Pinto can not be MADE to handle as well as some other cars do in full stock form without MAJOR time and money. If your goals are to have a good handling "CAR", a Pinto should not be your first choice.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

Starliner

Also throw in some rear end pointers.  Anyone ever added any rear control arms or Panhard rod to an 8 or 9 inch Ford.  Other ideas?   Not looking to drag race launch, want cornering. 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

Starliner

Bill, (and everyone else of course)

I admire your knowledge in Pinto handling.   
On another post you mention moving the lower A-arm mounting points to improve the roll center.

What recommendations would you have to make a 74-80 Pinto low & mean while being the best handling car possible (not dirt). 
I want a canyon carver & track car with a 4 cylinder Cosworth YBT.   I like the idea of lowered spindles versus lowered springs.  Give me your thoughts on that too.

It would be a real crazy project to weld up some towers to install a McPherson strut system like a Merkur!

Thanks
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy