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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Basic upgrades and maintainence help for a college kid.

Started by poisonpinto, March 21, 2006, 07:03:12 PM

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goodolboydws

If you haven't done these things already, the following is a short and incomplete list of things that are a good idea to do with any used car that you intend to keep very long and drive regularly.

First:
Get a spiral bound notebook and keep it in the glove compartment. Mark the front half  for fuel stops, split the remaining half into sections for fluids and filters, mechanical and body repairs,  and leave a small space for notes in the back. Mark ALL the maintenance in when it's done, and what the mileage was when it was done, along with any notes about what you see when you're doing it, such as something you see that will need attention soon, but that you're not doing that day, such as the brake pads are getting thin. Keep track of all your fuel fillups, and you'll more easily spot when the mileage drops (as you have already done).


Change all coolant hoses. The rubber compounds in these age from ozone even when the vehicle isn't being driven. It's much easier to change a hose at home, with the proper tools handy and when you want to, than on the road when you HAVE to.

Change all belts. same as above.  And that's including the timing belt, which in this car is coming up on 30 years old if it's the original. On your car it's very easy to change and inexpensive.  A ticking time bomb if there ever was one....

Pull the thermostat and at least test it with a hot pan of water on the stove.

While you have the thermostat off and AFTER you have the new hoses on, flush the cooling system with a cleaner and install extended life coolant. Use cardboard in front of the radiator to allow the engine to heat up. It's generally about $2.00 morre per gallon, but will last at least twice as long as standard coolant, so you won't have to do it again soon, and will be cheaper in the long run, while still providing the same protection as it's shorted lived cousins.

Change the oil and filter. DON'T use the cheapest filter that you can find. Get something decent, such as Wix or one of the other better filtering brands/models.  Use a minimum of semisynthetic oil in order to give longer life to the engine parts. It's a compromise between full synthetic and standard oil, cost and oil life being between the 2, but by using it, you will decrease the buildup of engine "varnish" in the interior of the engine, due to it's higher vaporization temperature.   

Since you're doing a fair number of miles daily, the mileage will accumulate fairly fast, so the tendency is to space oil changes farther apart.  DON'T. And don't cheap out on subsequent oil changes by extending the oil change interval to much over 4,000 miles, unless you go to a full synthetic oil.  (If you can afford to: watch the sale papers for oil and filters to go on sale at some of the chain auto parts stores, and get a couple of cases of oil and stock up on filters when they're on sale.)

Completely flush all of the old brake fluid, and use antiseize on the bleeder screws when you reinstall them. (Also use it on the spark plugs and wheel studs.)

Drain and replace the transmission fluid and the differential fluid. It actually doesn't cost that much, and the odds are good that it has never been done, and thsi way at least you wil know that the fluid is something decent, is relatively clear of metal contamination, and both have a very good chance of never having to be done again, at least for several to many years.  Screen the warmed up by driving fluids through something like window screening, while they are draining to watch for larger metal or other debris. If you see any pieces of metal, this is a warning to you that there may be internal damage. 

Spark plugs. From many years of experience using them, I have to say that anyone who does NOT use platinum or better spark plugs these days when one is available for their engine is being obstinate, penny foolish, or has a period car that they are keeping block stock for some reason. There is absolutely no comparison as to the life of platinum plugs and standard types. Platinum plugs can and do last SEVERAL times as long, while their electrode  erosion takes place at a much slower rate, (as low as 10%-20% of the rate of standard plugs) so they do not have to be regapped anywhere as often, when used with a high energy ignition, (which your car has). (A standard plug can erode at .001" per 1000 miles, for comparison)

I have personally had one set of single electrode Bosch plugs go 70,000 miles, WITHOUT REGAPPING, on a regularly driven car without haveing the gaps erode past the recommended setting. (I checked them, they did not need cleaning! at 37K and replaced them on general principles at 75K.)


Closely inspect the tires, ride with the maximum tire pressure that you can stand, that is below the maximum on the sidewall, and that doesn't cause unstable handling (it's usually 35psi for passenger car tires) this will significanty increase your fuel mileage, and also help maintain the ground clearance, (which is important if you drive on rough roads at all or park where there is a lot of combustible paper debris or tall grass......). 
Tires also age in response to ozone as wellas being exposed directly to UV. The tire people are now recommending tire replacement at around 6 years, no matter what the mileage.... I don't expect that you would do that, but on a car this old, they may be old enough that you could possibly see cracking on the sidewalls. IF YOU DO, that is a very strong warning to get new tires as soon as possible. 

When you need to: get tires that are the appropriate size and a decent quality. Use the larger size optional tire for the car if you have a choice, but go slow on anything bigger.  Significantly wider than stock tires look cool, and help the car to handle better on dry pavement, for example, but they cut the fuel mileage and actually make it harder to stop on snow and ice. Think of how the car is to be used and decide accordingly.  Cheaper tires also frequently adversely effect fuel mileage, handle worse and wear out faster.


Use an inside sunscreen, (even one of the cheap fold up cardboard ones will work 100% better than nothing)  to protect the interior from UV damage if it isn't already beyond the point of saving.

poisonpinto

Unfortunatly, mine is dented right at the plug, and I'm afriad if I take it off, there's no way to get it back on there. Also the dent is so compounded that it is leaking a bit of oil out of the fold in the metal. It's pretty bad...

77turbopinto

After driving through some spilled gas coming out of turn two at waterford speedbowl, I went sideways into the infield, into a drainage pit and launched over the pit road. When we landed, it was on the oil pan. I did not know it, and finished the race. After close inpection, there was sill pleanty of clearence to the oil pick-up and never "fixed" it.. You might want to take a look in the drain hole before you do anything just to see.

Did you change the "lifters"? In my experience they get gummed up and changing them has made a few of my pintos run much smoother.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

poisonpinto

Ooh, awesome! I've never heard about any of those things. I will give those a try, thanks!

On another note, I went to change my oil yesterday, and my oil pan is crushed like a soda can! I dunno how/when this happened, but now I'm on the lookout for a replacement.

High_Horse

PoisonPinto,
      One of the things that I would replace is the Carberator fuel float. They can be made of brass, in which case it would be ok. But if it is made of a styrofom type of stuff then they can get saturated with fuel and increase your float level. I have even seen brass floats get a little fuel in them due to a microscopic leak. And this would be enhanced by the warming and cooling of the engine(expansion and contraction).
Also, You might want to check the little return springs for your distributor centrifical advance unit. These springs can and do expand over time and keep your distributor timing cam from returning all the way(like during idle). Idle is when you set your timing and if the dist. cam is not returned all the way you will inadvertantly set you timing to a slightly advanced position which in turn will affect your carb setting. Also, replacing your vacuum advance unit on the distributor would not hurt because that little diaphram will get harder over a period of time making it so the dist. will advance at a slower rate or later then needed for maximum designed efficientcy. I will usually do the springs while I change the vacuum advance unit cause the little actuator arm has to be removed from the advance plate. Just shorten the springs with a needle nose plyers and lube under the cam for free movement just shorten the springs a hair shorter then needed to return the cam to full retard position.
                                                                    Good luck,
                                                                  High_Horse
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

poisonpinto

Well, just wanted to update ...

I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, plugs/wires, fuel/air filter and adjusted the belts. I think everything I took out of the engine was original, so damn! Now I wish I wouldn't have waited so long to do all that. I still have a bit of a rough idle, but the car has much improved power and mpg. I'd like to fix this, but have no idea if it's the timing, choke or what.

Next I'm moving on to replacing the shock absorbers and figure out this weird scraping sound that happens when I stop and accelerate away from stop signs. (It isn't the brakes!)


fast34

Hi!!  If you don't know when the timing belt was replaced last, then get it done.  I recommend putting in the seals that are in that area (crank, cam, aux.shaft) ,because if they leak after the belt is replaced , well, you are doing it again.  Do the already mentioned, along with spark plugs and wires, flush and refill the coolant system, check belts and hoses, and for any other oil leaks.   A little maintence now will save alot of aggrivation broke down on the road later.  Also, just use the standard Autolite plugs as Platinum and the such are not all they are cracked up to be.

poisonpinto

Haha, yeah. Four speed + Plus reverse = Five speed ;)

Thanks for the tips.

DragonWagon

Yeah, sounds like you are thinking the right direction. If you haven't changed the air filter in 2 years, it's probably time. Back in the day K&N made a filter for the 2.3. I assume they still do. Might be worth looking into. While you have the air cleaner off, take a peek inside the carb, if it seems to have excessive varnishy build-up in the throttle body area, give it a couple blasts of carb & choke cleaner per directions. Replace the fuel filter. Throw on a new distributer cap or at least clean the contact areas on yours. Set the timing. Check your tire pressures. Hopefully those things will get your mileage back up.

If it's your daily driver I wouldn't go too nuts on the modifications, just basic maintenance as needed and drive/enjoy it!
1976 mpg Wagon. The start of it all.
1977 Cruising Wagon, to be turboed.
1979 glass hatchback. No motor atm.
1980 wagon parts car.

turbopinto72

Quote from: Pintony on March 21, 2006, 09:09:55 PM
Hello poisonpinto,

:welcome:


Your Pinto has a 5 speed? Interesting.....

You are on the right track with the mods you have planned.

Maybe a little lighter foot might help bring back the milage you have lost.
From Pintony

I like 5 speed Pintos.................. :police:
Brad F
1972, 2.5 Turbo Pinto
1972, Pangra
1973, Pangra
1971, 289 Pinto

Pintony

Hello poisonpinto,

:welcome:


Your Pinto has a 5 speed? Interesting.....

You are on the right track with the mods you have planned.

Maybe a little lighter foot might help bring back the milage you have lost.
From Pintony

poisonpinto

Hey there,

I have had a 1978 Runabout with all stock, all standard everything that I found (somehow!) for $1000 about 2 years ago. It's the basic 5-speed, 4 cyl. engine It has been the best car I've ever owned, and the only thing I've ever had to fix on it was putting a new clutch in. I would have never believed that this car could be so reliable, and it still only has 65,000 miles on it!

Anyhow, I am writing to ask if anyone has any basic info for me on things that I should be changing/replacing as the car gets older and is a daily driver -- I commute to/from work (about 45 min. round trip) -- I do the basics, like spark plugs, oil changes, etc. but I'm starting to lose MPG, (only 21 mpg last week!) and I was wondering about replacing the air filter and fuel filter, etc.

Can anyone give me some tips/resources on how to do simple tasks like this? I'm also not sure whether I should get the standard air/fuel filters or if I should invest in some higher quality equipment. I haven't ever owned a car that I cared about, so I don't have much experience, but I'm studying Industrial Design, so doing the work and all that isn't a problem, I just don't know where to begin. Not a gearhead, all my cars before this one have been Honda/Toyotas from the 90s! I've never even owned a car that didn't have a fuel injector. So if anyone can give me some tips on good performance/Pinto specific things I should look into, let me know!

Thanks in advance for any help.